dexter72

Have you used the timing light to check the timing and then checked it with megasquirt yet?. Or is that the step your trying now?. The balancer may have spun. Check that first. Are your plugs fuel fouled?.

Ask your other questions

You can still be part of the Boost crowd if you throw a turbo on it. )

I think you need to start your testing all over again. Check battery voltage without using jumper cables or a jump box connected to the battery. Battery voltage should be 12volts. If you don't have this have the battery charged. Get the car started and check the charging voltage at the battery. Should be more than 13 volts with the engine running. If not, figure out why the alternaor is not charging. You don't check for a system draw the way your checking it, I would start from scratch. I think your confusing yourself.

With a working alternator your battery voltage should be from 13.0 volts up to 14.9 volts. From your readings I will say the alternator is not charging the battery. Your battery voltage should be 12 volts. Get the battery charged up first. A lot of shops have a newer type of charger that will charge the jell type AGM, Optima Batteries. I would also check your system for a draw. I would disconnect that new head unit you installed. Seems like the problems started with that install.

You should be fine with on the road tuning, just don't let your engine run to lean under load, at higher rpms. Thats when they ping and headgaskets let go.

You lock the centrifical advance weights in place inside the distributor, so they can't move ( advance ). By either having them welded in place or use JB Weld, RTV sealant to do it. So you have to take the distributor apart. I locked mine out with silicone sealant, I let it sit for 2 days before putting the distributor back together. I did this before adding megasquirt to my car and a turbo distributor. You want to connect the vacuum advance if you do a lot of city driving. There are some posts about the VR Dist which is what an N/a dist signal is. Do a search and those posts will show up. I think some megasquirt users got there engine to run with the N/A Dist.

I think your looking for Cadmium plating.

I eliminated the interlock on mine. I did this because at the time i was changing everything over with zx parts. I installed the FI and FI wiring harness from the zx into my 260z.

I don't remember that story but I have no doubt that you did it. I have a zx radiator in my z and it works great, since it was installed. I always thought that if a z had vent windows, it would have great airflow inside of it.

I have no worries about the engine overheating, Its me sweating to death thats the issue. I see your point about summer tuning but with no a/c, I don't drive the car that often july through august. I usually do early morning drives in the summer. I may have the turbo back in two weeks, so I have some time before the no drive months. Or right after a monsoon blows through and drops the temps 15 degrees. lol Maybe I can get one of those old school tube shaped coolers, that hung on the windows of cars in the 50's or VW Bugs i see out here.

Sounds great, I can't wait to install it, as soon as I get it back from the guy who's rebuilding it. Hope i get it back and all my install parts before it gets 115 degrees out here. No reason to tune anything in those temps.

I read a post about the car you had a similar style turbo on Tony. I was just thinking that it should more then fit my needs. Street car. N/A flat top turbo engine. Still can be daily driven. 15psi MAX. Im thinking quick spooling.

Read a few posts about how a lot liked the 50trim 60ar exhaust t3/t4. Didn't find much on this 57trim 48ar combo. Wanted to see if anyone else had one and how they liked it. Couldn't pass up the deal, Its a true garrett in and out.

Sorry to hear about your wrist problems. There is no shame in going auto with a stall converter. You work with what you got. KEEP YOUR HEAD UP. After a bad car accident a Doc told me I would not walk normally again, so forget about ever playing semi-pro football again. I couldn't play ball anymore but I walk normally and can run faster then guys 15 years younger then me. Took a couple of years. I am 45 by the way.

I am not running edis but I still think you need to verify ignition timing when the engine is cranking over. Have you tried using starting fluid to get the engine started?.

Try having it cut after the Vband, shortened and then re-welded. SHould work fine.

Try using Cygnus Map in the map sharing thread. Your cam being larger looks like the biggest difference to me, besides your extra cubic inches. Hook up the wideband and after you get the engine to start and run smoothly, make tuning runs with the wideband. Are you using the Z32 Maf?. If so, why use it since MS already has one in it.

Have you tried starting the engine by jumping the starter connections at the starter?. If it cranks over and starts with the key on, The ignition switch may be bad or has a bad connection at the ignition switch. If you have a volt meter you can yest the voltage at the signal wire at the starter. Should be 12 volts.

i sent you a PM.

Not saying that you want to go with this store or there brand. Autozone can get a rebuilt one for $35.00 Bucks. 83 280zx brake mastercylinder. May have to wait a few days for it to be ordered though. I just looked it up online.

PM me I have the injectors, not sure about the pigtails. I think I have a variable TPS also off of a 240sx. Also any Tps from 90 on is variable. I am pretty sure of that.

I sent you a PM.

I have one on an r200 sitting in my yard, Let me see if I can dig it up and take pics of it for you. How much are you offering for one?. Joe

Looks great so far. One question, Where are you getting an oil pan from?.