jeffp

Sorry for the hassle Cody, but you are going through all the stuff most of us went through before we said screw it and did it ourselves. I made my flanges out of mild steel and out od 304 SS The SS flange was a tough one. I ended up eating at leastone endmill per flange. If you decided to go with SS and have a shop do the work, tell them not to take more then .050 per cut or they WILL eat the mill up before they have completed the job, no question about it. Take your time and you will get what you want. Your welder will work well for the pipe. I would recommend the gasless welding wire, it seems to burn a little hotter then the standard Argon wire. It is a dirty weld, but you can grind off the excess easily with a die grinder, 47.00 or so for a good Mikita grinder at home depot. When you make your flange, the ones Scottie has look excellent, but there is more machining done there then need be. Once you get the four holes made and the outer radious for the holes(taken from the stock DP) you then can use a strait edge and just draw a strait line from one radious to the other. That really helped me out on the machining because I was able to use a belt sander to make the outside edge of the flange, and it lookes very good on the car. Then scribe the center circle, and I would suggest 2 1/2" because it will seal excellent, and take that to the machine shop and have them cut the hole. The other thing I would suggest is on the DP side of the flange, cut the hole 2.600" .300" deep so you can open up the 2 1/2" pipe to a 2.600 OD and tap it into the flange, that way, the smallest hole dia in the flange will be 2 1/2" That worked out very well for me, true the nuts and washers are cloes to the pipe, but they will tighten excellent, and you can use a cheapy open end wrench (cut it to about 4" long) and be able to tighten the bolts down. I would also suggest using SS nuts and flat washers, just be sure not to really torque on them as they will be very difficult to remove in the future if you want to removwe them. That was a lesson I learned, they dont have to be torqued to seal and stay tight. I really wish there were more guys that want to buy my system because it turned out so killer, but I have a minimum build of 15 that my bender will do for me and I just haven't gotten that many people who wanted one. anyway have fun with it, and consider yourself lucky on this one, allot of us spent allot of money to witness a muffler shop hack together a 3" system and paid big bucks for it in the process.

I just weighed one. The tranny w/o the shifter, bell housing is 75 lbs. the bell housing with clutch arm, throw out bearing is 25 pounds. in short 100 pounds ready to install.

looks like one of the center main caps went out to lunch. Thats why the 4 bolt main block is used for serious power. I got to se a sb chevy with part of the block missing in the rear of the engine after it detonated the main cap, no pretty. That was a twin turbo setup, wonder how much hp it was making before it went?

There is also another exhaust header that has been made. the unit is made from SS 14 Ga equil length tubes with the T4 flange. The proto is completed and it looks excellent. I will contact Steven Monday and get the rest of the information on the unit and when it will be readyt to sell.

I worked on the car today to get back pressure readings before I got rid of my turbo. I was wondering what it was doing, and the readings were lower then I thought they were going to be. I was pushing 22psi of boost and I took the car to 7K in third gear for one of the tests, and 4k in forth gear. The highest pressure reading I go was 23 psi of back pressure. So in answer to the long awaited question regarding the stock .63 A/R exhaust turbine housing. Yes you can push the engine to 500Hp with the stock exhaust manifold and the stock exhaust turbine housing provided it is ported and the turbo exhaust turbine housing is machined to 2 1/2" (even the waste gate cover REED) and if you are running a good exhaust. Now it is time to take the car apart and start in on the last of the modifications the car is going to get.

I just got some more info on the housing. The outlet hold is 2.750" and that is not machined. The housing has no internal waste gate provision. I guess this part was an aftermarket part for the 280z >I am writing with reference to the 300 ZX Turbine housing. We have what we believe a new housing here in stock. It is a .81 a/r housing from a Rotomaster unit. It has the round flange four stud downpipe configuration and the correct exhaust manifold flange. so that is the part.

Yes in my quest for the much sought after and extremely difficult to find Nissan 300zx (single turbo) exhaust turbine housing, I have been able to locate a NEW part. What is it worth in your opinion?? I can get the part for about 450.00 plus shipping. This is a done deal if someone really wants it. I kinda think it is a little high in price myeslf.

Jim Wolf Technology has a oring fuel rail, and a FPR to go with the rail that is agjustable to 4 bar. Not a bad setup and it is plug and play on the L series engines. Tell them Jeff Priddy sent you.

That B the one. I have wanted to do this upgrade for a long time on my car.

The stock steel line has NO restrictor in the line, so it will dump as much oil into the turbo as the banjo fitting will let it. Read my first post on the line and that is what I did with my line, it turned out very well. I dont believe using a 3" pipe for a 1/4" hole, stupid in my opinion. Use the correct size line/ pipe/ conector for the job, anything bigger starts to look stupid, and when you start buying steel braided line expensive also getting the larger line.

I considered using the -3 line, but I could only get the -3 in teflon line. I was no to excited about the use of that type configuration line. Also the 1/4" NPT fittings and steel fittings for the -4 works very well with the higher heat areas of the turbo. Restrict the line to .080 and you wont go wrong.

You could have something there James. I really dont like the stock manifold at all either. I do know that Robello did build an engine similar to mine that hit 606 on the dyno, I dont know what the total run looked like, but it did hit 600. The 50mm unit is a total joke. I called the guy and he started his quote in the 2k range for the part, nice to be able to clock the part, but not for that much money. I think the 46mm unit will do well on the car, I am just not sure about the mounting of it. I really need on in my hand to put up to the car to see just what it is going to take. I can get the part with the flanges for 549.00 with a .8 bar spring. I am also going to get the 1.3 bar spring for an additional 25.00 (quite a spring there) I did have some questions on the ability to run stock boost 7-8 psi and still be able to run the waste gate up to 30psi or so. There seems to be some confusion on the matter as to how do you run the lines. I have a Blitz dual VBC controller. I called thm and what I need to do is run the turbo out line into the top of the waste gate and take the side inlet to the waste gate to the controller module and from there to the intake, before the throttle body. If my thinking is correct, then I should be able to operate the gate at the lower pressure with the softer spring, because in effect when I pressurize both sides of the waste gate with the same pressure, then we have about an 8 pound spring holding the gate closed, then as I adjust the controller and it bleeds off some of the pressure to the one side of the gate, the boost pressure will force the gate open after it overomes the spring pressure of 7-8 psi. Sound right to you??? I like the tial unit, it is more expensive then the HKS unit or others, but it is made of stainless steel and the top is in anadized aluminum, very high quality part for the money, and it comwes with all the mounting hardware in and out of the unit. I think it is a good deal. Waht do you think? All I can say is thias is going to get tight in the exhaust side of the car, but I think I can work it and not make it look like crap in the process. There really is allot of work to do on the car with the tranny install and all that stuff, and I dont think at this point with the final upgrades that I can just try to do one at a time and get away with that. The moving the engine really does concern medoable, I believe so, but I havent done it yet so I am not totally 100% sure everything is going to go the way I envision it to go, you know it's "the Z " unrelenting and pissy about everything LOL

Ok everyone, I just got off the phone with Jason, the pump is two weeks out from completion. They have the adapter in the machine as we speak, so looks like everything for me is going to come at once. Zelda is going to be a new car again, including some paint I just finished up. Needs a good wash tho, there is buffing compound everywhere, the engine, the windows, the garage wall LOL anyway. I guiess I better get on to the radiator work now for the car.

I spoke to Brian again regarding the completion of the dampener and it is looking like about another 3 weeks for the part to be ready to be sold. There will be two options for the part, one unit with the third pully for the A/C, and one part without the pully for the A/C. I asked about the possibility of installing the various manufacturer triggering devices for after market fuel management system and it would appera that the dampener will work well for this application also. One tf the things that are required to make the dampener SFI approved is that the elastimer portion of the dampener has to be captivated, menaing that even it it does go bad it will not fly off the defective part. The really good part to this is that it will be captivated by a ring in front of the dampener and bolted down to the hub. What this means for the after marker systems, is that this part can be removed, have the magnets installed in the part and reinstalled on the dampener. This makes the part usable for almost any application on the zcars. I am confident this is an excellent solution to the on going problems with the Nissan parts and is the very best solution regarding money investment and versitality of a component for our cars. Have a good one guys and Gals.

Thank you all for your replies. I think I found what I am looking for on this one today. I was thinking about the 45mm unit, but I found another 50mm unit that I like a little better. The 50mm unit is attached with a V band type configuration and I think the ability to clock the unit very beneficial. But with the option and larger unit, the price goes up as well. I have just about gotten this thing figured out in my haed to what I am going to do. I was able to find a exhaust turbine housing that is the T3 flange with a .70 A/R so that is better then the standard Nissan housing, as I do believe The back pressure on the system is starting to get to unacceptable leavels. I am going to try to get a gauge on the thing and get som accurate data for all of you as well myself. This new turbine housing will be different in the outlet area. There is no provision for an internal waste gate, so that is the reason for the new(expensive sucker) external unit. The thing that really appeals to me is that it will be setup with a full3" pipe outlet that is also attached by a v band type configuration. I also like this option as I will be able to make minor adjustments to the clocking of the down pipe off the back of the turbo to make up for any little tweeks I will need to do on the install. I dont have this option currently on the down pipe as I welded the flange to the pipe after I positioned the pipe where I wanted it. Since I am just about decided on the Tremec tranny, I am going to have to move the engine back 1 1/4"-1 1/2" to compensate for the shorter shifter position on the tranny so this added adjustment on the down pipe, I think, will be very beneficial. Additionally, moving the engine back will help to compensate for the center of gravity of the car, which right now is a little off due to the design of the car from Nissan. This to is very beneficial in the handeling and the way the car will hook up on a good run. The problem I am having is that I still have not gotten a dampener for the engine and I am chicken to really push it hard to get a good test. But there again I was running for a number of miles and it was bad and I did not know it. I have sold my turbo to craig, and I really need to get that out to him, he is a a great guy and hasn't gotten to upset by all of the setbacks on getting him his part. I really want to get the back pressure data first. I have looked and asked all over the palce and could not find anyone that has some hard data on excatly what the stock Nissan housing is doing with the hybrid steup and the stage 5 exhaust turbine wheel. I do find that hard to believe, but it seems to be the case, unless there is someone of you out there that has the data and it is accurate. anyway, thanks again. Jeffp

I have looked onthe net for one of these units and could not find anything for a web page. I need to get a look at one of these units as I am going to go with it if I can get it in my car without cutting the whole engine compartment away LOL anyway if anyone has a pic I would appreciate it.

You can run the -6 line, but the reality of it is the line is much to large for the turbo oil feed. The -4 line is more the sufficient for the turbo oil, in fact if you constrict the line to a .080 oil feed hole that is better. The problem with the excessive oil is that it tends to get past the bearing seals and fills up the intire intake system up with this nice heavy coat of oil. Very mucky, and greasy, to say the least. I am running the stock Nissan fitting off the turbo(for the stock Banjo fitting) and what I did was to go with a -4 (steel) 1/4" NPT fitting. I realize that the hold in the fitting is large, but if you tap into the fitting so that the NPT fitting seats/tightenes at almost the end of the threads, and use teflon tape the fitting will seal very well. You will have to file the excessive overhang of the fitting off of the mating surface to the turbo, but that as I said worked out very well. On the block side, again you will have to drill the fitting where the hardline fitting went, and drill it deep enough the be able to tap the fitting enough, then again the 1/4" NPT STEEL fitting from Earls works out very well. Also, if you decide to constrict the oil feed line then what you can do is tap the ID hole in the NPT fitting with a 6mm tap, use a chassis bolt screw that into the new threads and twist off the bolt, yes snap it off with over torque, then file the fitting end flat again and drill out the newly installed bolt with a .080 dia tap and install all of it together. Make SURE you have removed all of the iron filings and the drill filings and you are in there. Then you will have a really cool install, buy 4 of the -4 clamps with the mounting screws. Color is up to you, remove the mounting bracket that is on the stock steel line that mounts to the bell housing, and the side of the block and secure the new line with the old hardware. VERY clean install I must say.

That is a good combo, trhat is bsically what I am running now. The only thing I would change out is the compressor housing. Try a To4E housing, it will flow a little better then the B housing, but more importantly, with the E housing you will gain a little more efficency, and you will get a cooler air charge form the bigger housing, less chance of detonation. The main thing is the cooler air coming out of the turbo.

There can be a number of reasons for turbo lag. You really did not provide much information as to when the turbo starts to spool or anything like that so let me try to explain from what my car did stock. First of all the vacuum, is not an issue with the turbo, but the -20 psi indicates you are running a stock cam, and you have all the vacuum lines good, ok there. Now there are two conditions you are dealing with on the non boost conditions(the time/engine RPM) before the turbo starts working. On the stock 280zxt, the turbo should start to spool by 2200 rpms, and when you get to 2500 rpms, you should easily be able to floor it and the turbo will got to what ever boost level you have set, or stock levels 7psi. A bad turbo will screech when it starts to spool, you will be able to hear it in the car and it may or may not continue during the whole time the turbo is producing boost depeanding on how bad off it is. So if you are doggy, before you come up on boost and you know it is bad, then it is a fuel management problem, and nothing to do with the turbo. If you come up on boost and you can see it is boosting, and there is just nothing there when you push the gas then you need to look at why you have insufficient fuel. That is another whole topic for dicussion. If you are getting air as read by the gauge, and the car is not going, then it will be fuel related. The rear gears, why the 3:90 gear set??? That makes a bad daily driver, the engine RPMs will be to high for driving down the road going to work or something like that. Additionally, regarding the turbo, you need to load the engine down to get the turbo going, and it has been said the 3:90 gear set hurts the ability of the turbo to boost. Myself I have never tried those gears. I ran the 3:54 and the 3:71 gears, that are in the car now. My turbo is spooled to 20psi @ 3000 rpms. hope that helps you.

I have a tranny I am going to d ofor a guy to install in his 75. I am not to worried about the tranny, or the clutch stuff, but Waht I need to know is about the Drive line, the cross member, the speedo, and importantly the shifter. I would like to get some input from guys htat have done this install in their cars. I do believe he is going to be running the R180 diff so SPECIFIC information on the drive line and cross member is very much desired. I really want this to be agood install for him as his car is very nice and I want to provide him with all of the ACCURATE information to make the tranny fit clean, and the shifter to be positioned correctly, and for the speedo to read the correct speed. I haven't gotten into the 280z cars or earlier for that matter, but it seems I am somehow getting dragged into providing solutions for these type installs. I guess it is time to start a note book to keep all this stuff strait. Anyway, you guys and Gals that have done this install please give me some info on what I need to look for to get a 5 speed into this nice Zcar. Also, a recommendation on gear ratio would be helpful, he wants a good rpm on the freeway because it is going to be a high performance daily driver, somewhere in the 300hp range would be a good range to think about. ALL information will be much appreciated. Jeff

I use the cutoff wheel and wrap masking tape (1/4) wide tape) aroundthe spot I want to cut. I also install the line in a vice to help with getting a perpendicular cut to the line. That method worked out very well for me. I did not have to try to hold the line, and could concentrate on getting a strait cut, and more importantly not nail myself with the cutoff wheel. One thing about using the cutoff wheel, you will need to clean the inside of the line, and I guess with using a hacksaw as well, so you dont get any crap to the injector pinacles and plug the injectors.

Give Dave Robello a call at Robello racing, he just had a unit made for the racers he does engines for. The dampener/pully is made by BHJ and it is excellent quality and workmanship.

according to the drive line shop I was talking to the 2-2-1819 and the 2-2-1899 have the 10mm bolt holes, and there is a 50mm on center bolt distance. There is also anotherv flange that has a 55mm bolt hole center to center, that is also a 10mm bolt. Both of the parts have the 1.969 pilet diameter and both support the 1310 universal joint. I was in the junk yard today and looked at a couple of cars. an 84 300zx that had the same flange as my 280ZXT car, and a 85 I think it was with 50mm bold holes center to center that was an 8mm hole. the 2-2-899-1 flange I just bought has a 8mm bolt hole, so I am guessing it fits the smaller 300zx flanges, I cant be for sure on this as I did not measurethe pilet. I called Nissan and tried to order the 87 300ZXT LSD flange, but they are on back order, so I am guessing they are NLA. I was able to get a flange from a guy I sold a diff to that has the 300ZXT flange, and I am going to swap out my flange from my 280ZXT with him because that is what he is running anyway. confusing tho, I have to admit. I will figure this out when I get the flange from the LSD diff and go from there, I do know the 2-2-899-1 part has 8mm bolts a 2. ???" pilet and they will fit what looks like to be a standard r200 diff in a 280, but there again I cant be sure. there are just to many different variations on all the drive lines. What I want is the 55mm bolt spacing with the 10mm mounting bolts with the spicer flange that will fit the 1310 universal joint. That would be the best setup and it will work out very well with this Tremec install and it's companion yoke out of the tranny. Thats what I am shooting for.

I just got the 2-2-899-1 part and it has 8mm bolts. I would nt even consider trying to put 500hp to that part. My stock 280zxt (83) flange has a bigger bolt pattern, and it uses 10mm bolts. I could have swarn the 300zxt had a 10mm bolt pattern also. I think I will call Nissan andget a answer that way. I dont want to getthis stuff screwed up again, and from the earlier post here they said to get one part and it would appear that it is not acceptable for my application. Oh well, never fails, every time I try to get some information it is all screwed up and I end up finding out the hard way. If anyone can tell me the part munber of the flange that is used on the 300ZXT LSD diff let me know. Also if anyone knows the part number of the flange adapter the is used on the 83 ZXT car I think that would be a better fit. Both parts need to fit the 1310 spicer universal joint.

Now that is going extreme on a 280zx car for sure. I have often thought of doing just that to the car, but what stopped me was I wanted to keep it as origional as possible and still get the performance out of it. With a setup like that, if you link the front to hte back correctly you should be able to pot some real power through the car and turn some killer times. Are you planning on running this on the street much? A good tin knocker should be able to seal up the rear again. I think the viper guy sure would be surprised. It would be rally cool to run a 800-900 hp engine and hide it under the hood, never happen tho, but then again it sure would look killer with a good blower with a good injection system instaled. What about blown, fuel injected with NOS, to killer. Get a good automatic behind the engine and some 390 gears and you will be a real adversary on the track. I dont think the honda guys would be very interested in running you LOL. That is a really cool start on a real drag 280zx car. have fun with it.