Slammed68

Shadows are stressful lol... Thanks for the measurement.

Weewawoowaa - here it goes again. Wheels are 4 lug. Still need adapters. Dont have money for conversion. Would rather get car running first. Broke. 18. Stressed over car not moving under own power. Need alt - starter - MAF - fuel and done. Do you have the 5 lug conversion Ls1 240Z? I just asked a simple question. Stop trolling every thread I start by telling me I need to do this and that.. its old. I have the wheels and tires already sitting here and flares ordered. Im sorry you didnt build your car that way SOOOOOOOOOOOO. Anyone think the flares will be close with the wheels sitting how they are now? Oh yeah, rant over.

Took me about 5 minutes, and I was careful not to distort the metal. The welds broke off cleanly and I was able to just grind the leftover material down. My bumper/holes are completely "shaved" and you cant see any waves at all where they were.

The wheel mounting surface is sitting against the 1" studs. So this would basically be like a 1" spacer. With ZG flares, would a 1" spacer be more appropriate or a 2"? I havent seen some real in depth measurement pictures or measurements of the ZG's so I wasnt really sure.

I just ripped mine off, used to back and forth method and eventually weakened all the spot welds. Came off with no holes and some metal to grind smooth, and then done.

Tars mounted Flares ordered Just for all you haters

It has said in every set of aluminum wheels I have ever bought, in the owners manual, to drive the first 50 miles, and then RE-TORQUE all the fasteners to spec.

Dont be lazy - just take your wheels off at 25 miles, 50 miles, 100 miles, 500 miles and so on and check for anything wrong. I have seen tons of people run adapters and spacers with no problems. I think the reason of these breaking is more of a user fault issue more than a product issue. I had a wheel fall off my 87 Cherokee because once the aluminum settles on the steel, there will not be the tightness like there was. The wheel eventually worked its way off. Ive found that anything ANYTHING aluminum going on drivetrain where there is a chance of settling, needs to be tightened at least once after 25-50-100 miles.

Wowee.. I get to run CCW's, sportmax's, Rewinds, or on eof the other 3 wheels that work... sounds like fun. I am pretty specific on the wheels I want, which were flat faced thick spoke 5 spoke wheels, with no dish. I got what I got, no sense in wasting money to send them back when theyre what I want. I dont understand the big boo hoo on using 1" thick adapters and fender flares.. Has anyone ever seen a Black white theme ZG flared car on black 5 spoke wheels? Nope. LQ4? Nope. I see people running spacers/adapters on high hp cars all day long without a single problem. Because they dont make black 03 Cobra reps for that. And what if I wanted to run ZG flares anyways? Custom wheels, spacers, or bust I guess. Im 18, sorry my haggardness when ive spent almost 7K in the past 3 months, cant compare to you guys' perfect methods of having a driving running car

What way are you guys talking about swapping it to 5 lug, with the arizonazcars kit? I dont know if I would even have near that much extra money to spend. I would like this car to at least run and drive by spring. Im getting kinda hungry too :/ All my money is going into this damn car Guess thats the good life.

Awesome, I didnt know how rattle can would work with the trim being stainless and all. Guess I can add 1 more to my to do list

Trying to find a way to do that without powdercoating.. I dont really want to spend a billion dollars trying to black out the trim..

Im going to run fender flares, so adapters should set the wheels out almost where I need them. Restocking fee and shipping out of my pocket does definitely not seem worth the money at this time. I would much rather make due with what I have, considering tires will be here Tuesday. Probably wont have enough money for better brakes for quite a while, an I will probably just do the toyota caliper setup. Just going to be a DD, no road courses or auto-x around here

Because this swap hath broken me. I still have to buy driveshaft - water pump - alt - starter - couple other small things before this thing will even run. 6.0 swap just in case you didnt know

What an idiot I am. I worried too much about width and everything, that I totally forgot about th lug pattern. I THOUGHT a mustang pattern was the same as my jeep, 4x4.5, but theyre 4X4.25 Heres some pictures of the wheels kinda sitting on the studs, they wont go all the way on obviously. Time for adapters and fender flares

Makes me sad I want my LQ4 swap done.. NOW!!! lol Congratulations though, must be a great feeling!

My car has an LQ4 in it with bolt ons. Guess its when my wiring harness and computer decide to show up, it will be time to put the hurtin on some 255's for a little while

235 Fronts and Rear 255's bought Wheels also bought Thanks guys.

If I was running stock drums, 275/40-17, rolled fenders and GC coilovers. This stuff is driving me insane, I think ive looked just about everywhere for a setup like this and I cant find it with my offset and rim width and size. My thought is that my wheel is 18mm while barts is 19.125mm, while my tires would be the same size width wise, and my wheels would be 1/2" narrower. I know its going to be a tight tight fit if it works, I just want to know for sure if its doable before I order stuff.

Im sure you all have listened to my spammity spam and acquired the SEARCH or DIE mantra with me. Ive searched so long my head hurts, so now I turn to ye all. Some people have said I cannot run 17x9 +18 wheels with ground control coilovers and rolled fenders because they would stick out too far with 275's. Bartman - running 275's in the rear, with 1.125mm more offset in the rear than my setup, plus his wheels are a half inch wider, and 1 inch taller.. Someone school me and help me make the final decision on buying and running these wheels and tires.. tires I plan to run BTW are 235/40-17 fronts and 275/35-17 rear, ALTHOUGH I am willing to buy some 265's if my setup would be cutting it way too close. I havent ordered anything yet buy im getting ancy, and im dead ready:willy_nil

I read Bartmans write-up. He used a coil over setup. I want to spend like 400$ or less on a setup, and ground control coilover kit is 400$, but I am wanting shocks with that price too. The tokico's listing I listed come with coils and shocks. I just need like a outside diameter of the coil to know If that is going to hit the wheel. If the coil spring is the same size as a stock 280Z spring then I am just going to go with ground control coilovers, unless I can use the 30$ ebay coilovers.

My engine is in along with the tranny and the springs are holding it up pretty much exactly the same heighth as it sat with the original engine. I put my engine in with the truck pan first just to see how really bad it was... oil pan without the cars suspension messed with sits about 2" off the ground.. it would be gone in about 2 seconds. Got the LS1 F-body pan instead and it works mucho better.

Im mainly just looking to fit the biggest tire possible in the rear.. How big is the spring around? Same as stock? I Figured if they werent I could trim my coils and move the cup up to clear the tire.. possible or no?

Im planning on buying the 03 cobra wheels and some suspension goodies. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33586&viewitem=&item=200184819229&_trksid=p3907.m29 How much difference will there be with the space issue of the 9" wide wheels, keeping a decent sized tire in the fender well? Only reason I am not going with the tokicos yet is because I am not sure how much clearance I will gain compared to Ground Control coilovers.. Can anyone help me out on this one?