AkumaNoZeta

I've been asking around for maximum track width measurement with the Subtle Z flares (not from the usual center of tire to center of tire, but outside of tire to outside of tire). I got the answer of 66 inches on the rear thanks to 74_5.0L_Z and estimated .5-1" wider on the front. Does anybody have the exact measurment for the front though? I want to know so I can start designing my suspension.

On that article, they have what looks like a computer engineered model of the Evo with the airflow speed shown with CFD. In other articles here I've read of individuals using that same software for seeing the airflow of different plenum designs, couldn't they use that same software for these threads as well?

I bought that ignition box from menzzer37 and June 20th I should be back in Arkansas to put it on and be able to update on the "no run" status of my car from there. What about the distributor though? The previous owner said the L28 was from a 75' so I'm wondering if the distributors are different between 74' and 75' and whether they kept the 75' one on the L28 or put on the 74' one since they kept the carburetors from the 74' instead of the EFI. I took off the cap and remember how the inside of it looked so if they are different and if someone can post pics of the differences I would greatly appreciate it. I got more questions, but I'm not gonna ask them now. I'm gonna search more on this site to see if I can find the answers.

When I first got inside mine I was surprised. It actually had that new car smell to it, pretty nice for a 35 year old car. lol

I did some ebay surfing. Is this the right part? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ignition-Control-Module-1975-77-Nissan-240Z-260Z-280Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a1Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem27a85fcb35QQitemZ170328574773QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Oh, so the 280Z and 260Z ones are the same? I thought there may have been a difference because of the switch from carbs to EFI.

Why didn't I think of printing it out? Now I feel really dumb. The reason I was going for another way to calculate the fuel requirements is because I was shooting for an overall efficiency, not the highest horsepower. But I understand now.

Oh yeah, my main concern is if my 260Z does have a factory ignition box. How could I test it? Could I just wire it out like I asked in the thread link I posted or would I be better off buying another one? Other than that I dont know anything else I could do besides making sure the coils I have are still good and the last things it could be would either a loose or broken connection at or in the ignition switch, or the distributor.

I was gonna restate my problem but here's a link to the thread I started for it a couple months ago that died http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=146584 I figured asking here would be better since its the diagnostic thread. I'll be going back home June 20th to work on it and hopefully getting it running but I'll only have a week to be there so I would like to get anything I need beforehand so I dont have to wait for shipping or anything.

I double that notion

From my understanding a properly set up Pro 4-Link suspension (like on drag cars) cause brake hop because while they're good and keeping the axle housing from rotating upwards under acceleration, it doesn't do too good at keeping it from rotating downwards from braking. I was thinking that maybe a 5th link at the top of the housing going to the chassis at the correct angle could fix that but that would take some time to design so that the separate arc doesn't bind the suspension. Then I had the thought of using a shock absorber to do the idea of that 5th link. Have the rebound of the shock really soft to be more compliant to the suspension travel but the bump really stiff to prevent the axle housing rotation problem. But if the bump is as stiff as it needs to on the fifth link/shock then that would probably interfere with the suspension travel too. So I guess I still got some thinking to do. This isn't for any project or anything, just thinking out loud and figure I would share. I figure that if you can prevent the brake hop then you could run a Pro 4-Link on a car that actually takes corners and have that great bite of traction on corner exits.

I really wish I could help. Personally I cant see anything in the suspension causing it, but I'm still technically a newb when it comes to cars so someone smarter should chime in. The only thing I could think of causing it would be a driveline or brake problem and I dont know what would cause the rear brakes to apply by themselves at 25mph either besides a little green gremlin with devil horns living under your floorboards and constantly pulling your e-brake cable, lol.

I found this picture, not sure how helpful it would be for a S30 though since its for a 510

So what are you gonna do with the VQ?

How does it jerk? Like a front to back kind of jerk or does it go from side to side?

I find that interesting, I also think its unusual no one replied to this last year.

I am a Mustang owner but I didn't take offense. I know I'm stupid, but I don't act like I know everythig or tell everybody my car is the fastest around...in fact I tell people its a rust bucket with a stock 2.3 ltr, and you'd be surprised how many people actually believe it. But the know it all attitude with the self-deciet of thinking their car is the fastest around isn't just a Mustang thing, I've noticed it with all kinds of different vehicle owners so I take it as a "general public" thing instead of accusing a certain group of it. One of the reasons I love being on this forum 24/7 is because the people here dont have that attitude. The kind people here are open minded and very informed.

The air conditioner is one of the reasons I cant afford anything else. But I got some birthday money (first birthday present I got in over a decade, lol) so I can now. I'll be going to the store after school now.

I don't like the show, but I have a friend that loves it so I've seen a few episodes. To me, the fact that they let another person have so many car leads than the other is completely wrong. The way I see it, you race to see if your car is faster. End of story. You shouldn't be like "I can beat you if you let me start 50 feet in front of you"

And I always thought of them as heavy pigs because they came from the factory at what? 3300lbs? When I looked at the picture of the SR in your engine bay my jaw dropped because I couldn't believe how much extra room there was in there, I really like that.

I'd like to see wieght figures of the car after its built. Theres a 350Z in a DSport magazine I had that said they were able to lighten it to around 2500 lbs if I remember right. I don't remember if it still had the VQ or whatever.

Oh, now that makes sense. I wasn't thinking about it like that. I was wondering why it was cold when I'm sitting in front of it but then you go anywhere else in my room its hot. Whenever I get my next check I'll be going to get a cord now. I have a nasty habit of when I get my checks I usually spend it on either car parts or books.

Well, I have about 75 cents in pennies right now. Thats the biggest reason.

I would have ran it too. Either way you lose and the other person gets your car so you might as well run it so its kinda like a farewell to the car you put so much time and money in, and also so you give your competition a peice of s**t instead of a race-ready car.

I just bought a window mount air conditioner for my bedroom but the cord doesn't reach the outlet and I dont have any extension cords or a surge protector or anything like that to make it reach so I just have it on my table. At first I thought this was a cool idea because it will just keep circulating the air making it colder and colder but a friend of mine said that it will freeze up and kill it. Is she right?