Scottie-GNZ

On my best ET with a 1.36 60', my datalogger registered 1.94 and that was backed up by a calculus formula that builds an acceleration curve based on your 60', 330', 660' and 1000'. I believe I published that XLS a couple of times so others could see how quick their cars really are. That timeslip is in the database so anyone can plug in the numbers and validate it. That was with Hoosier QTPs. My best with DRs factors out to 2.55 (1.55 60') in the Z and I hope the 7 will better that. That's closer to being in "street trim" as the cars in that list.

Absolutely install a progressive alky kit. The best kit on the market (IMO) is right in your backyard in St Petersburg and he is a Buick turbo guy (10-sec street TTA). Was there just yesterday. I will be running 26-27psi on pump gas with that kit.

These are internally gated turbos. #1-Left is the wastegate relief hole positioned in the stream to relieve boost before it hits the turbine wheel. #1-Right is the wastegate puck that covers the hole to build boost then is opened by the wastegate cannister in #2-Left which is connected to an intaje port. The big port on the compressor inlet is where the valve cover vents back into engine. You can just block that off. #2-Right is a removable compressor "inlet bell" that you can remove and port to take away that transition ridge and increase the air flow into the housing. As for the wastegate, it depends on your HP goals and how you plan to position the turbos. That wastegate housing makes a sharp 90* off the turbo and many have ported it to improve flow. 400hp with inlet bell and exhaust housing ported is not uncommon with boost level up to around 22#. So you can see with minimal $$$ a pair will support well over 700rwhp. You do, however, have options. One is an improved internal housing integral in a DP and the other is an external gated DP like I currently have. Both will add considerable cost since you need 2 and if the goal is less than 700 RWHP you might consider sticking with the stockers and porting it. BTW, how do you plan to regulate the boost in this setup? MOF, my memory fails me. What is your planned setup?

Yup, it sure would and I could get one for half that......just ask Tim I do not need 1000+hp but I could always pull a couple of plug wires. Donations welcomed... :D BTW, if anyone wants to see engines like this in action, come to the track at Reynolds on Nov 4-5 and dont be shy, come by and say hi.

No disputing the results of your testing Jeff. Now, all the Zers out there with the stock or hybrid turbos with hogged out housings running 25psi and approaching 7000RPMs, please raise your hand. When someone gets to that point then 2.5" DPs, J/Y or eBay "JDM" I/Cs , SVO injs, etc, go out the window. What I have been saying all along is that if someone is using the stock turbo or one with the stock T3 turbine side and looking to make up to the 300hp range, a 2.5" mandrel-bent DP with 45* bends serves the purpose well. I would say that probably applies to 90% or more of the turboZs here.

Remember a discussion a while back? Remember the price? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buick-Grand-National-Stage-2-Engine-1100-HP_W0QQitemZ8005630426QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I am not sure where those weights are coming from. I helped strip the FD that has the GN power and it all added up. Every LS1 FD and the GN powered FD all came in within a few pounds over stock and none of those were strippers. As for the 911 comment, my bad for not making my point clear. I was not referring to the difference in weight but the fact that a 911 has a heavy rear weight bias and the snappy torque of a big V-8 accentuated it. I drove one of the early Renegade kits and compared to my 911 I did not like the way it drove. Of course, it was not an LS1 but I am not sure if even 50-75lbs would have made that big a difference. As for my sentiment towards the poster, I guess you would need to hang around the RX7club forum for a while to understand.

Hypertek, take that "ROTARD" mentality back to RX7club.com, PLEASE.

SWEET!! In case no one knows what these look like on a Z, here are the 15x9s I used to run on the GNZ when it was L28ET-powered. One of the nicest classic wheels for a classic. ps, Chris, have your buddy send my cut to..... :D

CONGRATS Now you have no excuse for missing the next SEZ

Even as a lifetime (seems like it ) 911 owner, I have to admit the FD is an amazing car made even more amazing with LS1 or GN power. My buddies GN-powered fully loaded 93 with a/c, Bose, etc weighs in a 2,790 w/o driver. The LS1 swap should weigh in about the same and be a well-balanced and better driver than the 911 conversion. Only drawback to the FD is the 4.11 final drive. Same problem in the 911 unless you use turbo transaxle. A TT LS1 FD is on my wish list BTW, I thought the rotard's comments were dead-on and honest.

With the right converter that setup should really haul arse. W/o even knowing the best so far, I am willing to bet you will see .5 improvement like 240Z Turbo. If you are concerned about street and highway driving then you might want to consider a TH200-4R with OD and even lockup if you so desire. Remember that a non-lockup converter with a high stall will have a fair amount of slip so take that into consideration when factoring final drive for trap speed and cruising.

NEAT! More proof: You and I :D

Wrong! 240Z Turbo ran a TT stroker with a modded JATCO and best the car would do is 11.1s. Switch to a PG with no other changes and the car ran 10.60s! Imagine that, only 2 gears and taller 1st gear to boot. His overall 1st gear ratio change was equivalent to going from a 3.70 to 3.0 with the JATCO and still the car went QUICKER. The notion that you need stiffer gearing in a turbo car for better acceleration is false. Put the engine under load and let the turbo do the work and you will be rewarded. The poster did mention "track" but not any other driving conditions so whether the PG or a 3-spd or OD tranny is the right choice is still in question.

Why alum over SS for I/C pipes? I doubt you will gain more than 1 or 2lbs in weight and SS can be made to look just as good. When I did my L28ET with the NPR, I used mig-welded mild steel then ground down the welds, filled the welds with bondo and painted it. You could not even see the welds. Bit of a PITA but was "cheap" and looked good. Wish I had a pic but I lost all that old stuff.

not quite sure I understand what you need. If you are just looking to connect the tranny to the Z speedo, all you need is the right cable, assuming you already have the drive gear and assembly. If you are looking to send speedo data to an ECM, then you need a VSS and JTR can tell you exactly which one you need.

Off to to PLM at Road Atlanta for the rest of the week.

The RX7 is done but having a problem with the tranny/converter lockup and cannot figure it out. Without the LU, I am trapping at 5,775 RPMs and not much point turning up the boost until I fix that and I want to limit the engine at 5800 thru the traps. Encouraging though that with no lockup and only 23# boost, car is running 10.70s at almost 128, considering no LU is probably costing me .2 & 3mph. Plan to run about 27# when I get the bugs out of it.

Not worth the cost and hassle IMHO. Part out the Z31 and find a good running 4G63 and drop that in. The swap will be a bolt-in and in stock form will outperform the n/a Z31.

I am assuming by the script on the plate welded to the rollbar that this is right-hand drive, so no it will knot pass tech inspection.

Vinh? JTR? V-8? :D

You got 6 months to plan a little vacation in March and give it a chance to stretch it legs on the highways to GA. Give the rest of us a chance to drool and dribble over it in person. :D