takayuki

Your car is pretty damn nice! well done!

Most likely 1\8" British pipe thread. Just like the oil pressure sending units

Thanks! Little update. I had my Kameari full exhaust mounted and installed. For some reason, the exhaust was 1" too long, had to have a local shop shop and modify the rear section to make it fit. I ended up doing the supra style angled look. A short video of my exhaust and engine sounds. Didn't want to rev it up too much because engine was still cold. https://youtu.be/cX8HypgviK0

^ thanks guys! onto some more updates, Installed stock driveshaft for now. Will upgrade later...funds are starting to dry up! However, I used some Kameari chromoly drive shaft bolts. Hooked up coolant hoses, ran fuel lines, made up spark plug wires. I still need to tidy up a few things.. Installed Kameari headers. Boy.... this header is nice and big, but it's causing a lot of fitment issues with other components. Installed Jenvy ITB's on TWM intake manifold. Engine with air horns and heat shield. I really wanted to install an ITG 1 piece air filter element, but the headers won't allow it.... dammit.. Air filter socks on order.. Don't worry, valve cover will be replaced with a nicer one once I get everything sorted out. AND.... she's up and running for the first time in 4 years! video to come. Huge sigh of relief! My truck really dwarfs the car.... holy moly and it was all warm and fuzzy until I discovered a crack in my what used to be a crack free dash!!! I left the car out in the hot sun for 2 hours while I cleaned out the garage.... Ughhhhhhh! Gonna get a dash carpet for now... deal with that later.

Finally got to test this brake setup from Nigel. I'm happy to report that it works great.

I have the truck lite LED's as well. They will fit the stock buckets.

Prepped engine for install. Had this beauty, Kameari 45mm headers ceramic coated... such a shame. No choice because the clearance from the intake manifold to the header is next to nil. forgot to post this, I had a ron tyler diff mount, but opted for the SW motorsport front diff mount. Installed flywheel and clutch I was going to install the engine and the transmission together, but with no help available at the time, I decided to do the install by myself. Installed intake and exhaust manifolds. Also, installed 3 row aluminum rad and fan package from MSA. Mishimoto Rad hoses used. I can officially say, my steering shaft mod worked! Clears engine and exhaust manifolds!

I have a early 260z. here are some photos that I took: Not a fair comparison since I didn't take the picture from the exact same spot. But as you can see, these are way brighter than stock and probably just as bright as HID's.\ low beam high beam This is where I spliced into to install the relay. I opted to go with this setup because it's a lot more simple than HID's. No ballasts, no addition of fuses, no need to add wires. Keeps it more Tidy. Just had to add one relay. It draws 1.8amps per headlight on low beams and 3.6amps on high beams. A lot easier on your electrical system.

I just installed the truck lite led headlight as well. If the 240z wiring Is like my 260z, you will need to rewire your headlight wiring with a 5 pole relay to properly make it work.

Back on track.... after about 1.5month hiatus. Damn vacations! lol Installed wolfcreek CV axles Bled the brakes with my motive bleeder! Awsome tool. And I'm happy to report that no fluid leaks from the brake system.. so far And the past week, I spent the entire time rewiring the car. Since I am going fuel injection, I integrated the existing harness with the new. At the same time, I painstakingly removed all unnecessary wiring (stupid interlock crap!). Upgraded fusible links with Maxi fuse. Then, relocated fuses to underneath the battery I shaved the antenna so I got this cheap Ebay hidden antenna. It works quite well actually! Brand new reproduction washer fluid tank Then I splurged with this. Truck lite 7" LED headlamps. AWSOME product. I previously had Dapper HID light kit, but I wasn't very happy with all the ballast and components it had. Too much parts. With this light, it just plugs straight into the socket. But you need to modify the wiring harness to make the light work properly. Apparently s30's light wiring is not the same as modern day wiring. The best thing about these lights is that it draws MAX 3.6amps per headlight. Very easy on your electrical system. I think at low beams it draws only 1.8amps per headlight. sticks out a little bit more than a stock headlight but not too bad. I took some terrible pictures to compare the light patten. Obviously better than stock. Low beam High beam I integrated a 5 pole relay to the engine harness to make the light work properly. This was the hardest part. Since there were no writeups, I had to figure it out myself. The other loose wires are for my electric fans, which I will finish once the radiator is in the car. I'm very happy that I didn't set off any electrical fires on the car. As matter of fact, everything works on the car! There were things that did't before.

It was more of a economical choice. I was feeling cheap that day. All of these AN fittings just add up in $$$. But now that I look at it again, I think I'm going to change it to braided hosing. LOL.

started plumbing some of my fuel system. Since I am going EFI, the stock unbaffled fuel tank will probably not work out too well. I did a lot of searching on the internet for a bolt in solution. I found this neat surgetank with an internal bosch 044 fuel pump inside. It's compact, and it has many port for plumbing options. http://store.034motorsport.com/fully-enclosed-fp34-044-fuel-surge-tank.html Mounted the surge tank in the spare tire area.. I still need to wire this up. For a lift pump to the surge tank, I was looking for something that was reliable, cheap, compact, and adequate output. I went with this Facet solid state fuel pump. 32GPM flow at 4-7psi. Found it on a website that specialized for aircraft parts. If they use it on a airplane, it must be reliable! The box said it will last 4 to 5 times more than a conventional fuel pump. Mounted the fuel pump with vibration mounts along with a 100micron Holley pre filter. Fit's perfect on the stock fuel pump mounting bracket! And then installed underneath. Still need to plumb the outlet line from the fuel pump to the surge tank. I ran out of fittings. Gotta buy more...These fittings are adding up in $$$$ I also decided to invest in some AN fitting wrenches.... My regular wrenches are destroying the finish on the fittings.....sigh.. always learning the hard way.

I went through the same thing with my fuel tank. I had the tank cleaned and sealed at a radiator shop, had them chop off the nipples and solder the AN bungs. Had the entire tank coated with Line-x. Turned out pretty good.

I got some pleasant news from Rebello today. My engine is completed. 3.35L L28 stroker with Jenvey ITB's on 91 octane street tune. Not too shabby at all a video to boot! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6nu8j-ES_4&feature=youtu.be

My '74 260z project. Apologize for the poor picture quality

Got more work done on days off Turns out, I SUCK at interior vinyl related stuff! I miscalculated some of the cuts so I ended up with some wrinkles... Ugh.. a project for another time down the road i guess! LOL One of my good finds in my journey of looking for looking for parts. NOS door seals! got it for $80/pair from a local guy who found them in a storage locker. Smoked JDM tail lights. can't really tell lol. Bezel painted with PPG hot rod satin black Pedal box assembly powdercoated. new pedal bushings and pedal pads Finished up brake lines by making the lines that goes from the proportioning valve to the back of the car. Also, installed my custom woodward steering shaft assembly. Fit's surprisingly well considering I measured everything without a car. Clears the motormount by 1/8". The only thing I'm really worried about, will it clear my Kameari headers?? I guess I will find out once i get my engine back from rebello. Installed my crack free dash! Along with speedhut gauges. I still need to figure out where to mount my speedhut volt, oil temp gauge. I will also need to eventually figure out where to put a wideband gauge too... swapped speedo to the metric JDM one... because it makes more sense up here in canada. For the time being, I will be using a manual tranny from a '83zx N/A. Took a break from other stuff on the car and put some goodies on the transmission. Kameari heavy duty clutch slave cylinder and Kameari heavy duty clutch fork. Top one is kameari and bottom is the stock unit. Noticeably beefier AND then this happened... I wanna kill myself!! ughhhhh it's a big one too... I talked to my bodyshop and he said he'll most likely have to repaint the 1/4 panel and blend everything together.. F*&*&$*&*%&*$&* Good thing I have to go to work... I'll need a few days to recover from this.

I am using 3/16" cunifer brake lines that I purchased from fedhillusa.com. They are quite easy to bend with your hands no problem. I would recommend getting a tube straightener if you want a better look since the lines come in a coil. If you try to straighten them by hand, it will look like poo. I have braided hoses for the brake calipers, but that's about it. I personally, wouldn't use steel braided hoses for the whole brake system because it's less abrasion resistant and you might experience more of a mushy brake pedal feel. I think that braided hoses will expand more under pressure than hard lines.

Thanks for the kind words guys! Good to see other edmontonians The bodyshop i used was redline custom autobody in st.albert

Plumbed brake lines for my first time. Not show quality bends but not too terrible either. lol I ran out of tubing so I couldn't do the line that runs from the front to back. Installed rear suspension (not pictured) and tested fitted rear wheels. I'm going to have to get the rear tires remounted and balanced because one of the stick-on wheel weights is hitting my rear brakes. I will take more pictures next time... sorta got lazy

I would like one as well. I am from canada so I'm assuming I will have to pay a bit more. I pm'd you my info

I would like to bump this old thread for a related question. I am wondering if anyone can recommend what I should use for a lift pump Here is some info about my car approximately 340hp 3.35L stroked L28 built by rebello It's fuel injected This is what I have for a surge tank http://store.034motorsport.com/fully-enclosed-fp34-044-fuel-surge-tank.html It has a internal bosch 044 fuel pump inside which puts out 80 gph. The enclosure holds about 1 Liter. I will be running the return line back to the surge tank. I have this fuel pump in mind to use as a lift pump to feed the surge tank. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NISMO-Electric-Fuel-Pump-DATSUN-510-1200-240Z-B10-280Z-B110-S110-120Y-Nissan-/221407112643 The pump puts out about 20GPH Think it's enough? Or should I aim for a pump with more flow? Thanks!

If anyone has one for sale, please send me a pm with asking price. Thank you

Installed Brake booster, my rebuilt steering rack. Finally installed my front suspension after having the parts around for a few years. Coil over suspension with DP racing camber plates, Courtesy of John Coffey, when he used to run Betamotorsports. TTT LCA and tension rods, AZC bump steer spacer/steering knuckle, and Modern motorsports extreme 13" big brake kit. Test fit my watanabe R-type This is my first resto project. It's amazing how you get held up when you are missing hardware. I bought a hardware kit from http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/ . It's not that great. It has some unique bolts, but for the most part, I was better off buying and putting together my own stuff. So I did! Bought some new hardware from clips and fasteners and belmetric. Still waiting for my engine... Rebello is busy.... Sort of sucks because I need to have my engine to figure out some fuel line routing.

What kind of setup did you get?