rxsleeper

I am partial to yellow, even if it is School Bus yellow

Core tire temp is a better indicator. an IR will not give you core temp, only surface. As JohnC said, both are useful depending what you are doing. You are usually looking for a gradient from inside of the tire to the outside and a delta of 20 degree's or so. I use both and have the memory setup in Johns first link for tires. YMMV

Hi Mark, I can't offer much to help you out since I have only Autox'd the Z one time. I am curious though on your tire pressures. Most of the guys that I autox'd with (in theRX8) and I found that the Kuhmo's like much higher pressures than what you listed. Just something else to think about. I will go back and look at my set up notes but 37 psi sticks in my mind for some reason. Next autox look for the Yellow RX8, walk up to Pat and tell him, "look ahead, look ahead, look ahead!" and tell him that is from some old guy in Alabama.

look here: http://www.ztherapy.com/ You can find a picture of the 260 carbs under the heading of "Boat Anchor" Call Bruce and he can help you with the carbs, but probably not much help with the flat tops. If you can find a set of round tops they are easier to work on and to make run right on the Z.

check your pm's

IMHO, you can tow it but I wouldn't. Just because the weight ratings say you can doesn't necessarily mean you should. I would strongly consider the tow bar route or a two wheel dolly to flat tow the car to the track. Use cheap tires on the Z for towing and carry the good tires inside of the car. I don't think you can get enough tongue weight on the Honda to make the trailer handle correctly at speed. You might with an all aluminum trailer but plan on spending upwards of $2.5k for a 10 year old used aluminum one and $6k+ for a new one. I tow on a regular basis and getting the trailer loaded correctly, proper hitch set up with brakes takes some time and it needs to be done right. Otherwise you might find yourself looking at the Z through the windshield of the Honda as you are both going the same direction down the highway. Good luck, I think I would still flat tow or two wheel dolly.

The upper perch contains a pressed on bearing and nestles into the camfer of the bottom of the camber plate. The gold appearing part of the upper perch is the bearing. IE minimal wear on the camber plate as a result of the bearing. Should also allow some very minor articulation of the upper perch. You can also see the captured spherical in the plate. You will still need to grind on the nuts a little if you use Bilsteins. The Bilstein larger shaft diameter requires a few minutes with the grinder to get the nut to clear the top of the plate and be torqued on the spherical, not the plates. All in all, really nice pieces. Cutting/grinding/etc. of the tower top is still a PITA. I had a friend make some aluminum plates to mount on top of the towers to hide the evidence .

and a couple more. BTW, they work well on the rear. Dang cage got in the way of install though.

Here ya' go Jon.

There are bolt in available from Ground Control also. In addition, you can use offset bushings in the lower control arm. They are available from MSA. If the car is for street use, offsets work pretty wel. If you are autox or tracking the car you may want to consider plates. You may want to spend some time reading the strut thread. There is wealth of information on camber adjustments and how to deal with coilovers, etc. BTW, I like John's camber solution but you need to consider overall shock travel when calculating spring/strut lengths. YMMV

I guess being old has it's advantages. I have attended an Apollo Moon launch, night shuttle launch in 1990 (I think, when you get old you forget ), and then a daytime launch this past May. It is truly awesome to witness the raw power of these amazing machines. I made sure all 3 of my kids were there. I have been fortunate. My father was a physicist who worked for NASA beginning in 1960 until his retirement. My wife is currently a Chief Engineer for several science programs for NASA. I take these things for granted since I grew up listening/feeling the test firings of the Saturn IV rocket engines. Thanks for the photo. It is hard to believe that the shuttle is nearly 30 years old and was designed when computers were as large as a house. Just think, the computer that you read this board is more powerful than any computer used to put man on the moon. Just incredible.

Neat find Steve, Thanks! BTW, I bought a slicktop '82 ZX a few weeks ago. Waiting on my shop to get finished and then I am going to fix a few things and make it a daily driver. When I picked it up in B'ham I got 24.5 mpg on the 75+ mph trip back to HSV. Here is a pic Paul

Might as well add mine: '72 240Z built for ITS SCCA class Full cage, 6 point, fire system, 12 gallon cell with 6 gallons fuel, no driver or cool suit. OEM dash, heater core, etc. Electric fan, oil cooler, etc. Still have the OEM door panels and window glass but will probably lose them and add ballast. #2234

Sortof a common problem when racing. I haven't broke one "yet" but have observed another racer break one. FWIW, I have been told to use bolt stock instead of the roll pin and drill/safety wire the bolt stock. I have one tranny at the shop now waiting on a rebuild. I plan on pinning and safety wire.

Yup, measured myself, bottom of strut cartridge to the top of the cartridge, ie the yellow portion in the picture. The overall measurement is from the same bottom point to the top thread. No nut installed. It is possible that I reversed the fractional measurements. I wasn't writing the numbers down. If I did, then that is nearly identical to what you found on the VW forums. I didn't measure diameter, etc. I have these installed in sectioned struts and I had to use spacers in the rear to bring the top of the cartridge up to where it would "lock" in place with the gland nut. JohnC's strut instructions were pretty close to dead on! Of course, this is how I found the car, I am sectioning some new struts to replace my current setup.

Cartridge is 12 1/4" long. Overall length is 21 1/2". I have been told you will want at least 4" of bump. YMMV

I can measure mine this evening if you can wait. Don't forget that the gland nut is different since the Bilstein shaft is larger diameter than OEM. This also changes how you attach the strut since the upper perch/isolator will need to accomadate the larger shaft as well. Hi Katman! Check your work email Paul

NO, hasn't happened to me but I have installed several garage doors over the years. Now, How did your track day go?

It is a roller from your garage door. Check the joints and rollers along the tracks and I think you will find one missing. Paul

Or this:

I found a listing for the carb w/o the suffix f2 for a 1600 Datsun Roadster. Page 448 of the production rules for SCCA club racing

Pete84, The 8 is great fun. With Koni's on all 4 corners it handles GREAT. Yeah the mileage is not super and it is a rotary so it does burn a little oil but those are minor issues that don't take away the fun factor. No torque to speak of but get above 6k to 9.1k it screams. Keeping it in the power band can be tough but for a DD I really like it. It cruises well and has enough power to be fun when you want it too. I have added the Koni's and a Magnaflow exhaust. If I had to do it over again I would forget the exhaust. Just made the car louder w/o any significant gain in power. I autox'd a couple of years and had a blast on R compounds in stock class. Overall it has been rock solid. If you drive it like you stole it you shouldn't have any issues with the wankel. The ones with problems have generally been automatics and drivers who "babyed" them too much. I actually have two 8's. It is a long story and lets just say it ended with "yes dear" but my now 21 yo old son has one as well (against my better judgement). Paul Hey rontyler on the old school 510

Mikelly, really nice ride. I am sure you have aired it out at VIR. My DD when I am not driving the 2500 Duramax Crew Cab, and my Weekend Driver

I know I am coming to this thread a little late, but damn that is funny Keith. I am going to tell my better half (and team owner that one). She is, no lie, for real, a rocket scientist for NASA. She just received a patent the other day for an electrodynamic space tether. Ditto on the rest of the comments regarding the degree. My background was in physics but I retired from Law Enforcement after 25 years. My degree is in Criminal Justice but now I am a lead system integrator for a radio/satellite communications program. It was the degree that made the difference, didn't really matter what in. BTW, my oldest son is a junior in the Wireless engineering program at Auburn. I think he is going to be able to select who he wants to work for and for how much as opposed to just finding a job.

Seeing the other photo of Laguna Seca reminded me of this photo: From 1993 and the "checkerboard" car is mine. It was driven by the builder at that time. The car was sold to traveled to Missouri where it was raced in the "middle" division. I now have it in SeDiv. BTW Kudo's to the archivist of the SF region for the photo.