dexter72

The only main issue that I know of is the timing chain tensioners wear quickly causing noise. If your looking at buying one try to find out if this repair has been performed. Maybe also done at a dealership which they would have used the updated parts. A dealership can check on the cars service history if it was done at a dealer in that same state. Other then that, have engine mounts and lower control arms checked.

From having a friend who had a 70 Olds 442 with a destroked 455 in it, I don't think you could keep tires on a Z. That Olds would smoke the tires off of it from a 50mph roll. Olds was about a 3,800lb car, I think the engine will fit and enjoy the Torque. May have to use stock exhaust manifolds, just guessing on that though.

Can you see a difference from the end of the nuts to the end of the threads on the compression rods, by comparing both sides?. Nut might not be tightened up all the way. Maybe extra parts on that compression rod.

Possible problems. Are you sure you have spark at all the plug wires and spark from the coil wire to the cap?. The injectors may not have power or they could be clogged. The engine may be flooded. Have you tried holding the pedal to the floor while cranking it over?. Just some things to check and try.

8 degrees + or - 2 dregrees. Dist Vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged. From a Haynes Book.

I think that the owners who had issues with tuning the Flatop carbs are the main ones who might bad mouth the 260Z. That is the only real issue I have heard about them. Other then the late model ugly big bumpers. But you can always swap early bumpers and put on Round top SU carbs, depending on which state you live in. I own a late model 260z by the way. Modified it.

If you go to zcarcreations.com and click on the voltage regulator upgrade link on the left column. It takes you to a write up with pics. The diode is needed because the engine will not turn off when you turn the key off. The diode keeps the system from back feeding and eliminates the run on issue. You shoul use the 240z wiring digram because yours is an early 260z. Late model 260s wiring is closer to a 280z. I have a late model 260, I left my shunt alone. Its a big rectangle box on the right inner fender near the alternator.

I have also read that upgrading to the bigger ZX master cylinder is a better way to go. I did this to my 260z after I found the M.C. leaking badly. You may need to flip the ZX booster upside down to fit but it won't know the difference.

Post some pics.

It says your in AZ, What part of AZ are you in?. You can try calling BAP imported auto parts, ABC auto parts also. Bap usually has pretty good prices and is open on sundays.

I will say yes this is do-able within that described budget. Friends can have parts, Barter, swap meet, ebay, and Craigslist are all ways to save money. But I would think, to make that engine last. Most people would start with hot tanking the block, new cam and lifters, all engine bearings, pistons and so on. Which will of course, cause that budget to go North.

Depending on the size of the chain and links your using, take off the valve cover and try removing a couple of headbolts and then put the bolts through the links and reinstall. Or try removing one of the upper trans bolts and do the same, find one on the front/side of the engine and do the same.

You mentioned rough run and the engine feels unbalanced. Check to see if you have a possible fouled spark plug, Cylinder with no spark, Or wire that doesn't have spark to the plugs. Thats what i would check first if you havent done so already.

You can also use the Bosch style ignitor that is mentioned in the manual, I use that and it works perfectly.

Just seeing this now, Have you posted what your not understanding on here before?. If not, post what you don't understand so you can get some help. Matt Cramer from DIY and others have always helped but you need to post. Not sure if this applies since i have a megasquirt 2. How is your megasquirt set up?. Will it send spark through itself or do you need a module to get spark?.

Just some quick thoughts. Look at some of these and see what ya think. The new Camaro tail lights recessed into the panel. There was a Z in japan that had square styled lights recessed into the rear panel, Looked really nice. It was Burgundy in color can't remember where I saw pics of it. 70-72 Chevy Nova tail lights, one solid bar style light. 73-74 Chevy Nova Tail lights, 2 squares each side. 73 Ford Maverick tail lights, another solid bar design.

You mentioned that it would not turn over. I mentioned checking the ignition switch voltage thinking when someone says: not turn over, means won't crank. Will the engine crank over when this problem happens?. I was piggybacking off of Raayaps coil spark diag. ground the plug and see if you have spark when the problem pops up. When your feeling better of course.

Usually a lack of fuel causes sputtering. By not turning over at all I would look more at your ignition circuit. Ignition switch, wiring from the switch to your relays and fuses. Then check the wiring from the ems unit. If you have a voltage drop in the wiring to the starter, it can cause the no turning over issue you wrote about. A bad relay can cause the running and dying issue. When the issue shows up pull a coil and have someone crank it over to make sure it does or doesn't have spark. Maybe put the timing light on it, just to make sure the timing is correct. Over advanced timing can cause the not turning over issue also. Just a few things to look at.

Juan, if you look at the top of this page is the maps post. Niner 11 and cignus have setups similar to yours, the difference is your injectors are bigger and how much boost your trying to run. Cignus maps are good to 16lbs of boost I read. Just do the formula to increase your injector size and put the numbers in your tables. Your engine should start and then you can tune it to what your engine likes.

Look at the boobs after you go through the water box. lol If you leave on green, you already lost the race.

Could you have a Leak from the rear most bearing cap. I think thats the one with the two rubber seals you tap in between the block and the cap?. Not trying to thread jack yah. I have had an oil leak for a while. Replaced the rear main seal with an after market one and then one from nissan. I replaced the oil pan gasket and then did it again sealing it with rtv. I am beginning to think that rear cap seal is bad. Any thoughts.

I did something similar with mine, I cut the elbow out of my air box and found a filter that fit on the outside diameter of the elbow pipe. Worked great until I mounted my intercooler and had to change the intake.

Hey, Glad to read that you got it figured out and ir runs. ) So how do you like it so far?.

I think you had two seperate issues. Check your fuel pressure before the filter also. or just remove the fuel filter and try to blow through it. You should be able to blow air through the filter with little effort. If you can't blow through it or have to use a lot of effort to blow through it, it's clogged. If you have filters before the pumps check those for clogging also. Otherwise you may be buying new pumps.

I didn't use the supplied glue for my install, I got a box of velcro from Home depot and used that to mount my dash. I just cut up the strips a little smaller and stuck it on. It still is holding 4 years later. I razored off the high edges of the cracked dash and cleaned everything up before the install. Plus if i had to take it off I just need to clean the old velcro glue off and add new velcro. Just a tip if you wanted to mount the cap another way