dexter72

Do the flashers work? For turn signals try swapping the flasher and turn signal relays and see what happens. Check the fuses. If you had an S30 i would say you may have to deal with the turn signal gremlins. I will have them one moment and not the next. If i turn my flashers on first, then off. I will then have turn signals all day. I have new flasher and turn signal relays.

Yes either run a new wire with a ford starter relay or run a new wire with a fuse in it. Either way should get you the starter signal that you need.

Do the correct wires going into the switch, have voltage? Does the voltage change to the other wires as you change positions with the key, ( accesory, start,and run?.

Ok, so by checking a haynes or other manual, Which wire is supposed to have power when you turn the key to start?. Make sure your checking the start signal wire, make sure the car didn't have an aftermarket alarm installed in that wiring also. If that wire has low or no power, the most likely cause is the electrical part of the ignition switch is bad. You still need to check that the switch has 12 volts going into it though. If you have 12 volts going to the switch then i say your switch is bad.

Have you checked for voltage at the electrical part of the ignition switch, while cranking?. Do not use a test light, It may light up but you have no idea what the voltage is. Use a volt meter so you know exactly what voltage is coming out of the switch. Someone else also asked you to do that. A last resort to do: Just remember if you do this, the car will start in gear if it has a manual trans. Run a new wire ( 10 or 12 gauge ) with a fuse in it, from the ignition switch directly to the small terminal at the starter.

You may need to upgrade your setup in a few more areas, then just the turbo. Here are some suggestions. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator T3/T4 turbo, since yours is sloppy. Possibly Holset turbo. Boost controller 440 injectors Stand alone fuel management External wastegate

SInce you said you were new to Z's, I would figure out what kind of setup you want for the engine. Turbo, Carbs, Stock Efi, or Aftermarket Efi. You have a lot of research to do so take your time. Read a lot and save a lot of links on your computer. Welcome to the Site.

You can use either MS2 or MS3 to run your car. Tell DIY how you want the unit to provide spark. You can buy a relay board or make your own. You need a GM Open eliment intake air temp sensor, DIY wiring harness, Wideband 02 sensor setup, and a laptop that will run megatune.

You should check the megasquirt forum and go from there. You also need to figure out how you want to run your setup. With or without the distributor, Larger turbo, Larger injectors, engine mods and so on. MSEFI.com has a lot of info. Should help you decide which way you want to go.

What size small block?. Dont use it if its a 305. If its a 350 use that and do some research to find out what compression ratio works well with those heads and a turbo. You may want to change cams also so check

Have you looked into adding a turbo to your engine and going with a Megasquirt standalone unit?. You can rebuild the L28 if you choose but you don't need a stroker crank. Then work on getting your turbo goodies, L28 with a T3/T4 turbo running 15 psi of boost, is quick.

I like to use your ve files to check them against my own, so keep posting your tweaks. I can't use your timing files since I have a flat top turbo engine but my ve tables above 4200 rpm, are really close to yours. About 4-5 degrees less timing in my bins above 3500, I have more fuel in the lower rpm bins. Will work on lower my ve when it cools off here in Phoenix.

Its never a waste of time to ask for help, It is a waste of time when you never ask for help. Happy Motoring.

In my opinion about the Subayota, compare it to cars along its own heritage lines. Adds show it evolving from the Toyota sports car before the 2000gt and the corolla. I think it would have been pretty cool to use those models. Just saying.

Have you check the wiring voltages with a meter?. Asking because some people just use a test light.

I enjoyed the article but am left wondering, why compare an early Nissan sports car with a New Subayota?. Wouldn't Toyotas early 2000gt sports car or a 78-79 Supra have been a better subject to stay truer to its Toyota roots. Supras and Z's also were in the same class with each other through all thier re-designs. I'm not hating on Toyota or Nissan, I have been a dealership tech for both Toyota and Nissan and have owned a Supra and own a Z.

Check the electrical part of the ignition switch, Clean the connection and check the switch wires, for proper voltage in on and start mode.

Use a straight edge on the block to see if it is warped or has gouge in it. I would extensively at the block.

Maps are in the Faqs forum, under engine components, Megasquirt. Just look for one that is closest to your setup, From what you have written down yours is close to quite a few others.

What are your afr's ?. I am thinking along the lines that the stock injectors are close to there max. Also I have read that trying to run more than 12psi of boost from a stock T-3 is not a good idea, Just pumping more heat.

Start first by checking for leaks where the master cylinder bolts to the brake booster. Remove the rear wheels and check the rear wheel cylinders, for any fluid behind the rubber boots. Replace anything thats leaking, replace the rear wheel cylinders in pairs if one is leaking. Make sure you have good fluid flow from the part your bleeding also, if not that could be why the car is hard to stop.

Is the engine turning over or does it just click?.

That probably depends on what external accesories your going to use, Just get the belts or belt for the accesories you are using, for that year turbo engine.

Ditto, Upgrading the turbo swapped L28 would bring about a lot more power. No reason that you can't have an 11 second car with a few mods, Remember the old saying there is no substitute for cubic inches. Well the substitute is called a Turbo. Like what was said earlier, Upgrading to what you have will be cheaper then swapping either engine, plus trans, plus drive shaft.

Torque the wheels down also if you don't normally do that.