Scottie-GNZ

Just a point of clarification. Not much point in pushing a stock L28ET pass 5800-6000 (I know most are facsinated with high RPMs) and I am pushing mine to 5600. Not much difference. My stall speed is 3000-3200, not what I would call "high".

I find it surprising someone would build a car like that and not post, showoff even, a timeslip. Lots of smoky burnouts but nothing to brag about with skinny street tires. The most interesting thing of all is the rear-end or lack of information, i.e. Only mention is "a fully locked rear-end" and seeing 4-lugs and no mention of an R200 upgrade you have to assume a welded R-180. I find it hard to believe but on the other hand, no knowledgeable hybridZ owner would omit mention of an R200 upgrade if it was done. Methinks this car has never seen a dragstrip. Know I am being picky but some poor sap is going to buy a gorgeous, well-built car and have to sink another couple of grand for a worthy solid setup, wheels and tires if they want to fully maximize the capability of this car. If the HP claims are correct, it has low-10s potential. Add 1 more excuse to why it is being sold. Simply ran out of money to finish the conversion. The attention to detail is fabulous.

Well, just go ahead and call me a naysayer. :D. I suppose this could be argued until kingdom come, but trust me, from my experience, the more boost you run and the more HP you make, the better the car will run in the 1/4-mile with a lower numerical ratio, especially in a light car like a 240Z. I started out with a 3.90 and "progressed" to a 3.70, then a 3.54, then a 3.36 and now a 3.07. Know what, If I went to a 2.90 or thereabouts, the car would be even quicker. Instead I plan to go from a 26" tire to a 27". It is difficult to accept especially when you are so familiar with the NA concepts, gear multiplication, etc. I certainly do not intend to debate the point any further but let me throw this out. Look at included URL and see what happened to this person. Note the timeslip with the note on it and compare that to the one with the lower numerical ratio and you will see the car is quicker in every segment. This is exactly my expreience. http://www.toohighpsi.com/BudgetTT/capriTS.htm I know some of you guys are not at that stage yet, but if you plan to increase HP but not do any mods to move the torque curve higher, IMHO a higher numerical ratio is the wrong direction. You do not gear a turbo engine to run it quickly up to redline.

I beg your pardon! Your Car Is Slow, I must be having a senior moment as I cannot recall what you said your car runs.

What Longfellow said

I believe it is also a DANA36 like the C4 Vette. That is a wide car and you will need to do a lot of widening unless you are using wide flares.

Ooh, Orlando! Let's get together.

DUH! I was referring to the original one Owen posted.

The problem I see is keeping them both at exactly the same speed for a long time to avoid the 2 wipers "colliding".

"I bet he works out. Look at the a$$ on that!" - Dumb and Dumber

George, not sure how much help you are going to get here as you have several brands we do not have and are not familiar with. What I can say is do not waste your time on money and octane boosters. Also, since you are after the most octane you can get on the street, focus on the Motor Octane (MON) rating of gasolines as that is the only meaningful one for high-performance. This might not help you much, but here is a little chart I maintain that compares high-octance fuels. http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/Racing-Gasoline-Chart.htm

RWHP or Flywheel? Many will talk as if they do, some even might claim it, but only a dyno sheet or a timeslip validates it.

Scared SH*Tless, but after you stop admiring your work, you got a lot of catching up to do my friend :D See you at Gainesville? BTW, did not know you used parker Push-Lok?

Guess I am just a skeptic who always uses a point of reference against such claims. Since that is an Audi engine, the incredible Audi R8 LeMans-class car uses a 3.6L TT-V8 and it is putting out about 625hp. Granted, there are class restrictions that limit its output, but still not to the point to say it can make 900hp. The way that Golf accelerated pass that Escort is the about the same way an R8 passes a Porsche GT3 which is putting out 450hp!

HA! Sport Compact Car Magazine, that validates it :D

I think most of you know me by now as one who is skeptical of high HP claims. I am not saying this car does not have 900hp, but..... I know it is a road racing machine but bear with me, I am trying to make a point. If this car was set up for drag racing and weighed 2400lbs, it would be capable of running the 1/4-mile in 8.0 at about 168mph. AWESOME car but I do not believe the HP claim. If on a road course it can out-accelerate the likes of the top LeMans-type cars (Audi R8, Bentley, etc) I can start believing, but out-accelerating the likes a mildly-modded Euro-Escort is no indication.

Yes, that does work and this works for the entire webpage: http://old.zdriver.com/members/scottiegnz/scotties240zt.htm

Chris, you are correct in asking what the spring pressure is but be aware that being dual-port has nothing to do with you reaching 20psi. If the standard spring pressure is high enough and the rod is adjustable, then you can make 20psi or you can add a bleeder or relief valve.

There is always some slippage with a torque converter. The LU eliminates the slippage. In the TH200-4R (GN version at least), the converter gets locked in OD and at 45mph, in essence making it almost like a 5-speed. It will not lock up if accelerating hard or at WOT. However, a manual switch can be installed to lock up the converter at any time. I believe that staement needs qualifitying. My car runs 10.30s and is capable of hi-9s as it sits and I run a lockup in the 200-4R. Locking up under drag racing conditions is hard on the clutches, but converters can be built to handle it. A lighter will be easier on the clutches and so is locking up in higher RPMs. I lock mine 3 secs after the 2-3 shift which happens about 2.75 secs into the run which means I spend a little less than half the ET locked up in 3rd. If I did not I would have to shift to OD which is a .67 ratio

BINGO!

Links are broken.

Contact zdriver.com and see if they will fix the link. The entire L28ET webpage was being hosted there but I do not feel like fixing it or rehosting it.

No. The drive gear is the one on the transmission tailshaft and the driven gear is the one on the end of the speedo cable. The best way to solve your problem is to know what drive and driven gears you have, your final drive ratio and tire diameter and call a tranny shop that is familiar with how to derive speedo gears and let them tell you what you need. Hopefully it is just the driven gear, but it could also be the drive gear or even the driven gear cage.

Ironically, the most important of the 4 is what color and how many teeth on your drive gear. Note: drive gear, not the driven gear. The driven gear is hopefully the thing you will have to change but you need to know the drive gear to make sure there is a driven gear to match your drive gear and final drive ratio. Yikes, that makes sense to me but sounds confusing

Whatever you do, do not copy this: http://writing.fsu.edu/cwc/sp02/jszcz1/alexis.htm When you read that you will not know whether to laugh or cry.