dexter72

Did you check on Maximas in the junk yards around town???... Might have the same piece on them. Or another member may have a mastercylinder, that they can pull that part off for you.

You do know that's no Corvair there Tony.

The Maps are in the Faq section, click on components and then Megasquirt. There should be atleast one N/A fuel only map, to get you started.

Ok, Well i'm not sure if your supposed to have power to the ecu from the battery like that, might be to much voltage. You don't need an intercooler if your not running ig boost numbers. So maybe eliminate that pcv piping. Did you post in another thread about your put together wiring harness, and me saying your missing relays ??.

Ok good, What may help is after you swap the turbo parts back on your engine, post some pics of the intake setup so we can see what you have going on, with the hose routing. Feel free to PM Me also. Like my earlier post said, i did the swap the same exact way you are and didn't have any problems with it running. I even found an intake hose that connects from the n/a air flow meter to the front of the stock turbo. It puts the air flow meter position almost exactly where it was when it was n/a. My engine flew through emissions for 3 years, then i registered the car as a collector car and no more emissions for me in AZ. Emissions guys always said, i didn't know they turboed these cars in 1974. Lol

From what a friend tells me, gun laws are pretty strict in Maryland.

Let us know if you forgot to install that pcv valve in the manifold, You didn't say if you did or you didn't. Yes a large vacuum leak will cause a very high idle, sometimes over 2500 rpm. You lock the mechanical advance up in the dist so your timing doesn't advance and you blow the headgasket, due to Detonation.

That was a lot of work to swap over and then swap back. I did your swap exactly but to my 260Z. Did you lock up the mechanical advance in the stock distributor?. If not, you need to do that. Either rtv it, jb-weld it or have it welded. Did you move the pcv valve location foreward, under the intake manifold??... If you didn't its almost impossible to get the pcv hose on the valve, so you may have a huge vacuum leak at the valve. You then just install a threaded plug in the pcv valves original location. Make sure you didn;t catch one of the fuel line brackets, inbetween the intake manifold and the cylinder head. Again a huge vacuum leak.

I removed the 4 original studs and installed longer ones when i added my spacer. You may be able to have a regular spacer cut in half, that might be just enough to get away with not needing longer studs. Maybe you can stack a few metal gaskets onto the manifold.

A lot of older homes in Laurel but some should have garages or car ports. Look for newer developments in Laurel. 20 year old homes and newer should work. Look around in Severn which is right next to Fort Meade, Jessup, Guilford, Savage area also.

Have you thought of Buying an L28 engine and turboing that instead??.. You can buy the Turbo exhaust manifold and turbo parts to fit that engine. Megasquirt it and your Rolling.

Hey, im an old school Maryland native living in Phoenix now but i can point you in the right direction. Laurel, Savage, Jessup or any new housing along Rt 175, Rt 198, or Rt 1, Which travels right though all the cities i just mentioned. Columbia and the south Ellicott city Zipcode near Rt 1. You have to go through a 1 time state safety inspection of your cars. Depending on the years of the cars you shouldn't have to do any emissions testing of the cars. They should be up into the 1990's of cars that don't have to be emissions tested by now. ) How they are modified did not matter when i was doing state inspections. They just had to pass, or you have to repair the defects by a certain time. As long as nothing is falling off of them, you should be fine. Seatbelts need to work and be installed, no rust holes in the floors, or trunk areas, no rusted through frame rails. Good tires, brakes, Brake rotors and drums need to be within limits. exhaust hangers need to be good, Has to have exhaust pipes and they need to extend past the body. Need the Horn to work. Lights need to work. Turn signals wipers and blades. The stations usually get you for headlights being out of alignment. After you get the car through inspection you get an Inspection certificate which you take to the DMV to register your cars. .

As has been suggested, check for a vacuum leak at the intake manifold and cylinder head. Make sure you didn't catch anything like a line or bracket, in between the intake manifold and cylinder head as well. I have seen that before.

Ok, so was this unit made to provide spark from the BIP ?. Or do you need a another way to provide ignition for the distributor??...

How is your system wired up, Did you go COP or are you using a Distributor ??.. How is your Megasquirt made to control spark??...

Look up Seafoam or any good Intake deposit cleaner, that can be sucked into the intake manifold, through an engine vacuum hose. I used to work with some old school mechanics and they would pour water, in small amounts into the carburetor while revving up the engine, to boil out any intake deposits. I would never suggest walnut blasting, glass, sand or anything close to that, on an assembled engine. You will ruin it..

You can use your stock wiring harness and dist for your turbo install. Just take it apart and fill in the centrifical advance slots halfway, have them welded, jb-weld them, or rtv'd. You can do that if the engine your using has dished pistons. For the later 82 83 flat top piston engine lock the centrifical advance up so it doesn't move at all. Fill in the slots the same way, or lock the weights. I did this on my n/a turbo install and it worked very well for 3 years. When i had the money to upgrade my setup i bought megasquirt and a larger turbo. I have a turbo oil feed line with the engine block fitting and the turbo oil feed fitting. I also have the T3 turbo oil drain pipe.

I would try looking for an earlier booster, some members may have one on hand for a decent price. If you can't locate one, make a template from the zx booster mounting holes and place it on your 240 firewall and drill away.

Avernier, I have been reading threads from Supra forums for a few years now, You are correct. To me unless your tune is horrible running 500 hp with an Na-Turbo'd 2jz is very doable. My only issues have been finding the manifolds that will work with the engine. Modifying the na intake manifold is an option also.I will have to go over the saved threads i have from those forums again. I thought i read you can make the 2JTurbo manifold work on an na engine. Does anyone really need 600hp or more, on a street driven car??? Can that power be put to the ground???. I mean to me you would have a 10 or 11 second 1/4 mile street car. Win Win

Good job on getting it running. Now fix up your mutt harness, make sure it has good tight colder spots and connections.

You should be able to find out the info by just doing an internet search or look up the supra forums and have at it.

Ok so you have spark while cranking good. You may not need the relays if you have spark while cranking, getting spark is the hardest part of using the zx harness in an earlier z. Does your fuel pump run when your cranking the engine over??? You can run a fuse linked wire the fuel pump, to run with the key on and while cranking. Do you have good fuel pressure from the hose, coming from the fuel filter???...

My first question is do you have fuel pressure before the fuel rail??.. Do you have spark when cranking the engine over?. Next if your using the stock 83 wiring harness you need atleast 1 relay for the efi system to work. Maybe 2. I used a similar setup to what you have and i needed 2 relays one for the efi system to work. One relay is blue and the other is green. I used the entire efi harness from ecu to injectors, i spliced it to my 260z wiring harness at the passenger side before the harness goes through the firewall. I ran a separate start wire with a fuseable link to my starter, from the ignition switch. Ran separate wires from the fuel pump relay to the rear fuel pump. You should hear an audible click when you turn the key on before turning the key to crank. You need to go over the wiring diagram again and again, You need to run a separate ignition signal wire for one of the efi relays your missing also. My memory is a little foggy about which relay to run that wire to. I'm really leaning towards your missing relays as your problem.

They are good vehicles as long as they were taken care of. 250K?? If it hasn't been done since 150K. Change timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump, front crank seal and camshaft seals all at the same time. Replace the coolant hoses also. No 4x4 or hub issues, just check the unit for seal leaks. Exhaust manifolds crack and start leaking sometimes. If so replace the cylinder head exhaust manifold studs, they snap off. I have been a nissan Dealership mechanic since 1998.

I have done this with my 74 260z. 83 280zx brake booster and master cylinder. I just turned the booster upside down and bolted it in. Bolted the zx master cylinder in. Adjusted the booster pushrod to the brake master cylinder. Adjusted the brake pedal rod to the booster. Done. I didn't change the orientation of the lines. I did make up a new brake booster vacuum hose.