jeffp

First off I would not recommend a 3.1 liter for a turbo application. 3.0 is good enough. That will give you a good bore to 88mm and the diesel crank for the stroke. When a person strokes a turbo engine it is not for the displacement but for the extra torque that you will get with the longer stroke. On a N/A engine it is for the displacement. Remember swept volume is just that, swept volume, so if you increase the swept volume you are going to get a stronger engine if you ar doing a N/A application. The 89mm bore on a L28 engine is getting a little thin on the cylinder walls in my opinion. Next thing, the pistons, well the turbo piston has a dish in them to decrease the static compression. Je makes a set of pistons for about 650.00 and you can get total seal rings for about 30.00 a set.I went with a 8.5:1 compression ratio in my engine because I wanted a little more power off boost then the stock compression would give me. The 240 rods will give you a 1.65:1 rod/stroke ratio and that will work, but with the 240 rods, if you leave the piston pin boss at at stock bore heigth, that will put the piston up above the deck by about .020. So what most guys have done is use a 2mm head gasket. I also dont suggest this as a way to compensate foran incorrect parameter and creates poor squish in the combustion chamber. that will make the engine more susceptable to pinging. People have also milled off the top of the piston as well, which cuts down on the heat sink capabilities of the piston to dissipate heat. All of this stuff will work, but it is not the correct way to solve the problem in my opinion. What would be the best method is to have the piston maker drill the pin boss to the correct heigth and be done with it. The block, well there again you will have to more then likely have to grind on the oil gally area on the inside of the block to get the rods to clear the side of the block, leave about .050 clearance between the rod and block and you should be good. You can do that work yourself if you like, a good little grinder will do the trick just fine. You can also do the "micro polish" that shops charge about 100.00 to do. Get your self some mineral spirits and 2000 grit sand paper. Cut the papre to fit the journals, dip it in the mineral spirits and start in on the journals. If you can chuck up the crank in a layth, and I am guessing you can to knife edge the crank, then go at it that way until the journals are mirror finish. It really doesn't take that much to do it, and you should still be well within spec on clearances when you are done. Call Je and ask them for a cost on the pistons, or you can call Robello and buy them from them. I think they have stock on ready to go pistons. Talk to Dave and tell him Jeff sent you. I would also suggest ARP main studs in the bottom end and in the head also, and if you dont go after market on the rods then get them for the rods as well. You are looking at about 300-350 for all that stuff. The pistons, get the high silicone piston so you will be able to fit them in the bores at 2- 21/2 thousands for a tight engine. Just keep in mind, you are building a turbo engine, not a N/A engine, so some of the stuff you would do for a hyper N/A engine is not required for a turbo application.and there again, some of the stuff you would not do for a N/A engine is required for a turbo engione, like the piston ring land configuration, you will want a ring further away from the top of the piston then on a N/A engine requires. anyway, hope that helps.

QUOTE: In 1998, with the Paxton working half way decently, I reached a speedo indication of 170+ or - (buried the speedo needle past the stock 160mph speedo). The tach was bouncing around 4900/5000rpm. Doing the math with 24.8" tires, stock R200 rearend with 3.54 ratio, and a .63 5th spd gearing on the WCT-5 tranny; I calculated an honest 160+/-. At 150-155mph the car felt fairly stable and handled rather well. But at 160 it started lift in the front and I could feel pockets of air moving the car irradically. For that kind of speed, more attention is needed to underneath aerodynamics. I'm not inclined to want to do a repeat performance! 150+mph is plenty fast to whip most of the wanabes out on the road. END QUOTE: I am not going to go into all of the mods to my car, but I do have a complete suspension package on my car including brakes. I was running down the road with one of the new boxters and I reached 5500 RPM in fifth gear which is about 140 mph. That was fast enough for my car. I may have been at 6K rpm, but I was not looking at the instruments to close. I dont think I would take the car to much faster then that without doing some work to keep the front on the ground. The steering got very light on the wheel so I did not want to push it. The engine was willing to go to redline, but I wasn't willing to have the front come off the ground.

Cody, you said you changed out the exhaust turbine. There is your change, if you change out the wheel to a different setup it only stands to reason that you will have a different operating turbo. True the actuator should open up @ 7psi, but slight differences in spring pressure also make a difference of when the catuator will actually open the waste gate. anyway, just some thoughts on the matter.

Hi everyone, I have not gotten a cost on the pump. I was very pleasently surprised to find out the company is going to send me my pump for FREE. I did send all of the stuff fro them to complete a unit, cover, pump,and water neck. Anyway, here is the story, the pump is completed ansd on it's way to my house. The specs are 38 GPM @ 4psi of pressure. That is about 1 gallon better then their standard pump. I will take some pictures of the thing when it gets to my location. Overall, I am very pleased with the professionalism of CSI as a company, and their willingness to work with and develop applications for the customer. To BAD Moroso, you just lost the z crowd because you would not help out the customer.

I spoke to Jason today, and he is going to call me either today or tomorrow morning. When I calledtoday he was getting ready to flow test the pump, in the cover I sent him to do the R&D with. So we will see what the pump flows here shortly. I am planning on getting one here after next friday. I will be out of town until then, never thought I wouldthink Christmas holiday would ba a pain in the butt. I have to wait on a number of parts because of the holiday.

Hi James, the header pics are no showing up on the Pc here at work. Could you email me them so I can get a look at it. mrjeff1@sbcglobal.net. REGARDS

The best people to ask about the Z31 setup are JWT. The specialize in that setup for the L28 turbo engine.

The turbo cost 1K with all new parts, and the flange and welding the flange, oh also the vband. I called Turbonetics yesterday and ordered the pipe part ofthe flange and it was 45.00 Those guys really want allot of money for their stuff, but oh well. The divided inlet to the turbo is basically a T4 configuration. I do have to make some modifications to the inlet to give it a better flow into the inlet, but that really is not much of a problem. I also bought a new 1/2" spacer 28.00 for a part that cost about 5.00 to get the materials for and make, oh well. I have to port match the new spacer to exhaust manifold, and the spacre to the turbo inlet, and do a little polishing on the inlet to the turbo to get a little smoother flow into the turbo. I think that should be a really good setup, but I will find out for shure when I run it forthe first time and see how it spools.

I think the V band is slick also, yes the DP will bolt to the end of the turbo nice and easy. I am going to run the stock exhaust manifold and see how well it performs. I will get some pics of the install when I get it done. I am still collecting parts for the rest of the upgrades to the car right now, and I want to do a little more machining on the turbo for flow considerations. This should be a really sweet setup on the car.

I just got my new turbo and waste gate today. I am very pleased with the parts. I will do some of my custom work on them, but for the most part they are ready for install. The only thing I can say that I wish was different is the turbo is not water cooled, but time will tell ifthat is going to be a problem. here is the link, tell me what you think. http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page23.html

I am running 8.5:1 compression in my car, and I can boost to 10-11 psi on pump gas with the car. You will need to be intercooled but it works out very well for the off boost power of the engine.

You may want to talk to Brian at BHJ regarding the crank trigger magnets. He is developing a new harmonic dampener that will accomidate the after market stuff very easily, and the dampener will not go out to lunch like the stock part does.

I have one I am going to install on my car. I am told that the stock steel gear cracks at the keyway. Other then that is is just a waste of 90.00 bucks.

Talk to David at Malvern Racing. he can get them, but they are expensive compared to other rods I think he quoted me 265.00 each. I like them but I did not want to spenad that much on the rods. I got a set od Crower rods for about 1050.00 shipped. Just out of curiosity, why do you want the carrillo rods?

if your harmonic dampener is hosed, why dont you go to the junk yard and just get another one. Yes Chevy did do a sleeve for their dampener, but you just may find it will cost you more to have that mod done then to get a good part at the wrecker. Just a thought.

what you need to do is get a fuel pressure gauge and take the quess work out of the troubleshooting. You can get one at Kragen for about 29.00 out the door. If you really think it is the fuel pump, what you swhould have done is pinch off the return line(but not all the way) and rev the engione and see if it improves. That will force the fuel pressure up and make the injectors provide more fuel. Also what you can try, is after you start the car, disconnect the cylinder head temp sensor, and that will increase the duty cycle to the injectors and it should run better. I would really encourage you to get the fuel pressure gauge tho as that will give you a very good indication of a feul or an electrical or finally a mechanical problem.This stuff really is not to hard, but you do need some of the right tools like the fuel pressure gauge to effectively trouble shoot the car. Just my O2 here.

Well it is a go. I paid the man today and the tranny should be completed here in a few weeks. The shifter will fit just like the stock shifter. He is going to do the mod, make a roller pilot bearing for me and it comes with a poly trans mount, and the output yoke. I have the clutch sorted out, and that will cost me 60.00 for the correct hub. The drive line will be running the big 1310 Spicer universal joints and with the Quaife diff it should be just about bullet proof. The tranny with all the stuff and the mod is going to cost about 2700.00 shipped to me. The next tranny, if anyone is interested will be cheaper, so you could say I have blaxed the trail for the rest of you if you want that option for your zx car. They are going to document the mod so it will be a matter of ordering the trnny and installing it. I will have to modify the throw out bearing and open it up .015 to fit the TKO collar, but that is really not to much of a problem. I think the rest is down hill from here, but until I get the thing and start installing it I wont know for sure. anyway just thought you might want to know there is a replacement for the T5 now and it is strong.

There are really two issues to work out on the tranny. The first one is the size of the input shaft into the pilet bushing. The TKO part is .020 bigger then the T5, but the shop that is doing the work is going to make a roller bearing to make up for the larger part. The second method, and it is not hte best method, is to turn the .020 off the input shaft, but the shaft is case hardened, so the new pilet bushing is the best way. The second thing is that the throw out bearing needs to be machined out .015 to fit the TKO collar, not to hard to get done. I am not to worried about the bolts as The bell housing can easily be drilled if the bolt pattern is different. The critical thing is that the tranny will mate and not be off center and put a bind on the input shaft, but that is not a problem as the bearing retainer (nose cone) is the samd diameter as the T5 part, so the alignment of the input shaft is not a problem. I have already had a custom clutch made for the car for the T5, so all I need to do is send in the disc, and have the shop change out the hub to fit the TKO spline. The last thing is the cross member and that I can make myself, but I have to check how the stock part will fit, and if not I will make a new bracket. The drive line will be 3" and I am going to run the 300ZXT flange off the diff and use a spicer mating flange with the 1310 universal joint on both ends of the drive line, making it very strong. I will say tho, the stock Nissan stuff has held up to 475 foot pounds of torque to this point and that is very good. I just dont think that if I put a set of tires that really bite the road like wrinkle wall slicks the tranny will hold up. I have already done all the work on the rear of the car, shot peened the axel stubs, I have a new Quaife just waiting for install, and I am confident the CV type half shafts will be just fine in the car, but who knows I could be wrong, but I dont think I am. The real challenge is as I said getting the shifter back so it is not hitting the radio and dash. Anyway, I am hopeful this will turn out very well, and since I know of a mustang that is running a 9.18 in the quarter I dont think I will break the tranny. I will keep all of you posted on what the outcome is with this one shop, and who knows maybe some of you will want a setup like it. Thanks for your input and suggestions for shops. It's coming together, slowly, but I think it will be an excellent setup on all accounts when I get all of the mods completed I want to do on the car. The turbo should be done here by the end of the week, the dampener is almost completed, the electric water pump is almost completed so the rest is down hill.

I have talked to a number of people/business regarding the water cooling on the cartridge. I have a builder that says he cant install the 360 degree thrust bearing into a water cooled cartridge. I spoke to turbonetics and they say they do. What is your take on the water cooled unit over the non water cooled unit?? I tend to think the water cooled unit is a better way to cool the cratridge down, myself.

Well I have been looking into installing a TKO2 in my car so I can really be confident with a good launch and not make a bunch of tranny parts in the process. The TKO2 almost fits the car exactly for the most part, except the shifter is 3" forward of my stock T5 unit. I considered moving the engine back and spacing the tranny at the bell housing, but looking at the T5 and where the input spline fits into the bell housing, clutch, and the pilet bushing I cant space it waay from the tranny, so that makes the shifter still to far forward to get it into the car and not hack the car away. I am not going to hack the car away to install this unit, so I called TTC and was given a number to a shop that does mods to the tranny. I spoke to the owner and it is looking like right now that they can move the shifter back to a position I need to fit my car. I haven;t gotten a quote on the mod or the tranny from them, but if it is not to high a price I think that is the very best way I can go with this thing. Anyway, hopefully it will work out that I can do this mod and not modify the car to get it installed.

Hey Jqames, what are the torque readings that go along with the Hp you are getting?

I have considered this type T/B also. The part does give some advantages for cruise and just off idle response. The thing that made me not want to do it is the fabrication of the inlet coupler. I did not want to spend the time to make something for the part. Making a flange is really simple. I would be willing to bet you would not have to do any welding at all. If you start with a 1" plate, then do the bore for the orignal hole and bolts. Use a phil flat head scerew countersink the plate so the screw is flush with the palte. Then make the plate to match the outer dimentions of the new T/B and blend the scond Hole (the smaller throttle butterfly) into the first hole, similar to the way the T/B hole is shaped then it should work very well. Rgarding the 60mm T/b flowing enough to get just past 500Hp, well is there anyone out there putting out 500hp for sure by dyno sheets. I can tell you I am, and I am running the 60mm T/B on my car. My problem was not the T/B but the limitations of the turbo. I could push 23-25psi with my turbo, and if you do the calculations you will find I just ran out of air for the engine to make anymore power. There is a give and taks situation here, you can push a part like a T/B further then most think, but what you start giving up is the efficiency of the system. The overall perssure drop across the system begins to increase with the increase of air flow, but if you have a power source that can overcome the pressure drop and still provide the engine to make your numbers, then what is wrong with that? The thing I have noticed, is that when you graduate from one application that makes X amount of power, the next graduation is costly, especially when it comes to changing out turbos and intercoolers, waste gates and all that neat stuff. So I say if it takes a little more kick to get what you want and you can do it, then do it that way, it is surely cheaper in the long run for you.

Why do you want to know the MPH of the piston. The reality of it is that the piston does not move in that fashion and really has no relivance. The feet traveled per second is the important one to know as it will give you a good idea of the type piston you need and what type of lube you need and that information is relivant to the building of a performance engine. I would suggest you getting a book by John Lawlor, engine math book. Very informative, and will answer any engine question you may have. You can get it on Amazon.com I think it is about 20 bucks, worth every penny.

That would have been a good test James, but I was not able to get that far on the testing. I got my first part completed and spent 3 hours running around getting fuel for the car. You would think there are a number of places that have good fuel, and they are, but they are 20 miles apart and I tried two places and they were out. the third place had fuel and it took me 1 1/2 hours there and back. I really hate Cali traffic. Anyway the turbo is off the car and on it's way to Craig. I have a shop that will start in in my new turbo on WED of this week. Thais is going to take some time getting the new waste gate plumbed in and setup right.