jeffp

Yes I do realize the different type shafts and I am aware of the factthat the universal joints used in the other cars are much larger then what Nissan uses and there in lyies the problem. Its just simply a matter of the amount of material used in the universal. When you look at the two side by side it is clear the GM part is much beefier, and stronger. We are talking about Nissan parts here. Further, in my opinion I would much rather have a universal joint type coupler with the rollers in a 120 degree pattern using three contact surfaces then the standard universal joint coupler in the 180 degree pattern with only two contact points. You will get a better transfer of power over a range of angles that the standard universal joint, although will work, with less probibility of breaking. The fact is that once you get past a certin degree of angle on the universal joint the more torque is put on the part that makes breaking the part easier, but with the three universal joint configuration, you will maintain the torque better as there is more contact areas to handle the angle and they share in the angles making it much stronger. anyway, go with the zxt setup and you wont be unhappy about doing the mod.

Well I have run the 3.54 and now the 3.71 and I like the 3.71 the best. The car pulls hard, a 3.90 in my car would be stupid as I have a hard time with the car hitting 7K in first just about the time I need to shift, and second is not all that much better, more manageable tho. I can run through 1 gear before I am all the way out of the drive way if I really get on it and then it hits the rev limiter. Go with the 3.54 gear if you want to drive it on the freeway allot and if you want to race the car go with the 3.71 gear because it still is not that bad on the freeway.

I really dont understand why there is so much discussion on the matter. When you look at the configuration of the standard universal typ half shaft and compair that to the CV shaft what you finf is at least 30 % more material on the universal part of the shaft. The CV 280ZXT shaft has three roller bearing type setups in each side of the shaft. They are very srtong. The universal type shaft has only two bearingg spindles and a needle bearing cap. There shopuld not be any question which is stronger, its just a matter of looking at the two to determine there is MORE contact material on the CV then the universal setup. Also. for that matter, I would NEVER consider running that shaft on my car, and last dyno pull got mr 473 fppt pounds of torque in 4th gear. Would any of you like to try that with the universal type half shaft and really depend on it?? I know I would not. anyway just my thoughts on the matter, and they sure have worked out well for me.

Hey everyone, I have been looking at this post for quite some time. I have also built a complete system that will fit the stock exhaust turbine housing, or easily adapted to a different flange configuration. I know some of you know about my system but here is the link to check it out if you dont http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page11.html I have gotten a number of inquirys on the system and have enough people, IF EVERYONE WANTS ONE, to do a group run on the pipes. The bender requires a minimum build of 15 sets of pipes. I do the rest on the system. Now I realize some of you dont like various parts of the system or maybe you do, but the point is that if I can do a minimum run, all of the pipes dont have to be made for a complete system. Some may just want the down pipe and not the cat back pipe, some may want a complete system and that is fine also. So if you are a person that is just interested in the down pipe, and I have the required number to do the minimum build then this is a perfect opportunity for you to solve some of your problems, get a killer downpipe in stainless steel 3" mandrel bent that will fit your car perfectly (yes even with the stock cat and cat back pipe and muffler) I have been wanting to do this ever since I built the system, but it just has not worked out. Now there is an opportunity to do it if everyone in my address book wants the pipes at least. the rest of the system is not a problem in the least. anyway mail me if you are interested and let the others you know that want to do the down pipe on their car, and lets see what kind of response I get. If all works out well, all of you will be able to buy exactly the parts you want, pieces or a complete system.

Now we might have something there. I have gotten a number of inquiries to my system here lately. Send me a mail and I will add you to the list. I am just about ready to send a mail to all the people on the list and see what kind of response I get. I would really like to see some of the systems out on the cars. I know it sure has worked out very well for me. Anyway, I will wait for your mail. REGARDS

Ok I have been looking at your posts for a few days now and here is the story on the header. That part was a custom buuilt part for Hoovers car. Robello racing had the thing made for the car at the request of Hoover, and a significant amount of money spent on the part. The header cost 1800.00 and is totally custom. You can find the header on my web page if you want to take a look. I was trying to get some business going with David at innovator for a turbo header and exhaust system. David posted the picture to see what kind of response there would be on the part. So if you would like one of those headers contact Dave Robello and get ready to spend a good amount of money on the part. I was working with another guy, Steven, that was building a similar part, but that again did not work out as far as I can tell. He got the proto built, and it was very similar to the header you have been looking at, but I have not heard from him, or from David at innovator either. The header was going to be in the 1200.00 price range. Now since I am a busy guy just like they are, and we have not gotten together to get this part completed to sell, I can only conclude that there was not enough serious responses to make it worth while to persue. That part is time consuming, and expensive to build in the first place, being stainless steel and equil length. The investment up front just to have a few completed just to stock would be in the thousands of dollars. Since I dont have that kind of money to waste on a hope that there would be a market, as well as Steven, and David, I am guessing, you can consider the project dead, unless the phone starts ringing for a good number of them.

You can use the zx radiator in your car. Tell you what, I am in the process of changing out my 4 core unit with an aluminum cross flow unit. I got the radiator from MSA and did all of the modifications required to properly fit it in the car. They sell them as plug and play, but that is not what you get. I ended up changing out the mounting brackets, the filler neck and over flow tube, I had to install the brackets for the shroud, and make an adjustment to the lower outlet fitting in order to fit my car correctly, like they said it would fit. I will sell you my unit for a good price if you are interested. The part has about 5K miles on it and the top is polished and clear coated, it loks very nice. let me know, mail me if you are interested, mrjeff@sbcglobal.net The radiator is at cr racing right now so they can build the cross flow unit correctly, but it should be back soon.

I would agree with the T5 Borg Warner box as well. I drive a zx car and it had the 3.54 diff gear and the T5 I had good power, and very good fuel economy as well. I could drive about 400-450 miles on 21 gallons of gas. I thought that was good myself.

That is correct, the VG30 intake manifold has the correct plug for the Lseries manifold. Nissan sells them, so you can go to the wrecker or call and pin down the part number from Nissan. I first tried a manual boos controller and it lasted about 1 week. I could not control the boost very well and did also get a 2 psi spike or so. I then went from a 100.00 dollar manual part to a blitz 450.00 dollar part. Big difference in curve and maintained highest boost level over the entire rpm range. You may want to consider a better controller that will let you change settings on the fly.

I would think that there would be some liability on the part of the engine builder, if not all liability. You were not responsible to ensure the engine was the correct configuration they were. There really was no way for you to determine there was a problem. They could say that you did not watch the gauge, but then they should have known there was a problem from the start since they built the engine. I am guessing they installed the engine and ran it to check it out? They also could say you ran the engine out of oil also if they wanted to be jerks. What I would do is talk to them about the problem, and your findings. See what they have to say, and if they dont want to take responsibility fortheir error, then take them to court if they want to play hard ball. I am thinking you will have a very good case.

Well most of you dont live in Southern CA LOL. I drive a 500Hp turbo car and I dont have any problems with it. I also do have a boost controller, but I find I drive it turned up most of the time. I also run race fuel most of the time, so it is expensive, but you are ready to go anytime and there aint nothing like blowing away one of these "hotrods" on the street. And also 5.00 for C-16 is cheap, try 7.50 a gallon. True I dont use all of the power most of the time, but getting on the freeway @ 4:30 in the morning is really fun. Now you are thinking how can I afford to drive the car, well one really good thing is that the car still gets 30-32 mpg when I dont have my foot in it. The car is tuned very well, and it is using a 300zx ECU. I have power when I want it and cruise power when I want that also. So stupid, I dont think so, not with a turbo application because you can adjust for the power you want easily, kinda like the INDY cars do, its just that simple if you set the car up right and dont need to floor it every time you take off from the light. I will tell you one thing tho, the looks on the faces of the guys that think they are going to just blow you no problem, and they get their slow car blown away by a little nissan 280zx is priceless. I look for mustangs, vettes, vipers, and just about anything that is fast to have a little fun with, I dont know, maybe I am stupid, but it sure is fun.

First of all, any chain you put on your engine is going to stretch in a very short time, so buying an ew chain will have a short lived life in regards to how long it is. When you install the chain and the quide assemblies what you should do is this. The right side quide is strait and that is fine in all cases. You install the sprockets and the chain, then you turn the crank clockwise to tension the chain. Then you install the right side quide, and adjust is so it is just touching the chain, but not pushing on the chain. If the quide will not adjust to just touch the chain, then get a file and elongate the mounting holes so it is aligned perfectly with the chain in the top of the quide and the bottom of the quide. Then without turning the engine, install the left quide so that it is just touchuing the chain also. If the chain is lose then push the hydrolic adjuster out with a screw driver to tighten up the chain and make the left side adjuster so that it is just touching the cahin as before. You dont want the adjuster to push on the chain as all that will do is wear a groove in the rubber on the adjuster until it finds its adjustment, so if the adjuster is just touching the chain the wear on the guide will be very minimual and that will be fine. Regarding the notches on the gears and back plate. I was not happy with the three holes to adjust the notches, which BTY may not be the corret cam timing for the cam anyway because of the slight lose fit with the mounting bolts on the back plate, so I bought an adjustable sprocket from HKS, not the nine hole sprocket from motorsports, so that I could put a degree wheel on the crank and use a dial indicator to get the cam dialed in exactly. That is really the only accurate way to do it, but the notches in almost all cases gets the cam timing good enough to run it that way. When you start getting a custom grind cam, that you have set the lobe centers and the intake opening and closing, and the exhaust opening and closing data, the cam timing becomes critical as a few degrees will affect the cam significantly. so if you really want to do it right, get a degree wheel and dial indicator, take your time and make sure the timing is correct to the grind specs, and then you will be able to know exactly what that particular grind does for your engine. Just my O2 here guys

ok here we go. the blue wire goes to the coil negative (and the tach) the black/white wire goes to the coil positive. Now the power transistor bracket (transistor housing) gets grounded to the chassis of the car. on the connector ! - where the exclimation mark gets switched 12 volts from the ignition switch (you can check to make sure you have the correct wire by ohming to the black/white wire on the coil and it should have clost to zero ohms, the wire is just fed through the plastic mount. The wire that is the dash on the connector gets hooked to the ECU trigger. I dont have my manual here so I cant tell you the pinout. That is how it is hooked up. hope that helps you out

The turbo wire harness doesn't have a power resistor. I think the part you are talking about is the power transistor. That part gets a trigger from the ECU and 12 volts from the battery. I would suggest getting a good schematic of the turbo wire harness and you should be able to get the car running.

Check out what I have done with my turbo application. I went 3.0 and not 3.1 because of block considerations. Custom rods, pistons, ARP head/main studs. p90 head, big turbo, intercooler, to name a few. The dampener went out to lunch, but a custom unit is being built by BHJ, tranny, well thereis a weak link to run that kind of power. CV type half shafts are required, LSD is a very good idea, and a Quaife is the best. Good fuel management a must. I have dyno results you can check out. http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt have fun and you will spend lots of money to get you there.

I was considering getting my exhaust turbine housing coated. The cost will be about 110.00 plus shipping. What do you think? is it wirth the time and money?

The newer NGK platinum plug from Nissan works very well in my turbo application bcpr6es-11 (bcpr6vx-11 for the platinum plug). I was thinking of going with a size colder on the plugs to see what that will do for my boost on pump gas. I just may be able to squeeze some more boost out of the engine with acolder plug.

The seats are out of a 1983 280zxt. They are new and my car was their first, and last install. The seats are the recaro ergo med seats, and they were designed for the Farrari cars. I LIKE THEM LOL.

I got to reading your post regarding the O2 sensor and started looking around for one. I just bought that kit and still needed the sensor. Well you were correct, they are in short supply here in the US, and just about any site on the net that I could reach. I also looked at junk yards, on the hotline, and they are not there either. I called the dealer, the cost 366.00 for it, honda part# 3651P07003 then my friend was looking for them also with his contacts, no dice either. I thought I was going to ba able to get one from NAPA part# os791 and did order one on line for 135.00 but they sent me a mail and saidthey were on back order. Then I tried one last thing EBAY, and found a company that has about 4 of them for 175.00 each. I called them and bought it. You can look on ebay just type in L1H1 in the home search and it will list the sensor, and their phone number. today is 1-16-03 so if you need one, they have them, not to cheap, but way cheaper then the dealer.

I will do that. I do have some more things to do to the radiator before I get the pic up. I am going with an aluminum cross flow unit with dual fans.

Hi everyone, I just got the first electric water pump that is now going to be a stock item for CSI. The pump will be in the next product catalog they are in the process of completing. I am VERY happy with the end product and it should be an excellent upgrade for anyone who wants an electric setup. I have created a page on my web site with pictures and the specs and information regarding the pump. You can see it at http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page24.html I hope all of you will find this part as impressive as I have. REGARDS: Jeff

Hi Alan, I would also like a picture ofthat setup. If I had the money to do such a setup, I really think I could pull some serious hp out of the engine. I just love a good turbo car, and for that one a tein turbo setup would be really sweet. Then again a setup with a single turbo would be really sweet LOL mrjeff1@sbcglobal.net REGARDS: Jeff

I called last friday, the pump should be in its way. I am hoping to get it by today or friday. I will let you know and if anyone wants a picture of it I will list it on my web page to check out.

Hi Ron, I have often considered the prospects of that cylinder head in a turbo application. It was not designed for a turbo application, but I think it could be made to work well in that application. Regarding the N/A engine, you can get the same power out of a P90 or an E31 or E88 head with the correct modifications. The thing about the giken head is the cams, being dual cams makes it easier to advance/ retard each cam to come up with a killer setup. The cross flow design of the head also is desirable, and the placement of the spark plug. The hemi configuration is a far superior design for high hp applications. The cost, now there is the jest of the matter. I really dont think that you will be able to get that head for a reasonable price. I have often felt the cost was extremly unreasonable. For that kind of money, you can do a custom cylinder head and it would be the same thing there or abouts. Anyway just some of my thoughts maybe you will get lucky, that would be cool if you did.

The stock system is fine if you are trying to build power in the 200-250 range, but when you go to higher hp levels the stock system is not going to get you there. Being an 8 bit(digital processor) and analog inputs, especially the AFM is going to really limit your capabilities. I got my car running just fine with the stock system, but when I had to go to larger injectors, it was easier to just change out the system and start there.