speeder

I had the same concerns after first looking at my YZ rear quarters. I didn't alter either mating surface. I roughed up the metal underneath with 80-grit sanding discs, then trimmed the quarters fo fit and temporarily attached them with long sheet metal screws. When I was satisfied with the fit, I removed the quarters and applied a really thick, messy bead of Duraglass all the way around the insides of the panels, and then quickly installed the quarters with the sheet metal screws. I had 2 friends with me to mix up the big globs of Duraglass, apply it, and then run in the screws with cordless drills before the duraglass set. Smoothing off the excess Duraglass squeezed out of the seams with a sureform grate before it's completely hard saves you some work later - this stuff is slow sanding when cured. This mounting technique seems to be very secure. As a side note, I had to fabricate triangular extensions for where the YZ quarters didn't extend far enough to meet the body in the bottom area behind the wheels, and built inner fender liners of fiberglass. See my gallery for the YZ in progress.

Glad to see you got 'er done guys - We should be hearing about less axle maintenance now:mrgreen: .

For my drag wheels, I have Weld Pro Stars, 15X10, 6.5" backspace, on my AZC 5-lug rear brake setup. I'm using 1-1/4" spacers to gain the right positioning within the wheel well for my 325/50-15 M/Ts. I need big rear flares to cover these tires. Mike, my rotors and calipers are the same as yours, but the rotor hats and caliper brackets for the 5-lug setup give it a different offset than your 4-lug one. (I just changed from 4- to - 5-lug. ) But the Pro-Stars with proper backspace do have enough ID to clear your calipers. I even run 15X6, 3.5" backspace (with 2" spacers) on the front with no clearance problems with the AZC fronts. Also, I think the front 5-lug hubs are not at the stock offset either, so again you should measure for needed backspace to make sure. Next time we get together I can help with measurements as I've been doing a lot of that recently:mrgreen: .

Dan McGrath, 74_5.0L_Z. That tube front is simply beautiful.

Sweet! That looks like fun. The damper looks to be inline with the front axles. That double pump is as long as the motor!

This type of engine has fascinated me from the beginning. I'm talking the racing V6s, specifically the Buick Stage 2 and the ex- NASCAR Bowtie version. Ford even had a V6 in this hunt that was competitive. They are all characterized by massive bottom ends - 4-bolt splayed and crossbolted mains, Carillo/Oliver rods, and billet cranks with large journals. Most builders preferred the odd-fire cranks for ultimate strength, although some even-fire versions were used. The valve trains have mechanical roller lifters and Jesel/T&D rockers. They made 650 hp in Busch Grand National carbureted 14:1 CR form, pushing a NASCAR brick to over 200mph on the superspeedways. The turbocharged Buick Indy application made 1300hp on alcohol and still holds the lap record there. Turbocharged horsepower numbers in the 4-digit range are fairly easy with gasoline. Heads on these things are capable of massive airflow numbers. 2.15" intake valves, 1.85" exhausts. Big block-sized ports. Intake cfms in the 350+ range at .600 lift are common. They provide an ideal start point for a monster turbo engine due to the strength of the bottom end. Being a short V6, there will be lots of room up front/top for big turbos, not to mention giving good weight distribution in a Z. Probably would weigh close to as much as an SBC due to the extra iron in the block, but concentrated further back. An RPM range well into the 8K area makes for good roadrace flexibility, and the big torque is there if you can hook it up for drag racing. Careful drivetrain selection required here! Now for the down side - $$$$$. The components and custom machine work are damned expensive. Ask me how I know. Converting a "compression" motor to turbo trim involves custom pistons, valves, and camshaft, among other tweaks. Smart shopping on the used racecar parts market will pay off, but this is hit or miss - and some things you just need to buy new. Looking at Scottie's power level and what he did to get it probably will give a good idea of the limits of the stock-type V6, whether It be a Buick or a properly built Chevy V6. I would think that head flow is what would limit horsepower in the stock block turbo motor, although you could reach the limits of bottom end strength with lots of boost. Probably there are more available turbo specific parts and knowhow for the Buick than the Chevy. Still, It all comes down to the same things required to build big horsepower by any route - bottom end strength, sufficient breathing, and good fuel management, along with meticulous attention to detail in the design/assembly/setup of the engine. So anyway, I'm a V6 turbo proponent if you haven't guessed. Some day maybe my 274 ci twin turbo odd-fire Buick will be out of machine shop jail and into the Z. Do it I say - It's a cool way to go - that hood would work nicely with twin turbos - but doing it right isn't the simplest (or cheapest) route you could choose.

Oh yeah, It was 2950 with me and 1/2 tank of gas before the R230 install. Probably an even 3000 now. This is with an 8-point cage, A/C, stereo adequate to overcome coilover and engine noise, and really heavy (but comfortable) seats. Extra weight is nothing that mo' boost (and maybe a bigger motor) can't overcome!

I've also noted the different part number for the T5 fork. Just recently I took a known correct T5 fork (ordered from the dealer) and carefully compared it to several 280Z forks laying around in my junk box. As far as I can determine, they are the same. Probably a good thing to get a new one, however - they have been known to develop small cracks and/or flex excessively with age.

Mixing and matching Z clutch parts can be a nightmare. I have learned the following by painful experience. The T5 uses a unique slave cylinder that makes the plunger of the slave go straight at the clutch fork. You can bolt the slave from the Nissan transmission onto the T5, but it will work at an odd angle, and will limit travel somewhat. All Z Clutch forks except those from the early 240Z are the same. The 240Z one has a hole on the outside end to bolt on and adjust the 240Z- unique slave plunger. All non-turbo Zs except the early 240 use the same slave cylinder. Be sure you have the correct master to match the slave you are using. Some "parts store" masters, even though they are the same diameter as the one being replaced, do not move enough fluid to fully actuate the slave. I "think" that all Z masters are the same except for the 240. The T5 uses a unique TOB collar. It is the longest one used in any Z (there are 3 lengths that I have seen), to my knowledge. The T5 was always installed with a 240mm flywheel and clutch - you may want to see if you can check how the height of your pressure plate compares to the 240mm. If the clutch fork has about a 45* angle towrds the front when pushed all the way backwards by firm hand pressure only, you are probably OK mechanically and are dealing with hydraulic issues. Make sure that the lines and cylinders are thoroughly bled. Let me know what measurements you need for the correct T5 parts and I'll get them for you.

I would be in on the R230 Bar also!

I run 75# 'ers on my 3.0L with largish (.515 lift) turbo cam and Electromotive TEC2 in batch-fire mode. I have a good, smooth idle at ~14.0 AFR.

I think Paulo is referring to shipping my spoiler. Hopefully this is the one that will compliment the 280YZ body. I'll post pics when mounted on the car.

Mine, too. I was really alarmed at the noise produced with Kevin's (of The Gearbox) specified breakin gear lube - non-synthetic ATF - so much that I thought there was a problem and called. He said, "Remember those old Muncie Rock Crushers?" Those narrow angle gears do really sing. I guess that it's a little of getting used to it, being lots quieter with the Synchromax, and breakin occurring, but the noise is hardly noticable for me now.

I've already placed my old clutch setup where it belongs - in the dumpster. Considering the reputation of this vendor, along with making the assumption that any competition use is not warranted, I felt that I would be wasting my time trying to get some satisfaction from SPEC - At this point I doubt that anything can be done with their pieces to suit my needs. I had a Stage 3 (without the double diaphragm PP) setup installed before the G-force T5 went in, and it didn't look too good when removed - The guys at Spec recommended upgrading the PP with the new install, which I did. I know how to check/set up hydraulics, as well as to how avoid contamination. I've had no problems - other than the expected signs of hard use - with other brands of clutches. Sorry to keep trashing, but spending money to do things over, not to mention replacing clutches, tends to make a fellow cranky.

I didn't know what you were talking about untill I scrolled over to the left in the gallery section out of my pictures. I wish this was one of mine - and it makes my patriotism rise, also. Those top fasteners are just Sparco captive torsion pins, blue anodized. Mat is correct - It will be painted the same dark blue pearl as in my sig pic. I have thought about stripes, but will probably not do them. Again, that rear spoiler is being produced by member Fazzt73. I think mine will be the first production item. Maybe if he gets a deluge of pms clamoring for this piece maybe he'll push spoiler production to the forefront and I'll get mine sooner.

Oh yeah, The side latches are cad-plated camlocks from Pegasus Racing. I'm thinking about powder coating or chroming them if they get corroded - but like the "vintage racer" look that they and the Le Mans gas filler give the car.

Thanks guys- The rear spoiler is here: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/fazzt73/album?.dir=/a7c8 -the tall one. I may reshape its ends to get the look I want. I'm sure that 12" wide wheels will fit in those big fender wells - as well as even bigger tires. I have test fitted the following wheels/tires on the car: 17X10.5, 21MM offset, 315/35 rear, 275/40 front Sumitomo HTR-Z -street 18X10, 26mm offset, 305/35 rear, 275/40 front Toyo RA-1 -roadrace 15X10, 6.5" BS rear with 325/50 M/T ET Street DR, 15X6, 3.5" backspace front with 26X6.5 Hoosier Street Rod radial - drag All of this is with Arizona Z Car 5- lug Wilwood Brakes, 2" thick spacer on the front hub and a 1-1/4" spacer on the rear. Talking about what will fit is complicated by what front/rear hubs/hats are used - the AZC stuff alters offsets. I plan on getting wheels with the proper offset to eliminate the spacers eventually, but we're talking custom 3- piecers and $. Currently I'm using wheels with 96-04 Mustang specs because the price is right. I have found that cooling, both at rest and at speed, is improved by the cowled and scooped hood. I was experiencing problems with my previous unvented hood getting enough air past the 4.5" thick intercooler to adequately cool the engine (and me) in 90+ degree Florida heat. Theory aside, this hood configuration is working for me. I had thought about using 280Z-style louvers in the side positions, and still may if the need arises. I also plan to build large ducts through the inner fenders out through the side vents to relieve air pressure in the engine compartment. That will be done when the L comes out to make room for domestic horsepower. Almost time to change my sig pic!

New pictures with final primered body configuration are now in my member gallery. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7493&limit=recent Front tires are now 275/40-17, rears 315/35-17. 10" 2003 cobra rims all around. I will probably adjust ride height lower on these wheels/tires, but I'm liking the stance. I'm awaiting a rear spoiler from Paulo (Fazzt73) to complete the deal, and hope to finish block sanding/painting soon.