AkumaNoZeta

The windsheild is a structual part of the unibody right? Would the Lexan be able to handle that kind of stress or do you pretty much need to have a full roll cage to take up the stress?

I have Sumitomo HTRZIIs on my Mustang and they're the stickest tires I've personally dealt with, the only previous tire experiences I had were the $60 Cooper Cobras. The grip from the Sumitomos is what finally made my rear sub-frame fracture open, the car is a rust bucket afterall. I was surprised how good they are on the wet roads, dont even try ice. I learned that the hard way, lol. Good treadwear considering I'm gone between Pennsylvania and Arkansas with them 3 times now with plenty of abuse. I still have tons of tread left, but to be honest the tread on the rear is half as high as the front because of how the car is driven. Also I haven't rotated the tires yet either, I should though. I like them but next time I buy tires I'm gonna try something else because I want to have a good taste of different things that are out there.

At this site they have a lot of heat and sound barriers http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=7 My question is in regard of where the heat barriers can be placed. I would like to have the heat from the engine isolated from the cockpit (of course) but I've never dealt with anything like this and wondering if it works if you place it inside the firwall (under the dash so to speak) or if it has to be on the outside of the firewall (closer to the engine)? Also, how good is this product http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=65 at isolating road noise and as a protective barrier such as an undercoating as they suggest? I was thinking of having the spray for under the car and on the inside having the floor and tunnel sheild stuff

Just for curiosities sake, instead of having it stiffer in the front or stiffer in the rear, what would it be like if you had the same spring rates all the way around?

Another thing is when the car did run for those 5 hours, when you had it in neutral the revs just kept building and building until you put it in gear and drive it again. I figured that was because the electric fuel pump was always on and over-fueling it but if that was the case it would just run a lot richer right? Not make it rev higher? Could this be a sign of the faulty ignition box?

Which in respect is a good amount for the Z. I have yet to decide what engine I want to run

Well, another point is that the SR20DET weighs the same as the NA L6 after its all said and done but with the SR20 you can get well over 500 horsepower while I doubt you could even get 500 from a NA L28. Also the SR20 would leave more room in the engine bay to work in and I dont really care for the intake and exhaust being on the same side like on the L6s

I never knew about these floor pans before, I was just gonna use plain plate for mine. How stiff would the car be using these floors and the replacement frame rails with subframe connectors compared to my previous idea of replacing the entire front frame with 2X3 rectangular tubing going all the way to the rear subframe? I know my idea would be stiffer but how much stiffer? In fact I just go ahead and buy the replacement frames and keep it that way until I actually start modding the car.

You're talking more detailed than I was. I said smaller engines in general, not just focused on the SR20DET. Such as the rotary or something. I want the MYT engine, wish I could find one of those.

I decided I'm gonna paint the Mustang, just a rattle can job. I'm gonna do something derived from the Panda Trueno and also put 2.3 Ltr. RUSTang on the back above the tail lights. Gonna buy the paint tomorrow.

What having the smaller engines in the Z does is reduce front end weight right? Making it from 50/50 weight distribution to like 46/54, right? Just an example, its probably actually closer to 49/51 in real life, that is besides the general overall reduction in weight.

From the manual it seems to be the "transistor type" distributor because it has the little starwheel thing. I've never really messed with distributors so its pretty much all new to me. After the car didn't start up with the Holley I got the same impression that the "mechanics" didn't know anything about SUs either

By the way, its a 260Z with a L28 that had the SUs and stuff from the L26 put on it. I believe it was a air conditioned model that had an AC delete if that matters, would that explain all the loose wires I see everywhere that dont seem to have a spot?

I haven't tested the compression but it ran for a total of 5 hours when I bought it (horrible I know). The plugs and wires were brand new and I didn't touch their order on the distributor because it ran the way it was before. Battery kept dying on me while I was driving it and found the altenator to be bad so I replaced that (water pump broke after hour 3 I think it was). I couldn't get it to start back up, my parents had it towed to the only shop that said they could work on a car like this (is it really that special? lol) The people at the shop adjusted the valves, put on a new starter, and told me the carburetors were bad Bought a Holley 2-barrell set-up that turned out to be junk after it was delivered so with lack of funds we just had the car towed to my aunt's house where it sat until I got the 4-barrell set-up. We put that all that on, fuel did squirt from accellerator pumps and did fill up the reservoirs I guess you can call them (not to good for terminology) Electric choke hooked to power source and worked Idle mixture screws screwed in all the way then backed out 1.5 turns as Holley recommends Floats weren't adjusted perfectly because car is sitting on a weird angle because of the hill but high enough to keep fuel in the reservoirs. I was hoping it to start so I could drive it to a level surface to set them Not sure was PSI of fuel pressure because I have it going from the mechanical fuel pump on the block and I don't have a guage or anything...it seems to stay fuel of fuel and not overloading it and having fuel come out the vents, then again it only turns like 500 RPMs while cranking (oh and it does crank fine) Checked for spark at the plug wires. I like to use a real spark tester but didn't have one so I went by the manual's way of "holding it 3/8" from the head and crank engine" and no spark (looked at plugs themselves and they still looked brand spanking new) Checked for spark out of the coil the same way and still no spark The book said to use a test light and have one end on ground and the other at the low...something or other (sorry dont have book on me right now) marked by a "+" and should have power going there, which it did. So according to what I understood from the manual is that the coil was bad. Got new coil, put hooked it up the same way as the old one and still no start. I didn't mess around with it, I just left showered, and grabbed the Mustang and headed back to PA. While I'm up here this time I'm gonna buy a DVOM so I can test all the circuits properly, I really don't like the wires in the car. They're really stiff and if you try to bend them the insulation breaks right off so I'm sure a lot of that will have to be replaced before it will run again. In conclusion, I need proper tools. Its at the point where I cant go by without them no more. Anybody around the Mountain Home and Clarkridge area of Northern Arkansas willing to take a look at it for me while I'm here at school?

I spent the last week or so trying to get my Z to run again before I have to go back to school. I failed at it...brand new starter, altenator, water pump, intake with 4-barrell Holley, and now a brand new ignition coil. The only thing left to replace is the distributor but I don't have time for that right now. Im at the point where I have 2 kinds of thoughts. The first one being "I put so much money into this thing, might as well just finish it" and the other being "I put so much money into this thing, I should just sell the engine and trailer it to start working on an engine swap" I feel horrible about it.

I just got the Arizona Z car manifold and Holley put on it, it didnt start the other day so I'm about to go out and go over the ignition system. I hope it runs because I wanna take the Z back to school and leave the Mustang with my friend and I leave tomorrow.

I found this http://www.rotaryaviation.com/faq.html#weight and this http://www.npclub.com/for_npc/showthread.php?t=2166

What I don't like about the Gnose is how it makes the car look so much longer. And I dont like the stretched sugar scoop headlights

I always thought they looked weird too, thats why I'm asking to see how other's have done it and hopefully one will serve as a muse for me.

I love the look of a shaved rear but I think it looks unbalanced with the front having a bumper. So I was wondering if anybody has seen any good looking front ends without bumpers. I was thinking of a Shelby GT350 or Eleanor type thing but I don't think that would be very pretty on a Z. I would prefer pics of custom set-ups, not the MSA Type II/III air dams.

My Mustang clunks from the rear when I take off hard, but my passenger side rear shock is completely worn so I'm sure its bottoming out. Plus mine is a solid axle so nothing I said helps here at all

Hey Auxilary, couldn't you get your wankel and transmission weighed so that we could have an accurate reference to the weight? It would be like the first posting of the 13B actual weight figures in the world.

The only BMW stuff I am working with, not even looking into, is the trailing arm IRS from a 750. I'm cutting and grinding the hubs for a double A-arm type suspension, was a multi-link idea but slowing shifted to double A-arm. I don't have the money for materials to make the extensions for the heim joints so I'm just gonna have the bare hubs for a while...was thinking about making it for the Mustang, but now I don't know. Thats the problem with being young, you never know what you want.

I'm almost done with the cutting and grinding on the BMW hubs, after that its just welding. I don't have the money for steel so I'm not gonna have the extensions for the heim joints to bolt into on them for quite a while.

Ford 5.0 is 450 lbs appearently, adding the weight of the T5 (about 75 lbs I think) would be 525 lbs. With iron heads and iron block. All aluminum LS1 with T56 is 508 lbs so I've heard. T56 is around 120 lbs I believe, so put in the 75lbs GM patterned T5 would be around 456 lbs. Add aluminum heads and aluminum block to the 5.0 than it would be around 425 lbs maybe? I was thinking about swapping an LS1 in the Mustang in the future until I started thinking about aluminum bits for the 5.0 and I think an all-aluminum 5.0 would still a lot lighter than an LS1, does this all sound correct including weight figures?