Scottie-GNZ

I am going up to SilverDollar Raceways in Reynolds, GA this weekend. There will probably be a few hybrids there. Think you can make it even just to show it? See my post in Announcements for details.

Mike, you are doing great on the budget for the garage project. Remember when you were here I told you mine cost $15K and considering your extras, you are ahead of the game. Good luck on all you are doing.

Mine mounts before the turbo and 1590s seems to be what it likes with good race gas.

Hang out in the classifieds on the Turbo Buicks boards. Have money ready to go and check the boards couple times a day. When they do pop up you have to be ready. www.turbobuicks.com www.turbobuick.com Yes, there are 2. As for turbo'ing a 4.3L, go to the Sy/Ty forums and hang out to see if anyone converted to turbo or have discussed it.

944LT1, nice work. How is the turbo transaxle holding up? Where are you located?

Bob, great responses. TBS, my LSD is long gone. I also do not make the DP anymore but it did not fit the 280ZX anyway. If your car weighs in at 2800# w/driver, you need about 325rwhp (note I said RWHP) to go 12.30 @ 114. With a better I/C and 3" exhaust (you did not say what you have), you all all the pieces to do it. As you can see from Bob's post, you can only get 110 in 4th with your combo. This assumes a normal diameter tire. Since you are going to need something sticky to run low-12s, then a 235/60-15 DR (26") will do the trick or or a 3.70 LSD with a normal <25" sticky tire. No getting away from the tire upgrade unless you get real good at slipping the clutch off the line to not light up the street tires.

LC2

That is taking my comment a little out of context, isn't it? Heed Grumpy's warning. I do believe money is a factor here so remember that the cost of HP is cheap relative to the cost of reliability.

Drax has a great site but my link to it does not work anymore. Maybe he can chime in.

Robert, I am sure this group will debate it to death, but IMO, "reliable, street engine" and 8000 RPMs sounds like a contradiction. Just curious, why the obsession with high-RPMS when torque is what rules on the street. MOF, my question itself will probably start a debate Oh yeah, WELCOME.

http://www.dupontregistry.com/search/srDetails.asp?itemid=71130&sessionkey= Considering how light it should be, hi-11s sounds a little sluggish with 24psi boost, even if it was bone stock. One of my favorites nonetheless. Study that car from the windshield forward and tell me what it looks like.

Hard to believe that with your mods and a 3.90 you could finish the 1/4-mile in 3rd gear. The math just does not support it. All 5-spds have a 1.308 3rd gear. Combined with a 3.90 and an assumed tire diameter of 25", you can only get a tad less than 86mph at 6000RPMs in 3rd. So, either the car is EXTREMELY slow in the 1/4-mile or the 1/4-mile marker is way off. Even running a conservative boost level, you should be at or better than 100mph with a hybrid turbo, putting you around 5380RPMs in 4th.

Doug, did you actually speak to someone about my "situation"? Who did you speak with, Corky? What did they say?

Boost does not break engines, detonation does. Serious detonation at 13psi will break an engine easier than one running 26psi w/o detonation.

[humor]Transform it into a Z-car[/humor]

Imagine trimming 800lbs off the weight . Then imagine adding another 200hp

I had a recent discussion with Cartech and they told me mine was good for 550hp. I take that to mean 520 in the real world. My core (240Z Turbo's old unit) is 27.5x8x2.5, so you see you are not limited to 20". The size of the core will depend on how the tanks are mounted. Side-mounted tanks will be narrower/taller and top/bottom tanks will be shorter/wider. I prefer shorter/wider cores. The cooling surface area will probably be the same but shorter/wider cores will usually flow more, IF THE TUBES RUN TOP-TO-BOTTOM. One of the keys to flow is the total area of the tube openings in the tanks. An easy correlation (w/o doing the math) is that a 2" pipe, 10' long will have the same volume as a 4" pipe 5' long, but the 4" pipe will flow more. I know it's not 100% accurate, so lets not break out slide rules and get picky . I sometimes cringe when I see the Ricer I/Cs that are short/wide but only have like 4 long tubes.

Buy more Lotto tickets!!! Note the valley webbing and the 6-bolt mains. They are talking 2000hp potential in race form. http://www.arizonagn.com/New_Products.htm

Isn't it interesting that as you look at that engine, the intake runners appear to be 90* of the intake ports on the heads? Anyone else notice that?

As I read the post I was thinking head gasket or misaligned intake gasket until you said head studs. I am guessing you are using ARP head studs. If this is the case and you already have leaked a lot of water, I hate to say it, but the heads and pan have to come off. Been there, done that. Head studs naturally act like a wick and a lot of them on the Buick go into the water jacket so you have to do a little prep work and use a special sealant on the studs. Drop me an email.

You are wrong If the 86 has the turbo on top of the rear of the intake, then it either has a pre-86 engine (referred to as "Hot-Airs", i.e., no I/C) or the car is not an 86.

Dan, how is the rebuild coming along?

I am using federal Mogul hypers and they have been in the engine since Dec '00 with about 140-150 passes on them. I do not run at the track w/o race gas and use the best components to prevent detonation. Most important of all is how carefully you tune and monitor. I basically tune the engine to run as hard as it can w/o detonation. For my setup, that is 26psi boost with the EGT registering about 1600* through the traps. Sounds frightening, but again, the key is no detonation.

Actually, 86 & 87 GN and the Firebird TTAs.