Scottie-GNZ

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=291155

Boy, I need to get in this business. I see them in my other Porsche catalogs also. They are specifically "designed" to reduce flex in the 911 Targas. Won't question their function, but.... 4' section of aluminum tube - $15 (4) heim joints/jam nuts - $40 L & R hand threaded taps - $40 (if you do not already have them) 10 minutes labor and sell that puppy for $199! Buy 8' lengths of tubing and the joints in bulk and you are ready for a Swiss bank account

I am assuming this is for drag racing with slicks, so IMO, go for a Ford 9" solid rear. This will allow you to maximize the launch capability and not worry about breaking anything in the rear. The tranny is another story as I doubt a T56 can hold up to that abuse. If this is a drag race only car (not sure you want to drive a 800hp Z-car on the street), I think you need to seriously look towards a P-Glide or TH400. Ron Jones, Jap Tin, et al, can chime in here.

Make sure the reverse lockout is adjusted/working properly.

Is this after the valve springs swapout? I hope you were on 417 or somewhere in the backroads of Boggy Creek. I know it is pointless to try and preach to the masses, but to you and others I know personally, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE BE CAREFUL! You and Jeff know the black supercharged Jetta and we might even have stopped to talk with him and his buddy in the pits. Well, he was racing a Mustang on SR50 (OF ALL PLACES. HOW STOOOPID!) and they crashed. The Jetta was hit so hard, it split in 2! He survived but his buddy died instantly. Now, not only has he lost the car, but he has to live the rest of his life haunted with his friend's death and he will surely be jailed for involuntary manslaughter. This young man just ruined his life and chances are he will not get another license. ...AND FOR WHAT? Sorry, folks. They had a memorial at the track for him last night and it hit me emotionally. Will you be ready to go out Wed night? I am planning on going out again but not driving. I want to give the old lady some seat time. Low boost (18psi ), street timing and DRs.

Bob, track width is measured from the center of the tires and can only equal an "hub-to-hub" measurement if the wheels have a 0 offset. The C4 has a 10" tire, so the track was measured at the 5" mark of the tires. The C4 wheel is 8.5" wide with a 32mm offset, making the hub mount point about 1.26" from the point that the track was measured. 1.26" on both sides added to the track = about 63" hub-to-hub. Clear as mud? BTW, the tire spec on that club's site is incorrect and should be 255/50-16. That IRS is a 240SX, I believe. Not sure if it still available, but I had access to it if I wanted it.

I have the Hoosiers on the car now so it would not be the best measurement. However, read this and see if it makes sense. http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm

This question always seems to turn into a big debate. I will throw in my $.02, and rest assured that it is mostly from experience, but I do have my biases . Just saying you want to run 11s begs for more questions. Low-11s or Hi-11s? When you get down to this level, that is a big HP difference. Pump gas or race gas? Street tires or DRs/slicks? If your goal is to run low-11s on pump gas with street tires, you better do the internals because you will need lots of HP on the top-end to make up for a slow launch and with pump gas you are putting your self on the edge. Regardless, the primary focus should be on components that eliminate detonation. I could have said components that make more HP, but I prefer the approach of eliminating detonation. The more effective you are at limiting detonation, the more boost you can run, the more HP you will make. Forged pistons are better at tolerating detonation, but your primary focus should be to eliminate detonation. I am not saying you do not need forged pistons, but if the goal is hi-11s at the track with sticky tires and NOT PUMP GAS, IMO you do not need them. What this means is no cheap, OEM I/Cs, no fiddling with the AFM and stock ECM, no stock injs/turbo/pump, etc AND NO STREET TIRES. I know folks will make claims with OEM I/Cs, but there is no way I can be convinced that you can double the HP of a L28ET using an I/C that was designed for an engine that makes less HP than a stock L28ET. Folks pushing Starion, Volvo, etc I/Cs to the limit might be surprised at the pressure drop and intake temps. The only exception to this would be the med & big NPRs, other big turbo-diesels, 944T and MKIV SupraTT. Whatever you do, do not skimp here. Because we measure boost at the intake, it is difficult to tell when the I/C has hit its flow limit. What we end up doing is turning up the boost with little increase at the intake but a now with a lot more heat. Most aftermarket I/Cs have a flow rating. Divide that number by 1.5 to get an estimate of how much HP it can support before encountering pressure drop. The stock injs, pump and FPR have to be upgraded. For a rough estimate, use a formula that estimates the HP an inj can support at 80% duty cycle. It is a conservative estimate and running a higher DC and more fuel pressure will net more HP but it is a good baseline. HP at 80% DC = (inj flow rate/7) * # of cyls. E.g., the SVO 370cc injs would equate to about 320hp and with a higher DC and fuel pressure, a lot more. You need an adjustable FPR to be able to change the FP and you must have a pump that can match that fuel demand. I am not going to get into a debate on the benefits of a programmable system or which one is best, but I would not run this HP level w/o one. W/o one, you can certainly fool the system into dumping more fuel but you are typically stuck with that extra fuel in all driving conditions. But, you need more than added fuel at WOT/high boost, you also need timing or to be specific, be able to retard timing as boost increases. Add-on systems like the MSD work but you end up nickel/dimeing yourself and spending almost as much as a programmable system in the long run. Now that you have the components that can eliminate detonation, you can now turn up the boost. The stock turbo pushed to 17-18psi will net lots of HP but with a lot of heat and on the ragged edge. The right upgrade, like a t3/t04 hybrid will make lots more HP. Along with the turbo is the exhaust flow and a restrictive DP and exhaust will only serve to put backpressure in the turbo generating more heat. The best DP available and a 3" free-flow exhaust is the way to go. Note how many times I mentioned the word HEAT. It is the enemy of turbo systems. Tires, my favorite hot-button. Unless you have lots of seat time, trick suspension and running on a well-prepped track, it is hard to run 11s on street tires. It takes more than just big HP to run quick ETs. The 60' is real key. You lose/gain .15 in the ET for every .1 in the 60'. If you have to buy tires anyway, get a pair of Nitto DRs for the rear. They will gain you, on the average, .3-.4 in the 60' and that equates to about .5 or more in the ET. Folks end up spending $$$ to gain .5 on the ET when that is there to be gained by improving the 60'. In summary, the car Z-GAD referred to has the following: 71 240Z, 3.70 LSD, 225/50-15 street tires, stock L28ET longblock, re-ringed, fresh bearings, Spearco I/C, t3/t04 turbo, SDS, 600cc injs, Pierburg pump. The time was accomplished by a driver with lots of seat time and it was run with 22psi boost. Do I recommend this? NO! The owner also followed the philosophy to run it hard and if it breaks just get another JY motor. As you can see, the focus was on the components I mentioned. That time eqautes to about 350RWHP. If you plan to push the engine beyond that and insist on running pump gas, you need to do some internal work. Having said all of that, if you have the $$$ for forged pistons and want to do them, by all means. I just think folks underestimate the quality and strength of the Nissan components.

Yo, what is that heat exchanger out of?

Here is some technical info you all might find useful. In the list of kits at the bottom, the Steve Chlupsa kit is a popular and proven one among the Buick turbo crowd. http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/alcohol.html

What Doug said. I installed mine in the pass-side storage bin so I can reach it with my right hand while still driving. Since someone will ask, the relay is for the fuel pump.

There is a slight chance you will not be using the stock Datsun 0 offset wheels with this swap so why limit yourself to a hub-to-hub measurement that matches the Z exactly? The important measurement is the from the outside edges of the tires positioned as far out as possible without rubbing the fenders. E.g., late Cobra and Z-28/TransAm/Vettes have wheels with about 6" BS. That is about 3" more BS ON EACH SIDE than a stock Z wheel. What does that mean? The solid diff can be way wider hub-to-hub than a Z and still fit with those wheels. Since you will be cutting off all the solid rear stock attachment points and redoing them for the Z, you basically have little restrictions. As for needing a DANA60, you don't. I am running a DANA36 with Hoosier QTPs. The DANA36 is equivalent to the R200 (8") and we know the R200 is not a weak point. The DANA44 ring gear diameter is slightly (and I mean slight) larger, but the R&P is beefier. That is the difference.

As BLKMGK stated, alcohol/water is very popular among the Buick turbo crowd. It is not a crutch but an alternative to running high boost w/o race gas because of the cost of race gas and O2 contamination. BLKMGK is also correct in that it does not make as much HP as race gas. It is not uncommon for a turbo Buick limited to 15-16psi boost on the street with 93-octane to run 23-24psi with the alcohol injection.

Guys, just thought I would let you know that battery box in the picture is not NHRA legal. If you never plan on putting your car on the track, especially one that is a stickler for the rules, then it is OK.

Standard practice in high-$$ engine and all-out race engines.

Sorry folks, been catching up on the honey-dos and looking into fixing my hatch. The mounting brackets on my hatch broke causing it to raise up and not even touch the seal. Can you say fumes? The trip home was even worse, raining most of the way and a driving rainstorm from Gainesville. I cannot vouch for a non-GN 200-4R, but the GN version (code BRF) can certainly withstand 500+ lb/ft of torque. That is about where my engine is and all I have is a shift kit, a stock converter upped to 2800 stall and a trans-brake. Again, not sure about the non-GN trans, but the GN lock-up converter is controlled by the ECM and locks it at about 45mph, but does not lock up in 1st or at WOT. I wired the lock-up through a switch and hit the switch about 2-secs after the 2-3. The stock GN converter (code D5) is a 12" unit and heavy but has a 2400 stall and can be had cheap. My 2800 upgrade was only $175/exchange. If the converter is not stamped "D5", it is not a GN converter, so look for that. I am sure someone like TCI must sell a module to control lockup automatically or you might be able to do it manually by tapping into the solenoid plug on the tranny. I will see if I can find the schematics for that. I am also using the Pro-Ratchet and it should click 3 times, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 and with the lockup, that actually makes it a 5-spd . be aware that you must be using the correct detent and the B&M cable. Take a look at the tranny mount I use. I believe I still have the specs laying around somewhere. I also have a feeling the JTR mount would also work with maybe a spacer here and there. After all, they are bouth simple affairs that bolt to the floor. HTHs and here are some pics that might also help. Tranny Crossmember Note JTR VSS (yellow) Pro-Ratchet (cover not powder-coated black)

It is hard to put a specific HP number to your question. You make as much as you can until you start detonating. How much that is depends on how efficient your add-ons are. These include the I/C, fuel system (injs, pump, FPR, etc), ignition control (absolutely critical that you have a way to retard timing as boost increases), and the quality of the fuel you use. Higher octane will allow you to make more power safely. Running high octane is expensive, so an alternative is adding an alcohol-injection system.

It is not a stupid question if you do not know the answer.

You guys willing to live w/o OD?

24psi on the twin turbos AND NOS Guess I should apologize and ask you for a spot.

My 2-cents. Don't know how much you paid for it, but I can guarantee you will get at least $300 on ebay, then use that to get something else more in line with what you need, like an NPR or 944 Turbo or MKIV Supra.

Anthony, I will bet anything your traction problem at the strip is because of those 17s. As I stated in another post, I went from low-1.60s and a couple of 1.55s with 15" & 16" DRs to a best of 1.82 with 275/40-17 Nittos and most of the time I just blow them away. I truly regret going to 17s because now I cannot use just one tire for street and strip. BTW, if anyone is interested, someone in Miami is building a GN/510.

Based on my experience, DO NOT TRY TO RUN THAT HARD WITH 17" DRs! That short, stiff sidewall does not allow the tire to hook up. I went from low-1.60s with a couple of 1.55s with 275/50-15s and 255/50-16s to a best of 1.82 with 275/40-17s. Most of the time I just blow them away off the line.

Thank You

maybe Z-GAD has a pic of his 280Z with 16x8 black mesh with 245/45-16s.