stprasinz

Point is he has the motor... And if you have something you aren't going to have to spend money to obtain it... And getting a 350 for cheap that is worth a crap with out full rebuild (full rebuild = as much as I stated to spend to begin with), And that might be the cheapest you could find... Then again you could go that route and Loose out on at least 150 of the 6-700.. leaving 450-550.... (at best) And as a matter afact as I stated about the 350 being a little harder to find.. If you don't know anyone(and if you do they probably want to keep it for themselves anyway). You could be paying as much as 350 for one from a local yard... just made the statement that you coud get hp from a 305.. Heck I had a magazine that made a whole issue devoted to the little engine that could "The overlooked 305"... Wish I remembered which one it was... But they didn't get as much as you would think.. Same mods I said plus aluminum heads they only got like 385 hp and some 40x ftlbs..... To the ground out of a 305 with no internals to the bottom end (if you ask me its amazing)........ The magazine was like a master mechanic from the late 90's.... Wish I could remember...... I almost crapped myself when I read it so I imagine you guy's will all feel the same and say I am lying.. I expect you to. I would think I was and still wonder if they added a few for the hype.. ALthough I hear that a simple cam will get you 1 hp for 1ci..... So I guess it may work.. Also the compression ratio was for pump gas.. It wasn't like ok now this combo is only good for 1 dyno pass on 211 octane fuel... The setup was supposedly daily driver build????? What rpm stall would be required..... Actually I think they had stock 5 speed..( borgwarner says no 350 5 speeds for you..)... Ok well anyway... Refreshments are... He has the 305... little money can get him some hp...

on the note of the 305 not a power house... Hmm go to a junk yard and get a 88, 89 305... slap a intake and a carb, with a mild cam in and a hei dist.... with some headers and a good exhaust and you'd be suprised... over 300 ftlbs, and 250-270 hp...... Yes to the ground....... For little money thats impressive.......... something you have laying around..... intake and carb about 250-300 used cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, springs retainers etc another 250-300... and a good gasket set 60 + 40 for good hg's 6-700 and you got a reliable stout v8 305 that people will think is a 350 undoubtably.......Boy now I'm thinking..... hm I have a 350 block, but needs a crank and rods (2 resized)....All though I have a running 305... needs new valve guide seals.... 5 speed....hmmmmmm

I have a bit to say about that... Nice work... good job.. Not what I would do myself... But none the less nice work.. did you do it yourself? Does it perform as mean as it looks?? I like how it all flows "together"... Not a hack job looking deal.... Is that a kit??? As in for the 300zx??? Or did you custom it??? Not many people could put all that together and have it look like it flows that well... Nice choice of pieces..... Is it your own? or just a pic you found????

AAAAAAAAAAhhhhhhhhhh I keep blowin plugs.... No, not just fouling them.. I pull the plugs and even after I clean them they do nothing.... This is like the 6th set.... I have a blaster 2 coil but wtf..... Any ideas??? No I'm not using a cheap plug either... And, yes I've tried them all. NGK, Bosch, NGK Iridium, NGK cooler ones, Ive tried them all. And, no I won't try any "split fire", platinum, or any other gimmick.... Some melt to easy, some creat too much heat, others have hot spots..... Any advice?

I think "headwork, and supporting mods" is an understatement... You need high compression pistons balancing is a good idea. And thats a start... I don't think you'll get into the 12's spending "ALL" the money you have left over from purchasing the car, unless you strip it to a bare shell. and I mean everything uneeded would have to be gone. And even then it would probably not be much into the 12's... (probably like 12.8-9..... if you are good.. not to knock anything but.....

I went with an act clutch. Unsprung hub... Only engaged harsh for the fist 1500 miles.. now its pretty smooth..... Lightest oem fit clutch disc available.. pressure plate is an act heavy duty... Definitely an upgrade...

Boost... over rated??? sorry to rape the thread here.. But seriously... Boost over rated... Go get in a quick car...(na) then get a boost kit and run 5 psi.... holy difference... car was 200 hp.. now its close to 260... run 15 psi .... wow close to 370............... but your right boost is over rated...lol I love my boosted bottle fed 280zx......lol....

Where can I get one of those heads??? I need one lol... How much green was that????

You may want to look into ebay.. You should easily be able to get a turbo manifold, stock turbo, and injectors for a good price... Probably under 300 total.... Put it on with a little luck in about 5 hours, and tighten the afm as I mentioned before and tune that with a/f ratio (preferably wide band but a little 35-40 dollar meter will work if need be) and for about $300 and a little seat time you should have a boosted z car... external spring the wastegate and wammo you'll win the hp part......(as in the drags) But either way.. (I'm gonna rag on you lol everybody on everything needs turbo... rigs to weed eaters boost is better... lol )

turbo swap it.... Buy a used turbo and manifold, and injectors then tighten up the spring in the maf.... run 12 psi.... and there you go.. pretty close to 100 hp over the stock na... (with intake and an exhaust included) and should be had for about 350 if you can weld and get a stock used turbo.......... drop springs, shocks, and bushings are good chunk at about 500 for all theres 850 + 350 (for the purchase) hitting the 1200 mark... leaving you with 300 to spare.... spend that on the bling and shine and you may clean sweep it... also if you score awsome deals and know people.. turbo (good used) 50$ turbo manifold(from same person ++) Add 20 to the turbo and maybe he'd throw it in Also to get more boost for under 5$ get a spring and attatch it externaly to the wastegate..(look it up google find yourself a local garage with a kid and a pipe bender and get a crush bent(yeah not mandrel) for 75$ and get him to bend you a cold air.. 10? 155 for a turbo upgradeof 100hp approx... as for the suspention 120 for shocks.. and clamp your springs (not a lot 1" drop so now 305 dollars are spent.... complete ignition (coil plugs wires cap rotor) 120 so the total is now..545 plus 350 giving a total of 895.... now you gotta get a boost gauge (35$) an a/f ratio gauge (35$) and an voltmeter gauge(30$) that all match and put them in you center gauge cluster for another 100$ and it would add to the bling and able to monitor raising the grand total to 1,000.... so theres the ultimate junk yard equation for power to dllar value..... hell throw in drilled and slotted rotors at 150... bling and stopping power. any way good luck

to make it even easier though you may want to remove the transmission also.... lol but it is that easy.

300zx dash is a bit wider if I do remember .... I thought I was gonna put one in mine... But I'm not good with the whole vinyl deal.. and as for the fix I got a different 280zx and it had a good dash.... But I imagine if you could work with the stuff that covers a dash it could work nicely.. although I think it would end up cutting like 1/2 inch into the glove box.,.. eyt another turnaway point for me. good luck

Well I just installed a nitrous kit on my 280zxt. It was a 70 shot (of course wet). I was running 24 pounds till someone broke in my garage and busted my boost controller, now I'm only running 15. Well I installed the 70hp shot and took it out for a spin... Actually to be honest for a first time experience with nitrous it wasn't impressive... The thing is after the shot I did it again.. 2, or 3 times even.... After that I floored it with no nitrous... It had more nuts than before..... I guess it must have knocked out the minute amount of carbon....... and now the nitrous shot does feel like the 70 it should....... long story short nitrous plus turbo equals bad ass good luck also make sure you have the proper level of fuel pressure to run the nitrous(44 psi) I have to wait till my turbo is starting to spool in oreder to keep it from running lean.... keep us posted....

As in the ecu? and harness.... Yes.... Why not.. there relatively simple the flow meter just monitors how much air goes in... You would have to run the turbo injectors also..... Ive ran my turbo engine ecu harness etc with no turbo... just had no nuts compared to boost. which is relatively obvious good luck

your best bet on fuel would use one of those bandaid fix fpr that rise the fp like 8 psi per 1 psi of boost and cross your fingers... or raise the fp to like 70 psi with the vac line disconnected... and as for the timing retard it like 8 degrees from stock depending on your total advance..... just a start.. also on the fuel note if you do just up the pressure significantly you may want to tighten the spring in your afm a bit to compensate but if I were you I'd wait for the megasquirt install your only asking for melted pistons or holes in pistons blown headgaskets etc.... although there are people who are out there that will say Ive ran the na injectors by doing nothing more than raising fuel pressure alone........ good luck at anyrate

Actually I think my cluster itself works properly... The thing is the whole car would shut off after about 2-3 minutes then would take from 1 to 10 minutes before it would work again...... I was baffles especially since I used all the relays in my other harness..... I was wondering about how to wire the digi dash in with none of the origanal wires... All I am worried about working is the speedo, and the tach......

Actually 93 octane doesn't begin "uncontrollable" detonation until 15 to 1. As in when 93 octane reaches 15 to 1 it detonates.... I don't know how true this is.. I was running 93 octane on a turbo... the comp. was close to 7.5 to 1 But at 24 psi of boost the final compression ratio is way past 15 to 1... Which makes my fcr almost 20 to 1..... (19.4861xxxxxxxxx)......... And thats with stock type pistons no meth injection.. just an intercooler...... Just food for thought.. And I have a friend with a 15 to 1 compression 6 cyl that runs 118 leaded...... Alcohol is more resistant to detonation isn't it..... Ok I'm rambling and babling....... Probably no sence to half of what I say any way...

Anyone know how to hard wire a digital dash in? As in run wires to a non working digital dash (works but converted to a turbo harness, and the dash only worked for first 2 minutes then the car lost all power to everything.,.... about 10 minutes later it comes back on... problem repeated about 5 times so I just converted to complete turbo harness.. So anyone know how to hard wire a digital dash (as in where the positive, negative, and maybe even the tach??? yes Ive searched to

Well if you in a bind and your afm quite working entirely you could always use the na afm but you should tighten the tension on the spring.. I'm not going into detail but thats about a short worded directions.. And yes it runs pig rich because its a smaller daimeter whole And as for the reving either A. Runs so rich that it starts flooding before the r's go up enough B. the whole for the flow is to small and restricts. I go with choice a because it would still rev in much slower but still rev....

Well I'm running 24 psi of boost. I don't know if the fuel I got was the cause of the hg failure or not My hg only lasted 2,000 miles... And when the gasket poped I was only running 20psi... The night before i made like 8-10 1/8 mile passes at 24.. So I figured the metal hg would have cured the problem.... And then I'd probably be looking at a whole in my psiton right now... So I don't know I'll probably just slap the felpro in there... I'll just have to be happy at lower boost for daily use...

87mm bore and only 91mm headgasket other than stock.... Any one know anywhere to get a hg other than the 91 mm bore, I found everywhere from Courtesy Nissan to Motorsports. But what about me I have a 1mm over bore... That is a lot of area to create detonation when using a 2mm hg... Any clues... Bore it to 91 mm and drop in some forged right lol.... Seriously.. I figured I'd buy a metal hg with at worst an 89mm bore........But oh no..... So now I'm stuck with a felpro...... Anyone got the hook up?

It would probably run pig rich.. As the turbo afm is much bigger in diameter.

Boy I almost forgot because I do such good repair work... My tailights where falling out on the car I said only was rusted around the muffler... I removed the one from the mint body...

Does that thing sound like a true race car? Correct me if I'm wrong anyone, but 3/4 cam refers to the lift of a cam being approx. .750" hence the 3/4 cam... I don't even think the valves would be able to support such.. You could have the biggest valves you could in there and they still wouldn't flow any more than a certain point...... But I might be way off.... Though's types of terms are more of old school terms.. Never really cared to learn them they are getting more outdated..... But If I'm correct that thing should wind out nice... High rpm short power band sort of thing.... someone please stop me so I can stop rambling

Ive had 3 280zx first had almost no floor boards, frame rails, pass side engine bay or spare tire or other side. But the exterior of the body was mint lol 2nd one only had one spot of rust on entire car it was above the exhaust in the rear under rear seat, oh yeah and the roof in the center had bad surface rust. the third 280zx had rust on both floor board seems approx 16-18" both sides and the lowers of front fenders, and the lowers of rears...... thats all