speeder

Obviously, I like the 280YZs front and rear.

Sweet!

One thing I have not heard discussed, which would be of interest to many here, would be obtaining a contour map of pressure differentials across the surface of the stock S30 hood. This would be extremely helpful to those planning to add vents or scoops (like maybe...me!).

Nope, those are called halfshafts or "drive shafts" in Nissan shop manual lingo. The stub shafts are those things that run though the rear wheel bearings that connect the halfshafts to the rear wheels. Nissan calls these "axle shafts". Translation table: Standard American--- Nissan-ese Drive Shaft------------- Propeller Shaft Halfshaft (CV Axle)------ Drive Shaft Stub Axle ---------------Axle Shaft

Tony, PM me if you would like some E-motive/WBO2 interface info. We Central Florida guys have done several with good success.

Got my flange - it's the correct one - everybody's happy! Thanks Joel.

Sweet! Actually, your build is what inspired my choice of the 280YZ kit. More pics please!

TonyD, You need to get some competent (or honest) support for the TEC2. It can use almost any universal replacement type narrowband O2 sensor. And,with VE tables properly done, it hardly needs to even have O2 feedback enabled at all! The narrowband sensor is unreliable or even useless in resolving any AFR outside the 14 to 15.5 range, making closed loop operation only feasible for idle and low-load operation. This will be true for any fuel management you use. If you're serious about tuning, get a wideband interfaced to the TEC.

Or in one's personal esthetics. Functional does not always equal pretty.

What if the ricer wing is the best?

Glad I could help!

Where to start? First, you can make almost anything out of fiberglass that you can imagine. On my project, I started with a collection of fiberglass components and modified them to fit on the car and each other with mostly free-form molding with wax paper-lined cardboard forms. I also joined some components, smoothed/blended togther and then cut at strategic places to make the one-piece front. Fiberglass is easy to work with and you can redily redo things that don't come out the way you like. I don't know how many times I made a piece, the whopped it off with a saber saw to do over. Final finishing is very similar to doing metal bodywork. My car took about six months of my spare time to get where it is now. It is probably more a testiment to stubbornness rather than skill. Lots of sweating and itching involved, and although I said I would never do it again, this is actually the second tilt front I've done. I guess I would say (now that it's mostly done) it is worth the effort to have something truly unique. With all this said, I must bow to the skills of members Terry (Blueovalz) and Dan Juday, who have finished and painted cars, masterpieces of fiberglass customization. I tried a few different rear spoilers before I settled on Paulo's rear wing as the one that looked right - I do know that the Kaminari is out of production. I say do it! Let me know if I can answer specific questions and I'll be glad to help.

No. However, the input flange on the R230 is different from the R180 one. Look through the R230 swap threads and you will find the part number and source for the R230 input flange adaptor to use.

Viet Nam, '67-'68, USAF Mobile Comm here. I had easier duty than most, but left some of my high school buds there. I hope we took some lessons from that episode.......

Carnage like that is both fascinating and horrifying - You are simultaneously proud that your raw power can destroy things but bummed because you have to go back "into the breech" and fix the latest weak link - Not to mention spend mo' money. Sure does make a good case for the top-supported front diff mount designs.

I'm in - Pay Pal $ coming soon.

Joel, I have the 300zx one (far right) and need a 280ZX Turbo one (middle). Trade? I can get this out to you Monday.

Air dam, damnit!

I don't know this for sure, but am 90% positive that the 3.36:1 R&P from an automatic 350Z will fit that case. Both the 350Z and the Q45 utilize the later generation short nose R200, although the 350Z case is a little different externally. The mounts for the Q45 and the Armada/300zxtt diffs are very similar, but using an R 230 will require you to use a different driveshaft. The CVs you have should be Ok. The available Armada gears are 3.36 and 2.93, but to use these R&Ps my driveline shop had to use an Armada case with the 300zxtt input flange, side flanges, lsd unit, and rear cover. HybridZ member Cyrus built a 2.93 R230 and documented it here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106621&highlight=Armada Sweet hybrid, by the way. I bet that's fun.

What I said.

I like it! Cool, unique, and "in your face" - all properties of a good hybrid. Put me down on the pro side of this one.

OSU is GATOR BAIT!

You should use the end stops on both sides. TimZ ruined an inner CV with no stop installed, and I trashed an outer.

The TEC 2 will work quite well with a number of different WBO2 controllers. I have had good results in 8 TEC 2 installations with the Innovate LM-1 and the FJO systems. You just have to know how to interface them, get the calibration correct and matching in both the wideband and TEC, then use the setup to properly tune your engine. Some widebands will not work with the TEC 2 because they have no provision to output a reverse curve from the low volts=lean to high volts=rich that the TEC expects. The AEM unit is one of these. It may be possible to change this in the calibration software. If this doesn't work we will build an op-amp circuit to invert the signal. We had Scottie's and Zgad's LM-1s working well interfaced to the TEC, but they had opted to change to a different system because of The LM-1's propensity to "get stupid" on occasion. This has been proven to be a LM-1 problem rather than one with the TEC. That 240ZTurbo, Scottie, and Z-Gad have had the results that have been shown so far is a testimonial to what the "archaic" TEC 2 is capable of when installed and tuned properly.

I use 780cc Delphi Disc-type injectors in my 3.0l L with Electromotive Tec2. Supposedly the disc types have a better pattern and are less suseptible to clogging than the pintle types. The low impedence injectors such as Delphi and Lucas do exhibit faster opening and closing speeds, (when used with a compatible ECU that has peak-and-hold drivers) which make them the best choice when using 550s or bigger. I can idle at 15:1 or so - but have found that most L motors like 13.8-14:1 for a smooth idle. Previously I had Lucas 550s from RC engineering (also low impedence, disc-types) and had absolutely no problems with idle/low speed running. You should be fine resolution-wise with the Megasquirt(Version 3.0 with PWM) and disc-type 550s. Cheap, good injectors are here: http://racetronix.com The secret to idle tuning with big injectors is to pull timing in the idle regions of your map.