Scottie-GNZ

AFAIK, the only car that came with the 3.36 R200 is the '79 280ZX 2+2 with a 4-spd manual transmission.

You think that sounded nice. Check this one out. Crank up the volume, but, WARNING!!! Hide the children and dogs and strap yourself in real tight. http://liam821.com/pix/video/f1fireup.mpeg

http://videos.streetfire.net/iPlayer.aspx?fileid=ECE3A251-BE7B-49D4-8DD6-DAA1D576FA62

I ran about 15psi. There is no magic number for a Z or any car for that matter. Just need to trial and error to see what your car likes best.

Nice Numbers! Dont be a dyno queen. Work on getting all that power to the ground effectively and quickly

Erol is referring to car models. The 180SX was never imported here.

That's what I meant when I said the hurricane was yesterday

The hurricane was yesterday. Sadly I am seeing a trend here.

I agree with what 240Z Turbo had to say. It depends on how much HP you are planning and I would say for most L28ETs, 2.25 will work. As a point of reference, I run 2.5" for well over 500rwhp and do not feel it is hurting the top-end as the car gains 27-28mph in the 2nd half. That is a good indicator the engine is not losing power in the top-end.

BTW, that fuel setup looks awesome

You are speculating on the weight of that car. I am willing to bet that car loaded with the driver is closer to 2700#. Until that is proven and/or a timeslip is produced, all this is doing is hijacking the original thread. Oh, BTW, the difference between running 9.90 and 8.90 in a 2700# car is about 170rwhp so saying things like it should runs 8s or 9s shows some lack of knowledge of what it takes to go that quick. As for "Pinks", I watch it but it is painful. This past episode took the cake. That was lame. Something lame about a 30-min show featuring a car that probably barely run 14s. JBC3, I had heard some rumors that the whole "lose your car" bit was staged and no one really lost their car or there were some agreements ahead of time. Guess I was wrong.

Glad to see some more progress. Shoot for some shakedown passes at the next Funday/Sunday, 11/6?

8s? Guess again. I say it runs low-10s.

When it comes to I/Cs, bigger is not always better. Most of the cooling takes place in the 1st 6" of the tube and one of the most popular and well-proven cores from Spearco is their 18x6x3.5. In simple terms it is mostly about flow capacity without restriction and how well it radiates heat. More and bigger tubes facing the incoming tank will allow more flow. Think about that when you look at these silly ricer I/Cs with a core that is 6" tall with 4 or 5 tubes that span the width of the car.

I just put a Magnaflow on my Saab and was quite surprised. The Saab has a cat, a 12" pre-muffler, a main muffler in front of the exhaust and an 18" rear muffler. WHEW! The main and rear mufflers were bad and replaced them both with a single 14" Magnaflow in place of the rear muffler. At normal driving/RPMs, the car is whisper quiet and when the boost comes on it has a nice subdued "tone". I was quite surprised. Of course the Saab 2.3 turbo is not a honking V-8 or a 300hp L28ET but it should be nice in one of those too. BTW, the Magnaflow has about a 15" tailpipe and I sure that helps with the sound too.

The w/g dumping to the atmo can be loud and the shorter the dump pipe, the louder it will be. However, it should only be dumping at full boost when the w/g is diverting exhaust from the turbine housing/wheel. If it is "loud" any other time, then there is something wrong with it. As for loud, that is relative. You get used to the hushed sound of a turbo exhaust then switch to the "angry pack of bees" sound and you will notice it. As for using the electric cutout, that is definitely another option but what is the difference? Actually, the cutout will be louder since you are dumping out of a 3" pipe vs 1.5" or slightly larger. As for the benefits, it depends on the HP and DP/exhaust diameter. If you are running closer to stock levels and have a decent DP and exhaust, then it is probably not worth it. If you are running a T04 then it is assumed you will be making enough HP to see a gain. It is all about reducing back pressure in the exhaust and the better function of the external w/g. I just modified mine to dump to the atmo because I am at the point where I should see a gain over my 3" DP.

Unless you got your hands on a hi-performance rat, I would think building a big mouse based on the 400ci block would be the better way to go for a street car. Like Michael said, not all V-8s are born equal and just because you have a BBC does not mean you have a hi-performance engine. The incredible weight of a big block in the nose of an early Z, already frail with marginal suspension and brakes in stock form is a scary thought. (Dont flame me, I said "in stock form"). Unless you just want the WOW factor of seeing that thing stuffed in a Z, I would think a massaged 400ci would provide equal performance and make for a much better balanced car for the street.

Erich Bitter was German custom car builder. The car is based on the chassis of the Opel Diplomat. There were only about 500 of those made so I believe it should have some value and besides, why do you think that little V-8 will die?

That is correct. I ended up using a c4 Corvette D44 diff, same as the one used by Vipers. However, mine was IRS with 3" steel halfshafts so not sure I can comment on the axles to be used in a solid D44 rear. I would say if you have a need for a D44, 12-bolt or 9", you are probably also not using the stock axles that came with it. In a light Z car any D44 with aftermarket axles should be more than strong enough unless you are launching a mega-HP car off the line with a manual tranny. As a comparison I was launchng a 600lb/ft torque turbo engine at about 4800 off a transbrake. HTH,

A 7-sec capable Z with full interior? Hmmmm. On the track, even if you could not get traction, when the car gets going it will probably still trap at about 165mph! Any track that lets you run with a 6-pt rollbar should be reported and shut down! My opinions aside, for your own safety, you really need to rethink the safety aspects of your project. Even in street trim power mode, the car will still require a parachute on the track. Good luck with realizing your dream and keep us posted.

A 2,600# Z-car w/driver and 1000hp? So, you are expecting this car to run 7.90s?

That's why I also posted the times with DRs which are my "everyday" rear street tires.

Getting a quick 60' is a lot more than just having lots of HP, its putting what HP you have to the ground as quick and as effectively as possible. The Z weighed in at 2,750# with me and only made about 520rwhp but about 600lb/ft torque. The key was being able to get full boost a few feet off the line and having the tires hook with no wheelspin. I never pushed the engine much pass 5800 but when I let the car loose the converter would flash to 46-4800, get to full boost (25psi) immediately with maximum weight transfer (yes, SQUAT).

Another option is from the remote oil filter if you are using one. I am using a remote filter adaptor with dual outlets and using the 2nd port to feed the turbo. I imagine you could come off the adaptor with a -6 and tee it to 2 -4s. While the risk is low, you are guaranteed filtered oil to the turbos in case the oil gets contaminated.