m4xwellmurd3r

interesting. I suppose for my next oil change (next week when i get more cash) i'm buyin up some Valvoline racing oil how many quarts does the 2.8 hold? I just got the car so i'm not positive on all these yet ^^ I think I should also buy a bottle of seafoam and run it through all the car (tank, intake, case)

take a look at it racing the scirroco, you should see it on the right hand side in the scroll box.

and also it fires 3 times per rotation per rotor, which add's to the sound it makes, right?

I know all the injectors are firing (used the little screwdriver trick, all 6 are singing) i still think it might be the tps though. i searched up a bit here, and found that most people had problems with the tps, would have similar symptoms (hard starting, and terrible stumbling/reving) i CAN get it to rev, just now very well. if i just hold it WOT it sounds like it wants to die, and stumbles, but slowly builds rpms. I'm going to get the tank boiled next monday. Where should i bring it to get it boiled/lined for a good price? one of the guy's at checkers said napa rebuilds injectors for 7 bucks. I'll just clean them. they probably have a ton of crud in them. to take off the fuel rail, i have to take off the hoses from the rail to the injectors, and the hoses to and from the rail, correct? are there any special precautions i should take? (besides snapping injectors in half lol) (and i do know about reliving the fuel pressure.) getting the green crap out of the female end seems like it'd be impossible.... i'd need something like a pick to do it, which i dont' have. I'll do my best though when i get out of work tomorrow. does this sound like a bad tps though? idles fine, but any more throttle and it stutter's, hesitates, or nearly stalls out. but if you give it just the right amount, it'll rev up.

few updates that caused setbacks. I changed my filter (that was a pain) i need to flush the lines and tank FOR SURE (or better yet, get a new tank) my fuseable link for my ignition relay was corroded, and the ground wire to the relay looked like it burnt once before. I cut out the bad section of wire and replaced it with a new piece, and cleaned up my fuseable links. fixed the problem right away. I looked at the spark plugs. some plugs are lean, others look rich. i DEFFINETLY need to get the injectors cleaned (I heard napa rebuilds them for 7 bucks a peice) I'm going to do all this before i actually start thinking it's other things. i'm realizing it's best to look at the most simple components before the more complex, because something dumb like a wire comming loose will make you think your relay is broken (or shorting out your entire electrical system) The copper leads on most of my connections are green. Whats the best way to take care of that? I tried using contact cleaner, but it wasn't effective enough.

Sorry hybrid Z. I was so sure that it was the relay, that even though all my searches said check the grounds, i didn't I cleaned up my fuseable links and it's back to normal. I guess it had wiggled enough to stop working right. I'll bet that's why it's not running good right now too.

i cut off the bad wire in fear of it possibly causing problems. the wire i thoguht was blue, is brown, and comes out of the ignition relay, then grounds to it's self. the horn relay is also grounded using the same screw as the ignition relay. ignition relay sounds like a buzzing bee. if i disconnect battery, wait a tiny bit, hook it back up, i can go to the acc and on positions. if i go to start, i loose all power, and the relay starts to buzz again. before i start diving in and buying parts, does it sound like the relay is shot, and causing a short? or is it something more serious??

I think the antenna motor thing shorted out a circuit on my car, because it won't start. turn the key to acc, i have voltage, turn ANYTHING on volts drop to nothing, turn to ON and i get a buzzing from a relay under the dash, if i unplug the battery for a bit, plug it in, and turn to acc, it's fine, turn on, it's fine. try to start, i get a click then the buzzing. I looked under there, and there was a black and blue wire grounded to the relay in question. the black wire looked like it had been burned (but there was never any smoke, heat, or smell, the wire must've been there in the past) any idea how i can fix it.... it's only after i try to start (after clearing the system by unplugging it) that i get the buzzing. everything works up until the start position. from the looks of the diagram, a ground wire shorted near the ignition relay. there were what looks like 2 relays attached on one mounting point, the big ignition, and a smaller one. but what's the BLUE wire for that was grounded to them with the black? I cut away a little bit of the harness, and found this. the black wire was melted up untill the wire going TO the relay, splits from 1 ground, to 3 ground. all the other wires are ok. i'm still not sure why it's like that. i belive the anntenna motor caused the short though. could it be the relay? (no fuses blown)

it quit popping through the intake if you floor it. instead it stutters and hesitates, slowly building up the rpms.

i don't have a fuel pressure guage, but the lines are most likely clogged and dirty. I'm going to clean it all out today as my main goal. i'll take off the fuel rail, clean out the injectors, replace the filter, etc.

i'm trying to think of other things it could be. i'm going to change the fuel filter and put 91 and injector treatment in it today. idle's high right now, but that's because i had to adjust it to get it running when the conections were shot. It DID run great yesterday morning, so i think it's just some connectors gummed up, or maybe the tps is going out (it might be both though) it's running rich. I put new plugs in, but i'll go check them. It did smell pretty damn rich yesterday before i changed the plugs (and the plugs were black) it's not smoking, but it does smell very gasy. the plugs were black, and also smelt very gasy (more so than it should is what i mean) it will rev as long as you do it slowly, but will bog down if you try to hit the gas to hard (if you floor it, it'll hesitate for a while and pop out the intake a bit, but will rev slowly. if i were driving, it would slow down a ton because there's no power)

i checked the AFM last night, the hoses are all clean. There aren't any cracks in teh fuel lines either (no leaks anywhere) i should clean the tps more, because as of right now it's doing nothing. I'll check my thermotime switch. there's 2 wires on it, correct? (found a picture of it so i could find it on my car, brb) cleaned up the connection, took a little bit but it deffinetly cleared up a bit. Now it's just hesitant and you have to rev it slowly. it's deffinetly the TPS now. i belive it may be out of adjustment, or just needs to be cleaned more. it's still running rich i think.

ah, ok thanks. It's arizona and cooling off, so i doubt i'll do anything about it anytime soon. I'll check my regulator. checked it. It's ok.

actually, I have a car now. After SEARCHING for the past 2 hours on here and google, i've come to the conclusion that i 100% need a new TPS for my 280. I must say though, that many times, there are some obscure questions that need to be asked about, that searching won't bring up. I do search before i ask things. but that specific topic was me wanting very specific details about arizona 280z's (which i did find out by sending a couple people in the area some pm's) I do prefer to search, however, there are times when I do have to ask, because searching just doesn't give me the exact answer I need (will be close, or would almost be related, but not quite type stuff) I'm quite happy with my 280. Not so much that it's stricter emissions, but after i change out the bumpers, i really won't notice it too much between the 240's that i like.

i've got a question unrelated to my problem (since it's almost 100% the tps at this point) why does my car have bumper over riders. 280's didn't come with them right? just wonderin. mine are in near perfect condition lol. I'm giong to fix a small problem it has, it has rather large tires (as you can tell form the pictures) the right side would scrub SOMETHING but only at a certian point. well, it toko a little while to find, but the inner lip of the fender was just ever so bent out in one section, so it scrubs. a bit of hammer tapping tommorow will fix it. (it won't scrub going over bumps, or turning and bumps, just when it hit that point.) I only found it cause it rubbed the paint off what are the two pips on the firewall for (passenger side) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/half_breed/My%20Z/DSC06838.jpg

not the maf i think. it's never been opened up either.. unplugged runs worse, cleand the contacts, idles a bit better tps does nothing after cleaning. i bet its shot no matter what, if it's in or out, the TPS is doing nothing. there is no difference between plugged in and unplugged. the fuel pump is also really noisy, and the car is running super rich. I think it might be a combination of a poor fuel pump, dirty fuel lines, and a shotty TPS

he did die..... this makes me really sad T_T

besides it's running issues it is in great shape. I don't have contact cleaner, but the contacts are NASTY (green all over) I also was wondering if the dizzy was nasty, and not burning the fuel like it should. Popped off the cap, and sure enough, it's pretty nasty looking (but not as bad) I'm gonna go by the store and grab new plugs and contact cleaner. (I love this car, and workin on her.) i don't think i cleaned the contacts well enough, because it's still doing it the way it acts reminds me of how my bug would act if you flooded it. I wonder if the dizzy is acting up. of course, i should clean it more, then i should probably try it again. if anything, on monday brian's bringing me a new tps wait, that just makes me think. What if the flow sensor was bad o_O that would cause the engine to flood out wouldn't it?

Thanks. I'll make sure it's adjusted and cleaned. (btw, what do you think of the new pics i posted lol)

well right now, if i hit the gas it'll nearly stall out, but if i ease very slowly i can get it to rev up. the plugs were black, so i bet that the tps is defaulting WOT (and the timing is probably off as well) this morning however, it WAS running fine (but it was also nearly out of fuel)

the contacts are definitely corroded, I just wanted to know what are the symptoms of a bad TPS here are some new pics I've never seen a VIN plate this shiny before on an old car this is the sticker for the color code NO RUST, it's just dirt i couldn't get off with the wet paper towel (it's dry in the pic) the 240 wheel looks better. the horn cover doesn't fit right though (i broke a wire, so i didn't put all the parts on like i should've, i will later today though)

my intake looks brand new, with shiny paint and nearly no rust on it. (i can fix the rust with sandpaper) How can you tell if the TPS is bad? anyways, brian has a new tps for it, but never installed it. I think next I'll change the oil and put some sort of treatment in it to help clean out the engine. Then i'll bring it somewhere to flush the rad (after i get it emissions tested) It sounds great. Just hearing the exhaust note brings a tear to my eye

I have pictures in the s30 section under My 280z

yeah, whenever the bad gas hits the injectors, it hesitates, and runs like crap (hit the gas, nearly dies, barely throttle and it's ok) the previous owner said it might be the throttle positioning sensor, and has a new one (he's bringing it today) I did my first major work on it today! I adjusted the valves! got everything back together, and it fired right up, no problem. sounds a touch better now, but it has an exhaust leak. I'm going to buy a new manifold and gasket for it. No major plans yet, just get it running well enough to pass emissions so i can work more. slowly i'll get it rebuilt, get a megasquirt II system, and maybe turbocharge it. That airbox of mine. Why haven't I seen it before? (oh, it even has the stickers for the color code and the note saying it's filled with antifreeze that will withstand -34F) the door jam VIN plate looks BRAND NEW. I don't think i'll have the money to boil the tank, but, would it help to drain it, and fill it with high octane and injector treatment?

I need to burn off all this nasty old gas in the tank. it's deffinetly not going to help with emissions hahaha. but first a valve adjustment is in order.