stprasinz

Ok then gobore your l28 40 over, install a stage 2 cam (recomended for 15 psi plus), get undercut valvestems(ferrea), potred and polished head, a turbonetics 60-1 turbo, run 24 psi of boost, act 4 puck clutch, full 3" manderal exhaust, fidanza alluminum flywheel, 440cc injectors, gut the ever living crap out of it(including but not lilited to the heater assembly., etc), lexan hatch glass, even the dash is only the metal carcass with autometer aftermarket gauges, light weight headlights, and roll it on the stock 14" tires....... so you better go to your thinking place . go find a car in your area running 24 pounds even in a honda..... or an sr20...... 24 pounds is impressive... and out of our larger 6's..... I smoked a honda civic that was dynoed to 276 hp running 15 psi while I was at a mere 8.... I beat my buddies sr20 who was dynoed to 37x hp when I stayed in 5th gear and floored it from a 75 mile an hour cruise...... he did pull his nose from my back bumper to my door before I got the full 24 psi built up the I slowly pulled inch x inch....... but now its toat.... 12 psi plus 125 shot anyway... no bs here.... real deals all the way around....

no lie palot less than 1 mile probably less than a 1/2..... look at the mods.... on pump gas 93.....

ok lets see here stock r200 from a 1983 turbo 280zx (I belive to be 3.54.. right..) stock rims with 205 65 15's... 5th gear 62-6500 rpms.... pulled all the way.. I thought I was in 4th.. grabbed the shifter to grab 5th..... whoaw.... (24 lbs boost stage 2 race only cams, stainless undercut valves, 40 over bore, 60 mm tb, 3" manderal, 440cc injectors,(modifed stock afm on stocxk ecu) alluminum fly, act 4 puck, turbonetics 60-1, huge front mount..... 96 in the 1/8th coughing out of the hole ( no boost in 1st gear) .....................now I have 125 wet shot of nitrous and was running under 15 lbs of boost.. but I toasted my build motors pistons skirts...... was searching for info on a big block swap and came across this... any info on a 427 bbc swap?????? 390hp with 460 ft lbs stock below 5000 rpms......... intake, header, and 125 shot of nitrous.....

Thats alot of tubing... Wouldn't there be a loss of velosity and heat??? Heat + velosity = fast spooling happy turbo...... the heat is what I think would be the largest loss.... still awsome work..

I think the copy of the stock manifold would mean that it was the same place the turbo would be located... I think that would work. I have a stock manifold but there is a extension approx. 1.5" to allow for the clearanse of my large compressor... but the header they would make would be of tubular design I am asdsuming(not cast) meaning it would flow significantly better.... even log style would flow better..... just my 2 cents...

I have trie dthat and the engine would pop and fall on its face as soon as positive pressure (boost) was acheived... not sure why.. I was kinda stumped.. The reason I did it was Because you would be able to flow more air through the meter if it were pressureized as apposed to ambient air...... Wow I just found out why... thought about it visualized air being vaccumed into the engine causing the flapper door to open.. then air is pressed into the afm instead of sucking... then the spot on the door is pressed closed somehow.......... In threry in my head looks better than full visual.... Maybe it was just me.... try it and see...

I would think 1 5/8 would be minimum.small blocks use 1 5/8 on mild modified up to 350 hp and thats 8 cyl. flowwing that much air. were a 6 cyl. flowwing as much air as a small block.... so I would say 1 7/8 myself... but prob..ably a comprimise would be 1 3/4.... but I will still be a taker even at 1 5/8

Ok I should have said not as impotant. there are pulses etc that do come into play. but these are also budget built parts. these are not harmonic tuned peices that squeze the last 1/10 of a hp. they are supposed to give a good bump in hp. And still no the equal length is not as important in a turbo car... the pulses are dampened by the turbo, and many other things.. the torques is there by the back pressure.. Also I hope you are running a torque tube off your wastgate. and the wastegate is centrally located. but any way..till next time...

equal lenght isn't important in a turbo manifold. the equal length of an na header allows the cylinders to have equal back pressure as to where in a turbo design the turbo creates a back pressure wich is equal throughout the entire manifold. as for the wastegate, I would say it is a givin.. and the flange would probably be best a s a t3.. they spool up pretty quick and get a stage 5 wheelk and your good to go.. as for materiel thicker mild.. as for wether tubular or log style.. I think log would be a bit cheaper, on the manufacturing but more for the product...as for the price if its a quality peice I would be willing to pay 350-450, if not 175 and I'll take 2 lol.... anyway I'm am alos in...

Sorry about that megasquirt 1 version 3.0 1983 280zx with 1983 280zx turbo distributor msd blaster 2 coil, fired by megasquirt unit running the code ms1 extra 029y4

Ok, lets see here. 1st My ignition wire appears to be of different wire type than the rest.. Is this correct?? 2nd How do I set up the trigger offset, and what do I set the spark settings to?? 3rd I currently have my car running off the stock ecu with the timing set by assembly only.. (as in engine at tdc and distributor set to sight hole aligned with the #1 on the little metal cap...)Can I just set a trigger angle to accomidate, and if so what would it be?? 60 deg, or 0???? 4th I am a little confused as to what the fuel pump wire does?? Can I just hook this up to a relay and power fuel pump(s) that way? or should I hook up both the ignition switch, and the purple wire(fuel pump wire) or just hook up a wire that would act as the ignitiopn (no actual ignition switch other than to lock the steering whell, I love toggles.. lol) Ok, the reason I ask #1 is that the wire looks more like it would be a wire to hook to ground for the ground sheild..., and I dont want to remove the hood of the connector because it has been shrink wrp sealed... reason for #2 I read the post about timing the offset, but it says where you think 66 degrees would be.... sorta a little discouraging. And it seems there would be a definitive scientific way of doing this (like set it advanced 6 degrees btd, and let the opticle sensor be offset by the one signal pulse so to speak) #3 is basicly a reworded #2 to hopefully clearify what I am asking (like I am doing right now...) #4 I just don't want to fry something, especially since I just paid over 550 for everything.... Oh and I have tried to search.... Anything I find is vague.. I am looking for difinitive answers... Thanking any and all in advance for there help...

Well sorta... But I also haver a wide band in the car already.... what I mean about the kpa is that is what ios in the side bar of the maps... I would also have a setting in the vaccum range to help to get good fuel economy. also I think I am going to create a map (after my initial tune is good and safe) that will be an antilag setup for racing... which would consist of retarded timing tables when not under boost to create an antilag setup.... But thats down the road.. I have to wait till my initial tune is solid first. Also I am waiting to make my harness till I get my tape (plymoth harness tape that has been discussed in the forum....) anyway. thanks for the help

Almost forgot. a peice of info I have found very ittle on, is the dwell and duty of spark.... Since I am running the coil directly from the MS unit.

Megamanual as in the wiring, and trouble shooting manual? What I am looking to do is get a scraggley safe tune to start my car and drive the block checking sensor reading for tunning. THings I am wondering about is the map sensor settings. I have a 4 bar map and would like to know where to set the kpa at and what the vac, boost would be in refernece to that so I can tune.... I have a good basic setting I think so I will be able to start the car, but am lacking things like this(actually need this so I can setup the maps, but understand basicly where to go from there.) I also figured out the advance timign map.. pretty simple actually it just starts with the timming preset to 10 deg atd for some bizzare reason. So here are my basic questions What kpa settings are equal to what boost level, on a 4 bar map sensor What about the fuel requirements? How do you get them starightend out? as in do I set the lowest afr I want my engine to see? THanking any and all in advance.; Hopefully these are easier questions. ANd definintive answers(as in solid precise answers) are always appreciated.

The only thing that the relay would do is act as an interuptor to cut the + feed when the key is off. He isn't saying to hard wire them. He is saying not to rewire them in the first place. If you are comfortable leaving the 25+ year old wiring intact then I guess you probably could. And since you said you want to use as much of the original wiring , I guess it couldn't hurt.... Good luck.

Yeah I found the right one.. I think.. Hollllllllllllllly settings.... Like holy settings....

Also what I am runnin g is megasquirt 1 with extra. What do I set things like timing? its all started out with the entire map at -10 and wont let me go further? is that the equevelent to 10 deg atd? so I should change them all to positive #? basicly ranging from 19-28... (28 vaccumm to 2 psi of boost up to as low as 18 full boost at about 6000 rpm and the tweaks for everywhere else... Now I have searched and found alot of how to after its running but setting up the maps I have found very little for prestart up tunning. also the 4 bar map how do I tell the tunign software its there?? what do I set the map to.. I know I am asking alot and its probably all somewhere and I am just looking in all the wrong places to find it.... any and all help would be appreciated. Any tunners in the ny pa area want to lend a hand to get an up and runner a hand???? thanking any and all in advance.. thank you, thank you very much (in that elvis voice... lol)

Ok as you all may have read I have recently aquired a megasquirt. What I am wondering is a few calculations on boost psi, on a 4 bar map, to put in to get the desired numbers to put in the tunin bars... Also anyone have a basic tune for my setup. (or a basic this is close...) 390cc low imped injectors, turbonetics,t3t4 60-1 running spark also from a hei 4 pin, boost controller, metanol injection, wideband o2, flat top pistons, p90 head schneider stage 2 cam(480 lift if I'm correct)(race only 480 lift??) currently I'm not running the stainless valves I had in my other head(would have increased low rpm air flow, alongwith low lift, I'm told (if I understood correctly) also big intercooler, 93 o better, 3" manderal exhaust I hope I havegiven enough detail I also hope to run about 20 psi max on street, but depending on how that goes I may up it a few psi... any hints etc would be greatly appreciated

Umm heres something.. WHere do I download the on ewith spark??? I tried the diy and it said it wasn't found or somthing odd... I have the one for MEGATUNE but it has no spark controll??? I guess I found it...

High boost. 24psi low boost 18 All on the stock ecu, with larger cam, big intercooler, turbonetics 60-1, 450cc injectors, 1 mm overbored, n42 intake(heat wrapped), msd blaster 2 coil, stainless valves w/ undercut stems, alluminum flywheel. The list goes on. Now (as in still in boxes but to be installed int he next couple weeks) I have megasquirt, methanol injection, h2o intercooler, larger alternator, that list also goes on(wb o2)..... Oh and the 3 head gaskets were as follows. First head gasket after 1500 miles, repeatedly ran 24 psi of boost, repeat runs, and I made a few passes after starting and shutting off every 5 minutes for about 20 minutes (drag races) in between passes. the second was after I ran it for a while (about a month) I attempted to retorque the head at which point I busted a bolt, replaced all the bolts but not the hg. It was weeping after that point. The 3rd gasket was within 1 mile attempting to run 12 psi of boost. I think the 3rd time was a faulty ebay special gasket. The portioj that went over the timing cover was entirely crushed.. and I had already disassembled my head..... Oh I think I said that it had blown in the same spot befor.. Well it was the other side.... Same type of fault though.... And all that being said. I have read a few of braaps post and he seems to have a pelithera of knowledge on many subjects.. I am not saying he isn't right by any means. I am merely pointiong out more of the situation. And unfortunatley I am afraid he is right... If he is hopefully the megasquirt and meth inj cures that problem...

From the looks of the crank while rotating it is still close to the pistons where they where brokeand would have hit the pistons the skirts stuck well below the bottom of the cylinders. But yes thats where the pistons broke, also the closest plase to the crank. While rotating the crank the pistons clear by a very minute amount evn with the broken skirt. THe draw back is I did assembly. I rotated the engine by hand a many of times. I didn't feel anything I thought was a ubstruction, but it was also my first fulll assembly, other than sbc, and they feel 2 times as stiff while rotating just one cyl. than the 280 felt after full assembly... But I did purchase the pistons from this person, and he is known for some hand gernades. He did all the machine work, and I did the assembly. After I get the car done and out of the garage I will Toss the engine on the stand and take a closer look to see exact clearnace. Also all 6 pistons broke in the same spot. Exact same spot. If it was 1, 2 or even 5 I wouldn't think it was the crankshaft. Also there apear to be small dings in the crankshaft , But I guess that could be from the peices projecting away. Also when the machining was done the shop was talking about offcenter boring, because the engine had a rusted side on 1 cyl. where it satfor years, upon years with a shot hg causinbg the h20 to sit in that cyl, and rust seize. etc. I said I would rather sleeve it he said lets bore it and see. bored it a full mm over after I said I would rather .5 and sleeve that cyl. he didn't care what I said. And to top it off that cyl. was still "shadowed"? As in still some evidence of rust having been there at 1 time..... Anyway till futher inspection keep your widebands tuned for the z....

Umm this is odd.. lol. My desktop now has the tuning... :mparty:Man it seems almost simple now lol.... Now I have to find out where it came from and see about getting it on my laptop... so I can:mparty:Boy these guys are dedicated... They been parting a long time...

Everytime I try and download "Tuning Software" I come up with just wait looks like binary (on left are numbers from 000001, 000002,000003 etc) then what seems to be the same How toos I was looking at before??? Anyone have a sight that I can download the proper softwarte from or am I just a tard... Also does the megasquirt ecu have to be hooked up to veiw the software? I am confused or just a tard... So either anyone have a binary code translation lol, or just a link or soem type of direction to get to the software.... or just call me a tard..... PLEASE HELP...

Well I have been having trouble blowing head gaskets. First one, ok just pushed the gasket out, from repeated high boost runs... Second one wow that was quick, I didn't even run high boost only a few times (and it wasn't even HIGH BOOST, like I have in the past?) Replaced it a 3rd time and blew it in less then 1 mile... Ok maybe not the heads problem... Pulled the motor got the other one prepped(flat top ouch..). Well anyway I get all ready for the swap and pull the oil pan off the oil engine, and low and behold, there is a metal chingky sound in the bottom... So I put my habd into the pan and pull oil a alluminum peice?? Looks like the bottom of a piston skirt???Wait more chingky noise.. Its another, and another??? Sure enough all 6 piston skirts got busted off by the crank shaft????? Needless to say...... Boy I guess I am not going to that machine shop again.. And I guess that may be why I kept thinking my turbo was leaking oil... Gonna giv ethe shop a call today..... How do I calmly approach the situation??? Oh and here is the odd part. I have rotated the engine by hand several times.... (on initial assembly) And it spun freely( so I thought) I guess I didn't catch that one.. And yes I bought the pistons from them... Over 300 Said they where a step above cast allthough they weren't hyper's??? Didn't ask I mean he's the machine shop..... Add that to the balancing, cranck machining, block machining, rod prep.... dip etc... the tune of approx 900. So like I said how do I approx the situation calmly... any advice...

Its here.. Allready:mparty: But I sort of didn't notice that the boost controll selonoind wasn't in the price listing... sugar.. I asked for it but then we got passing back and forth info and forgot to put it in the bill so about 620 overall... I gotta get one seperate shipping... oh well.... Still its here. This is alot smaller than I thought.. I figure it would be slightly longer and thicker than a stock ecu for a car..... I guess it will be alot easier to mount than I thought.. Now I gotta find a trick spot for it... (as in so I can hook the laptop up easily for programming etc.... And so you can see the led's....