m4xwellmurd3r

Those are all things I've learned to do as instinct. my car has horns...in a box in my garage. 4 years and i haven't gotten them wired up. Not having a horn REALLY forces you to become more aware of whats going on around you....yet my car still got hit thrice...guy speeding in the parking lot when i was backing out and nicked the passenger quarter (kinda my fault for parking in a b;ind spot but seriously, totaling your van because your late to bring your kid to daycare is not an excuse to go 25 in a 10mph apartment complex), stupid kid backed into my car in a parking lot, and some guy rear ended my car at a stoplight (no damage to me though, yay bumper shocks) i got lucky though, all damage to my car can be fixed with time and a hammer. But on the road, i always have a spot i can escape to, and i'm always aware of the drivers around me...and its horrible, but 9/10 are on their phones.

I don't know much at all about cage building, but it seems like they call for a decently built 6 point cage with door bars. Doesn't seem too hard core to me.

from the IM Area? ignition module? If that's the case...maybe the module is failing? I'm not totally sure how to diagnose it, but I'm sure the FSM has something about it.

go for it on the highway, see how it acts. my car has an intermitent and random ecu problem that causes the injectors to go wide open. I usually tap the ecu with my foot and its fine. Try taking off the kick panel covering the ecu, go for a drive, and if it acts up like you described, give the ecu a decent thump with your foot and see if it runs better.

wow that front end is wild. looks like a mix between an mgb, spitfire, and rover mgf. looks really good.

Sounds like your TPS is shorted out. The idle position in the switch also causes a VERY nasty fuel cut rev limit at about the rpm range it seems like you're in.

New question...how much do you have to shave off the head to throw the cam off by 2-3 degrees?

What happens when a shop not familiar with the 280z L series engine? They twist the head straight, mill it flat, mill the cam side flat... AND THEY DON'T SHIM THE CAM TOWERS Took a good look at my head today and realized this. Got my car set at top dead center, mark 1, and it was already 2 degrees ADVANCED. I'm thinking, ****, what do I do? Did a quick teeth count on the sprocket, 40 teeth. that's 9 degrees per tooth. Advanced the cam sprocket to mark 2, 4 degrees advanced right there, plus the 2 degrees est. that it already had puts it at 6 degrees advanced. Tick the chain one tooth over, now i've got 3 degrees retarded. Fired the car up, warmed it up, and with the first press of the gas, it shot up to 6000RPM in 1st gear, leaving me with the biggest grin ever, followed by a run on the freeway. Normally, it takes the entire on ramp to hit 65. I hit 80 before I was on the freeway. THIS Is the Z car I bought 4 years ago. THIS is MY car.

i wish i could afford the awesome kits you guys sell. but i cant so i plan on building one out of steel to match my naked z lmao. cant wait to see the finished product though!

Yeah, for whatever reason when he pasted the link here it created a link to a search result, but the text itself was the right link. expensive ish kit but I'd like to have it. I've had so many times when I wish I had such a tool.

I drove my car for 25000 miles before I replaced my flywheel and clutch, and I decided then was a good time to finally check the fluid levels. I took out the drain plug...nothing came out. 3rd gear syncro is shot but other than that, I filled it up and it's been fine. those 25000 miles were very very ROUGH miles too. So I don't think that's the problem. The shift linkage is simple but i wonder if it's possible something is jamming it from going into 5th

This is an OLD problem with my 78. When I bought the car, it was a nightmare of issues with its engine and injection. it's a bone stock 78 so stock efi and everything. I got the car running pretty good through a hodge podge of tuning done without any prior knowledge of Z cars other than very basic info from reading the EFI bible and looking at the FSM for months before buying a Z car (looking back now I cringe at what I did) The car at first was trickling lean from a crimped line, fixed that, and then it was pig rich. Looking at the AFM, I noticed it wasn't the stock one and it had been opened up before, so I figured it must have been tweaked. I began cranking down on that spring so much that I damn near BROKE the afm, but the car was now running GREAT (with the tps unplugged, plugging it in caused it to buck at WOT because of h ow the afm was adjusted) the afm was so tight that it was mostly closed at idle, and it didn't max out till the 6000+rpm range. This was fine and all. the car pulled awesome all the way to 6000rpm like it was nothing. One thing I noted at the time was that cylinder 3 did nothing at idle when you unplugged it, but the car ran fine on all 6 while driving. Never passed emissions cause I didn't realize I had to adjust timing. Had to shop it cause my apartment wouldn't allow it to stay unregistered. Got a CORRECT Afm for the year, and the shop told me the leakdown test showed cylinder 3 had a really nasty exhaust valve leak. Had the head rebuilt, bought new injectors and had them install it along with the afm, car ran like crap smoking everywhere. pressure test showed it was pushing 100PSI had the seized FPR replaced. Car ran good now, but would pop out the intake at 5500rpm, found out it was because my exhaust was CRUSHED down to only a few mm. Removing the exhaust alleviated the popping issue so I replaced the exhaust. BUT, the car has ZERO power past about 4500-4800 rpm now. And this is where it's been for the past 2 years since I've gotten it registered and have put 30,000 miles on it hahah. (and for whatever reason it burns a nasty bit of oil on start up, once warm it's fine) So what the hell? It's not a fueling issue, I tried that with an adjustable pot that I had replaced the water temp sensor for testing. The afm is adjusted perfectly, and there are no restrictions in the intake nor exhaust. I thought for a while the shop had installed the camshaft sprocket wrong, but after finally gaining enough mechanical courage to check yesterday (and running around finding something to use as a chain stop. Home depot sells 12inx1in marking stakes, 12 for 2 bucks. hack one up a bit and wrap a wire on it and it's PERFECT) The shop did the job right. Timing is spot on. Set to the number 1 position. Though oddly my chain has been marked in 2 separate places by someone scratching the links (on purpose from what I see) and has the shiny link line up on number 1 perfectly fine. So that rules out my ONLY hope at getting back that top end power my car is missing. I'm really at a loss now. After more or less thinking my cam had been advanced to the number 2 or 3 notches, only finding out it's perfectly fine I'm rather annoyed. I have an MSD Blaster 2 coil installed, but could my cars ignition system be showing signs of age and isn't putting out enough spark to get good power? Plugs always look good too. I wish I took pictures of them when I pulled them yesterday. I've got something like 15000 on them and they look really good despite me constantly fiddling with my settings. :/ I'm almost starting to think my car had a weaker cam installed when it was rebuilt, but i'm pretty sure they kept the cam and rockers and all that fun stuff, and just straightened the warped head, milled it to flat (not enough to change compression) and replaced the valves, etc. pretty basic stuff. Shop said the car was hitting 155-160 on all 6 during a compression test. too. TL:DR, My car had is head rebuilt to spec, fuel system fine, exhaust fine, intake fine, but has no power past 4500-4800 when before, with a ghetto tune and 100psi of fuel pressure pulled like a monster to and past 6000rpm.

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=AP145 he had the wrong link attached to his text lol. just copy pasta what he already had

The cross bones need to be battered spindle pins!

Thanks guys haha. She smiles a lot and has a lot of my mannerisms . She sleeps exactly like me

If any of you have (not) noticed I haven't been on for a few months. I had a little girl on January 10th Her name is Juniper Azami Brown. She's actually quite well behaved. But its still tough waking up every couple hours and lack of sleep etc. She's a very happy baby too haha

Reverse pattern as in this 531 R42 there are people that really believe RHD cars have this pattern

My 78 just started doing this sort of crap TODAY. Was getting on the freeway and brought it upto about 5k then all of a sudden the car is running pig rich to the point it dies, and struggles to stay alive with very careful throttling. Had it off for a few minutes and fired it up, ran fine, gave it a good rev to 6k and went off on my way. Keep driving for about a half hour and decide to give it another go. Goes right up to 5k perfect then suddenly acts like someone started dumping too much fuel into it. This time I pull off of the road and keep it alive the best I can and it clears up on its own. Driving home from work, I decide to keep it at a steady 3000rpm and then bring it up briefly to 4k and notice a heavy stumble, quickly slow down and it drives ok at low rpm, but then slowly degrades till I have to pull off the road and let it sit a while. I have NO idea what causes this type of issue as I've never had a car do this before. Everything is bone stock. Has a one year old blaster 2 hooked up to it. So far I haven't done any diagnostics on it, since I really don't know where to start in a situation like this.

stock mirrors have 2 screws that hold it to the body. that's all that holds it on. on the inside of the door is a metal plate that has the threads for the screws. once you get those 2 screws out you'll probably hear a loud clang when it falls into the inside of the door lol. it's a little bit of a pain to get back in but you can do it with just taking off the door panel and fishing it back into its spot (i can't remember if it had a perch it sat on though) I don't recall there being any plastic cover. Just a metal base with 2 screws on it.

I have one good car buddy that i've known for years before either of us got deep into working on cars outside of general fixups. He's been a real good friend too. He saw how balding my old balloon tires were, and let me burn out his tires, got me new tires on my rims, and said I could pay him back for it (I still owe him 100 for them >_>) I saved him from selling his V8 280z by giving it the tune up it needed to wake it up and in the process, destroyed his diff (it now makes loud popping noises when hit hits something like 75-80mph) and now he's mostly willing to help me pull the trans out of my Z to replace the flywheel and clutch. Problem is his roommates 300zx is in teh garage getting fixed, and this week he's got a guy coming over to replace the turbo and other bits in his engine. It's a good 50minute drive but its' worth it over handing the parts over to some guy at the shop and forking over 300 bucks instead of just paying back my friend the money I already owe him (and probably a case or two of beer lol) Seriously though, i remember years ago hanging out with my dad and his friends just tearing apart and old vw fast back to prep it into a drag car, eating bbq and watching car video's while tinkering/tearing apart whatever. What happened to those days?

lol those are roughly the same size as the chevette core. actually the first link looks EXACTLY like the chevettes core!

I got one recently from Performance Products and it had to be sanded down with some emery cloth before i could get it to fit. First one was ordered from MSA and failed after 5 months of street use. A single email to Performance Products and I had a brand spankin new one at my door step, no questions asked. Same thing, it was a really tight fit and needed some sanding/etc to get it on, but this time no failure. (the first one's dampening material had seperated and caused it to start spinning round and round)It's a great part for the price imo, and Performance Products definitely care about making sure their stuff is up to standard.

Was your fan painted? I don't know a ton about plastics and such, but I would think that some paints could damage the plastic? I know with paintballing, if you use windex on your masks lense you MUST replace it because it can cause it to shatter since windex puts little micro cracks in the plastic. You would never know it till one of them took a direct shot and CRACK you've got paint in your face and you don't know what happened...or worse. and I know i've spray painted some small plastic parts before and they seemed to lose some of their rigidity

Yeah. I'd be willing to bet every car in the WRC runs anti lag. instead of firing on the combustion stroke, it fires on the exhaust stroke, with tons of fuel. big BANG into the turbocharger. burns them out real quick. glowing hot i'll bet even.

awesome cygnus! It almost seems like with enough work, you can make the ecu fully adjustable with a series of adjustable resistors and a good wideband setup and lots of dyno tuning. Difficult as hell but holy crap that's awesome