Slammed68

Actual suspension pieces before - during - after installation. Sorry too, I didn't really specify BTW - Thanks oz!

Just as an extra idea of what I am looking to obtain - here is Myrons car, and mine, I would like to make mine have his stance. Right now I just have - OH NO. Cut springs LOL.

Just looking to see some pictures of some of you guys' suspension setups. Pictures really do me justice when I am getting ready to tackle something. Im getting ready to section my struts, do camber plates, and some brake upgradeage... Post em if you got em!!

What would be great to find out is do I have the wrong yoke, or the wrong U joint.. I would think yoke, considering its letting the tranny seal leak and because it went on so easily..

I called him once, a long time ago, but he wanted me to send the driveshaft in I believe, and if I remember right he said something about him not dealing with assembling them.. This is all just what i remember from like over a year ago lol.. I never got around to sending it back in and just threw it in the car.. right now i drive with it every day, but with a leaking tranny and some unneeded vibes, id like to get it fixed. Im sure I have put around 5K miles on the car so far.

Bought a driveshaft from Johns Cars a while back when I built my car. I noticed right off the bat that the U joint had some play. I now daily drive the car and the vibration I get from that sounds dangerous and is now starting to drive me nuts.. It is the U-joint by the transmission yoke, I am pretty sure it is the side of the U joint that connects to the tranny yoke. It is like the U joint is not big enough, and it has about 1mm of side to side play. Any way to determine if the wrong U joint was used, or if the yoke is the wrong one? My rear tranny seal also does not seal and the tranny is from a 2004 GTO.. The yoke also slid on the splined shaft very easily.. Im beginning to think that I received the wrong transmission yoke? Any suggestions would definitely help! Thanks~!

Yesterday with a mild cam only LQ4, and launching from idle... 1.9 60 foot 8.0 1/8th @ 92mph 12.3 @ 114

I would definitely try to 500 ohm resistor in that 12V wire. What kind of voltage is it putting out? Try at idle AND at 2500 rpm. Most say that if you dont have that exciter wire 500 ohm'd then you will be seeing voltages that are wayyy too high and that WILL kill the alternator. If all else fails either put a prong in the plug you have now and use the 2 I have, or go pick up a tahoe, surburban, truck, whatever plug, and they have 2 wires like mine. I chased problems for a very long time and wiring it up like this fixed everything.

There is definitely supposed to be a resistor in-line with the exciter wire. I had a problem recently when I bought a reman' alternator, the thing WOULD NOT charge at all!! It was putting out like .233 volts and sending voltage back through the chassis.. crazy stuff! My Exciter wire had the 12 volt to 500ohm resistor, and was utilizing the #3 prong in the plug I believe.. It ended up being that I had to run a straight 12v to the #1 or #2.. cant remember right now... prong and then it charged fine, didn't drain my battery, and didn't backfeed voltage into my chassis anymore. So I actually have 2 wires hooked up to that plug-in. Has something to do with truck alt vs. camaro/vette alt... Hope this helps you! I have heard of a lot of stories about people burning up alternators because they dont have the exciter wires wired up correctly.. As a matter of fact, here is a picture to show you how mine works. Red wire is the one with the 500 ohm resistor.

You will need some adapters to make these wheels work. I have them in like new condition if you would like to purchase them. Here are what they looked like while I had them. They were the 03 Cobra replicas though, but they are the exact same lug pattern as the R's And here is how close the offset is to being right on the ZG flares... PM me if you would like to buy the adapters.

235/40-17 front 255/40-17 rear

Rota RB-R's Went with the royal bronze.. I still need suspension REALLY bad, but I am ordering it within the next few weeks.

White with a big motor.. what? They need to stop looking at my stuff Sounds like someone is sneaking around Indiana

..... Here's my LQ4 swapped Z.. 1. Year of motor/mods: 2002 LQ4 6.0 - LS1 intake, sand. headers, lightweight flywheel, RAM lvl3HD clutch, B&M shifter, tune. 2. Tranny: 04 GTO T56 3. Kit used or explanation of your custom mounts: JCI 4. Any special accessories or parts needed for the swap, including fuel, wiring, etc.: Nothing too special. 5. Date you started on the project, date finished: October 2007 start, finished = never 6. Other car mods (suspension, brakes, etc.) Still needing suspension, Rota RB-R's on the way!

LS3 front accessories seem to be located farther inward. Looks like its time for some fab work. Or just switch me motors, mines ready to go

Flywheel is great! I did have one little epidimic where the clutch was grabbing way too fast for a short while, kinda like there was no in between. Not sure if that was the clutch, master cylinder - because mine is pretty big..., or the flywheel surface. Either way so far its been good and worth the savings. Watch in one of the cobra vids, you can just tell how HARD the car INSTANTLY snaps.. its pretty viscous how quick it comes alive compared to say a 6 speed corvette - camaro

When the car is garage status and not ready to come out... permanantly.. thats kinda how everyones hatch area looks im pretty sure

2003 Termi Cobra - pulley - tune - intake - full exhaust... Laid down 460 rwhp and 480 rwtq.. This was when my swap was completely stock, no performance mods at all.. Next is a couple of a 2001 C5 vette... stock with an auto.. kid was being ultra cocky towards me on my bike, so i told him to come over to my place and run my 31 year old car.. Toyed with this guy soooo hard.. Here is an 02 Vette, 6 speed with exhaust.. You can hear and see my car fall back on the get go because of something computer related.. I dont know what it was, but it completely shut off, then CAME ALIVE!! haha it was pretty crazy.. So now that everyones ears hurt.. here are a couple of the new 3" exhaust with Dynomax bullet and a Dynomax muffler.. Enjoy

One is enough to keep my pockets empty... lol

2700 exactly with nobody in it and full interior. 77 280Z - Cobra Rep 17x9 wheels LQ4 - T56

Hey, im the guy with the LQ4 and F1 racing flywheel. So far, after probably 500 or so miles that I have put on the car since I got the swap done, the clutch has felt fine, the flywheel hasn't given me any problems, and if I were to give you an opinion on wether to buy one or not for the money savings, I would definitely say go for it! Look it up on youtube, I believe my video of it should still be on there.

I went with the Texas Speed 228R for everyday driveability and a nice smooth lope. You can definitely tell its cammed though. Made quite the bit of difference in power. I set my rev limiter to 6500 on the LQ4 6.0 with ARP rod bolts and the new 918 "bee-hive" springs. These engines definitely keep on pulling all the way to 7K.

Anybody know why? Fuel just purges out of the vent whenever I really get on it.. also if I use a gas cap, the tank for some reason pressurizes and shoots fuel out of that vent? Anyone know whats going on?

18 lbs with stock turbo, thats maxed out. Its got quite a bit of smaller things done to it though. It dynoed 295whp and 325tq..

Yeah, theyre for sale along with the adapters.. want to buy them?