jeffp

You should be able to get much better shipping then that on those parts. The cost of the clutch and flywheel is about right.

Well according to the chart, @ 8.5:1 I am up around 15.5:1 under boost. Needless to say I have to run race fuel for that compression. I can get by on C12 I think it is 108 octane. 92 octane, I can run up to about 11psi of boost.

Hi Cody, well there really is one option for you at this point with the T5 in your car. I have found out the G Force is doing a new gear set for the tranny ans it is suspose 5to be much stronger. Call them and tell them what is happening to your tranny and see what they say. The only other option is to do a retro in a TKO or TKO2 or possibly a T56 tranny. Then there is the option of a Chevy Automatic tranny. in fact I just may know of a turbo 400 tranny setup you may be able to get for your car. I will call and find out about that.

Hi Yasin, I know exactly what you were talking about the chuckle, REEEEEEEEEEEEEally pissed. Anyway, go to Kragen and get the Felpro gasket (it should be black comp material) and buy some of the permatex super gray sealer. I highlt recommend this sealer for any application especially with aluminum. Use the sealer on both sides of the gasket. Tighten down the pan so thatthe gasket just starts to squeze out, maybe 1/32 of an inch. That will seal the pan excellent. One thing to check first though. Make sure the bolt holes are flat and not pushed and bent above the rest of the sealing surface. Also make sure where the pan lip was bent somewhat, and they always bend getting them off, is flatened to make the sealing surface flat again. You can use a strait edge to check it for flatness. You do that and it will seal tighter then a drum, no mo problems!

I knew I was a gonner for any kind of standard clutch material after my first dyno pull. So I started calling around and found Superior Friction at the recommendation of Dave Robello. I spoke to Robin there and told him how much power I was putting to the clutch, he was a little unbelieving at that point. He said he would give me a discount if I provided him with a dyno pull to use as advertising for his setups I said ok. He was a believer after that. He recommended a Kevlar and matallic disc and made the pressure plate himself to go with the disc. That thing was a pain in the butt when I first installed it. I drove it on the dir and could not get the car going without doing a burnout, and it was not much better on the street, but I got the unit broke in and am able to slip it somewhat to get the car moving. It's not to bad to drive now. The clutch held 475 foot pounds of torque on the dyno and I was happy with that, but when I finally get the engine to whare I want it, the torque will be really pushing it with this setup as well. Robin does have a solution for me, but I dont think I am going to like it LOL. There is one area where you CANT have your cake and eat it to, and that is the clutch. Oh well the price of going fast right? I have a picture of the clutch on my web page under the custom stuff thumbnail.

I can see your point and would agree. However I still revert back to what I stated in the first place. The Center Force clutch is not worth the 252.00 out the door for a disc and pressure plate. The clutch gave out at 380 dfoot pounds of torque, end of discussion. The stock Nissan 240mm unit is as good if not better then what Center Force sells. And as for the 90% over stock claim, I would really question that statement. My stock clutch that was on the car for 200K, and I installed the new disc(which I will add didnt need replacing) held the power just fine, in fact I sold the assembly to a guy on zcar forum, and when I took the clutch out of the car, the engraved writing on the disc was 95% intact. I was running the car the same way as the center Force unit. Do what you want, but for me to take a tranny out of my car for a slipping clutch, it better have some significant miles on the unit. NOT 1500-or whatever. So its your choice, and if you go with Center Force I really hope it weorks out for you, but for me I hate taking the tranny out of my car and to do it just after I bought the thing is totally unacceptable.

I had proper break in on the clutch just for your information. What I failed to mention in my post is that the first time I installed my clutch, the POS disc was hitting the flywheel bolts, where right on the spring retaining part of the disc. I put 600 miles on that thing normal driving, after I got it to go into gear right after I installed it. So I had to take it apart for something again and that is when I found out what really happened. I called CF and they had NO answer for me as to WHY their part was not configured to fit a STOCK setup on my turbo car. WHAT DID I DO??????????? I sent the whole assemblt to CF flywheel, pressure plate, disc and the flywheel bolts. I dont know what they did to the part, but it was not hitting when I got it back, BUT I CAN TELL YOU ONE THING. I paid for the shipping both ways on the parts and that cost me about 70.00 They did NOT replace the clutch and just made sure it would not hit on another install of the STOCK application. So NOW smartass, here is the story! 185Hp stock, let me see 90% more holding so that is 185 X .90=166.5 so you add that together and you get 351Hp I was running 15psi of boost on a stock 200K engine. Think smarty I was making the poor little CF clutch work to hard, I dont, and if that clutch can hold 15psi of boost then I revert back to my first post, the clutch is not worth the powder to blow it away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got MUCH better results with a stock Nissan clutch in the first place. I would suggest to you that you state your comments and forgo the smartass comments. Rest assured, I know how to put power to the ground and what it takes to do so. Had Center Force represented their product in the first place I would have NEVER considered utilizing their product in the first place. Additionally, I called CF customer service when the clutch started slipping, and the comment I got from the guy there was that they could only handle about 250Hp and I did mention the fact that they stated they held 90% more power and called him on it. He had NO answer for me, so again I revert back to my first post, the CENTER FORCE CLUTCH IS NOT WORTH THE POWDER TO BLOW IT AWAY! so put that in yoyur pipe and smoke it!

I have looked at that configuration a number of times, but for myself, I did not want to have the IC tubes running the width of the car in front of the radiator. My approach was to get them installed in the most non intrusive way possible. I didn't want to have to deal with the fan, shroud, the belts, and replacing parts, and have to remove the IC parts to do anything. That is why I went the way I did, to get full access to the engine components and not have to fool with the IC piping once it was installed.

>Do yourself a favor and don't waste the money on a Centerforce clutch. I have the heaviest 240mm DF in my turbo 240 and I'm not happy with it. It's OK under normal use, but even on street tires, sometimes it will slip when you have solid traction. I know that I'm not the only one who has experienced this. If I dump it at 4K, its alright on slicks, but if I try to walk it out on street tires, it won't hook up. I guess that it bites OK if you drop it, but if you slip it a bit, it won't hook up for a long time. That's the best way that I can explain it. I could not agree more. I bought the CF DF unit and thought it would work, well it did for about 700 miles, 600 of which were on the highway. I ran the car on the dyno and it gave out at 380 foot pounds of torque. Not worth the powder to blow it away in my opinion.

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page2.html Go to the end of the page and I listed pics of how I installed my IC pipes. I ran 2 1/4" pipes and they work out well on the car.

Hi everyone, well I installed the 60-2 tooth trigger wheel on the damper. Good fit. I have all the vrackets made to install a new EFI system on the car. The Damper will fit ALL nissan L series engines, including the 4 bangers I believe. Anyway if you have any questions on the part give Brian a call and he can answer all of your questions.

I have all of the information you could want on the stock nissan housing, how to configure the turbo for the best results. I also have a good new housing that is ready for a stage V exhaust turbine wheel. mrjeff1@sbcglobal.net

I was running the 130 speedo and I got my car to 5500 in fifth, on a stock T5 and 3.70 gears and stock tire heigth. I figured it was around 145 or so. The car strill gets light on the steering at that speed, so there is still some work needed in that area to keep the front on the pavement. Ok I just did the calculator deal at http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ and it indicated I was doing 152mph @5500 rpm So I was running 205 X60 X15 tires, 3.70 gears, and a .750 overdrive in the T5 No wonder it seemed a little light LOL.

Hi Ken, give Brian a call at BHJ and have him pull the drawings. That is the best way to get the information.

Hi there, well you dont need twin turbo's to get that kind of response that you want from the engine. Ask James what it took to get dual turbo's going on hic car, real pain in the butt. You can run 20psi all day long with a TO4E turbo configured properly. I made 413hp and 475 foot pounds of torque at the wheel with that turbo. How much is good for you? I can tell you one thing, with that much hp, you will need to reconfigure the entire running gear, tranny, diff, especially the clutch, and beef up the stub axels and make damn sure you have at least the cv half shafts. Believe me, that will keep you busy for some time. Then you will need to do work on the oil pan because if you get the car hooked up and moving with that power, the stock oil pan will run the sump dry because it throws the oil in the pan away from the pickup. You will destroy the drive line in short order if it is stock. One BIGGY, you will need a better braking system as the stock system will not work worth a damn. So you see, to build, and it is very doable, kind of hp and torque requires just about rebuilding the whole running gear and the brakes and suspension. The injectors, well I would recommend 72lb injectors for that application. They will provide you with that power and more. Or if you want smaller you can go with 550cc injectors and that will work as well, but you may have to run the fuel pressure higher to get the flow volume you require, and if you go that way, you will have to work on the fuel delivery system to ensure the fuel pump will flow sufficient fuel to the injectors at whatever boost levels you want to run, no guess work here, do a functional setup on your system to make sure it is delivering the required fuel. You can see some of the crap I did to my car to get the results I wanted, and I am still not done. http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt hope that helps.

I have worked on tow cars with timing belts. The 60K replacement is the time to do it. My Volvo went at 62K A honda went at 65K So since you have a very good chanvce of smacking the pistons on many cars when the timing belt slips it is better safer then sorry. L's dont have a balt, but a chain. VG30's have a belt and they also go just about at 60K and they do smack the valve on the piston when they go. Very expensive fix for not wanting to spend 35-60 dollars on a belt.

First off you NEVER want to bore a L28 block to get 3.1 liter, in fact you will bore through the cylinder walls trying to get a bore big enough with a stock crank to make 3.1 liters. You will need an LD 28 crank (83mm stroke) and 89mm pistons to get to 3.1 liter. BUT, I dont recommend boring a turbo engine to 89mm as the cylinder walls become to thin in my opinion. Bore the block to 88mm and build a 3.0 liter. The displacement and hp difference is not worth the possible results with the turbo engine. A good turbo will get you 20psi of spool @ 3K rpms, that is excellent, so if you want to call that lag ok, but it is very usable power. I would recommend using Robello racing for your engine build. In fact they have used my engine model to do that kind of setup. My engine runs very well. I dont think I will EVER see 600hp at the rear wheels in my car, and if for some reason I did want to build that much RWHP for my car, hp and torque being a linear scale, I would be putting out well over 700 foot pounds of torque in the car. I dont need that much power, it would force me to rebuild the chassis of the car, and that isnt going to happen. Speak to Dave and he will give you the quote, and if you want a really hot turbo setup I can do that for you as well.

on your second link, the picture explains it all. Under pressure, the valve closes, but in the L engine configuration, the blowby pressure then goes to the valve cover hole and down into the intake to be recirculated. there is the oil problem, it gets sucked up into the intake and clogges up everything. Dirty dirty oil LOL.

I have just bought the same can you did Cody (the guy is a flake, and gouges on the shipping) But the reason I am interewsted in the catch can is that my engine appears to be using oil. I have noted this ever since the engine has been rebuilt. I spoke to Davr Robello regarding the ptroblem and he suggested it was sucking oil under vacuum, from boost to vacuum type situation. First thing, the stock nissan *# uses the flapper type AFM, so if you open up the top of the valve cover, you create a big vacuum leak (AFTER the AFM) so the flapper closes and kills the fuel for the most part. If you open up the PCV valve, again you create a big vacuum leak @ the intake after the T/B this may or may not kill the engine, but you will have a very lean condition. The idea behind the PCV is to REMOVE leaked gases past the rings when the cylinder fires. Do this turn your engine over and you can hear the hissing, that is ring blowby, and that is not anywhere near the pressure that is produced when the mixture fires off. You get spent fuel and combustion deposits past the rings, and that builds up on the block, and engine components, not to mention in the oil. The valve cover breather, again is designed to remove any air pressure from within the engine, VIA the intake after the AFM in the rubber boot, pipe however you like to call it. Here is the problem with the turbo cars. The turbo experiences a much wider range of potiential pressure and vacuum in the engine. THE PCV is critical that it is operating correctly, or you will pressureize the engine with the boost pressure. YOU NEED THE PCV! in a turbo application. But what I think is happening in my case is that I am sucking oil from either the valvecover or the PCV and it is being spent in the combustion cycle, causing excessive oil consumption. I know I am getting oil from somewhere because when I took off the intake, I could see the oil deposits on the intake ports, before the valve and all that neat stuff. I need to stop this from happening. The catch can is the answer. Bottom line is that EVERY engine needs the PCV valve to clean out the crap that is developed from ring blowby. My recommendation is to filter the valve cover opening, run the PCV into a catch can and leave it hooked up. I will note one thing tho, with all of the filters I have seen on the L series engines, there is ALWAYS some oil residue by the filter on the valve cover, that tells me you should use the catch can, or just clean up the oil on a regular basis.

I looked at your pics, very good idea. One thing that occured to me, and it still may be the best option for you. I read you were going to use the Grand National pump. You can use a Nissan 90-96 300zx fuel sender unit, and if you want some really consistant and good fuel pressure a twin turbo fuel pump in the sender. I run a twin turbo fuel pump in my car, and that is without question the best fuel pump you will find. I have run my fuel pressure to 4 Bar and 25psi of boost and that pump delivered 3300cc's per minute of fuel under 83psi of fuel pressure. NO other pump I found was able to deliver that much fuel at that pressure, and believe me, I called just about every manufacturer. The cool thing is, that you will have the Nissan sender, the Nissan pump, and I believe it would be the easiest way to mount the fuel pump inlet sock in the tank, baffel the sides in the tank for cornering, run the return stock for the sender and your in there.

The 6A is a good unit. I got it myself for the multi spark andthe ability to run a bigger coil. I have had zero problems with the unit. I will say one thing tho, under high boost I had to set the plug gap to .025 to stop misfires.

I noticed my flange on the passenger side was lose. there was no play in the stub but the flange was lose. I tightened the nut and sure enough it was lose. I dont think it was ever tightened down from the factory. I did replace the flange just to be sure. So try to tighten it down and see how it feels.

lets get something cleared up here. end play is the movement from the turbine wheel froward and backward in the turbo. The exhaust wheel and turbine wheel is on the same shaft. Runout is the movement up and down in the housing. Turbo,s for ther most part have runout due to the bearing configuration. end play should be very minimual, not more then a couple thousands at the most.

Dave builds a very good engine. I had him build to my specs. Could you do me a favor though. I am interested in the "long Rods" that was mentioned in your post. Could you give them a call and get the length of the rod they are using and from where. I am Very curious about it, and if you can get that information for me I can give you a very good idea of what to expect from your engine. REGARDS: Jeffp mrjeff1@sbcglobal.net

Hi everyone, I have been looking at some posts regarding a downpipe and am going to offer this option on the pipe I designed. I will do another run of pipes (15 pieces minimum) however, this time I think I will let you do some of the work and reduce the price of the pipe. I will also do the cat back pipe if I can get the minimum 15 piece order. I will have the pipe made and that is what I will do. I will not make the flanges or gaskets and brackets this time. I will provide the drawing for the flange and leave it up to you to have a machine shop make the flange and the gasket. I will leave it up to you to make the mounting bracket at the tranny tail shaft. I sold the pipe for 385.00 plus tax last time and the boxes and shipping was about 60-100 dollars depending where it was shipped to. So, I will do the pipe for 300.00 plus tax and the boxing and shipping will be the same as I will have to buy boxes and build them again and ship them as well. This is the best I can do at this point with the system. I spent many many hours making and building the last run and it really was a hassle, so if you are willing to do some of the work yourself I will provide the pipe for you. Let me know Via email and I will see what kind of response I get.