Scottie-GNZ

....so why are they mandating "stock suspension" in the Sprot Compact Sport RWD class? Just about all the fastest cars in that class will be IRS and should be in the 8s

Sorry, I got out of that business, err, aggravation. I do know someone who might have one for sale and I will let you. However, it might be early next week as I am getting ready to go over to Daytona for the weekend for the 24-hr race.

BLKMGK, Would be nice to see you down again. Keep in mind that Titan runs the entire series so they may be on the road when you get here. Also, Jesus/Angel are now Titan rivals. The Nissan PU rear is plenty strong but I do not know how it would hold up to a torque monster. Carlos has been running one with a welded 3.90 in his RX-3 forever. Typically the rotaries are not known for torque but his car has a full body/chassis weighing in at about 2400# and he stalls it to 6000 with a P-glide and runs mid-9s.

ZLM, go to the "Announcements" forum and see the post entitled "The Next SE Hybridz Event".

What they refer to as the "big NPR" in that comparison is what I refer to as the medium. The Large NPR is painted/coated black and very rare. I do not have a clue what year/model they came out of but I would venture a guess it is the FPR not the NPR. Don't take that as gospel as I just put my order in and wait for delivery .

Sorry guys but I have been up to my neck in alligators putting my car back together and trying to close a deal on a new daily driver. A view of the other side would have been better but I am certain that is an NPR, the medium-sized one. As for the reference to me experiencing 7psi pressure drop, that happened when I tried to push 400+rwhp and that was through the big NPR. Remember, there are 3 sizes: the small which is the shortest and has smaller pipes pointing forward, the medium pictured here and the large which is taller and has less but much larger tubes. Bob, if you are seriously thinking of 400rwhp, then I would say keep looking because you are going to reach that HP level all too easy and you WILL NOT stop. Here are some pics of NPRs, a medium/large comparison and a large next to to a stock radiator. Yes, most NPRs come in through "Midnight Auto". BTW, a lot of folks trying to push alot of boost through these small OEMs probably would be shocked at how much pressure they have and the heat that is generating. Only way to find out is to do what I did. Put a boost gauge on the compressor AND the intake and see the difference. I also have thermocouples at the compressor and TB to measure temps. My advice is and always will be, do not use an OEM I/C that was used on an engine with less HP than a stock L28ET. Does matter on the engine as it is all about flow and HP=Flow.

There has been lots of discussions on this forum about NHRA banning IRS in cars 10.99 or quicker. Frankly I do give a rat's ass about the archaic rules that some hotrod genius out of the 60s keeps dreaming up. What makes this all ironic and hypocritical is that with this old Street-tire class now being allowed to run "DOT-approved" tires, cars in this class will be in the hi-8 in '03. To quote NHRA rules for this class "Original suspension mandatory". Now, I wonder how many of these 8-sec cars will not be using IRS? Did they check the suspension design of all the cars that could possibly compete and deem them OK? BLKMGK, the 4cyls & Rotaries must weigh 2,750# with 1 power-adder and 2,950# with 2. What they are basically trying to do is give Ari Yallon and other RX-7s a break against the Supra by adding 300# to the 6-cyls. "Penalizes" the Supras but kills other 6-cyls. I am being sarcastic about penalizing the Supras because they add 300# but allows the class to now run DOT-approved tires . Now the Supras will be able to hook off the line. Still will be rooting for that Titan Supra since it is a buddy of mine driving it and the guy that owns Titan is a super-nice person.

Check this one out folks. The car will also be at Reynolds.

I would say on the TB side you want to at least match the TB bore i.d.. On the compressor, 3.5" is overkill but I really do not know if it will hurt although I cannot believe it will not hurt velocity. I am willing to bet your compressor outlet i.d. is less than 2" so whats to gain by stepping it up to 3.5" From my compressor I use a 2"-2.25" hose, a 2.25" pipe with the last 3" blown out to 2.5" to match the I/C and eliminate the extra cost of a 2.25"-2.5" hose. On the TB side I use a 2.5" pipe to a 62mm TB.

NHRA has lost their mind. With a minimum weight of 3200#, they might as well just call that "The Supra Class". I supposed you could interpret the rules to say you could run the ZG flares ("mild bodywork permitted") and ET Streets/QTP ("DOT-approved tire") but even with that, there is no way a 3200 Z-car can be competitive. The Supras were running as quick as 9.0 with DRs so what are they gonna run with DOT slicks? I expect to see a few disgruntled cars rolling over to IDRC.

Thanks. Excatly what I needed.

NICE! A side-by-side dispaly of pics #8 & 16 are what the purist and know-it-alls need to see to understand how the V-8 messes up the weight distribution

Anyone know how to decipher a Saab 9000 VIN (94+ vintage)? TIA

Damn. Everytime I open my hood I feel so inadequate Looking good Dawg.

Got these from the Buick board but I thought you might enjoy them. This is how we all wish our cars could hook: http://www.pnrracing.com/Videos/Launch%20Mustang.avi Look at the blower on the Camaro and wait to entertained: http://www.pnrracing.com/Videos/Blo...BlownCamero.WMV This is just simply entertaining: http://www.nata2.info/humor/movies/kolla2001.wmv

I think how well the later Nissan engines will hold up at those power levels is still to be proven. I doubt Jamie is in a position to fund the development so it makes sense to go with what is proven. For those who doubt a VG30DETT can hold up, check out the link below. Once you target these kinds of HP levels and the mods it takes to accomplish them, most of the arguments about whether the RB or VG is stronger kinda goes out the window. http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/2002/drivers/J_Lazcano.html Jamie, I think it was BLKMGK that suggested you look into the Street-Tire class. One immediate thing to notice is the incredible bodywork the cars in the Pro class are using. What would it take for a stock chassis Z-car to achieve 190+ in the 1/4? One of the intriguing things about the Street-Tire class is that the engines are almost as powerful with some of the front runners like the Orlando-based Titan Supra pushing over 900hp. The trick is using the stock-based suspension and drag radials. Base weight is 2,600lbs and with a properly setup R230-based rear suspension, you should minimze breakage. Problem is that tubbing is disallowed and the Z has limited space in the fenderwells. To be compettive with that power you need to be running 315 or 325 BFGs. We all know how tough that is on a stock-fendered Z. A well-prepped RB or VG in a Z in the street-tire could be competitive but you need to be in the very low-9s. Here is where the V-6 configuration has a slight advantage because of the superior F-R weight distribution you can get with it slammed up against the firewall. In the stree-tire class, that is so critical for traction.

Hey folks, this post originally was intended to discuss a Pro Drag Z-car buildup and ironically it has taken more turns than an F1 racer. PLEASE, lets get this interesting topic back on track. - He is building a Pro Drag Car - He MUST, repeat, MUST run a Nissan engine. Lets not introduce heated debates or comparisons of anything not relevant to the topic. I would hate to have to lock the thread because I have a great interest in the topic.

I am at about 550lb/ft and here is what I did for a '71. 6-pt cage, F & R strut tower braces and a cheap but very effective stiffener for the frame rails. I cut, shaped and welded 3" U-channel over the entire length of the frames rails. 240Z Turbo has the same setup and our cars appear to be holding up just fine. Not necessarily advising you to go that route, but just showing an example. There are certainly better, cleaner ways to do the frame rails. I just did not want to put my car in rotiserrie jail

FWIW, I used a patented stainless-ceramic by a company in St Augustine, FL, Baxter Custom Engineering, http://www.bc-engr.com/ Funny that after all these years they still have a pic of my DP on their site as an example of an import down-tube. Anyway, my GN headers were done over 2.5yrs ago and they have not flaked. After a while, a slight oxidation will occur and I hit it LIGHTLY with the finest steel pad I can get. My EGT registers about 1600* at the end of the header so I would say it is holding up. Expensive but obviously worth it.

Guys, it does not matter what anyone thinks of the xJZ or any other engine. Jamie has no choice but to run a Nissan engine. What class are you looking to run, Pro? Tough competition, but if I recall, the minimum weight for a 6-cyl is 2,100 + power-adder penalties. Even with that light weight you will definitely need 1,000hp to be competitive. I am pumped for you, man. Keep us posted.

Jamie 1st, good luck in your venture. I have wanted to do exactly that but just do not have the budget to run in those classes or the time to follow the circuit. Also, they restrict use of my engine of choice, a Buick Stage II. Engine must be from the same manufacturer. Since you have to do an engine buildup, either engines will make the power and have the reliability you want. When you are talking about that kind of power levels from a turbo, .4L smaller does not necessarily mean less torque. If the class has a weight penalty for nitrous, take the penalty and build the engine to run nitrous and try to run at the weight minimum. Talk to Jap Tin and Ron Jones about their chassis setup. No point in reinventing the wheel as both are proven chassis in the 8s.

I agree with SleeperZ. If you put in the L28ET and get it set up correctly, you will not do the V-8.

There must be an error on Edmunds for one of the vehicles I am interested in. Here is how the 3 appraisals came out. NADA - $5395 (avg retail), KBB - $4800 (good condition) and Edmunds - $2670?? (clean). Another vehicle I am interested in shakes out as follows: $9200, $6800 and $7035 respectively. For the 1st vehicle, somewhere between KBB and NADA seems to be what the vehicle typically retails for.

Does anyone know the differences between how NADA and Edmunds appraises the value of a used car? I am looking to buy a another daily driver/parts hauler and the NADA appraised value is DOUBLE that of Edmunds.

Z_Webslinger, go to the Announcements forum and look at the post titled "The Next SE HybridZ Event".