dexter72

Headgasket could have split/blown at the coolant jacket, between engine and the head. Unfortunately you have to remove the head to find out whats going on.

You should read the Megamanual 15 times, then go back and read it again 5 times. It is your bible and your friend. You also have to decide quite a few things. Are you putting the unit together yourself or are you buying an assembled unit??.. you should get a stim unit to check your progress as you go along, if your soldering it up yourself. You have to decide how you want the unit to provide spark. You have to decide what component you want to use, like the bip, then what system are you going to use. Turbo dist, or Coil on plug or Wasted spark. Are you doing fuel only or ignition and fuel??. You can use high impedence injectors or low impedence injectors with megasquirt, but you have to decide which ones to use and set the unit settings for either ones. To me its easier to set the unit up for high impedence injectors, less you have to do if you ever go turbo and have to go with higher cc injectors. Buy some quick disconnect connectors for your injectors and temp sensor. The factory ones are most likely broken or corroded. To use zx injectors you need dropping resisters for the injectors. Megasquirt only uses electrical signals, Egr or fuel rail are not affected. You don't need the Afm anymore. Most of this info is in the Megamanual or DIY

Photo shop one on a z and decide from there, Maybe someone here can help you out with that, if you aren't good with photo shop.

To me if you want to track a car you would need some type of device in it. Anything from a used cell phone, to a do it yourself tracker you hide in the car. I know there are cell phone apps that can track that phone anywhere. A friend will text his wife asking why she is in the house or outside in the yard. I work as a tech at a car dealership and we have to install a tracker in some of our used cars, for customers who don't have good credit. I like the quick disconnect steering wheel also. For me, some type of tracker still has to be the best way to find a missing car quickly. Noticed that our older cars are stripped out or burned out.

Have you adjusted your fuel and timing tables yet??.. Any results???...

Thanks Xnke and Tony D, Tony i was just reading the other thread. Now i have to figure out costs of the headwork and cam swap.

Stop playing with it and do an SR20 swap. VG-T swap it. Or keep it G.M. and 3.8l supercharged. Then spend 10grand on it, tinting the windows. Lol Forgot how much glass they had. Im still smiling remembering high school times with my buddies Vette, Im still friends with him, 32 years now. We talked for a couple of hours last week, just about that damn car. And yeah im old now. Thanks for posting the pics of your Sleeper.

A how to thread about making JZ mounts n brackets for an S30, would be awesome. Can't Wait

So does the engine run any better when you move the afm lever??.. Does the engine run better / no change, or worse when you move the afm plug??.. Is the afm harness plug green and corroded??.. Is the afm end green and corroded???.

Looking good, Will be doing a 2jge-nat swap in November hopefully. Gathering a ton of info in the meantime. Going to try running the 2jge off of my megasquirt 2 that's already in my z. I have been looking at engine mount alternatives, can you post pics of your mounts?? Did you make them or modify some mounts out of another kit???..

Brings back some fun memories. A buddy that i went to high school with would always tell the girls that he had a Vette, When they asked what kind of car he had. He would show them the GM key and they would fight over who would go out with him during the school day. Which led to many, in school make-out sessions and so on. Lol Man were they mad when he would show him that CheVette, when they would ask him to drive them home from school. Worked for about 3 months. Worked even longer at the town mall, during the weekends.

Can you post the AFR part from your dyno session and your MSQ.

Any updates for us???....

Why not just get a junkyard engine put in your car, until you can offset some of the swap costs, by replacing it yourself. An earlier post asked you what happened to the engine in your car???.

If your car is still on the side of the road i would bring a can of gas and your basic tools to do some checking. Make sure you have someone with you to help you. See if it will start and idle, If not add the fuel. See if it starts after that. If not, remove the fuel hose at the rail, coming from the fuel filter. Crank the engine over checking for fuel. Check for spark from the coil to the distributor cap, then plug the wire back in and check for spark at the end of the spark plug wires. No spark, you have an ignition issue.

The efi harness in your car is 30+ years old, I don't think the efi harness is shielded. Newer cars yes, but not our cars. Yes a few people have wired/spliced Megasquirt into a stock harness, i think i saw a write up on it in the site. For a stock turbo engine, i see no reason why you would not buy the harness they sell, It's even labeled for you so you really can't mess up the install. You can always make your own harness if you feel the need to. I have read of some people having noise issues but i think a lot of that is from how the sensors are wired and how the ignition components were installed. Possible noise from inside the Megasquirt box. I would install a grounding block for all of your sensor grounds, Yes MS2 comes with the processor.

Ok, i think you should get the engine to run correctly before installing Megasquirt. Search for posts about turbo engines running rich. That should get you started. If your harness is total junk, you may need to switch to MS right from the start. Buy a pre-assembled Megasquirt 2 unit, It can handle what you want to do, no problem. Tell them how you want it to provide spark, Buy the 8ft harness, buy or make a relay board yourself. Buy some quick disconnects for your engine sensors and fuel injectors, Autozone can get them or get them from Junkyard cars, 90's and newer cars made by G.M. and Volvo have them. Buy a wideband setup, gauge, sensor, and controller. There are still other pieces you need, The Megasquirt 8ft harness is used instead of the stock harness. You remove the stock harness, you have more reading and understanding to get through. Find, save, and read the Megamanual online, It tells you all about Megasquirt. Read it atleast 10 times so you understand what settings you need to do and what parts you need. IT IS YOUR BIBLE. Im not saying that you haven't done so, but you have to do a lot of research and reading, saving info.

The Nissan sealant is good, I have never had engine parts leak oil after using it. You don't have to let it sit and cure, just put it back together add oil and go. I had to re-seal the rear timing cover on my 97 Maxima, O-rings started leaking at 60K miles. I did the job 10 years ago and it still has not leaked from using that sealant. I have 255K miles on my Maxima now and drive it every day to work. ) The older Toyota sealant starts to set up in 5 minutes, so you have to be ready to put the parts together as soon as you start squeezing it out. Someone said Dodge has some similar quick curing sealant.

I used Nissan silicone sealant on my oil pan and no gasket, with no problem when I was swapping my turbo parts, onto my n/a engine. People say not to do this but to me the problem comes from people using too much or the wrong type of sealant. The other issue is making sure the oil pan mounting surface is flat. Lay the pan face down on a flat smooth surface and tap the lip around of the pan with a a hammer. Don't move the pan, just tap around the entire pan keeping it still. Turn the pan over and tap the mounting holes with a punch to flatten it back out also. I was a Toyota dealership technician for 5 years, then became a Nissan dealership Technician in 1997. I still am a Nissan dealership Tech. If you were to ask for an oil pan gasket for one of there engines you would get a tube of silicone sealant. Nissan and Toyota recommend the use of there brand sealant to seal up timing covers, oil pans, some transmission pans, camshaft tower caps and so on. The engines are put together this was from the factory. I will do this again when I rebuild another L-28 with no concerns.

Im not familiar with what compression ratio that combo will be, You will have to find the info for that. There are engine combo calculators that have been posted on Hybrids before, so search for them. Just put your combo in and it tells you the ratio. If you found posts about n/a turbo engines, or flat top piston turbo engines, those are the high compression turbo engines. If not, do a search for those. You will need a Stand Alone engine management system for your setup.

I missed the emblem!!!... What kind of window moulding is that???..

I have been thinking about doing the same thing the last few weeks. Would be interested in seeing pics of it and pics of it on the engine first. Do you need a core, like the recent group by intake manifolds??.. Costs also.

Merry Christmas, Look in turbo section, im sure the Holset turbo questions have been answered.

Possible large vacuum leak, Try spraying around the intake with carb, starting fluid, or brake cleaner spray.

What is the CC rating of those 19lb injectors??...They may be to big for the setup your running, Also are they high or low impedence injectors??....