dexter72

I would start checking alll the connections under the hood first. Battery and at the alternator. Tighten and clean them. Then the under hood harness.

One of my best friends dads used to gauge the type of auto work he was about to do, by saying how many beers it would take to finish it. Needless to say his 10 or 14 beer jobs turned into Pony Kegs. He wore his belly keg proudly. Enjoy.

What type of wastegate do you have??.. Do you have one???.. Is it working correctly??..

I know i viewed pics on this site of a guy who made a plenum out of a Z valve cover. Maybe finding those pics may help in your quest. If you can get all your pieces together of how you want the plenum to look. You can always have a good aluminum welder, weld it all up for you. Maybe find a local out of work welder, send him more business if he does a good job for you. Just some thoughts

Two things come to mind, Possibly an early 280z door panel on a late 280z door. 280z 2+2 door panel or skin. I just looked at my late model 260, which has early 280z style doors and panels. Im going to go with you have 280z 2+2 door panels.

While your checking compression, i would do a valve adjustment.

Have you tried any of the u-pull-it junk yards in your area???...

You don't have to wire in a turbo ecu, if your running stock low boost, you can use the stock N/A Distributor and wiring harness. The distributor internal advance weights need to be locked, so they don't move. Take the dist apart or buy another one from the J-yard and modify that one. You can have the weights welded up, RTV them or JB Weld them, so they dont move. I did that for 3 years and it worked fine, Use the turbo injectors. Stock fuel pump. Also take out the pcv valve from under the N42 manifold and move it forward at the underside of the manifold. There are extra threaded plugs under the manifold, so thats pretty easy to. If ypou forget to do it, the turbo hose connecting the j-pipe to the turbo won't fit. You can also use your N/A AFM, You only need to get a smaller intake airboot bewteen the AFM and the front of the turbo. I did that also. My engine would fly through emissions also setup this way. The early turbo used the front crank pulley and a sensor. The later Turbo 82-83, used a different dist and dist drive shaft. Get yourself por make the turbo oil feed line. Get the turbo drain pipe also.

Use those 83 Turbo injectors. There is no problem with turboing an N/A engine, just get the parts that have been mentioned and keep researching for your project. Im running 15lbs on a turbo-ed 83 N/A engine, Megasquirt and it is a blast. I am going to with more boost as soon as the daily temps drop down out here in Phoenix.

If you pull the rotors back off, you can use a gasket removing disc on a drill and go over each side of the rotors, use a slow full circular motion covering the entire rotor. Do that for about 30 seconds to a minute on each side of the rotors, should take out any minor imperfections from them being turned. Turning imperfections on the rotors surface can cause your issue, also causes brake noises. The brake pads can actually catch on the rough rotors imperfections and snap back and forth in the caliper mounting bracket. Causes brake pedal pulsations. I work in a dealership and we do this to brake rotors all the time.

Did you personally turn the rotors or did you have someplace turn them for you??.. If the rotors weren't set up correctly on the machine, they can be cut incorrectly . Even if an on-car brake lathe was used, the rotors can still be cut incorrectly. You mentioned a low speed steering vibration, When does this occur, Low speed braking, on turns or maybe over bumps????.. Have you made sure there is no free play in the front wheels??? Did you torque the front wheels with a known good torque wrench????..

This has been covered many times, you have to search and read, its all in the archives. I have a 260z and it has an 83 L28 N/A flat top piston engine, which i added turbo parts to. All N/a engine, My setup: T3/t4 turbo, 440 injectors, Megasquirt 2, 15lbs boost. external wastegate. No metal headgasket is needed. In my opinion stock rods can safely handle up 350hp.

You should not install the wideband sensor until you get the engine to idle well. An overly rich condition can ruin the sensor. So get the engine to idle well first. Check out your required fuel setting, is it close to a couple of maps that match your set up??. If not you can increase or decrease that setting while the engine is running. See how it runs when you change the setting.

As Tony D stated, What is the fuel pressure???. You can check for a bad fuel pressure regulator by pulling the vacuum hose to it and if fuel is in that hose, or fuel comes out of the regulator vacuum fitting, the regulator is bad.

Talk to the shop and ask them did the compression number in that low cylinder go up, when they did a test after squirting some oil in that cylinder. Again that will tell you where the problem is. You can then decide how you want to go about fixing it. If you don't have any money to fix it now, as was suggested. Read up and learn how to fix it and disgnose the problem yourself, It will cost you less in the long run.

Did they do a dry and then a wet compression test for that cylinder???. Not reading any info about the shop doing that. It is part of the diagnosis fee you were charged if the shop did things correctly. The two tests will then inform them and you, if its the upper end ( head or valves ), or the lower engine ( piston rings, piston ) causing the low compression.

Nice trade, Is the angle of the pic funny or does the left rear wheel openning look off a bit??. You have had that 73 for a quite a few years if my memory serves me right. Remember reading your messages about the updates to it and how fast it was going. Video links don't work now. (

Angry_dave24, You can rebuild her, Better, Faster, Stronger. The SIX MILLION DOLLAR Z.

Check for 70's 810's, 80's maximas and 80's zx's the tps's should be the same. They should all be the on off type. The later model nissans have a different type of switch.

If its an emergency, just go to the junk yards in your town and grab a couple. Should be some Z's in the yards in Texas.

While the plugs are out clean them up with some carb or brake cleaner, possibly its flooding out. If compression shows good, Buy a can of starting fluid and clamp off the fuel line going to the rail. Spray some starting fluid in the intake air boot and see if the engine starts. Less chance to flood out using starting fluid. If it runs off the starting fluid, release the clamped off fuel line and see if it will run off the fuel.

Hold off on using the supra injectors, find a cheap stock replacement set for now. And just gather all the parts you will need for your swap.

Looks like you can have it welded back together, then weld in steel plate to reinforce the back and underside of it. Still keep the diff cover.

Looks like the stock turbo dist to me. You need to either make your own relay board or buy one That is the Ms2 firmware version, you need to know that code. \ The wiring doesnt look good at the ms unit, Yes solder the wiring. The map sharing thread is on this site, you just pick a map that is close to your setup and copy it. you start tuning from that map. Msefi.com and the megamanual shows how to wire the unit up and how to set intial settings.

Make sure your using the correct wiring diagram as was suggested before, You said you had an 81 zxt engine and harness going into an 81 ZX. Make sure you installed the dropping resistors. Look at another wiring diagram, go over it again and again and again. I added the engine wiring harness and efi from an 82zx into my 260z. Wired everything up and no spark. Went over the wiring diagram 7 or 8 times. Took me two weeks to figure out that i didn't add a ground wire. I figured that out helping someone else out. Go over the wiring diagram again, make sure your using the correct year diagram. The write up that you followed was for an 82-83 ZXT engine and Harness into an 81 ZX. The wiring diagram is not the same as the 81.