Scottie-GNZ

- Highway Star - Anything by Rush - Anything by Jean-Michele Jarre.

Pete, 555Rs is Nitto's DR. I got caught in a bad rainstorm last night and I was so concerned about the INCREDIBLY LOUSY 240Z wipers and inside the car fogging up, I completely forgot I was going at a fairly good clip with those tires. Do not try that with BFG DRs. Not only are the wipers SLLOOOWWWW, the 2nd speed stopped working. Guess I will have to resort to Rain-X and RAIN-X Anti-fog. Sorry, this is a tire response, isn't it, but I have to do something for that 1000-mile trip next month. Nothing worse than oncoming headlight glare from a fogged-up 31-yr old windshield Even with the wide 275s, the car was stable in the rain and never once aquaplaned. I did not hit any big puddles but it never felt squirmy.

I got you covered. I will email you this eveining with details.

Charles, nice going for such a mild setup. What kind of tires? Street radials I suspect. 2.17 60' is just giving away too much ET at the line. I know I sound like a broken record, but a hybridZ or hi-boost Z needs DRs. That magical 1.80 I keep harping on would have you in the 13.0s with a little practice.

You talking about me on the web? http://rbp.f0e.net/forum.php3?d=834185

I would try to find a P90 to lessen the chance of detonation.

His website for the RX-7 is www.misred.com It has a gazillion pics but not currently labeled so you just have to go through them all. Tedious and a lot related to the GN drivetrain but worth it for someone doing a V-8 FC. He is running the stock GXL IRS and is waiting for Grannys to finish a 3.27 R&P they have been promising for a while. He also has a C4 diff and one of these days we will seriously look at how we can fit that in the FC IRS.

Nope, but the price just doubled After all, it is PROVEN!

As some of you know, I helped a buddy build a GN-powered 2nd-gen RX-7 and we have been testing to make sure all is OK with the swap using a stock drivetrain he pulled out of a used car he bought. This engine is in the car until a more "powerful" engine is put together. The car has the stock turbo, but a massive FMIC, upgraded pump (Walbro ..), 50# injs, 3" DP and a single 3" pipe into 2 2.5" with Ultraflows. This car is so quiet, you can barely hear it from 60' away when he is doing a burnout!! This past Wed night some serious tuning was done and after Mike Kelly and Jeff left, the car ripped off 12.33 @ 118 with a lousy 1.99 60'. It does not have a line-loc and he gets the brakes too hot trying to heat up the tires then they do not hold at the line trying to build boost. What is so amazing is that the car has a 4.11 and probably weighs in at 3100+ with driver and about 50+lbs of tools and stuff in the trunk. That translates to 390rwhp and we were not even looking to come close. We are now obsessed with getting a 1.70 60' and getting an 11.99 before pulling out this stock drivetrain. The ULTIMATE SLEEPER and the other engine will have at least another 130hp! and be no louder or less driveable. Sorry, I know it is not a Z but just thought I would share it. BTW, Tim, this is the drivetrain you were interested in buying.

Big Chris, if the engine you are considering is the one that Boobala has pictured, I see 2 possible problems. 1. Possible interference with that cast oil pan and the front cross-member 2. It is a tall engine and the more forward it is in the enginebay, the worse #1 will be, engine-front/radiator/fan clearance is worse and you will certainly have to mod the hood towards the front. That mod would probably be like a cowl-induction hood but starting further forward and quite possibly wider. Good luck, but research it thoroughly before taking it on. Nothing like starting a project and discovering it is a lot harder that you anticipated.

Mike/John, my comment was not directed just to you, but a general obversation and one I probably ought to just keep to myself. I have a street car but since I do not street race I do not tune it for optimal pump gas performance. I do hope my comment was understood though and that the concern was extended WOT at the racetrack. I would just hate to see someone tune on the street with pump gas and then have a problem running extended WOT on the track. It is just not the same conditions.

Have you actually weighed one? You might be surprised, so find out for sure.

Hey John, good luck in whatever you decide to do, but it leaves me scratching my head. I just cannot understand why folks will make a major investment in buidling up a high-boost forced-induction or hi-c.r. NA engine then take it to the track and try to run it all-out on pump gas. Not only are you not tapping the full potential of the engine, you are at risk of doing damage. Be careful as there is a big difference between a quick stab on the street and running WOT down a drag strip or a straightaway.

Owen, those are NHRA rules out of the "General Rules" section so I assume it applies to any car. Thanks all for the input.

http://www.southfloridatuners.com/Earl_Hinds/earlscar.htm Contact Earl and ask him about the Corolla Mitsu/Supra swap. He makes mention of it in the first line below the pics.

IMO, not enough octane to hold WOT for extended periods with that c.r. When racing, try adding a little race gas to the mix. Adding just 1 gal of 110-octane to 7 gals of 93 raises the octane to 95.125. Cheap investment to safely maximize the engine or you will probably have to keep backing off the timing until it stops. In almost every decent sized town there is a service station that sells race gas at the pump (fill into gas can only). Here it is $3.49/gal and if you buy 2 gals on the way to the track, that is $7 vs probably $3.20 for the Amoco premium. The one drawback is that it willcontaminate your O2 (if you use one) but with a mix like that it will take a while.

Brad, you want an I/C with the top drawing you made. If you have 2 I/Cs with an identical core size of 18x8, the core that has many 8" tubes will flow more than the one that has less 18" tubes. The key is the volume that can leave the end-tank and enter the tubes and that is determined by the total area of all the open tube ends in the end-tank. See the pic I just posted in the discussion about catch-cans in MIsc.

I HATE YOU

Mike, I have been using the stock Z bottle for quite some time and have no problem getting through tech.

Owen, that someone is wrong (as usual, not having the facts). MOF, Moroso is the only NHRA-certified plastic box. Crap, it is always something with NHRA. A cutoff switch is also mandatory with a relocated battery. The following are excerpts from the NHRA rules FAQ: I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need? Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050. But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back. This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.

For those of you with a trunk-mounted battery, what gauge cables are you using and how did you do the ground?

I did a trial fit last night of the C4 12" brakes and 5-lug conversion. I was hoping to have it on the road this weekend and run it Wed night but that is now out of the question. Lots of "honey-dos" and a forgotten BBQ to attend. I expected the clearance the between the tire and the spring perch to be very close and it it is touching. Easily solved with a 3/8" spacer but I do not want the wheel/tire sticking out any further than I designed it for. I plan to raise the spring perch about 1.5" and I can hear some of you fainting from disbelief Worked great for my rear suspension and if it does not work out, I will have wasted $20 and will go for coilovers. Encountered another problem that is not really one I am concerned with. The C4 caliper is WIDE! and at full lock the bottom inside corner touches the T/C rod. However, it only touches when the suspension is at full droop. If I jack up the control arm to what I think is normal ride height, no interference. Since I am not a rally driver I cannot ever envision being at full lock and full droop at the same time on the street. Later I have the option to build a different rod that gives clearance and has adjustability. have not put it on the ground yet but I declare it a success as those are the only typesof issues I expected. Here is the adaptor welded onto the strut. Little difficult tomake out because it is painted black. Here is everything mounted up. Here is the front wheel/tire mounted up. 17x8.5 with 225/45-17s.

DJ, if you are coming to Montgomery, sign up on the event webpage so we can post a pic of your car in the attendee list. That car will certainly draw some attention at the meet.

Sometimes we need to step back and understand better what our needs are and not get caught up the hype of which pump flows more, etc. Nathan, I agree with you and unfortunately that is the nature of marketing, but lets take a look at this pump in more detail. How many L28ETs out there are going to run 70psi? That would mean you are running aftermarket injs with a base pressure of 43psi and 27psi boost! I am close, running 42psi base and 24psi boost on my Pierburg. Lets be a little more realistic and say you run 65psi (43 base + 22). The table says the hi-pressure 255lph pump is pushing about 190lph @ 65psi, which is 50.189 gals or 401.585lbs/hr. That can feed 6 67lb injs which can support 602hp at a conservative 80% duty cycle. That is why the Buicks use them and, yes, I know the Buicks use less fuel (more efficient? ..) but I hardly think the average hi-po L28ET is in danger of running out of fuel. Even the "lowly" 190lph low-pressure pump at a more sane 60psi will support 6 42psi injs for 383hp. That of course leaves no margin for the big boys and therefore is not a choice.

What we have here is a classic case of misinformation. The Walbro pump used in that test was a GSS250 rated at 190lph. Walbro makes a standard and a high-pressure pump and the GSS250 is not a high-pressure pump. The pump the Zers want is the GSS392, high-pressure and rated 255lph. If you want to see a more accurate comparison of pump performance, look at this link. the 3 Walbros listed are the 190lph GSS250, the 255lph standard pressure and the GSS392 255lph, hi-pressure. Note the performance of the 3 at 60 & 70psi, where it counts and then you see the advantage of the GSS392 above 70psi. Again, before anyone jumps to the conclusion that someting "SUCKS", be certain you have the facts. http://www.supras.nl/view.php?page=modsFuelPump.htm