jeffp

send me a mail and I will add you to the list. also tell me exactly what parts you want.REGARDS

I everyone, I spoke to Brian a BHJ last week and he sent me out the proto damper. I have received the part and listed it on my web page at http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page24.html This will give you a very good idea of the quality and the construction of the part. Brian was finishing up the heat testing on the part at Robello racing with an engine they had on the dyno. The first run of ten parts will be completed here in about a week. So this is what I have been doing and waiting for.

Hi all, I am sending this mail again because I haven't gotten much response to my last mail. I got responses from three people regarding the system/downpipe. I have about 31 people who have expressed an interest in at least the downpipe, so that is why I took the time to get the parts (proto) back to the bender to have them requoted. I need to know who wants the part guys. It is looking like the middle of or end of April that I will be able to get the run going for the parts. One of the buyers has to wait until then to get the funds. I don't have a problem with that in the least, it will give the rest of you to decide if you want the part or not. The thing is, I need at least 15 people who want the part in order to do a run, so if I cant get that many people from the 30 contacts I have kept then the group buy is not going to happen anyway. Let me know one way or the other if you are interested in the part and if you are not, no problem, I will delete you from the list. On a final note, I have offered this system one other time here about a year ago and got a better response. Based on what I am getting for responses this time, I think this is the last time I am going to offer the system/downpipe. If I could get the bender to do a one off build for me that would be one thing, but they wont, so now is the time to get the system/downpipe if you want it or have wanted it. I realize some of you think it is expensive, and maybe you have a valid point, but let me remind you that this is the very best system you will be able to get for your car hands down. When you look at the cost of materials it becomes very apparent why it cost so much, the stainless steel materials are about 8 times more expensive as compared to mild steal. This is a one time deal for your car (unless you go with some really weird turbo setup or something like that) the system will last no problems. Finally, guys I have spent numerous hours designing the system, building the proto, I have spent my personal funds on materials, machine work, bending work, going the extra distance and making the stainless steel O2 bungs (and they don't make them I can buy in stainless steel) buying the materials to put this system together. The reason was two fold, I wanted a killer system for my car, which I have gotten, and I wanted all the rest of you to have a killer system for your cars as well. This system will support all applications, even my application and design of my upgraded engine to 600Hp, and that is what motivated me to take the time and spend the money like I have on this system, hell I even dynode the system to show you the results you can get even with a bone stock engine. So if you want it, lets get this thing put together, and I will get you the very best system money can buy, and I am QUITE sure you will not be disappointed with the parts when you get them in your hands, and install them on your cars. And if not, then hell with it, I have better things to do with my time then to spend hours on the freeways, talk my machinist friend into letting me proto some parts, and waste my gas running down a system that no one wants. So let me know guys, and I will consider this a dead issue and go on my merry way and be just happy doing that. You can get a look at the system on my page at http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page11.html and bear in mind the system you are looking at is the proto. The completed system is all tig welded and looks killer no question about that. REGARDS: Jeff Priddy

Well I just got the call regarding my tranny. Here is what was done to it and its parts for install. The company is Keisler Automotive the head guy there is Sheffi, he has done all the work on my tranny. the phone number is (865) 609-8187 tell him Jeff Priddy sent you if you are interested. The shifter was moved back to 22 1/2" from the front of the tranny. The stock configuration was 19 1/2" so it will fit the car now. The thing that was done with the input shaft was that I sent in a stock roller bearing for the Nissan tranny, and they made a roller bearing to fit the TKO2 input shaft and the Nissan crank. I went this way because the only other way would have been to turn down the input shaft and since they are case hardened it would have made the shaft to soft and you would run the risk of it breaking. (NOTE: I did talk to the guy at Hanlen motorsports and his solution was to turn the shaft down, and I would not recomment this option) The next thing that was done was the throwout bearing on the stock bearing retainer collar. The throwout bearing had to be turned abouut .015 to fit the collar correctly. That is what I did, all of this cost me 2700.00 a few hundred more then just the stock tranny, but well worth the investment, seeing I dont have to hack the car, and all of the stock components for the clutch and bell housing is utilized. The last three things I will have to do is mate the tranny to the bell housing and do the mounting holes, and I dont see any real problem with that in the least. Mount the tail shaft mount, and again that should be relitively easy. I was thinking of just moving the brackets that are spot welded to the chassis if need be, and make the cross member out of rectangular stock or square stock which ever fits the best. Then the drive line is not a problem, I have the output yoke that is comiong with the tranny, then I got the LSD flange off the Diff and Spicer makes a companion flange that utilizes the 1310 type universal joint. I have a shop that will do the drive line for me for another 200.00 so that is just about it. The very last thing, is the speedo, but there again, since it is the ford tranny, and I have the T5 already, the speedo insert should fit good, and if not I will turn that part down to size as well. Thats my story and Im sticking to it. LOL

My engine is new, and it was built by Robello racing, and balanced. I have only had the one dampener go bad on my engine. I did some calling around and found out this does happen frequently. The rpm ranges, well there again, nobody has taken the time to really look into the situation scientifically at least that I was able to find. I do know that the L28 engines and their dampeners are all sertup at the same frequency, so that much I know for a fact. The parts were frequency tested and that verified the tuning. One thing I was reading argarding the L24 engines and I thought it was curious was that they were also doing the same thing, but in this case it was at the flywheel and pressure plate. You can read the article in the new sport magazine, the crank was redesigned and it seemed to take car of the problem for the most part. They had to add the counter balances on the crank and it smoothed out the crank and vibration. BAE (I think is the company) was having a bad problem with it on their race cars.

Harmonic Balancer (Vibration Damper) The harmonic balancer, or vibration damper, is a device connected to the crankshaft to lessen the torsional vibration. When the cylinders fire, power gets transmitted through the crankshaft. The front of the crankshaft takes the brunt of this power, so it often moves before the rear of the crankshaft. This causes a twisting motion. Then, when the power is removed from the front, the halfway twisted shaft unwinds and snaps back in the opposite direction. Although this unwinding process is quite small, it causes "torsional vibration." To prevent this vibration, a harmonic balancer is attached to the front part of the crankshaft that's causing all the trouble. The balancer is made of two pieces connected by rubber plugs, spring loaded friction discs, or both. When the power from the cylinder hits the front of the crankshaft, it tries to twist the heavy part of the damper, but ends up twisting the rubber or discs connecting the two parts of the damper. The front of the crank can't speed up as much with the damper attached; the force is used to twist the rubber and speed up the damper wheel. This keeps the crankshaft operation calm.

I understand your situation and I have taken steps to fix the problem, and believe me I have been working on it for some time now. You have spent a good amount of money on your car, turbo header, TWM's and all that jazz and you a scrimping on a critical part in my opinion. The fact is that these engines need a good damper, and tha modification you have done in my opinion is defeating the purpose of the part. You may get some dampening affect, but not to the extent that may be needed. Myself, I haven't driven my car for some time until I get this issue solved. You mentioned you did not understand all that was going on with the part. well in a nut shell the story is that what ever you want to choose for a material. All materials have a resonate frequency (you can look it up in the dictionary if you like to understand better) but this is the frequency that will basically make the material start to oscillate, it is that oscillation that will make the part, break, crumble, and destroy itself. Every material has this resonate frequency, even for example sheet rock, you get the resonate frequency of the sheet rock and you will break it by projecting that frequency at the wall at the correct level, it will simply start to oscillate at that frequency and then berak. That is what is happening in your engine. That is why a damper was made. The fact of the matter is that the stock part was NEVER designed to spin at 7000 rpm levels and if it did it was for a very short time in relation to all of the other rpm ranges the average engine would see, and it was NEVER designed to spin to 7300 rpm, you would never see that on the street in a stock application. you may want to do a search on the net and see what kind of hits you get on dampener for cars. hopethat clears it up. Jeff

I looked at the viper tranny and the GM tranny. The viper is geared way ouit of range in my opinion, and the gm counterpart is not rated for enough torque. I decided on the Ford TKO2 five speed andthatwill do for my car. Guys are running 9 sceond quarters on slicks with that unit. The gearing is close to the T5 in the zxt cars also. 1st gear is a little better, and the topend @ 7K with a 3:71 rear gear set will get you to about 167mph Not to bad I think. The install is the easyiest to do also. I have just about all the stuff I need to get done to install it in my zx car.

I dont thing that is a good way to go on the rear stub axels for these cars. You will have to come up with some sort of pre load to keet the bearing in place and proper tolerances to the race. Taking into account that there is the side loading of the bearings from friction from the tires in a turn, it would seem to me the standard Nissan setup cage roler bearing would be much more suited to that application. You need the axel fixed and rotating true, you will be hard pressed to maintain that tolerance with a tapered bearing in that location on the axel. anyway, got to run just some thoughts.

First, the test pipe is removable with the couplers. I am not all together sure the down pipe will fit the first generation cars, but it is designed around the zx cars. On the zx cars it basically runs along the engine and the tranny. I cant be totally sure, but it would seem to me that it would fit the earlier gen cars as well. You can get a look at the down pipe and coupler on my web site. If you are getting a stock down pipe to work on the car, this part will work as well, in fact it is designed with an extra bend to allow for clearances. hope that helps.

I burned up my center trash on the dyno @ 375 foot pounds of torque. BYE BYE center trash. I had a clutch built that held 475 foot pounds of torque just fine from superior clutch. The disc is kevlar and a copper compound on the cover side. I have to pull it down here for a new tranny install, so I will be able to tell you how harsh it was on the flywheel. I did not have to many problems on the street, but it would not slip very well off the light, it did take some of the fun out of driving the car on the street tho. But hey, you want to play you are going to have to make compramizes on the options like the clutch unless you like tearing your tranny out every other month. I have to have the disc modified to run the TKO2 spline so I am curious what it is going to look like. I did some real hard pulls on the dyno with it.

Ok everyone, I got the quotes for the components to the complete system and the down pipe quote that will consist of the down pipe the flange and the test pipe that will go in place of the cat. I also have the cost for a single flange with the tubes that are 6" off each side of the flange assembly. The down pipe (with the test pipe) with the turbo flange and gasket is going to run 300.00 plus the shipping. The single flange with the tubes for each side of the flange is going to run 50.00 plus the shipping. The cat back pipe is going to run 150.00 and you will need to buy an additional flange if you want to run just the cat back pipe. This is whith the added cost in materials from the bender, seems the stainless and the flanges have gone up somewhat. I havent, priced the current cost of the cat or the muffler so I cant give you a cost for the complete package, but it is looking like the costs have not gone up to much on the parts, but I will have to make sure on the muffler and cat So it right now is looking like about 900.00 plus shipping for a complete system. I spoke to the bender and everything is looking good to do a run, if enough of you want the part. I have the machinest ready to start making flanges for the turbo, and about all that is left is for me to finish up making the O2 bungs (in stainless steel, not mild steel) and get the gaskets going. I am going to try these new gaskets in .040 stainless steel this time in stead of the copper gasket I made for my car. The heat seems to be just a little much for the copper. anyway, I will send everyone an email with the quotes and we will see what we get. have a good one everybody.

I was talking to Brian at BHJ regarding the dampener he has made, and he asked me about the sixe of the trigger wheel I thought would be running on the various after market systems. I did not know, but if all of you give me an idea of the trigger wheel size you are running on your system I would appreciate it. I am helping Brian to get the damper set up to accomidate the various trigger wheels for the different systems out there. Also, what are your thoughts on the front of the damper VS the rear of the damper for the wheel?

you could be in some danger of the part seperating. I will say tho, that Robello spins his engines to 8500 rpm for the cars they build engines for, and according to Dave the Euro damper (or dampener which ever suits your fancy) was lasting 5 to 6 races.

Robello had a new part designed and made. The EURO dampener was only lasting 5-6 races and it also seperated according to Dave Robello.

A couple of things here that I noticed in some of the posts. The mounting of the trigger wheel should NEVER be attached to the pully, in other words, the trigger should be mechanically be attatched to the crankshaft so that it will not move from its location under any operating circumstances. The pully on the dampener, though it is fixed for the most part well, will move on its relative position. That is why it seperates, so what is happening is the TDC notch on the trigger wheel will be moving before and after TDC under various operating conditions. This is incorrect palacement of a crank angle trigger. You must make the TDC trigger accurate and mot a moving mark even if it is but a couple degrees. Thatt will screw up your whole fuel management system. This will not make it unfunctional, but it will not let you optimize the system either as the trigger points for the various components will be slightly off of the exact timing mark they need to be at to get the correct trigger. I called ATI and spoke to them at length regarding their product, and I was very impressed with the dampener. I did however find out and figured what it would take to install the pully/s that would be needed for the cars. In my case and every case, the pully/s would have to be made, and they would be bolted to the front of the dampener. Doing the calculation of the spacing of the pully/s and comparing that to a strock dampener/pully, the part on the ATI dampener would sit to far forward to the rest of the pullies on the engine like the water pump and alternator pullies. Now I did design a pully, that would be built to fit over the dampener, and place the groove in the correct positioning for the water pump and alternator, and that is doable. I had the drawing completed with the parameters of the pully and was seriously considering that option. The one thing that made me scrap the project was the fact that I could not get the pully the correct diameter to spin the various components at the correct speed because of how the pully had to be machined to fit over the top of the dampener. The dampener if I recall correctly is 6.500 in diameter, and the pully for the stock dampener was about 6.800 at its biggest diameter. That was not enough meat on the pully (made in aluminum) to make it strong enough to work, and get a belt on it at the same time. then there was the option of making the pully bigger to compensate for the difference and that would have made the water pump spin to fast, but if I remember correctly AZ zcar has a pully for the water pump that is an under drive pully. The last option I looked at was going cerpintine belt and tht would have been very cool and very functional, but again all of the pullies on the engine would have to be made. So what do we have with the ATI dampener. We get to change the dampener @ $450.00 the new pully @ $200.00 and the AZ pully @ $100 for a grant total of about 750.00 plus the shipping and all that jazz. I felt that was a little to expensive an option and that the majority of the guys out there would not even consider it. The cerpintine belt sure would be killer tho. So I then asked if they would design a dampener, NO. Then I called fluid dampener to see if they had anything that would work, NO, they had much the same configuration as ATI regarding application and size of the part. I then asked if they would make a dampener, again NO. The truth is that hte fluid dampener would be IDEAL because it would attenuate all second order harmonics across the frequency band at any rpm level. Ever wonder why top fuel cars run fluid dampeners??? that is why. So you could say I was shot down in flames. I then did some more calling and found BHJ that would be willing to make a unit that would fit our applications and requirements. That is when I started working with them, and found out I was about a couple of weeks behind what Dave Robello did with the single grove dampener, and that is available now through Robello racing ONLY. Robello incured all of the engineering costs for that part and hold the patent on the dampener. The one Brian and I are, were working on is going to be a BHJ part, with a BHJ part number, and as I said, it should be just about completed. So there you have it. Now drilling the dampener so that it has some movement, but limited to what Joel has suggested may work, but to be sure you havent screwed up the dampening effect of the part, it really should be tested for harmonics attenuation to ensure it still operates as it was designed to work. You know, yopu can do what ever you want with your cars, but for me, I have entirely to much invested in my mechanical rotating assembly to take a chance I will make a bunch of bent broken parts. That is precisely wht my car has not been on the road, and I am not going to throw good money away again to have the same problem. I will wait for my new part and go from there, besides, I have decided to build the engine bigger, and get a newly modified tranny that will handle the power along with a number of other modifications I have been waiting to do to the car. I really do hope this info helps you guys and gals out. I did spend a lot of time in research and explored all options before I decided to have BHJ make the part, and it was the best solution, and the cheapest solution to a big problem that keeps rearing its ugly head every time someone turns around (get it, LOL, I just break myself up LOL) anyway!

You can do that with the bolts, but again you will basicall be doing the same thing as welding the part. I would not recommend that as a solution to your problem. The point is that you need the dampener to do its job. There has to be a certin amount of flex in the dampener in order for it to do its job. If you want go go that route, and I would highly recommend that you dont, you may as well have a pully made. Paeco can make a pully for you for about 200.00 I realize this is a real problem for you, but you will end up with an outcome I dont think you will be very happy with at all if you take away all of the dampening charactoristics of the part.

Yes the system does semm like it is expensive, but just to give yourself an idea of what the materials cost why dont you take a look at what some of the various components cost, and then you will understand that my quote is very reasonable. Just the stainless steel tubing 16Ga 3" is about 10-12 dollars a foot for that stuff. Mild steel is about 30% the cost of the stainless. I looked at a number of couplers and I could have gone with mild steel three bolt flanges andthat would be cheaper, but that would have madethe system a pain in the butt to install. You would have the muffler shop do the cutting and welding of the flanges, so your savings after the shop did the rest of the fab work would eat up all of your savings and then some. The couplers I used are extremely high quality and they dont require gaskets. The last option was a V-band type coupler, nd they are almost double the cost of the parts I used, and again you would have to have the shop weld them on for you. The cat and the muffler you can price out yourself. They are a car sound cat and a Magnaflow muffler. Then when you look at places like MSA, they are pricey themselves, and you cant even get a 3" system in stainless. You can also look at some of the stuff made for the 300 from companies like stillen and you will find that they are way more expensive. I priced a system for my car at well over 1200.00 So maybe it is pricy, but well worth the money in my opinion. I think the thing that really pissed me off was that I had the system first made in mild steel and I did it in three trips to the muffler shop. The first was the muffler and tips that cost me 206.00 installed and all the guy did is hack off my muffler and weld the dynomax and tips on. The second trip was to get the 3" cat back pipes done and that cost me another 100.00. The last one was the real pisser. I had the pipe cut for the down pipe, and the flange made, and the gasket. I needed it welded together and needed the 3 feet of pipe to the cat, and needed the cat. That trip cost me 471.00 for the cat and to weld the system together, and I had most of the fab work done. Now we are talking about a hacked together system (in mild steel) that ended up costing me about 775.00 and I had to make the flange, buy the ubends, and let some hacker work on my car. When the system was done it worked well, but it sure looked like crap in my opinion. Heck I even made the O2 bungs because the standard weld on parts you can buy are to thick to properly expose the O2 sensor to the exhaust gases. That is when I decided to do the system myself. I bought a welder the pipe and the u bends. I made the bungs, and the flange along with the gasket. I made all of the mounting hardware also. That cost me another 300 or so, and then I was ready to take that proto to the pipe bender and let hin duplicate that in stainless. anyway that is the story on the system. if you want to check out some of the costs of the parts I mentioned you can look on http://www.burnsstainless.com and get a good idea of the cost they have for some of the components and the tubing. oh well, anyway, I think I priced the system very conservatively considering the time and effort I myself have to put out for a completed system, yea it works out to about 5 bucks an hour for my labor. This was done so that other people could have a system that they would need to run high Hp numbers with their engines and have the looks and function of a very well designed complete system.

I never ran the vicious type diff in my car. I ran the clutch type diff in my car and the splines were the correct type to installthe clutch type diff. I did upgrade the diff to the Quaife diff, and again the splines are the correct parts for that digg also. I think James did the vicious diff in his 240, so you may want to talk to him on the mod.

Well hi there, I also have been dealing with this issue as you may know. I have had a new three belt dampener made that will not seperate like the stock units will. The problem is that once you start spinning them in the 6K and higher rpm ranges they will always seperate. The Euro dampener Nismo has is just as bad for seperating. I have not called BHJ this week, but the new unit should be completed by now. Also Robello Racing has the single grove dampener that they made already if that is an option for you. The thing about the three belt dampener that you may be interested in is that options for that third blet pully. The dampener is made so that the third pully is optional so you can remove it and mount your crank trigger to that part of the dampener. I did mention to Brian the prospects of making the dampener in such a way that the after market EFI systems could mount a crank angle sensor to the dampener and that was a consideration when they designed the new part. I think this would be the best option for you, and for Donna when her dampener does what your and my dampener did (and it is going to seperate on her car also) This has been a big problem with the stock dampener, and any dampener Nissan has made for the L series engines. They just did not make the part to sustain high rpm levels and stay together. The majority of the drivers out there will not turn their engines to 6K-7K rpm's frequently so they tokk their best option and made the unit to cater to the average engine speed and the others could just buy a new part when it seperated. Your question regarding welding the two parts together is a valid question, but I would not recommend doing so. The harmonics that break cranks just happen to be in the 7k-7200 rpm ranges for the L28 engines, and in the 3-3500 rpm ranges. Looking at those numbers, that puts the most damaging harmonics in the max rpm ranges that I am sure you get to frequently, and worse yet in the cruising rpm ranges. I researched this problem to a great extent and did find some solutions that you may also want to look at. ATI also makes a NHRA dampener for the L series engines by Nissan, but for my application it was unsuitable. That part just may work for your application. Other then the ATI part there really is no other option for our engines and that is why I had BHJ design a totally new part. I sent in a three groove dampener, and Dave Robello sent in a two groove dampener. Both units were sent out for harmonic testing and returned the same harmonic dampening charactoristics. With this data BHJ developed their dampener. The only thing they forgot about was the relief cut in the back of the dampener for the timing chain front cover. So when they tried the dampener on an engine at Robello's shop it hit the cover. They had to wait until a run of dampeners were completed to do the modification on their unit and that was about two weeks ago. I will contact them Monday and get the status on the part. Anyway, I would strongly recommend that you do not weld the dampener and run it on your engine. I know you have allot of money invested in your engine, and it would really be bad if you broke that stroker crank, it would really ruin your day. In this case it is better safe then sorry, and if you do get this new dampener, installing the crank angle trigger on the unit will be easier they you would think. just my O2

the 2 1/2" system will be good for 300 hp and run well, but if you are going to go for 500 then I would use the 3" You really cant compare the V8 engines to the 6 and 4 cylinder engines. The V8 has two exhaust manifolds and they will flow well at 2 1/2" each side, but with the 6 and 4 cylinder engines you are building more power per cylinder and running through one exhaust pipe. Also you are going with a turbo so 3" is a better flowing exhaust for that application.

I just got off the phone for the flange. The flange is going to cost 75.00 done in 304 stainless steel. This is the flange that I designed and built for the Nissan exhaust turbine housing. I may be able to have the part done in mild steal, but really would not do that as it will rust, and the stainless part will just turn brown after a while. I will get the pipes today if I can.

I took the pipes back to the shop two days ago and they are being quoted again, just to make sure the price is the same. It has been almost 2 years since I had the first three made. I should have a good quote here in a few days. I also did the drawing of the flange and it is out for quote. I dont have the time to make that many flanges. My machinest guy is real reasonable on his parts and he does an excellent job. That should be ready here also shortly. ALL of you who are interested in the down pipe/system make sure you send me out a mail to that effect and I will add you to my list to give you the info when I get all the quotes completed. mrjeff1@sbcglobal.net

I have been working on a tranny for my car for quite some time now. Here are some things to consider. The Ford T5, this tranny is not rated much better then the Borg Warner T5 that came in the zx turbo cars. So if you wust want to run about 250-275 hp then the easiest thing to do is run the turbo tranny from the Nissan. The pilot bearing can be made for the input shaft. I am having two made for my install. I would not suggest getting the input shaft turned down as the shaft is case hardened and it will break most likely if you do machine it to size to fit the Nissan pilot bearing or bushing. The best thinf to do in that case is to hone a new brass bushing to size for the ford T5. The last thing, and this is what I have done is to buy the TKO, or the TKO2 transmission if you want to really put some power to the tranny. I went with the TKO2 because it handles more power and the over drive is not to bad for my topend. The TKO has a better over drive gear, but it is a weaker tranny, and the gears cant be swapped between the two trannies. There is not another gear option for the TKO2 so the .820 over drive will have to do. I called Tremec about the tranny, because it almost fit my zx, and the bell housing perfect(I was not concerned about the mounting bolts as they are easily modified if need be) but the shifter was 19.500 from the front of the tranny and my T5 is 22.500 so the shifter was wgoing to be under the dash. That was not good, so Tremec refereed me to a company that does modifications to the trannies. I called and spoke to the guy about modifying the shifter and move it back. That is being done now. The input shaft dia was larger then mine, so I sent him a stock Nissan roller bearing and he is making a bearing that will fit my crank and the TKO2 input shaft. The bearing retainer(nose cone) fit the bell housing perfectly, but the throw out bearing slider was larger. I sent in the throw out bearing asnd .015 is being removed from the throw out bearing to fit the new tranny. The last thing I need to engineer is the tail shaft mount, and the treanny is in the car. I have the speedo figured out to work I think, but I will have to make sure when I get the tranny. The drive line is done in the design department as I will use the standard output yoke, a Nissan r200 LSD flange on the diff and a spicer companion flange. The universal joints are going to be the spicer 1310 type (very beefy) and that will be the end of all my hp/torque issues with the tranny. My clutch disc hub will be changed to fit the Tremec inpot shaft also. There are mustangs running 9 sec quarters with that tranny and I think that will about do it for my car also LOL So if you are willing to spend the money on a new unit you can have a custom setup that will handle the hp and torque you want to give it and have the gearing that will work very well for the track and the street. The company is going to keep the drawings of the modification, and it will simply be a matter of calling and making an order that will work with the z cars now.

Turbonetics sells a spacer and I would recommend that as the fix. 1/6 of an inch from the exhaust manifold will give a significant amount of heat transfer even tho it is not touching. You want the air as cool as possible, and thinking the intercooler will fix the problem is not the best thinking. Get the air as cool as possible before the intercooler and you will have a cooler charge into the intake manifold. Space out the turbo, and if you can also build a heat shield on the compressor side to help out the with heat deflection from the compressor. A pain in the butt I know, but well worth the hassle in my opinion. just my O2 here