thedarkie

Why in the WORLD would you walk away from a guaranteed profit like that 911? I find it hard to believe that stuff goes that cheap... that's like being handed $10,000 in cash for nothing.

I was just at their shop several weeks ago... good people, good shop, tons of awesome Zs going in and out of there, and parked around the building. The owner was a pleasant guy to deal with, if that makes any difference to your decision.

Yep the cell phone in the ashtray is a good indicator. I didn't have mine shut down, but the ashtray was unpleasantly hot. Now it's just warm. I kinda wish I had just done the wrap first before also doing the reflective adhesive mat; something tells me that the wrap is responsible for most of the improvement.

Yep, drove the car a few times since and in a bit of traffic and I can say there's a noticeable improvement. The tunnel and ashtray used to be hot to the touch, they're now "warm". If access was easier or I spent more time wrapping even more exhaust and insulating the entire tunnel, it would be even better. But for the work done, I think this is just enough to keep my ass from frying completely on hot days. I basically wrapped both exhausts from the header to behind the seats, as that's where they're closest to the body. I put adhesive mat about 10" high into the tunnel, so the top of the tunnel around the transmission is still bare. Tight spot. The self-adhesive heat shield from DEI was kinda a let down.. it didn't adhere too well on anything but a perfectly smooth surface. I think I'll have to go back under with some spray adhesive to finish the job, which is what I should've used in the first place. Live and learn.

I wrapped the sections of exhaust and applied an adhesive heat mat to the tunnel. I'll update with my results when I drive the car in a few days.

Can anyone recommend a product? I found this in an old thread, but would like other suggestions as well.. http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/insulating-materials/floor-tunnel-shield-ii-heat-sound-insulation Not concerned with sound deadening, just heat specifically. Also curious whether it's better to attack this from the interior side, or from under the car? Would exhaust wrap also be of much help?

How are the important parts? No massive rust hiding somewhere underneath? I suppose at $650 it wouldn't matter much... but maybe it was dumped for a reason. Hard to believe someone would let that go to a junkyard... do people really have no clue that they throw away several thousand dollars?

Bumping this for map light info.. is there a direct replacement bulb?

Gah, that's the thread I was talking about... his original site is down, thanks for linking to that new one!! Appreciate it.

1974 260z I tried taking my panel off to re-chrome the trims and it's brittle as all hell... broke in a few spots already. I did a search and found a thread for 2011 with a guy making CF panels, but his site is nowhere to be found any more (I guess it wasn't a profitable venture) Anyone have any ideas? Not too interested in replacing with another brittle original panel, really. And while we're on topic, any hints on removal?

Thanks all. I had put the installation on hold anyway due to time constraints but will be shopping for these bolts very soon! Thanks again

I'm replacing my solid front mount with an RT style mount, but I don't have the original bolts to fasten the RT mount to the tunnel. Can someone tell me what size/thread/length these are supposed to be? I had some that I thought would fit but they're not right at all... a quick answer will be greatly appreciated Thanks

The RX7 guys always said their engines were advertised as 1.3L, were sort of actually 2.6L, and wasted as much gas as a 5.0L. Just something to ponder I wouldn't give a damn about mileage, personally. Throw a mean 20B into that thing and push for a reliable 500whp

20B would be incredible.. not sure how costly they are (5k+ no question). The 4-rotor is in another realm altogether, that would be a very expensive build probably.

Read the top thread, you can buy mounting kits for a 302, and you'll probably wanna use a T5 transmission. If you go carb'd, there's little in the way of wiring other than getting the stock gauges to work. Like Mike said- read read and read some more. All the info is already here. For the exhaust you basically have to have a custom one built... should be able to get that done for $700-1000 in stainless. As for mileage, that's completely down to the choice of motor and how you drive it. I can't tell you how my 306 with a 670cfm carb does because my speedo is broken, but it's definitely not an ecomony car. Older V8s tend to be pigs, especially when carbureted..

Great build and a sweet ride- good on you for not selling it, you'd probably regret it. For informational purposes though: I bought my 74 with a carb'd 302 swap (fresh build, relatively mild but has plenty of performance goodies on it) for just shy of 11k last fall, and that was for a car that had a rotisserie restoration and fresh paint just 2 years ago. R200 diff, arizona z car coilover suspension and rear brakes, newly built T5 trans, panasport wheels, etc etc. It's not a show car, but its quite well built and sorted. You have to find the RIGHT person at the RIGHT time to sell a project like yours, and even then you should jump for joy if someone coughs up 15k! 10 is what I would've guessed you would receive offers at.

The factory clips are u-channel metal things about 1.5-2" in length, correct? Curiousity: are you able to remove them with relative ease or are they a complete bitch to get out? I've had to access my shifter at least 4 times in the past month for various reasons and I got sick of lifting the entire console, so I squeezed the clips out one by one from above, but putting them back is another matter altogether.... they're VERY tight.

Yeah I realized that after looking at the technoversions site, though they offer the mount in a configuration that replaces the stock bottom mount entirely. Alas, as per original post, I already have an Arizona Z car mount and my question remains if lowering the nose of the diff by about 1/4" will make a big difference or if things will still be okay. Seeing as I already have the rigid front mount, I may be better advised to also just get a billet mustache bar and call it a day. Adding the RT mount to my Arizona Z Car mount doesn't sound like it would be beneficial at all, except as an additional stop. (thanks for the pdf link, reading it now)

Thanks for your reply. I too saw the discussions of front mount failures due to the rear flexing. With that in mind, it seems that I should either look to buy an aftermarket billet mustache bar, or an RT style front mount. With the RT style mount being a 'one for all' design, and V8 swaps being inherently different from one to the next, does the angle of the diff have to be measured and adjusted during installation? How can it be a bolt-in affair, unless the tolerance -/+ 1/4"-1/2" just isn't all that important? That's my original question anyway: how much does 1/4" up or down on the nose of the diff really matter?

The front mount is from AZCar, similar in design to this one:

Hey guys, this might be a rudimentary question.. or maybe not. I've got a V8 with a T5 swap, custom driveshaft and an R200 diff. This was all done by the previous owner. He mounted the front of the diff on a rubber isolator about 1/4" thick sandwiched between two washers.. the rubbers are cracked and ripped, and I believe Im getting a clunk from this area because of this setup. My question is: if I get rid of the rubbers do I have to make up the lost height? How important is the 1/8" to 1/4" difference if I just ditch the rubbers and bolt the diff back down onto the washers (or even ditch the washers entirely)? I've never dealt with driveline stuff and I dont know how this change in angle/height will affect it. Is this variable something thats measured and accounted for when building and installing the driveshaft? Thanks for your feedback

The Duratec is an interesting choice.. I'd love to see that swap. They're all aluminum and relatively light weight, not to mention you can probably tuck it all the way behind the front axle. I believe the engine is only around 370lbs..

How do those exhaust manifolds connect? Haven't seen a turbo setup like that before..

As funny as it might be, maybe the fact that you're dumping directly under the middle of the car is why the smell isn't creeping back inside. That, or your car is incredibly well sealed? Interesting nonetheless. You might have discovered a simple solution to ridding ourselves of the stink!

^ do a search, tons of threads