jeffp

Few things here, John, if your friends are running a damper that is lasting that long then that is good, but Dave Robello has not had that good of results with the Euro damper, or an OEM damper with his racers he does engines for. Myself, my damper lasted about 7K miles on the car, not to good. I haven't had a problem with the bolt coming lose myself, but I torqued it to 160 foot pounds and used red locktight. I did find a bolt that was longer then the stock bolt, where it came from is the question. I may be one of the bolts NISMO sells, I dont know, but what that did for me was enable me to use a different washer. I also have a volvo and it has a washer that is almost 1/2" thick, bigger in diameter, but a lathe took car of that, and with the longer bolt, I am able to use this washer, and thread the bolt all the way into the crank threads. I think it will work out well, but we will see. I bet ARP could come up with a stud/nut combination that would work excellent, but it will cost alot. Anyway, Brian said he was a week out on the assembly, but I haven't called back to check up on it because I just dont want to hear it will be another two weeks or something like that again. I have been waiting for a long time for this part.

I am in the process of building the engine to 600Hp and that will be good enough for me. All of you are correct, you will spend big bucks getting a car to run that kind of power and put it to the ground and not spit your tranny out the rear of the car in the process. That has been my big problem since my last build. I knew I was at the limit of my tranny, and had some serious concerns in the LSD in the car. The cam also needed some work as I need to increase the duration on the exhaust side a little to get some better flow out of the exhaust. So what have I done, well I have a new Tremec TKO2 that is just waiting to go in the car. I am just waiting on a reamer for the pilot bushing and it will be in the car. I have a new Quaife ready to go in, and I still have to have the drive line made. The turbo I think is a good combination of compressor and exhaust turbine, but the first run on it will be where the rubber meets the road. I have new 72Lb injectors to install, and a retune from Clark at JWT (and James we wont get into how I should get a different fuel management system LOL) anyway that is what it takes, and still, there is some consideration on the intercooler I am running, and the size of the T/B and the list goes on. Bottom line is I think I will be able to run the Hp to 600 with the new setup, but again the complete system will be maxed out to do it, and hey that is alright with me. I really dont want to make any more power then that. I would basically have to rebuild the whole car if I want any more, and that includes the chassis and I really dont want to go there. If I was going to do anything more then that, I would just start with a gutted car and build accordingly, but I want to run my car on the street and not make it a trailer queen just to run a little faster. I did a quicky calculation, and 600hp with the weight of the car @ 3200lb will get me to a 10.07 best case through the 1/4 that is fast enough. I think James will be better equipped to do that kind of run with his auto tranny, that is really pushing it hard to try to get my 5 speed to get the car that fast and shifting and all that stuff. anyway, I am trying to get to the 600hp range and still be able to run the car on the street, and I have been suscessful to this point with the exception of the clutch, that sucker is notchy now but it has to be radical just to hold the power on the 240mm flywheel. There were also other concerns like the cooling, that I think I have taken care of with the new cross flow radiator, but again, I wont know for sure until I run the car down the road and see what kind of results I get with it. Then there was the issue of the oil pan and throwing the oil away from the pump pickup under heavy acceleration. Then there is the issue of tires, Will M/T 8.5 wrinkle wall tires be good enough to get the power to the ground? Good question, I am sure it will be right on the edge in that respect, so there are just so many factors to deal with, all of them are costly no question about that, but we will see. It's going to be another few months until I will be able to start the car again, I just have to many mods to complete to get it done in a short time.

I have done the Quaife install in my car (well diff) I havent installed the diff yet in the car. I have been waiting for other mods I am doing atthe same time. But, I can tell you that it would be best to have a good Z shop setup the diff for you. I was going to do it myself unitl I found out how much Nissan charges for the shims. on the average 10.00 USD per shim. When you start calculating how much you could spend in shims, to spend 200.00 USD to have the unit setup is not unreasonable. You will not have to worry about the 10mm/12mm bolt sizes as the differential will accept both bolt sizes. This is the very best unit you can get for any car really, not just the Nissan cars. This unit is exactly likethe old Torsen differential that was made in the early 80's they were bought out by Gleasen. The brakes are another problem for our cars. I looked around for a number of months for an acceptable set of brakes for my car. I finally found a guy doing the upgrade with outlaw calipers and a 12" coleman rotor. The brakes work VERY well on my car. I did not have to get a proportioning vale for the system and they really stop the car. In fact if you go with a set of Hawk blue pads you will truely be amaized at how well they stop the car. You can see his stuff at http://www.fonebooth.com The draw bcak to what mike made was that he did not design the brackets with a atrut on the car and the ball joint was removed. So when I tried to install the system, the first thing I found was the rotor was hitting the ball joint, the second thing was the bracket also was out of alignment along with the rotor. What I had to do is to remove .100 off of the rotor hat, and .100 off of the caliper bracket. That fixed the clearance problems and the brakes installed just fine. Mike may have made the changes to the rotor hat thickness and the bracket thickness already. But other then that little glitch, the system operates perfectly. You should have no problems with a V8 engine and stopping the car with this system. The other thing that was very convenient with this upgrade is that I am able to fit a set of 15" wheel on the car still. I havent tried a stock set of turbo wheels on the car, but my centerlines fit, and a set of American Racing 15" wheels fit as well. I would be willing to bet a stock set of wheels fit also. anyway that is what I have done for the brakes, and the diff, well You might be better off buying the Diff directly from UK, that is where they are made. hope that helps and if you want to check out my web page it is http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt REGARDS: jeffp

Well first off you can get to the 600-700 tops with the L series turbo application. You will spend the bucks doing it tho, no question about that. The thing that concernes me the most from my stand point is the chassis of the car. I am pushing 500Hp with my engine and I am going to bump it to 600hp but the body of the car is really starting to get stressed in my opinion. We will see how it handles the hp and torque. I am thinking 600 hp is about all you would want to go without linking the car together to accomidate the torque better. One thing that I just realized while talking on the phone to a friend is a engine plate between the tranny and engine. You could make the plate to secure to the frame rails and there is no reason why you couldn't extend the plate a few inches so that you could link the car together, front to rear. Now that would be a good way to fix all of the body flex. Then the sky is the limit for power if you were really wanting to make some serious hp and torque. anyway, just thinking out loud.

I found out about the ATI unit a number of months ago, almost a year ago in fact. I called an spoke to the guys about installing this unit on my car, everything sounded good until I got to the issue of the pullies. The ATI damper is configured like the SB chevy damper in that it bolts the pully on the end of the damper, well if you do a few calculations you will find that the pullies will be out of alignment to the extent that unless you do a complete set of pullies they will not fit. Also whae you do get the pullies for the unit, and you will have to have another shop make them for yo, there is a clearance issue with the fan, the front radiator support. Now that is what I got from the customer service guys at ATI, maybe they have changed the configuration, and came up with a set of pullies, that I dont know, I haven't talked to them since I did all of my research. They were not willing to help me fit this thing to my car, and for 471.00 for a damper, plus the money involved to get a set of pullies made, and to an acceptable size to run the various components on the car, it just was not worth it. I spoke to Brian, and we came up with a design that I think is a winner, and from all of the data Brian has collected on the part, and they are now doing a trigger wheel for after market EFI systems, I think this is the best way to go. We designed it to work on a stock 280zx three pully system, with the third pully bolt on just like the Nissan unit. BHJ was willing to build a unit, and sell it where ATI, and Fluid damper, I spoke to them also, were not willing to come up with a system designed around their product that would work for the Nissan application. I guess they sell enough SB chevy units to make a little R&D to much trouble. I know I have been saying the unit would be ready from BHJ for a number of months, but that is not in my control. I am just saying what Brian has told me. I called again last week, the damper is completed and ready for assembly, the only part that needs completing is the bolt on pully for the A/C. They are waiting on that part to send all of the parts out to the platers to cut down on some of the manufacturing costs, sounds reasonable to me. I understand this has been going on for a number of months, but for me this is the very best soultion to a troublesome problem with the stock units. And, if you have had no problems, GREAT, I dont want to get into the reasons why it happens and yada yada yada regarding the issue ok guys. When I get the part on my door step I will be sure to post it and give the pics of the finished product on my web page, the one there now is the first working proto and there has been a change to the part since then. They were able to change one of the parameters and get more elastimer cross sectional area from the change, and that also was just fine with me. Anyway, that is what I know on the matter. Maybe ATI has changed their thinking and come up with a reasonable solution, but when I spoke to them, a 600-700 dollar solution was a bit extravigant for me, fluid damper guys would not even consider designing a damper, BHJ said we can do that and I went with them.

All I can tell you is the JWT tuned both of these cars. My car was running 4-5psi less boost and making the same power the L28 was at a higher boost level. Maybe that is why they called Robello an commented on the power my engine was making, and asked him about what went into the engine. I thought that was interesting at the time myself, and I only found out about it in passing talking to Dave about some other issue I was dealing with at the time. I know what I did to my engine, and why it makes better power, and Dave also knows some of the things I did to my engine, but not everything. I went to great lenghts on the smallest things when I built the engine and it paid off for me significantly. The exhaust back pressure for example. Everyone I talked to and told them my results of my testing said it was exceptional, and uncommonly good, very good. But again we get back to the basics, and swept volume is just that, swept volume, the more you have, the more potiential you have to make more power in any application. I will say one thing tho, this last build I am doing on the car is going to be sweet, if I can manage to get the fuel management to support the hp potiential of all the new hardware. We will see, and I have been working on this stuff for to long and I'm getting sick of waiting.

I spoke to Brian two weeks ago and he informed me they will be ready in two weeks. I haven't called him back yet, and I am about ready for the part myself. I am going to call Monday and get the story on the part. I have just been hesitating because I have been waiting for this part so long I dont want to be let down on the lead time for the part again. I will let you know Monday. jeff

well how well the N/A engine runs is dependant on the cam and how well the carbs are tuned. There are just so many different variables that it is impossible to say this is better then that. One thing to keep in mind thos is this, the 3.0 is capable of more power and torque then the 2.8, it's a matter of swept volume, and when you do the calculations, you will find the 3.0 will do more. When it comes to a turbo application, I can tell you that my 3.0 is making the same power on 4-5psi of boost less then the 2.8 and it is way more torquer then the 2.8 for the hp readings.

I was almost going to send you a mail today about the crank. I pulled one yesterday and it looks excellent, But I thought you most likely already got one. Regarding working on the car, I cant agree more. I have a TKO2, a new diff with the Quaife, oil pan, turbo header, turbo, modified downpipe, radiator, electric fan, electric water pump, new damper, bronze pump drive gear, manual rack and pinion, new drive line(still not built) and moded strut rods again, all waiting to be installed, and I am sick and tired of getting under my car also. This is the last hardware upgrade I am going to do to the car, it is just going to have to be good enough. then to finish it all up, an upgrade to the fuel management with 72Lb injectors. I dont have to do the tuning, but I sure got to make the fuel rail, again, and buy the injectors and pay Clark to tune the car. Thats it for me. This has definetly been an exercise in patience for me, and an exercise in temperance dealing with some of these guys selling me parts. Well anyway, I think your car will hold together good with a good damper on the front of the crank.

that system Vortek has is not a new system, much prettier but not new. Yes the system does work, but to do it right you really need to set the bottom end up correctly to run boost. You will need a turbo piston to save the top ring from gettind burned, and I would suggest the high silicone content type forging. With that piston you will be able to set the piston to cylinder clearance to about 2 1/2 thousands and not the standard 5-6 thousands for the other type piston. the thing about that piston is the clearance being so sloppy, makes a street car a little less fun to drive. You need to heat the engine up correctly to get the expansion of the piston and the cylinder when it is hot and that takes a little time, it is not just jump in the car and go like hell from the start. The high silicone material relieves that challenge significantly. The next thing that would benefit you significantly is to change the rod to stroke ratio. Try for at least a 1.7:1 ratio, and if you can swing it without setting the wrist pin under the oil ring a 1.75:1 rod to stroke ratio. The bottom end will handle the added power much better and you will gain power that way. To finish off the block, go with a 4 bolt main, and main cat studs, ARP makes them. Then you will want to at least stud the cylinder head bolts, and if you like go with orings, but I dont think that is really needed unless you are going really crazy with it. Fet a good set of heads that will flow some good numbers, and I dont really have a suggestion on those as there are so many choices now and all of them are very good parts. Hydrolic lifters are not a good idea if you are going to turn the engine to 7K or higher, go with solid lifters and avoid pumping up the lifter issues. Use guide plates for the push rods and a good set of roller rockers would be a good idea, stay with the standard 1.5:1 rocker ratio and get your lift from the cam. The higher rocker ratios tend to want to put more side loading on the valve. Use 120 pound springs, Isky has some very good products in that area. Then for the carb I would suggest the holly perdator carb as you will be able to change the flow of the carb and the fuel flow rates easier as you get the boost bug and want more. The thing to keep in mind is that if you go overkill on the parts and build a beefy engine, you will be ahead in the end in my opinion. Then all you have to do is figure out how you are going to put all that power to the ground and not up in smoke LOL just some of my thoughts.

Hi everyone, as some of you have known, I have tried to once again do a run of the system/downpipe I have designed for the turbo applications. I have been working on this last go around for about two months or more. I had collected about 30 emails from people htat wanted the system at one time or another so I decided to get the current quotes from the bender and offer the system again. There was about 50% fall out from all of the emails I sent which I expected, but that would have left me with the required numbers in order for the bender to take the job. I again sent out the emails to the people who indicated that they were interested in the downpipe/system and have been waiting for them to reply. I received emails from about 8 people of the 16 I think it was and that was about a week ago. Now since not all of the people have not wanted the complete system, the bender will not fabricate the cat back pipe as he is also requiring the minimum number of 15 parts in order to take the job. So here is the bottom line, if you are interested in the downpipe for your car, and the guys that have replied, need not reply again if you have already dons so, send me a email indicating that you would like the part. The downpipe comes with the flange to the turbo(stock nissan turbo) the gasket, the mounting bracket to the tranny, the flanges, and the test pipe that can be used to install the cat with its flanges, and or, an additional flange set to run just the test pipe to the cat back pipe. The additional falnge will be extra. The cost of the downpipe and the rtest pipe will be 300.00 plus the shipping. PLEASE let me know if you want this part. Frankley, I dont have the time to babysit everyone and send out numerious emails trying to get enough people to do a run of the part. I dont think I am going to try this again as there at this point doesn't seem to be enough interest to spend my time and effort on the thing. So if you want it mail me at mrjeff1@sbcglobal.net and if I dont get enough people to do this part then I will go and get my proto back from Frank and put it up on the shelf in my garage and forget about it. REGARDS: Jeff Priddy

Regarding the Ford MAF. Clark went with the ford maf for a munber of reasons. First the part is 225.00 out the door and in the car. The Nissan MAF is about 500-700 depending on area and discounts if you can get them. Second The Nissan MAF starts it's scaling at 2.2 volts @ 750 RPM. Clark was able to develop the table for the Ford MAF with an idle voltage of .7 volts and then a second map starting at .490 volts at 750 RPM. What this did was give hime the ability to increase the metering of the entire system, remember the MAF is key in the metering of the air into the engine, so the better resolution you can acheive on the MAF the better off you wil be in regards to maximum power developing ability of the system. The ford MAF also was utilized because it like the Nissan MAF scaled in volts and not frequency like the GM MAF does. The final thing that made the Ford part work out well is that it would scale over 5 Volts and again that made the power potiential greater with the part. The Nissan part output voltage is clamped to 5 Volts maximum output so when you hit that number you were done. anyway, maybe I will start getting into this stuff and see how bad I can screw it up LOL I have a little spare change and can get the reader/ writer and take a look at that is going on.

I was looking to do something like that about a year and 1/2 ago. I called G force, richmond, Jerico and no one had such a setup. I looked into the T56 also and that was doable, but I did not want to put out the 600.00 to have the bellhousing done. I finally decided on the TKO2 and am just about to install that unit in my car. I have to get the throw out bearing slider completed, and that will be done this week according to my machinest. I had the clutch modified to run the TKO spline, and I had the stock bell housing welded and two ears installed to accomidate the Ford bolt pattern. That cost me 100.00 then I took the bell housing down to a really cool shop in my area and had it surfaced. I installed the tranny in the bell housing and marked it for the bolts for the tranny and drilled and tapped them, it worked out excellent, except for the fact that the recommended drill for the tap 12mm X 1.75 pitch was the erong drill. I used a .219 drill and it should have been a .206 drill so the threads were not cut deep enough for my taste. So then I am going to install stainless steel helicoils. I ordered some from metrics unlimited and they will be here this week I hope. I am really wanting to get this bad boy installed this weekend if I am able to. The TKO was modified in the shifter to the same shifter position as the stock T5, and I am running the new 2003 mustang hurst shifter. All in all, the setup is turning out very well. I am running the stock T5 speedo drive gear, I turned the housing to size on the layth to fit the TKO and it worked out perfectly in the TKO. The tranny mount is 1/4" further back on the TKO from stock, but I was able to mod the tranny mount to fit in the stock place, so that is good to go. I will have to drill and tap the tail shaft for the stock mount, but mot to hard to do at all. This tranny will be excellent for me and I really dont think I will break it. I figure if there are ford guys doing 9's with it then I should not have to many problems doing 10's with my car. The drive line turned out excellent also. I am using a LSD flange off the diff with a 2-2-1899 spicer companion flange and running a 1310 unitversal joint in the front and the rear. I guess I should have waited a little longer and I would have not had to do so much work and spens as much money to do this mod. Cool, if you are interested in the TKO2 tranny, give Shefi Keisler at Keisler automotive a call. He has kept the drawings on the mod for the shifter to fit our cars. (865) 609-8187 he can give you the low down and pricing. I went with the TKO2 because of the gearing, the strength, the ease of the modifications to get it in the car. I will not have to hack my car to death to install it, and I wont have to worry about breaking it, maybe bending my car LOL but not breaking the tranny. After I get all of my new goodies installed then it will be time to bump the fuel management to push 600Hp and I will call it even for the car, finally done with it. Well I think LOL, who knows.

Good, nice to hear you have the turbo working correctly. I was very happy with the way it came on boost, and when you kick it to 20psi and nail it @ 3000 rpms it gets really fun.

Believe me Craig, when you run that turbo to 23psi you gonna be movin LOL I loved the way the car felt when it came up on boost. I was playing one time with a 57 chevy, and it looked like it was built somewhat. So I see the guy at the light and I turn the corner(the wife was in the car with me) and I'm driving slow so the guy can catch up to me. The wife says are you driving slow to let that car catch up, I say I dont know, LOL and she laughes. The car catches up to me and I run second up to 3K and let the guy know I am interested, he looks over and taps his throttle, we take off, Now I am at 3K in second right, I nail it and it spools to 20psi right off the bat and the guy is way behind me, I love it to funny, we meet at the light and he gives me that look like your car is way faster then my chevy, and he asks me what are you running in that thing? I couldn't resist, an inline 6 I say, he says is it turbo, yea I say it is turbo, he says that thing took off. I laugh and say yea it does go when I want it to. LOL to funny, I love doing that.

Hey bud, there is something wrong with your setup slightly, the turbo was into full boost 20psi @ 3000 on my car. Check out what is different from my car to your car and you will be happier with the quicker spool time.

Craig, you should be able to run 20psi in the car. The turbo should be into full boost at 3K so if it is not take a look at how you set it up, and all that jazz. The difference between 14psi and 20psi is night and day, all I gor to say is get some brakes for the car now, and if you havent 't improved the suspension, I would highly suggest it. Also, if you are going to run the high boost, I would suggest poly/solid mounts on the engine and save your tranny. There will be to much flex in the rubber parts to keep the driveline strait under high boost, and you will run a very good chance of destroying your tranny in the process. Let me know hat you are doing and I will tell you what I did with my car, this is one place that I know all about, and if you want, I can tell you exactly how to configure the car to run the high boost numbers and save some time, trouble, MONEY in the long run and your parts. well anyway, you know all about my car for the most part. But there are things I have done that I have not mentioned to anyone and they also have improved the race/drive ability charactoristics of the car that enable me to dovetail the two venues together with excellent results. I will be out of the area until Thursday, so if you mail me and dont get a response that is why. Jeff

I am running the CV's in my zxt car and my last dyno pull got me 473 foot pounds of torque to the rear wheels. I was also running a r200 LSD diff. here is my dyno results http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page19.html look at the last chart.

I looked into the T56 install for my car, but decided to go with a TKO2 Tremec tranny in stead. The T56 is not rated for torque to the limit my engine is doing. The big thing was the bellhousing. I called Virgil and he wanted 600.00 to do the bell housing. Then you have to buy the tranny and I dont remember the cost on that bad boy but it was expensive. Look on ebay for one. Then you have the clutch, and the flywheel, and the input shaft is short, so you have to install a bearing in the flywheel. Then you will have to do the drive line, and I would suggest getting the flange from the 300ZXT LSD R200 diff to do the drive line with. Spicer makes a companion flange for that flange from the LSD and have the drive line made. The last thing is that you will more then likely have to cut some of the hump in the car away to fit the gear box. The shifter sits back about 1" farther then the T5 you have now, but that should not be a problem, but an advantage. hope that helps.

if you like give me a call at (714) 966-0108 and maybe I can put you on the right track to getting the wiring correct and working. I have done alot of work on the turbo harness. Jeff

>This may sound strange, but the weakest link for BIG power in my setup is the JWT Sport 400 turbo. It's a T04E 50 trim compressor with a 3" inlet. The turbine housing is a T3 .63 a/r with a stage 5 wheel I believe. At 20psi I hope to put down 340 RWHP on a Mustang chassis dyno. It will all depend on how efficient my engine is and whether I stay well inside the 60% efficiency island on the compressor map. I don't think I will make more than 340 RWHP until I go to a bigger turbo. It sure spools quick though!< I was running that turbo and I got 413 RWHP out of my car with the sport 450 turbo setup. Yes the turbo did spool up quickly. I even did a back pressure test on the system and it was excellent. Like you, I wanted a little more out of the engine, so I am in the process of upgrading the turbo again, along with an external wastegate and a .70 A/R exhaust turbine housing. I am building it for 600Hp at the crank, so that will put me right where I want to be in the torque ranges and the Hp, not that the Hp is that important to me, well not as much as the torque anyway.

correct me if I read the posts wrong, but in an L28 block, you will never get a rod that long to work with the LD28 crank. I went with a 1.7:1 rod/stroke ratio, I could have gone to 1.75:1 ratio, but that would have put the wrist pin under the oil ring and I did not want that because I felt it would promote oil consumption. My rod length is 5.350" for 1.7:1 and a 5.400 rod length would have made a 1.75:1 ratio. a 5.7" rod in a L28 block would put the wrist pin under all of the rings and you would never make good compression. I have many times considered doing a diesel block and going with the longer rods, but really it would just be an experiment for me. The block is I think .400 taller from the mains to the top of the deck and that way you could go with the longer rod. The engine would definetly make the torque numbers no question about that and the torque/hp figures woulf be really wacked out with the torque way higher then the Hp figures. That is not a bad thing. The consideration that I did not like to much was the RPM you could safely do with the longer rods. I would really be afraid to try to turn the engine to 7K to much myself, I guess that is why they made it a relatively slow turning diesel application. You know, I dont know, but my engine is turning out some very good torque numbers, and since I am going for the 600hp number with the engine, the torque should be very near that number depending on how you look at where you are taking your readings, at the crank or at the wheels. I like the wheels myself, because that is where the rubber meets the road, and that is what you car will end up doing at the end of the day. So 473-475 foot pounds @ 413hp is what I got, another 100Hp added to that number will be really good for my car, and that is about all I want to build. I think I want to keep the car in one piece a little longer, and those numbers are getting very near limit of the structral integrety of the chassis in my opinion.

I like what Elgin cams does with their stuff, and you can have them custom grind to your specs. I think Isky also makes a few cams for the Lseries engines. I would not suggest schnider cams in San Diego.

I am running simalar to what you have. The thing I have noticed about the grinds is that they are running out of power at the top end. Now my cam is a 266 duration, with a 112 lobe center and a lift of .485 for the intake and the exhaust. You have a little more duration and lobe center and that is going to help out the top end power. I was right in the middle of testing my grind when I found out I had a defective damper so I have been waiting to resume my testing after I get the new part. I think the 280 duration will be the key to good hp and torque on the top end, but I just have to wait and see.

I to have considered the prospects of a trigger wheel on the back of the damper. I spoke to Brian regarding that aspect of the part. I informed him that there are a number of people who are running the after market EFI systems that require a trigger wheel. I did post here a few weeks back asking the question on the size of the trigger wheels people were running but did not get much of a reply. I have examined the part, and it appears that a trigger wheel can be mounted to the back of the damper, if you look at the photos I took of the part, you will see that there is a step cut in the rear of the damper that I believe you can mount a wheel to. I am thinking 8 0r 10 4-40 counter sunk screws should do the trick, provided they are stainless steel hardware, and that should keep the wheel attached to the damper. I have to look at the part again to make sure tho. I am not sure that part of the damper is directly off of the crank, and that will be a requirement or you will never keep the timing correct. I realize the best spot for the trigger wheel is at the rear of the part so that if like you mentioned a belt goes south it doesn't take out the trigger in the process. I am going to speak to brian regarding this option and run this information by him.