speeder

Sounds very similar to the BAE Turbo Kit I installed on my '77 280Z almost 30 years ago.

I'll look in the FSM to see if there's a relay between the key switch and starter ...There may be a relay that energizes with the start position, but I still don't believe that in the 280Z it's in the switch-to-starter solenoid circuit. I'll verify this tomorrow (at work now). The sequence you should use to troubleshoot: 1. Jumper battery volts straight to the solenoid and see if it cranks. If yes,then the starter is good. (New starters have been known to be bad) 2.if there is a relay in that position, you can test it the same way as the switch: by jumpering the contacts and checking for starter operation. If yes, then the relay contacts are bad. (Noted that the relay is clicking, indicating a good circuit from the switch) 3. Finally, jumper the switch contacts to test the ignition switch and the whole starter circuit. Only 3 parts (2 maybe ) here, plus some wire. This sequence should help locate the problem.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110915

This is how I did my T5 in a '77: Used the crossmember from a 280ZX,which has a rearward offset. Then got a front diff mount and slotted the mounting holes so that it bolted to the T5. Mounted the T5 to the ZX crossmember with the Diff mount turned backwards in place of the tranny mount. Fits perfectly. You then have to shorten the ZXt driveshaft 3/4" or so and change the diff's companion flange to a ZXT mating piece. The front of the center console was trimmed to give clearance for the foreward position of the T5's 1st,3rd, and 5th gears. The shift lever boots (inner and outer) were redone to fit. Aftermarket Mustang shifters improve shift quality and help to get the shift knob back to a better place. Royal Purple Synchromax gear lube really improves shift feel.

I had the same problem with a 240Z that a late model 280Z 5-speed had been installed into. Replacing the master cylinder fixed it. Seems that the master for the 240Z does not have the internal volume that the 280Z (and later) one does. In my case, the master that worked was differentiated visually by having the hydraulic port about 1" aft of the 240Z part that didn't work. Strange because they have the same bore diameter. Another issue - the slave for the T5 is a different part than the one for the Nissan trannys. I think you have to have that slave for the T5.

Yeah, The 280Z needs a little heavier mallet, and I'm keeping my eye out for that one.

Saw this in Ace Hardware and just had to buy it.

Victoria British (Now Black Dragon) http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ has the unique Nissan T5 tailshaft seal - part no. 61-206, $19.95. Yes, I am the man.

I went through the same thing with my '78. Don't think it has a starter relay, though. My car energizes the starter solenoid directly from the switch contacts, and I think the '77 is the same. I don't think the type engine has much to do with your problem... My problem was the ignition switch not making a good contact when in the start position. Like I said, same symptoms: Click sound from passenger foot well when in the Start position, no crank. Test this by pulling the plug off the back of the ignition switch and jumping the red/white wire to the black/yellow wire in the connector running back to the car. If the starter works when you do this, then the switch is bad. The contacts portion of the switch is easy and cheap to replace.

I use the MSD 2225 - It will make up for a lack of pump capacity, up to a point. If your fuel pressure is reading base setting + boost in the high load areas, though, I would say that you should look somewhere else. At 10 psi you should not be maxing out the 460cc injectors.... What fuel management are you using? Never mind - just went back and looked at your sig.

Yeah Baby!

My vote is all black. Do the wheels black too! I have been thinking of doing that also. The YZ kit looks much better in a dark color, IMO. Mine(Picture below) will be painted sometime soon, will be a very dark blue (Looks black in most light).

Norm, I'm looking for the "rear end pinion flange" that bolts to the 280ZXT's driveshaft. You won't need it unless you're using that shaft. Thought maybe you thought I wanted the CV ends. Those things are the devil to find.... and Ken just grabbed my only one.

Norm, The companion flanges are different between the ZXt turbo and earlier R200s, but the flanges will interchange. U-joint halfshafts will plug right in. I'm looking for a ZXT companion flange by the way... If you want to part with it, $$$$. Let me know. I even have non-turbo flanges to trade for it.

Beautiful!

Mike, I vote for the NA FI L28. My '78 daily beater has a dished piston L28, 1mm HKS headgasket, E31 head modified with injector notches,280Z valves, and 480/280 cam. It has a stock flywheel lightened to about 14lb, Centerforce II clutch, 3.9 gears, early 280Z 5-speed. Injection is handled with a Haltech F9 and 370 cc injectors. Ignition is a Mallory distributor and MSD 6AL. It has a cheap MSA header and a ported N42 intake with 60mm TWM throttle body. This combo runs cool with AC blasting, will run a 14.0 quarter mile, and is reliable as a hammer. It does need at least 89 octane gas to prevent detonation. I could run it on 87 if I backed off timing. I have decided to keep the beater in its very pleasant present form instead of putting the 3 liter turbo stroker in there when I go hybrid with the '77 Porker. Simplicity and reliability, that's where it's at for a daily driver. You are so right about the "while I'm at it" spiral for turbo cars.

I've ordered a setup from Clutch Specialies that has been proven in TimZ's and jkurz's 400+whp cars - An ACT Heavy duty PP with Clutch Specialties' sintered iron disc. Not cheap - ~ 500.00. Clutch Specialties 645 S. State College Blvd Unit #H Fullerton, CA 92831 (714) 525-4272 ask for Brian. I've heard many positive testimonials for all-ACT clutch sets, also.

Woo Hoo! Nice start!

Couldn't have said it better myself - Not worth a sh!t for anything!

This culture change is fun! My little local ricer buddies are pissed at me for switching to an OHV(not OHC) lump, while old-school hot rodders like the choice. The turbo Buick (GN) community doesn't know what to think, and largely ignores me. Turns out my machinist is an ex- NASCAR engine builder who is familiar with the BGN V6 stuff, and is grinning ear to ear. That's what he said exactly -"Now that's a motor!" Just gimme those 12 jumpin pushrods and more boost please. Dry sump will be used.. I've been a satisfied Valentine user for about 8-9 years - Saved my butt more times than I can count.

I edited my post. I meant that the L motor is wimpy compared to the Stage. The car with the old body (as in the sig picture) ran traction limited 12.0 quarter miles. My only attempt to run with the new YZ flares covering 325/50-15 M/T Drag radials obliterated my new clutch. The Stage swap is a few months down the line still - and until then I'll explore the L's potential, probably with a large shot of nitrous on top of that 424hp and a stronger clutch. Would a 10-second quarter with the L live up to the bodywork?