AkumaNoZeta

I've heard more horror stories about chains breaking than belts. But I've never had experience with either breaking. From what I understand the stock SR stroke/bore will make and survive high RPMs but have the oversquare, bigger bore with less stroke, makes it more rev happy and rev quicker. I too had a fasination about making a high RPM SR20DET until I was informed about the CA18DET and the more I read about it the more I liked it and I now find that as a better engine for my personal tastes. If you were really set on doing it, what I would do is find out the maximum bore you can safely have in the SR block and get a custom crank made if you still want it more oversquared. It doesn't have to be by a lot, just a little oversquare is good. For durability sakes I would think a custom crank without boring out the block would be better so you have more cylinder walls to keep everything from exploding and you would have more walls so you can bore it out if you find its ovaled or hourglassed when you rebuild it in the future.

I'm a kind of guy that likes to take that path least traveled. I like the SR and KA but EVERYbody is doing them. I like the CA because its has revability that the other two dont, I'm not just talking about the head either. It's an oversquare bore which makes it into a great revver. The thing I really love about the CA is that its not so popular, you dont see every Nissan with one like you do with the SR and KA. But the CA is still popular enough to prove itself a great little engine. I mean, its not called "the mini RB" for nothing

Wow. So all these years of hearing "steel on steel = ungodly awful ride" was wrong? This opens up a whole new realm of supsension options for me. Thank you, I was thinking I would have to stick with bushings to keep a daily-able ride.

I started reading Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams today and besides the fact that the book seems to be a little dated he said that urathane bushings had a short life expectacy which I guess would make sense for the time he's in but are they better now since every bushing kit seems to use them? Or are polyurathane and urathane bushing different? He also said that having spherical bearings and heim joints only increase ride harshness the same amount as adding 5 PSI of air into tires and the only real complaint about them was the road noise. Now is this true? I've always thought that the harshness of having a completely solid suspension was supposed to be back-breaking like when James May was driving that Aston Martin race car around Europe in the quest for the ultimate driving road.

Oh, ok. Thats what I kinda expect from a clutch though. I dont know what I was thinking, the only way my description would have made any sense is if the engine was in dire need of a tune up/rebuild or if it was just like a 3 cylinder Geo engine trying to push a 4000 lb car I guess.

You could get something like a 1/16th inch TIG welding wire and attatch it somewhere on the chassis and then have a rubber grommet put on it and something connected to the LCA or strut tube for the grommet to sit against. Then run the car and the grommet will stay at the highest position it was pushed to and that would show how much bump you've had in the run. I know its hard to visualize so this will kinda show what I mean http://www.resuspension.com/Travel-Indicator-for-Coil-Over-p-15554.html I don't think you could do it on the strut tube because its angled so you wouldn't get an accurate measurement. Having it come straight down and the thing the pushes the rubber grommet up on the LCA and then just do some math because of the length of the arm. I guess you could just do it on the strut tube and do the math to translate it from the angle to a vertical measurement

What do you mean that "small smooth amouts of throttle are not an option"? Like if you try to roll on the throttle for a slow, steady acceleration it kinda gets like...boggy? BTW, no offense but I think its fairly easy to make a car illegal in Cali. Arkansas doesn't have any emissions or inspections, at least none I have ever had to deal with. As long as your car doesn't make the police scared that you're faster than them, they dont bother you. They didn't even bother my friend with his open headers SBC that is pretty loud to say the least

HOLY HEARTATTACK!!!! I have support...I'm not used to that, lol. And I did had the same problem with the L, I had to order a water pump and had to wait for it to be shipped in. Same thing with ignition coil. I'll gladly get started on building the CA right now. Ummmm, could you loan me a couple thousand? lol, Just kidding but yeah I don't have the funds for anything yet. I'm still in the planning and designing stage.

Well, if the light flywheel will cause the engine to stall I would want to do it but if modulation (if refering to ease of pushing the pedal) I dont think I would have a problem given the hydraulic clutch set up. Everything else is just getting the friction point down in my opinion.

I dont understand where the extra maintenance would come from, thats why I started this thread. They are rated for 700 lb-ft of torque and I say at absolute best I would have only like 300 so I think that one of these would last a VERY long time. I just want the extra effiency of the less rotational mass and moment of inertia. Anybody have any idea on prices? I cant find them on the site. Also I didn't see the CA on the application list but I'm sure a custom flywheel could be made to incorporate it, right?

I'm still convinced on the CA18DET, because they're cheap and I dont have any problems at all finding any part for them. They did have an American cousin that you can exchange parts with, the 87-90 Pulsar NX. Just when it comes the time to buy it, I would have to make sure it has the single inlet ports instead of the dual ones like mentioned above. I'm not too concerned about have 500 horsepower. The CA comes 166 stock, which is close to the Datsun's L6 stock so I wouldn't be losing in performance per se by putting it in. And I want to build it for the mid to high end power I want, along with durability and reliability, and not gonna focus on "I want 500 horsepower". I'll be happy with 250 when it comes down to it. I'm not worried about big numbers because my friend wants to build a high horsepower Mustang using the engine and drivetrain from mine and putting it into a non-rusted 4-cylinder Stang so if I have the desire to do 0-100 in 2.5 seconds (exageration) I'll just drive that since it will be an "our" kinda thing. Both his 383 SBC S-10 and my Mustang are shared equally between us so we never get in fights like when you ask your dad to borrow the Corvette for a date so to speak. Plus, for a DD I rather have something low powered because that way when I get to drive the Mustang or S10 it would still be a lot of fun instead of being really boring because I'm used to a 500 hp 2500 Datsun, you know what I mean?Sorry about the rant, lol

Anybody have any experience with these? http://www.racingclutches.com/view.phtml?f_cat=Clutch+Units+%26+Parts%3A+4.5%22+Clutch+Units Are they strictly for race cars, too much for the street? I dont think difficulty of pushing in the clutch pedal would be a problem for me because I'm completely used to the one in my cable-operated Mustang while others who try to drive it have the hardest time trying to push it down. Of course that made feeling for the hydraulic one on the Z a little more difficult to control because it felt like pushing on an extra, extra soft pillow. You should have seen it when I tried left foot braking a couple times, now that was liable to give whip lash. lol I'm thinking more in regards of reliability, durability, and if they can be installed in anything else besides a small-block Chevy (CA18DET in particular)

I say your cat is trying to unlatch your hood to see what kind of set-up your running. He's the spy for your competition, keep an eye out.

Well, I was just asking because I want to run 16's but I dont know whats the biggest brake set-up (custom) that I can run in them. Oh, and sorry about hijacking your thread. Seeing your new brakes started a muse thing with me.

Hey, I found this on youtube and remembered about this thread, enjoy.

You replace the broken glass of the table, glass on the van/SUV/whatever it is, gets broken. You fix that one the glass on the Z gets broken, you fix that one the glass on the Subaru gets broken, you fix that one the window on your house gets broken, you fix that one all the glass on everything you own gets broken. Just go ahead and replace everything glass with lexan, plastic wrap, and duct tape. lol

Is there a rule of thumb that states like "the wheel must me 3" more in diameter than the rotor" or something like that?

Triangulated four link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6s88d2FbPE 3 link Watts Link

My dash has one of those covers glued on it over the old cracked one, previous owner installed it. I cant just cut out the metal frame and somehow just bolt the plastic dash to the car? I haven't looked under the dash or anything, and never taken a dash out of any car so forgive my lack of knowledge in this department. Is the metal frame a neccessity if keeping HVAC? Can the HVAC be put into the fiberglass dash without a frame? I'm sure guages are light enough to just be held up by the figerglass/plastic, right?

I always thought if you gutted the factory dash it would weigh just as much, or maybe a tiny bit more than a fiberglass one, is this not the case?

Videos of supsension travel are great things to learn from. Supspension travel of a strut suspension F1 Supsension http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mpw9nzj6sE0 Does that reduce unsprung wieght because the springs and shocks are attached to the chassis or does it increase it because now it has the weight of the fulcrums and stuff added to it? Closest thing to a SLA I could find Thats all I found for now, if you found any more good ones please post. I'll keep looking too.

I'm gonna do the opposite and to both sides of my car so I can keep an eye on my tread wear and tire inflation on those long cruises. Just cut out the firewall and fenderwells with a plasma cutter right? I bet I can do it with a can-opener. I'm only playing, lol. As for the finding tools thing, I found a vise-grip in my engine bay when I first got the car. Beat that!!! lol

Just say "screw the transmission" and have the driveshaft coming right out the clutch and just have direct drive like a super modified oval track car, lol.

Had to bring up this dead post saying I just watched Elfen Lied, all 14 episodes in one sitting and its the best show I've ever seen...so far. The only negative thing in it I saw was the fact the "horns" looked more like ears and reminded me of Inuyasha, lol.

When the baseball part came up I could have sworn you were gonna say it broke the table top you just replaced (probably would have been some homerun, lol) but you caught me by surprise and said the moonroof. Good thing about the shade though because I was starting to worried about everybody getting cut by falling glass.