Scottie-GNZ

http://www.onlygoodstuff.com/product.asp?intProdID=51

A pic would be nice to see which way the tubes run. Surpprised no one at Cartech could tell you the flow based on the core not the kit. To make 300hp, it needs to flow at least 450cfm and that is on the small end of their scale. I would say it should be more than enough.

If the question was directed at me, No, I run a Buick V-6 turbo with about 25+ psi boost at the track with race gas. On the street it is a pussycat and gets 26mpg on the highway. The reason why I recommended the Push-Lok hose is to avoid the hassles of bending/kinking steel hoses.

I would run a new 1/2" line (or -8) for the feed and use the original Datsun feed for the return. This is what I am using and working fine with 480+rwhp. One of the best and easiest ways to do this is to use the Push-Lok type hoses (Parker is one brand) with the appropriate fittings.

Need pictures or core dimensions in order to help you.

Glad to see you got the flange done. I also agree the tubes are big. My buddy is running a 1200+rwhp 3.5L TT StageII and his are 1.75 too. However, the NOS should help deal with any spoolup issues. Any progress with the tranny?

Thanks. One of these days it will go into paint jail and look closer to the pics . As for scaring myself, all part of the process of dialing in a new setup I guess.

Good luck with it. The reason I did not do that is because it gets extremely difficult to get a wrench or socket on the nut to tighten them up, especially the inside ones.

Been awhile, but the knock sensor comes with the SDS but might be a low-cost option. ECM has sensitivity adjustment which is a nice feature considering where the L28 sensor is located. False knock can be a real pain with forged pistons.

None of the flanges pictured will do you any good. This is what the flange needed to bolt up to the turbo looks like. These are the ones I had machined to make the last set of DPs.

Someone else asked me the same question in an email so I will post the response here: --------------- The stock GN I/C is limited in how much HP it can support but the GNers do not really know what that limit is. There are 2 problems with it. When making big HP, the necks are a little restrictive but there is a "Big-neck" kit that fixes that. http://gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/duttneck.html The other issue is that in the GN it sits between the radiator and the engine!!! What a stupid design! The radiator side is boxed in with air entering the box from the bottom and the engine side has a fan on the crank pulley. Even with that it still gets heat-soaked, defeating the purpose of an I/C. In the Z it would be an FMIC and not have the heat-soak issue. So with the big-neck kit and mounted as a FMIC, it would be pretty darn good. Will it support 450hp? If it is 450RWHP, I would say no if it is unmodified and iffy with a big-neck. What will definitely work is what they refer to as an "I/C and a half". Basically extending the stock core by adding half of another core to it and extending the tanks. If you can weld aluminum or have someone to do it cheaply, you can make a very good and cheap solution. This URL will give you an idea. http://gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/intercoolers/afvsstock.html ----------------

'63 vintage Impala front hub fits the Z spindle. Contact MikeKZ for details as he has them on his hybrid.

Unless you are planning on building a bone-stock or very low-HP engine, you need absolutely none of the stock EFI components.

OH! I thought Whoopi Goldberg bought a 350Z.

There have been several posts in the past about adapting a GN I/C for use a FMIC in a Z car. I have seen it done in a 280ZXT and I believe someone else here is or has done it. There are a couple for sale on the Buick forums for $75/ea, so make a move quick if interested. http://www.turbobuicks.com/ubb/Forum11/HTML/001416.html

Click on the link at the bottom of my sig. Have not updated it in months and too distracted and busy to finish the new site I have been working on.

Anyone know of or thought of converting the rear quarter windows to a flip-out design? I think that would greatly improve the poor ventilation on early Zs and reduce or eliminate exhaust fumes. I know it would be extremely difficult to make the entire assembly hinge and swing out, so how about this idea? Imagine if the entire glass was replaced by a piece of Lexan but with the center cut out to match the original shape about 1" from the edge. Cut another piece of Lexan the same size but slighter shorter on the wide end. It would overlay the other piece but have a hinge to pivot from the wide end, have a latch on the narrow end and a seal all around it. Am I making sense? Surely someone else must of thought of this.

Hey Greg, Whats new with the GN? I just got back from Reynolds.

You need to put the conventional NA thinking out of your mind. The turbo, I/C, exhaust, the stuff you bolt on, is what will make you the HP you need. If your car weighs in at 3,000 or a little less, you need 300rwhp to go 12.90 @ 110 and you do not need a cam, porting or compression to do that. MOF, you do not have to take off the valve cover. Hard to tell exactly what you actually have from your sig, but if you have a t3/t04 and Merkur injs, then, (REPEAT), get rid of the Conquest I/C for something better, get a free-flowing exhaust, upgraded fuel pump, and sticky tires. Use high-grade gasoline and start turning the boost up and TUNE, TUNE, TUNE. You have a long way to go before you need the stuff you are asking about and you cannot run with them w/o doing what I am telling you anyway.

Completely different engine. We have a S-charged version in our grocery getters but the hot-rod crowd is starting to catch on to its potential. Check out this link for lots of info on the new 3800: http://www.thrashercharged.com/l67_htm/L67.shtm Be sure to look at the engine teardown in the Tehnical Information section. After you read that you can understand how your boys can run that engine so hard. Then you think about the turbo 3.8L, the GNX and have to ask yourself, "Buick?".

81naZX, glad to see you cleared that up. I believe, however, you meant RX-4 not RX-3. I am quite certain the RX-2 and RX-3 only came with the 12A and the 13B was introduced in the US in the RX-4 followed by the Cosmo.

Mat, that is called the vacuum block. Douglas, since Buick stopped making the LC2 3.8 in 87 (it was in the TTA in 89), chances are that the Holdens down there have the new 3800 which is a completely different engine. The older 3.8 in turbo can make up to 550rwhp with the stock cam with the power falling off early with stock heads and about 5300+ with ported heads. Cam upgrades rarely get pushed much pass 6200. This engine is all about torque not RPMs. The older NA was never popular and I doubt you could find anyone here doing anything with it. Double-check that Holden 3.8 and let me know which one it is.

Mat, if you can get the measurements before next week that would be great. Helo, You are not going to get 6500 out of a standard Buick turbo. You need a Stage2 engine to get that RPM. The stage2 engine is a factory beefed-up version that was used in NA form in the Busch GN, ARCA and Indy Lights and in turbo form in stock-block Indy cars. 400hp is the norm for the NA with 6500 being easy and no problem with a manual tranny. Since both series no longer exists, those engines are available but the turbo crowd is gobbling them up, so bring lots of moolah. In turbo form, 1200+ is not out of the norm. One of my buddies here in the Orlando area will have his at Reynolds this weekend. Stage2 destroked to 3.5L, TT and pulling 9000+ (yes, pushrods). Car runs 8.30s in a GN so probably close to 1200rwhp. As for acceleration, I am not sure the 944 gearing is going to match the GN well. However, a 435hp GN in a 944 will generate frightening acceleration numbers. To give you some idea, I am at 480hp and plugged my quickest timeslip into a program that uses calculus to generate an acceleration curve. Results? 0-60 in 2.34 and 0-100 in 6.15 Not sure if those numbers are useful for anything but drag racing or a power road course. You could be one busy puppy on the autoX course. Not tyring to discourage you from the GN option, just trying to edumucate you. I know of a 924 swap already underway, a 944 that is already done and someone else considering it. I will dig that info up for you when I get back.

Early vintage TVRs had a SBF, but you can forget about finding one and paying for it. TVR Griffith 200 & 400 (1963-65) TVR Tuscan (1967-70)

Hopefully you can wait until next week. I am up to my neck in "get ready" for the trip this weekend with a 5am Fri morning start and I have to work tomorrow.