AkumaNoZeta

I downloaded the OptimumK V1.1 Demo from OptimumG.com and currently learning how to use that. Is WinGeo about the same or better than this program?

I've already read Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams and Race And Rally Car Source Book by Allan Staniforth and I ordered Competition Car Suspensions by Allan Staniforth before this thread came about (but its on back order sadly). And The Nick, did you read this book and use the software? Is it worth the $90-$120?

Thats trully amazing. I always thought of it being super brittle and easily shattered.

Well, I'm open to people having non-Z car projects on this forum because they can still serve as a muse for other people finding ideas for their Zs. But this question would be better off first by searching because a lot of people here ask for places to get JDM engines from (jdmtigerjapanese.com is my personal favorite) or at least asked in the 4 Cylinder or Other Engines section on this forum.

You could get the a flexible urethane one and thing have radiator ducting and a splitter made from sheets of aluminum to keep it from sagging and not to mention greatly improve aero. And Drift Inertia, that's a lot of CF, did it really bounce the car back after hitting curbs? How hard were they hit and how hard did they bounce back?

I don't know about chips but I'm sure it won't sag because isn't carbon fiber a replacement for steel in certain applications? The chassis of an F1 car is carbon fiber, no? But personally even though I LOVE the look of CF I don't want to have any of it (at least not showing) on my car because in my mind that's just telling walker-bys "I'm very expensive, break my window to see whats inside" lol. Just my personal opinion though, I'm paranoid of things like that because of the stories I hear and how so many teens these days do dumb things.

Get a propane torch and turn it on (but dont light it) turn the key on (sounds like you'll need someone to play with the throttle so it doesn't die) and then move the propane around and the vacuum leak will suck in the propane and cause the RPMs to rise...be a little more difficult if you have to play with the throttle at the same time to keep it running though...You could just look around for unplugged hoses or vacuum ports with no caps on it because I know how much cleaner the AZC intake makes things and you shouldn't have any problems finding those.

You know what? I thought I had a good grasp on suspension designs before I started looking at the other posts there, now I realize how far behind I really am. I love it though, I have so much more reading to do...I wish I had the money to buy this book http://www.amazon.com/Race-Car-Vehicle-Dynamics-R146/dp/1560915269/ref=pd_sim_b_6

I think I get it. Like if you run the cantilever set up parallel to the chassis instead of perpendicular like they did on that 240, then the mounting points of the springs will be closer to each other and therefore have less of the chassis itself being affected?

What's spring-to-spring chassis length?

From my point of view, that's just done to look cool and doesn't actually improve anything. The reason I see it being done to open-wheel race cars is to get the shocks and springs out of the air to reduce aerodynamic drag. But it does look cool.

Any new update?

I'm subscribing too, it's been a while since we've had a good thread in this section of the forum

I'm looking forward to reading that thread.

Like what Factory Five has on there Type 65 Coupe? I thought about that too but thought it would fairly obvious to would-be theives and just scream "Hey, you can easily get inside me"...after that thought I kinda had the idea of having it hinged either on the top or bottom. And now a new idea, have a little handle on the top (nothing fancy) so you can manually slide it into the door and then back up again to a locking mechanism. It would still look like a normal window and you can lower and raise it faster than any electrical one.

I was gonna assume that it should be designed with 3" of bump in mind as an average figure right? I had a little sketch with the size tires I was planning but I can't seem to find it. I don't remember exactly the diameter. What I was thinking is since I'm gonna do a double wishbone suspension then I can get the lengths of the arms and proper angels to get the camber gain and roll center height I want and make sure the roll center stays the same height during suspension travel. As far as the ride height that needs to be set so the tire doesn't hit the fenders, that would just be changing the mounting location on the chassis. That's just what I've been able to think about, I am very aware that I am forgetting other factors that others can tell me about.

That looks like a very good class. But alas, I don't have $500 for that. I figure for now I'll just read How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems and then invest in that class when I get closer to actually being able to tune a car.

I can't find the book EFI 101. Do you have a link to where I can buy it? I couldn't find it at Amazon or Barnes and Noble.

Wow, I didn't realize how much better the Taurus fans are. I guess I need to find a junkyard, lol.

Easy. Motor mounts, tranny mount, and the plumbing required for a EFI engine. It would be a lot easier than the somewhat common SR20DET swap because you don't have all that turbo stuff to worry about.

I don't see a need for power locks, but power windows are nice, and I have to have AC in my car eventually. I was thinking about making some fiberglass doors with lexan windows permanently attached so there's no weight of the glass or mechanicals of the windows and then I had a thought "What if I have to pay for a toll road or I go through a drive thru?" lol. I don't smoke or anything so if I have AC then the only reason I would ever roll down my windows was if I had to do some kind of transaction through it.

That seems pretty decent, that stuff just fell right off.

Anything past 90 degrees is WAY too much. I normally hear around 5-7 degrees on fast cars, and I've heard some drag racers like closer to 10 degrees because it helps with the straight line stability.

What kind of CFMs should be ideal?

Bringing up a dead post with a question of mine. This was the only thread I found in a search so forgive me if it's been asked. What about these fans? http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=15&osCsid=83b4e46ed87b2e0f19ee037e30c9e3a7 They're slim and are all under $30. Are they worth it? I've never seen electric fans unused for that cheap before.