quicker240

you may want to look into a small base circle cam.I had one in my 406 sbc to clear carillo rods.might be cheaper and easier to change the cam than clearancing and rebalancing everything.

Yes the bearing did spin,but there is absolutely no visible damage or discoloration of the rod end.believe me when i say it will be thoroughly checked before it goes back together.The rods are carillo h-beam and they have been modded some to clear the block and then balanced,so replacing one is not as easy as it seems.I'll let the expert make the call on it.thanks for the input,it helps!

Spun #8 rod bearing.Hurley says it looks like an oil failure combined with poor oil control w/oberg filter.oil bypass hole in block should have been blocked off.this allowed debris back into the oil system w/o going through the filter.there was metal in the main and rod bearings.good news is no real damage to crank or rods.bearings took the brunt of it.crank will have to be polished and bearings replaced and everything disassembled,cleaned,vat,new bearings,gasket set etc ... not too bad after all.this high performance engine building thing sure is a learning experience.I hope I get higher on the learning curve pretty soon.I can't afford not to.I'm still shooting for Ga.!

opened up my oil filter and it was covered with bearing material.engine is coming back out of the car tomorrow for complete teardown. real disappointed but i'm gonna try to get it back together in time for Ga. event.somebody hide my pistol. I hope nothing got hurt to bad......we'll see

Its on Lee Hurleys Dyno At HESCO.He found a few small problems and made the necessary changes.He flogs 'em pretty hard on the dyno but thats what how you find the bugs.I want this car to be solid and dependable,not afraid to go on a road trip.I know stuff is gonna break now and then especially when you push it that hard.He ran it to 5800 rpms,much harder than i have pushed it ever.I just hope this noise is not serious.I am limited now by fuel(28lb. injectors maxed out).He also recommended i go to 20w50 from the 10w30 and he doesnt care for mobil 1 oil either.Oh well,its only money right?

Just got the call from the dyno guy.good news and bad news.The car made 415HP and 475 FT LBs at 4200rpms at the wheels.Bad news is after the third pull,he hears a "squeak" in the bottom end.Not a knock but enough to make him nervous.I'm gonna pull off the oil pan in the morning and take a look,hate to mess up that good callies crank everything in there is new and good stuff,so you guys wish me luck.....You know,I'm due for a break .I will be at Reynolds no matter what!

i recently changed from a th350 to 700r4 and have enjoyed the change on the highway,but the th350 wasnt bad either.i have autocrossed for years with the automatic rather successfully i might add,and believe me,you want to be holding on with both hands when you drive a v8 Z hard through twisties.the only downsides IMHO to the auto are weight and drivetrain losses,both of which are fairly unnoticeable in a Z.The smile factor may be higher with the standard,but the honda aint got a chance either way.good luck on your project.

wish i could tell you something about the paint but I have no idea on the paint color code or anything else about it.believe me when i say it looks better in the pictures(I still think it looks nice)but it needs a repaint.has misc. nicks,bubbles and bad spots,but then again,dont we all?

just a general rule of thumb,15lb of oil pressure per 1000 rpms.15 at idle is ok.

daylight z-car pis OK here are some daylight pics.I am not really sure how to post pic to SES2 site or rsvp but if someone wants to do it for me,I would appreciate it

seats are recaros.i bought them from a guy for 50 bucks and had them recovered several years ago.the wheels are american racing from their latest catalog.6 inch backspacing x 8 1/2 wide.I have a porsche dealership on my tool route,and i get good deals on used HIPO tires.just never know what i'm gonna get.tires are 235/40-17 front and rear but I have some wider ones i intend to try soon.sorry,no new pics yet,weekend did'nt go exactly as planned,but i'll try again soon.

actually Scotty,we spoke for a few minutes in Montgomery,but things were kinda hectic for you that night.Wife and I plan to come over Sat. to GA.It'd be nice to set down over a cold beer somewhere with several Hybriders at once w/o trying to screw in a sparkplug and carry on a conversation at the same time.Looking forward to being there if i can get a few more bugs out of the Fancy/schmancy new fuel injection system.what a PITA

my friend Dave and i have had about 50 or so z,s over the past 15 years or so,the scoop was on a wreck we bought about 10 years ago.its a factory nissan repair for 260z,s with vapor lock problems.kinda unusual,so i held onto.I'll try to get some outdoor pic's this weekend and post them.thanks for the kudo's everyone! I'm terrible on computer stuff so have patience w/me

finally got you guys a few pics,what do you think? .And i WILL be in Ga. next month

photos

guy has too much time on his hands.

If it helps,i run a Mac Tool truck,and i sell all kinds of scan tools.A read code/clear code tool starts around 175 bucks,full function w/live data around 350.I will give anybody here help with any tool problems i can and give a substantial price break whenever possible.let me know if i can help....

That car was built by john skelton here in bham al.that is a REAL nissan g-nose kit he paid stupid money for,something like 4000 as i recall.has corvette diff and 6 spd tranny.the paint is by truman fancher and WAS last i saw,nearly flawless.took 2nd place at z-car national convention a couple of years ago,only to henry costanzas billet wonder car.pics dont do it justice.It really is an excellant car,well sorted and strong running.22000 is too much but not crazy.truly a nice car.Ease up guys,maybe not YOUR taste,but everything we do to max one out has been done to this car already,(and was done 10 years ago!)If somebody is in the market for one with all the goodies,take a good look at this one.just my humble opinion.

I went from 327 to 406 a couple of years ago.Monster torque upgrade.I had 15 to 1 compression so it would only run on 110 octane gas.roller cam required constant valve adjustments and valve train was VERY noisy.It would spin tires at 70mph with no downshift.It was not very practical.Soooooo,I pulled it back apart,cut the domes off the pistons,swapped the 52cc heads for 7occ chamber heads,took the roller out and put a hyd flat tap in.also added the fuel inj. system.I know i gave up some power but it should be way more practical.If it dont rev though,the roller is goin' back in.You are gonna love that new motor man!good luck.hoping to see smoke from mine this week for the first time in two long years.I will be in Georgia!!

anyone have any input on using mobil 1 synthetic oil on a fresh rebuilt engine?I have always used synthetic,but some one told me today that the rings may not seat well due to the higher resistance to wear,BS or something to it?Seems I've heard something like this before.It's gonna get changed the first time pretty quick anyway.Any thoughts?

i have done a few and its not too bad a job.the trick is to use the cord like he said but slather the whole seal with dish washing liquid(its super slippery).put the seal on the glass 1st,slather it up with the liquid,make the two ends of the wire come out about 6 inches from one of the upper corners,put the whole thing up on the car as close as possible,and start pulling the one wire AWAY from the corner,seating the top inner bead.Carefully work your way around keeping upward light pressure on the glass,and it will pull right into place.the last upper sharp corner is the hardest part.once its in,wash all the soap off and you're done!

This may be a little too simple but here we go.When putting together my first v-8 z engine,I was gifted a set of trw dome pistons.Being forwarned by all the goofy naysayers(you cant run those with pump gas!).But my old school engine builder expert said screw em'.His reply was that in a 2500 lb Z car,the engine would never really get lugged down like if it were in a 4500 lb pick-up truck so dont worry about it.I ran that 11:1 327 for 5 years ,autocrossing and all with no problems.I say go with it man,It'll work,and you will haul better booty!appx 15 hp per point of compression on a typical sbc.

I'm suprised you have any power assist at all with no check valve.Long loose pedal could be air or master cylinder bad,booster bad and you hear hissing like he said or pedal very hard to push.bleed the system at the master cylinder and the wheels and make sure your rear brakes are adjusted properly first,brake fluid and labor is cheap.Always check the cheap and simple stuff first,thats almost always what the problem is.... unless your lucks like mine....

I am almost to the exhaust point on mine right now and have been thinking about side pipes due to extreme lack of room.the 2 1/2 inch system before hung way to low for a lowered car and hit way to often.What i hate about side pipes is that they stick out so far from the body(I can feel the ankle burns now!).I thought about cutting into the rocker panel,moving the pipe inside and covering it back up with sheet metal or a side skirt a la viper.Any feedback on this idea? Kinda scared to cut up stuff around there.