dexter72

If the clip your referring to, attaches to the end of the cable at the e-brake shoe lever. You may have to go to a dealer and order it. If i remember correctly that clip holds a small roller pin in place so may need to order that pin also.

Does the engine run rough just idling?. Or when revving?. Maybe an Ignition wire issue, can you spray the wires with water and check for arching?. If the engine does not miss when revving it, I would lean more towards the Driveshaft. Is the exhaust or something hitting or touching the underside of the car?.

You need to do a search for all the questions you are asking. You can get 250hp out of your engine WITHOUT DOING TWINS, Twin turbo chargers on an L Engine is not going to be cheap. Get your reading glasses ready.

You most likely will be removing the cylinder head. As was discussed, you may have corrosion in the cylinders from rust or coolant.

Do a search for turbo swap. All the parts that are needed will be in those posts and there are lots of them. So you have a lot of reading to do.

With all that Oozing Testosterone, puddling up in the back of it. I would never have any girl near that car, A girl would be like: Damn, I got pregnant before I even Dropped Da Panties.

Just copy a VE and Spark map that is close to your setup and get it running. For the Spark map, take 5 degrees out of it Above 2500rpm, and start things off from there. If you don't have a wideband your going to have to tune it while driving. Charge your laptop battery, fill it up with fuel, and bring someone with you to change the VE bins and don't mash the gas pedal. Start off with easy acceleration runs. Save all the changes before your laptop battery goes too low. You will be doing this all weekend. ) Enjoy

Hey just sent you a PM. There are welding jobs on Phoenix Craigslist.

What ECU are you using?.

You going to Post Pics of it?.

Add a turbo.

You should be able to build your own engine with headwork, turbo, and larger cam, For less then 10k.

Does it have a Stim with it?. If so that will let you know if it works. Maybe someone you know has a stim so you can check the unit out. Otherwise you may have to take the cover off of it, smell the board and look at it for any burnt areas.

The full Megasquirt setup, wideband, and gauge alone is worth $600 bucks. That leaves $400 for the engine and the rest of the components. You can always sell the extras to put some extra cash in your pockets, making that deal worth even more money. That turbo can be rebuilt by someone you trust for a 6 pack and the cost of the rebuild kit. $75 bucks.

Changing the required fuel setting is to see if you can get a higher AFR. You then adjust your VE Bins lower and see what your AFR's are. Its quick and takes about a minute to do, If it doesn't work just set it back to where you had it. Thats why I suggested making adjustments of 0.5 at a time. You would still need to change your VE MAP 1, which you needed to do also. Did you make the changes to your VE MAP 1 yet?. Engine should not be idling good with numbers like what you have, in your first 4 Bins. 58.0 58.0 That is kind of high of a fuel value in my opinion, unless your required fuel is low. 3.0 3.0 These numbers are low. If anything put 40.0 in all those bins and adjust required fuel to 9.0 and see how that does. If you didn't change your VE map yet the engine will not rev correctly. If you look at most of the posted VE Tables you will see what I am talking about. Are you sure those injectors are 370's ?.

You can drop the required fuel down more since your running 370 injectors and others are running 440's or higher. Just noticed that now that im awake. lol Look for someone who is running a similar injector size and see what there required fuel is. Try dropping it 0.5 at a time and that may help lean you out. You will be changing your VE Table 1 again. After dropping the required fuel, try the 35-40 range in the first two idle bins. One row up and one row over.

By looking at your VE tables your first set of idle bins looks ok in table 3,( 36.0 37.0 38.0) I think your problem is your second row of bins in table 3. You increased your fuel by almost double. The second row of bins should be closer to your first set of bins in all your VE Tables at Idle. Try adjusting all the your VE Table bins to that 30. range, in the first two rows at idle. Thats what will give the engine a better idle and less fuel. Remember that the second row of bins have an affect on the first set of bins. Look at some of the maps in the map sharing Faq's section, you will see what I am referring to by looking at other peoples VE Tables. Which VE table is megasquirt using to run your engine?. Table 1 makes no sense to me, at idle you have 3.0 4.0 and 5.0 for fuel. Then it jumps to 57.0 58.0 at higher RPM, then it goes down to 2.0 3.0 7.0. Table 2 starts out in the 70.0's and 80.0's, Thats a ton of fuel at idle. Adjust those and see what your engine does. Also you shouldn't install the wideband if you can't get the engine to run leaner. A overly rich running engine will kill wideband sensors. (

I think it would be cheaper and easier to just upgrade your engine with turbo components. You can add a Standalone system, exhaust, upgraded LSD and your Golden. )

Its not a 2+2. Not sure, will have to check if all years are the same. Its factory tinted roof glass.

I have a friends who has an 83ZX, He is looking for the passenger T Top glass and T Top shades. The shades can be either Red or Black. Let me know how much you want to sell them for. Thanks

Look in the Faq section under components. Find the MS install sticky. In that post it should show what each wire does, for the turbo dist.

The Balancer can spin so that may not be the most accurate way. Remove the valve cover and check the cam timing. Remove the number 1 spark plug and place a long plastic wire tie in the cylinder so it touches the piston. Rotate the engine until that pistons reached TDC which the wire tie will not move up any further. Check to see where the mark is on the balancer and timing tab. If the balancer mark lines up with the timing tab its set correctly. If not, it may have spun slightly or the engine is set up incorrectly.

Which Airflow meter are you going to use?. Your going to have to move the pcv valve location forward in that manifold, or it will interfer with the j-pipe connection at the turbo. You may need the turbo throttle body, check the fit for sure though.

Hey Evil, I lived in Maryland ( Columbia, Ellicott City, Baltimore County ) areas for 30 years. In between Baltimore City and Washington D.C. Are some pretty good choices. Columbias Schools are some of the best in the area. So check out Ellicott city and Columbia. Columbia was the First Master Built, Multi-cultural Community built by ROUSE. Plus you won't have to have your Z's go through Emissions. They will have to pass a physical inspection but after they are registered, thats it. No every year car tax like Virginia either. Capital raceway and 75-80 ( if 75-80 is still open. They are 45 minutes away. Buds Creek is a bit farther.

I don't see why not. I added a turbo to my n/a 2.8 with stock n/a electronics, and turbo injectors, It would breeze through AZ emissions each year, i took in for testing. When I added even larger injectors and Megasquirt, I couldn't get my Hydrocarbon readings low enough to pass on a shop emissions machine. So i did this instead. I got collector car insurance on my Z. Have your insurance company type a letter stating that the car has collector car insurance on it. Go to DMV with that letter and you won't have to go through emissions here again. I did that 3 years ago. I don't have to go through emissions here in AZ again.