dexter72

Looks good. What part of town are you in?. I live in Laveen.

I did the same thing as you and with the 3.90 diff in mine, it made first gear almost useless. When I accelerated hard, I had to shift out of first so quick I hated it. I put a 3.54 diff in and it made a world of difference. I could stay in first longer and it pulled harder since the turbo had more time to boost. So with the 3.54 diff you can stay in first gear longer, Boost should feel better because the turbo has more time to spool. You will like 3rd gear a lot. 3.54 diff was in them from the factory for a reason, is how i feel about it. From having both diffs in my car, I liked the 3.54 a lot better. If this is a street driven car I would do the 3.54 diff swap.

Did you just upgrade your turbo or get it rebuilt?. What type and trim is it, if you don't mind me asking.

I upgraded to Mazda RX7 n/a injectors. I am using the High Impedence ones on a pallnet style 11mm rail. I had to file down the plastic ends to get them to fit in the manifold. So I think you may have to open the ports up a tad.

Wow, So now the possibilities of a true chrome paint are affordable and endless. Sweeeet.

As Noddle has written, You have to get the engine to idle well first so work on your AFR's. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks, all the plugs are firing and all the wires have good spark. Fuel injectors are working correctly. So if you haven't done so find a timing map of someone with a similar setup to yours first. And use that for your starting timing map, you can change it whenever you need to. It is easier and faster to get the tuning done with someone in the car with you.

Do you have the wideband hooked back up?. Since it is revving better I will assume the engine doesn't have the miss in it anymore. How much tuning and driving have you done with the car?.

Can a former MD, zowner check in?. Lived in Columbia from jr high till 1998. In AZ now. 75-80 closed, wow I am way out of the loop. But glad it is re-openning. I always liked that strip. The drive up to it was nice also, wide open land. Is the area around the track still mostly farmland?.

Sean, Have you tried blowing compressed air back through the line at the tank, that feeds the pump?. This seems like a tank issue. I had a fuel starvation problem above 3500 a few years ago after I installed a new fuel level sender and replaced the fuel fill hose. I was draining the tank to recheck everything and fuel started coming out slower and slower. I blew through the drain hole and fuel started pouring out of the drain hole like it was supposed to. I blew air through the lines coming out of the tank and the problem went away. After all that I cleaned out my tank again after doing it a few months earlier. No problems with this issue since then and did my turbo swap after fixing this.

Have you compared your ve table or tables to someone on here who has a similar setup to you yet?. Check the Map sharing sticky. If your engine is still running rich as you claim, try to bring your fuel down more.

Try to find a shop that has an emissions analyzer so you can have the carb set and timing retarted some, to see if it will pass. Changing the oil and adding some denatured alcohol to your gas tank should help also. Another option: If you have another car to drive and a garage, you can register this car as an antique and get classic car insurance on it. You don't have to go through emissions at all in AZ, if you do that. I did this over a year ago, right after I did my n/a turbo swap set-up. I now can do any engine swap I want and don't have to worry about testing.

Nice going, Ok now you have to get it to run smooth. First suggestion is to remove the wideband until you get the engine to run better. You will mess up the sensor by having the engine run really rich for long periods of time. If the engine is missing, You need to find out which cylinders or cylinder is causing the rough run. Check spark at all plugs, check the plugs, check for vacuum leaks. If you get it to run smoothly then you can work on your ve tables to get a nice smooth idle.

Very nice looking car, The tail lights remind me of the late model Mr2's.

I used the bosch 124 module because i was not comfortable with soldering on my megasquirt.

Do you guys think he might need a Bosch 124 or other ignition module to fire the coil?. I had this issue a year ago with my megasquirt and it ended up not being setup to fire the coil directly. He may need one to get it to spark. I just went to the junk yard and pulled two of them off of some 80's volvo's. Worked like a charm after I wired it up and then bought a brand new one afterwards.

Good Matt, Ok take the wideband out and then start checking why it's running rough. What are your VE idle settings?. Should be around the 30-45 range. If the engine is missing check which cylinder is the problem by disconnecting an injector or plug wire. Check for any vacuum leaks by spraying the starter fluid around the intake and all the vacuum hoses and connections. The idle will pick up or go down if you have a leak where you spray the fluid. That should get you started.

Matt, Take some deep breaths and a fresh attitude and you will get your engine running. I have been working as a mechanic for 25 years and I know what your feeling. I have seen more than my fare share of new car computer system problems, some have taken weeks to figure out. But you have to step back for a few and gather yourself man. Matt Cramer, Moby, Tony D, and quite a few others have helped me with my Megasquirt install and running problems. All were my fault and also me not understanding fully what I needed to do. Once I got the help from here that I needed my engine runs Great. I just need to finish tuning it when I get some time. So like Zmanco said, post as much info as you can about the problem so they can try to help you get your car running.

What is your timing at during idle?. What is your ve/fuel setting at idle? If you increase fuel in the ve table when it is idling, what happens?. If you decrease fuel what happens?. Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. What is your required fuel setting?.

Nice going Aziza, Now you need to try to get it to start without the fluid. You may have to keep adjusting the required fuel up a bit at a time to do that, as long as the plugs aren't getting fouled.

Make sure the injectors are spraying fuel. Make sure all the plug wires have spark. After that like I suggested before, try spraying starting fluid in the intake and cranking the engine over. If it starts and runs then you have to adjust the required fuel so the engine will start without the starting fluid ok. Your required fuel could be set to high if the plugs are gas fouled also so you may have to lower that number. I had to do this and after adjusting the required fuel it started without the fluid. You then need to set up your warm up enrichment settings.

If you send an e-mail to Matt Cramer about your problem he usually get back to people quickly. Just get the e-mail to him tonite and you may get a reply first thing in the morning. Let him know your using ms2 extra and your setup. Did you try tapping the outside of the injectors with a screwdriver and hammer?. Sometimes injectors need that jolt to get them firing after they have been sitting a while. I have had to do this with brand new injectors from nissan and mazda. Double check and make sure the injectors and or relay are powered by a source that is on when cranking. If that doesn't do anything, I am thinking your injector relay or wiring is the problem.

Did you set your PWM time threshold to 25.4 for those High impedence injectors?. It's just hard to try to suggest things when your using ms Extra code and a lot of us are using ms2 3.0 or earlier ms1. Have you searched for your problem at MSEFI.com?. I think you should search for why that second light does not come on. Also I made up my own relay setup so I can't help with the relay board that you have. By the way I love the color of that Candi Z. I do nissan training in Costa Mesa off of Harbor Blvd. Maybe next time I go out there I can check it out in person?.

Ok the top light closest to the plug should flash quickly when cranking and when running for the first few minutes. It is the warm up enrichment light and will turno off when enrichment is finished. The light underneath of it should be on solid when cranking and running.

Are the injectors high impedence or low impedence?. Low impedence injectors need to have resistors added to the injector wiring to work properly. If the injectors ohm resistance is low when checked with an ohm meter, you have low impedence injectors. You also have to change your settings in megatune for them to work. High impedence injectors don't need the resistors.

To help it start up try spraying a little starting fluid in the intake boot. It should start and then if it stalls out when trying to accelerate. Try increasing the required fuel as moby suggested.