Scottie-GNZ

Except for the Buschur race car which uses a 2-spd Powerglide, all the rear-drive DSM-powered cars I have seen use the Supra 5-spd tranny. I have no idea which model or how they adapt it. Use Google to search the web using all the right keywords and I am sure you will find something. One that I know of was an old-school Corolla that ran out of the Wrightouch (sp?) shop in SO FL. They had (have?) the quickest FWD DSM in the world. I even have a pic of that Corolla somewhere in my old L28ET webpage because it used an NPR and not even the biggest one. Another option is to contact Buschur and see how he fit the powerglide and if it is an adaptor plate, could it be used with a GM tranny.

Search for Racetronix and give them a call. Be certain to tell them you want the in-line version which I believe is model 392.

Look up 240Z Turbo and let him tell you about his setup.

Hey Keith, there was an 87 RX-7 with a SBC at the track last night. He had 275/60-15 BFG DRs and there was not an inch of clearance but I did not see or hear any signs of it rubbing. he is still running the stock 4.10 with a TH350 and would roll itoff the line and nail. Not good for quick 60' and was getting 2.0s. Not sure of the details of the engine but he was spraying (how much?). He ran 12.46 @ 114+ and says his best his 11.91. Nice looking car and a well done swap.

That is an excellent point! 2 engines making the same HP, no matter what the displacement, theoretically will consume the same fuel. However, if one is tuned to run leaner it will consume less. The GNs now have a device that evens fuel distribution in the plenum and guys are now pushing the WOT O2 voltage down to .76. My EGT probe is in my exhaust header just before the turbo and I tune for 1600*F!!. All of that said, how many L28s are pushing 430+rwhp and need that much fuel at WOT? One of the problems that folks are not aware of is the problem of pump voltage at WOT. When I ran the L28ET, I had no traction and ran lousy ETs but almost 111mph with the stock T3. I then switched to a hybrid and the 60' dropped from 2.1 to 1.74 just because the boost was more controllable. The car gained .26 in the ET as a result of the 60' but absolutely died on the top-end with only 105mph. No amount of SDS tuning helped. Long story to say I later discovered that the original fuel pump wire terminals was not only corroded but the gauge was too thin. Never measured it but I bet I did not have 10V at the pump at WOT!!! Most of the time when a pump is not delivering at WOT, it is because of insufficient voltage. Any turbo car looking to make HP with hi-po pump should run a 10-gausge + from the battery to the pump through a relay and use the original wire to trigger the relay and run the pump - with a 10-gauge directly to the battery. Another thing you need to do is temporarily connect a FP gauge to the rail with a long hose that allows you see the FP at boost. Majority of the times those 2 are the problems folks face at high boost.

Yup, there is definitely something wrong but lets close that disparate gap a little. Hope I am not wrong, but desktop dyno is flywheel HP and the dyno is rwhp. Taking the conservative approach and using the low number and a 17.5% driveline loss, thats about 382+rwhp. You cannot compare the HP results of a dyno with anything else but your car or another car run on the same dyno under the same conditions. Dynos vary depending on the type and one of the popular ones here is town registers numbers about 20% below actual. You definitely need to tune but only use the dyno number to compare the progress you are making, not to compare to desktop dyno or some other car's claims or results from another dyno. Good luck and thats a nice combo so work at it.

Gee, just about every about powerful Turbo Buick on the planet uses Walbro. I am talking 500-600rwhp engine running 45psi base and 25-30psi boost. We really need to stop staying a product, in general, sucks because of your own experience with it. No problem in saying you had a bad experience with. We have a lot of folks looking for advice and guidance and I believe that is the wrong impression to give of a product. Sorry if that infuriates anyone.

With the hybrid turbo/stock injs combo, the question is not will it run right but how much boost can you run safely. Once you go to larger injs then you face another issue with the stock ECM/AFM. A programmable system does not so much mess with the inj pulse as it allows you to control fuel delivery, ignition advance, very important, ignition retard as you increase boost. The stock ECM/AFM was designed for about 7-9psi and anything above that requires "fooling" the system. As fast as you want to go, that is not safe. Find some of the guys who are having success with the stock ECM/AFM and a lot of boost and get their help. I would be willing to bet though that most are just winging it and their tuneup is probably off a bit but still getting good results. With the combo you specified, bigger injs and good fuel management, it should easily outpeform the old 327/4-spd combo.

Mark, I forgot the weight I used so I worked backwards and got 2790lbs w/driver. The 12.69 equates to 266.4rwhp. Not much change in the HP since the MPH was the same. More MPH is the real indicator of HP increase. The quicker ET was probably mostly from a better 60' with the DR. I would probably guess your 60' improvement was about .14. BTW, here is the formula: Sqaure the MPH then divide it by the ET, then multiply that number by the weight with driver divided by 1000, then divide that number by 9.1. Once again, that is rwhp. In your case it would be: (((105*105)/12.69)*2.79)/9.1

Scott, sure he did not say 2.8L V-6 with a turbo? The GTs came with a 2.8L 60* V-6.

This is what I used until recently. Combined with KVR carbon pads, 280ZX 15/16" m/c and 280ZX 2+2 booster, it was a very good option. My problem is that I have 11.5" rear brakes and could not take advantage of them and I got a good buy on 12" Vette brakes. However, they found a good home and will continue to stop a hybrid.

Why is that? That is the only way to do it correctly. Not as easy as you think. Remember, you are dealing with the stock ECM and AFM!

Jon, boy, you are quite the lurker. Almost 8 months and only 3 posts. Don't be shy . Not sure what you mean by 400bph. At the flywheel or at the wheels? Big difference. At the flywheel, you have the right combo to do it comfortably. At the wheels, you will need more injs and race gas at the track pushing 20+psi boost. With forged pistons and race gas you can really crank up the boost and make power. If you want 400 at the wheels in street trim and pump gas, then you need some head work and maybe a bigger turbo to do it with less boost.

Zank, I assume "La" means Louisiana. Would love to see you bring that hybrid to the meet we are planning in Sept in Montgomery, AL. See details in "Announcements".

Embolism? Is that what's wrong with me? . I am currently running 24psi and feel I can squeeze out a couple more. Scott, DO NOT FIGHT IT, ENJOY IT!! Just do it safely. No, not a condom, RACE GAS and a LOT of tuning.

The problem you are describing is a common mistake made by folks installing an SDS (just ask me ..) and not putting the ECM and coilpacks on a circuit that is hot while cranking.

VERY NICE!!! To all Zers out there, support your fellow Zers who are also vendors. It is highly unlikely you will ever get scr*w*d by someone on this forum and when you need support, they are only a log-in away.

VA driver, my fronts, until recently were 4-lugs. The 5-lugs on the rear is standard for the C4 IRS I have installed. I am finsihing up the 5-lug conversion with C4 12" brakes for the fronts but the Z hub cannot support the wide Chevy 5x4.75 bolt pattern. I am using late Chevy style wheels with a very deep BS and have to make my own adaptor.

I forgot the brand I have (Biondo?), but it is also about $60. Been using it for a couple of years and no hint of needing a rebuild.

In a street car, an I/C sprayer is a quick-fix for an inefficient I/C. If the I/C is not efficient enough to cool the charge, it most likely is also inefficient in the flow. Rally cars need might need them because they are at full boost for long periods and the elements they race in sometimes cause the fins to become clogged. If you are looking to push a lot of boost, the I/C is a pay-me-now or pay-me-later affair. Pay up front for the efficient I/C you need or go for a cheapie then pay again to have it upgraded or for add-ons like being discussed here. An I/C has to be efficient at flow AND getting rid of heat. An I/C built to be efficient at one is more likely to be good at the other also.

One of these days I hope to see people stop making statements like this.

Be very careful here Most Z folks looking to do this are going to try and do it on the cheap and as Lockjaw stated, it must evaporate on the I/C!!! If you install one that does not evaporate, you are going to have water dripping right in the path of your rear wheels. This is why most drag racing sanctions dislike them.

Stony, are you using a knock sensor and are you allowing the ECM to pull out timing when it gets the knock signal? This is a battle I have been fighting for a long time and have concluded it is false knock, meaning the knock sensor is sensing something but it is not the result of a lean condition. It is either something touching or just bad harmonics. Luckily, with the chip I am using I can tell it to ignore knock up to 40mph. I amn ot concerned because true knock is less damaging in 1st gear and for me (you also) 40mph is only about 1-sec. Do not rely on your ears to detect knock! It is possible that the knock in 1st and the knock in 3rd are not related and the concern should be the knock in 3rd being a lean condition or too much timing, but 22* total is not high unless you are running low-octane with pump gas or old race gas. Look for anything that could be touching and if you suspect the turbos, only way to know is to pull them off and remove the housings to look for scratches inside.

Dan, your post hit the nail on the head and I agree with everything you said and want to add that tire diameter also plays a big role in contact patch. For the hybridZs out who have problems launching their car, you need to understand 2 things: 1. Street tires are not going to cut it Even the best 295 ZR street radial cannot and will never hold a candle to a lowly 235 DR with a little heat in it. Just ask RickB. You have major $$$ tied up in that beast, spend an extra $250-300 and get some DRs and I guarantee you will improve your ET by at least .5. If you want to drive them on the street, get the Nittos. People spend thousand$ to gain 1-sec in their ET. 2. Suspension - You have to get proper weight transfer and stop the rear suspension from unloading too quickly. "Sports car" suspension setups are a compromise at best on the drag strip. If you want both, spend the buck$ for Illuminas and have the best of both worlds. No one said it was cheap