speeder

According to a wise(***) friend of mine, if you try to polish a turd all you get is a sh!tty rag.You may prove this person wrong. Good work!.

You got serious skilz, John. Very cool project.

'Bout time you got Big Momma installed Tim!

Anyone have any advice for changing heater hoses in a 280ZX? Looks to me like you have to pull the heater core or AC Evaporator to get at the inside connections of the two hoses. Definitely not built to be easily worked on... Thanks for any assistance.

I got a pretty bad cut on my hand one time and didn't want to stop working, so I wrapped the greasy injury with a blue paper shop towel and "racer" taped it to hold. Figured that germs would have a hard time living in grease. My wife came out, looked at my "bandage", and just shook her head while walking back into the house. Same thing here, "What's that red stuff all over the place? Oh....."

Perfect except needs some "R" stickers and a bigger wing.

I like 'em! Best flame job I've seen. Someday I'll get the courage to do flames on one of my cars.

Absolutely gorgeous and best looking wheel for the Z. I will be ordering mine soon - the YZ front is complete enough, still have to get the AZC 5-lug brakes on so I can measure for offset/backspace. Mine will be 18X13" rears/12" fronts, black centers like yours.

I have a Megasquirt built and have been lurking in this section for a while. I plan to use a locked- timing MSD VR distributor and have the MS control timing for a conventional distributor/ coil ignition. This is not on an L6 - I'm talking general setup here. Looks to me as if you have a signal from your distributor that is compatible with the Tach input of the Megasquirt (Such as the MSD or the 280Z VR distributor amplified by an HEI module, as in Moby's sticky drawing http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/8239mss_vr_schematic.jpg -with the MSD in plce of the HEI on the FIDLE output), and if the Fidle output can trigger a MSd box, then you're set to use MSnS to control timing and use the MSD to drive the coil. Unless I'm missing something very basic, this discussion got way more technical than needed.

Got the Armada R&P - For info, the ratio is 47/16 = 2.9375. Now to see if it fits in the 300ZX Carrier. To be continued.

If it's fast, it's all good. Right or Wrong is a personal decision - not to be foisted on others.

No. I am truly amazed and amused at the double standard exhibited here. And those who think they know my bias will reassess when they see my next engine for the "Chop".

Thanks guys - I'll take some pictures of the front sitting on the car tomorrow - The old digital camera had a tendency to squash and otherwise distort dimensions - I'll take my new camera (early Christmas present) next time. It will start to look better when the body's all in one color - That will be a milestone when we start priming. The hood does look shorter in real life because of its width, and I trimmed the air dam to install it several inches back to reinforce the stubby mutated Z look. I was really set on getting the stock buckets integrated so it would still look like a Z. I have the Reaction Research backward facing scoops to go in the small cutouts in the hood, and will put the ZX Spyder louvered vent panels in the lower front fender sides. This is starting to be a showcase for John Washington's inventory. I think the G-nose would be do-able with about the same effort.

Sometime in the next couple days I'll mount this on the car and start adapting the front side panels and cheek panels. Hinges are built and headlight mounting panels are made- Installing headlight buckets was a biatch. I'm going to stop making estimates for when this will be finished - It's a much bigger job than it looked. I'll just keep working on it until done.

The same thing happened to me once when I had a slight leak in the fuel rail/injector hoses. Only the higher fuel pressure under boost would cause it to leak enough to be noticed.

Thanks Cyrus- Ordered the Armada 2.95 R&P today - will report results.

So if I just ream the bolt holes in the ZXTT LSD bigger, use the Armada bolts to attach, then setup the new R&P, it should work in the ZXTT case? For general info, the Armada R&P set is 295.00 list price from Courtesy Nissan's web site. I'm gonna order it very soon, and report results.

The website is woefully out of date concerning wheels, body, and engine - have to update sometime. I'm using 2-piece 4-5lug spacer/adaptors 1.75" thick on Arizona Z-car 4-lug brakes to enable use of Mustang wheels on my coilover'ed Z. The black mesh HREs were 16" and really limited tire choices. When I am out of bodywork hell with the new flares on I will be installing the AZCar 5-lug brakes and getting wheels (CCW) which will need no spacers to fit. The 4-lug AZC brake kit retains the stock backspace range but the 5-lug set moves the hubs outward.

Nice work! I would like to do the opposite - installing Armada 2.96 r&p in a 300ZXTT Diff. Based on your experience, is that possible?

CCW Classics w/black centers will be on my car after the completed 280YZ widebody conversion.. 18 X 12" wide at least! My favorite wheels by far. Do it, Joel!

I'm curious as to the definition of "negative boost" also.

HybridZ- What's the best way to get the grease out from under my fingernails?

Rufus, Thanks! That's just what I was looking for. My cheek panels (same as yours) interfere with the YZ front fenders at the green arrows just like in the picture. I will be leaving the front wing portions on, and extending them to fit the contours of the insides of the fenders - there's a lot of road debris thrown upward without some sort of liner there. I like the way you did the ears (red arrow) and may copy that.. this was a place that was hard to fit with my previous front, but they didn't flop at speed. My cheek-to-lower fender panel connection will be like yours also (complete with the same vents), but will require a bit more fiberglass construction to fill in the wedge-shaped void caused by the outward flare of the YZs. There is more glass work required to connect these panels to the car at the panels' bottoms, also. I thought the rear quarter installation was bad, but the front is way more involved and labor-intensive. Probably should have known better after doing a tilt one piece previously. I'm bitching and whining as i work, but have seen enough good results to keep myself motivated and moving ahead. I really hate glass and body work. I'm slow, but stay at it until everything's right. I'll take some pictures when I have something to show - right now I'm still measuring and trimming things getting ready to stick the hood, fenders, and air dam together to make the one-piece, and will then get on the cheeks and side panels.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90825&highlight=Improved+Valve+Stem+seals

I have gone the "machining the spring seat" route with Isky springs and I can tell you there are better solutions. If you buy the Schnieder springs and retainers from MSA you don't have to machine the seats and you will have a spring that will support .550 lift or something rediculous like that at the specified height/set valve seat pressure. I'm currently running .515 lift on the Schnieders/unmodified seats with no issues. The valve stem seals then become an issue, and the Fel-Pro Ford items take care of that.