dexter72

I can't open your file but lets start with a few questions. Is your coil sparking?. Are your injectors clicking?. Are your injectors spraying fuel?. Are the spark plugs wet?. Does megatune show your ignition timing?. Do you have a fuel map and ignition map in your tables?.

What does the code version say on your megasquirt unit?. Is it 2.25 code?. Also your going to have to find out what version you have. So you may have to read more of moby's write up or go to msefi.com to find out what version you have. I think with version 3.0 you don't have to change anything in megatune.

I think that diagram is for ms 1, Also you shouldn't need the HEI module like you thought. I used the same diagram with my install and had to change a couple of things up. I used a volvo ignitor to get mine sparking. The turbo dist should have slots in the bottom of it for adjusting timing. You may have to take the cover off of the megasquirt to see how it was set to fire from whomever it was purchased and put together by.

You can look for mobythevan and click on his screen name to send him a message about what problems your having. He is a moderator for this section.

What I mean by timing bins is at the top of megatune it says settings, tables, tuning. Click on the tables tab and it will then show ve table 1 and ignition table. You have to put numbers in each box for timing. You have to fill out the side columns also which say rpm and kpa. So find someones msq that is similar to your setup and fill in the boxes. The engine runs off of those boxes at certain rpms, that you filled in. You have to get megatune on a laptop so you can get the engine running. On your msa balancer. There should already be a timing mark on that balancer. From where you know your engine is at top dead center and your balancer is at the 0 timing tab mark. You then mark the balancer where 50-70 derees would be. After doing that, you crank the engine over with the fuel disconnected. See what megatune says your timing is, click on tools, then trigger wizard. can anyone else lend a hand with explaining this if I am incorrect.

Did you mark your pulley to show where 50 to 70 degrees are?. Set the dist up so it looks like it is in the middle of the slots where the distributor lockdown bolts go. You can move it, if need be, later. You have to get the timing straight or it will not start. Also have no fuel going to the injectors while trying to get your timing figured out, you will foul the spark plugs. Disconnect the fuel pump relay or pull the fuel pump fuse. Ok, So what did megatune say your timing was when you were cranking the engine over?. Also on your timing map, set the timing bins to 15 degrees across the table. Remember that when you get it running the timing map you set in the tables is what the engine is running off of.

Hey Mafia, If you have spark at the plug wires a timing light will show where the engine timing is when cranking. If your going to rent a light make sure you can have it for an entire day. Just incase something does come up. Hook up the light and have someone crank the engine over while you check the timing. My setup: 74 260z. Stock t-3 Turbo added to a rebuilt 83 n/a engine with flat top pistons. o-ringed fuel rail Mazda rx7 450cc injectors. turbo dist. n42 intake. N/a 5spd. 3'' exhaust with a flowmaster muffler. I am running 2.68 I haven't finished tuning the car because I am installing an intercooler now. I need to mount my boost gauge, then I will get the wideband installed and dial the setup in.

With the light not coming on when adjusting the distributor I had the same issue, It didn't turn on. I remember someone saying that was for MS1. Was told by Matt at DIY that the light won't always turn on but the system is ok. You need a timing light with an adjustable dial on the back of it so you can set the timing exactly. You need to know exactly what your timing is when the engine is cranking over. ( For example 28 degrees ) You then need to set the large number in Megatune to the cranking timing number by using the + and - buttons. ( 28 Degrees ). Mine was off by like .5 but that isn't an issue either. That should do it. Everyone else please correct this if this is incorrect. I did mine this way and it runs great.

Either way you go megasquirt or factory efi you have a lot to do. So take one step at a time. I did the efi swap but I had another z to remove the parts from. For megasquirt you will need. Megasquirt & wiring harness, Relay box or make your own. G.M. intake air temp sensor, efi head, exhaust manifold or header with an 02 sensor port. Electric fuel pump, 75 fuel tank or surge tank. You have a late model 260 so no need for the larger fuel line. Late model 260's were already made with the larger line. 240sx tps sensor. You may look into upgrading to an internally regulated alternator. That swap info should be on here. For a factory efi swap. It easiest with another efi car to pull all the parts off of.

Congrats Man, Feels good Huh?.

On the top of this page is the megasquirt map sharing sticky. There are atleast 3 different fuel only maps in it. So check those out, maybe one will be what your looking for.

When searching sometimes you will be looking for hours. There is a lot of info on here. Search for fuel only posts or ms on n/a engine. If you haven't done so look through the useful posts sticky. A lot of good info in there too. So save the links that you need.

Are you sure it's flooding?. If so maybe try lowering your required fuel. Cygnus seems to have a setup similar to yours, he has ms2 though but look for his posts. I didn't see it but can you post your VE and Ignition tables.

You can e-mail any question to them at DIY. Matt is on this site a lot too. I have had many e-mail conversations with him. He gives great support and always responds back quickly to e-mails.

Also for intakes maybe the 06-07 V6 frontier or pathfinder would fit. Vq40.

I may be mistaken but I see a couple of issues with your spark table. Your KPa scale on the left column only goes to 100. Most spark tables I have seen go to atleast 200. I hit 140 and 160 on my scale so it looks like yours should be increased. Your timing at idle should be lower 35 seems to be a bit much. 17 to 20 should be good for you. Your timing at the higher rpms looks a little high also. Timing should be decreasing after 4000 rpms. 35 seems high to me especially if you don't have a wideband 02 sensor. Also if it stumbles at idle, Your required fuel setting may be too low. As an example if I set my required fuel to what it is supposed to be calculated too ( 10 ). My engine stumbles and almost dies when I try to accelerate it when in gear. Now if I adjust required fuel up to 12 or higher it has plenty of power and no stumbles or dieing. If your engine is running rich at idle try lowering your ve table entries. If it's running rich while in boost don't adjust it until you get the wideband. Or adjust it lower so you can atleast drive the car and not get run over by anyone. The map sharing sticky at the top of the page has a few maps so you can see what I am talking about. Also one of those maps might be close to what your setup is and will make your engine run better.

Remember you need to let people know what your setup is or they can't try to help you. You will have to do a lot of reading and searching through posts to find your answers. Almost all of your questions can be answered here or on msefi.com Also the megamanual section will help. To answer a couple of your questions. At the top of this page you will see posts that say Sticky at the beginning. Click on the one that says megasquirt for newbies. That will get you started with set-up and timing answers. The one that says map sharing have spark and fuel tables in them. You need to find the fuel and map tables that are very close to what you have in your car. The one that is closests to what you have in your car will get your engine started. You have to do your own tuning after you get it running.

Which Megasquirt did you buy?. Megasquirt1 v2.2, Megasquirt1 3.0, and so on. What year z is it going in?. What distributor are you going to use in the engine?. Are you going to use the stock coil?. Aftermarket coil, or The coil driver in your Megasquirt unit to supply spark.

Sorry Drift, from the pic is sure looks like sv My bad.

I see what happened. It says v(sv) Which I can see it being misread as 5v. But it is a switched 12volt power wire. You should have it running soon. Hey man, I had to ask Matt at DIY autotune, Moby, Cygnus, and a couple of others for help with getting mine going. I am sure I will have more questions soon.

I have ms2 v3.0 but I don't see the connection your talking about with a ms v2.2. In moby's writeup you a need a switched 12volt wire going to one end of the resistor. The other end of the resistor is then soldered into the Fidle wire going to terminal G of the hei module. You need a constant 12volt wire going to the b/w wire at the turbo dist. You need a constant 12volt wire going to one end of the resistor going to the Tach wire, the other end of the resistor goes to the g/b wire at the turbo dist. That is all I see, But if you go to msefi.com and find the megamanual link. Click that link and then scroll down until you find schematics and trouble shooting. You will then see the external wiring diagrams for the megasquirt harness, click your 2.2 link. That will hopefully show your wiring diagram for the megasquirt harness. I didn't see that connection anywhere, That may be the problem. Wire #26 Grey wire from the Megasquirt harness should be connected straight to the V-ref terminal of the tps. Wire #21 Dark Blue wire from the harness should be connected to the tps signal terminal. I didn't see any resistors going to the tps. Let us know what you find.

Do you have the two pull-up resistors wired up. One at the hei module G terminal with switched 12volts at the resistor from the Fidle wire. The other going to the G/B wire at the Dist with constant 12volts going to that resistor?.

Make sure you have the power wire or relay for the fuel pump wired to a power source that has power when cranking and whith the key on. If you have it connected to a switched voltage source that doesn't also have power when cranking or on, you won't have any fuel pump function in the run position. Write back with what you find.

The pump is supposed to run when you first turn the key on as a priming for the fuel system. You still need good fuel pressure for the engine to start. Also remember that when your first trying to start the engine you may have to crank it a while.

You said you have spark that appears to be correct. Lets check everything and make sure you have fuel and spark. Is the fuel pump running when you first turn the key on?. Does the pump also run while your cranking the engine?. Did you check fuel flow from the filter to the rail while the engine is cranking over?. Does the coil wire have spark to the cap?. What about spark at the plug wires?.