80LS1T

Half is better than none at all! Guy

Well I havent been to the track yet with my car but this summe I will be going down to the 1/4 mile for sure! Anyways, I dont konw much about what I need as far as safety stuff.....I should be in low 12's. Now about a clutch depression switch...do I need one? or can I use a brake switch to stop the car from starting when in gear? I have a manual tranny... I already have the brake switch from when my car had the auto in it so that would be easier but if Im going to have to put a clutch switch in then I will. What about roll bar stuff? I have a 4 point....I was to broke at the time to get a 6 or 8 point Oh and driveshaft loop? I am going to get one aways just to be safe but is it required? I think thats all for now.....anything else I should be aware of? Thanks! Guy

You would have to get a 95' harness, MAF, possibley a 95' intake(fuel rail set up is different) & distributor (connector is different on disributor), and you might have to get a few different sensors(I know that the IAC sensor is not the same for a 93' as the 96', so the 95' sensor might not be the same as the 93'). Do what the others guys said....just get the 95. It will be cheaper in the end Guy

I think the biggest problem with your cooling system is the fact that you dont have a fan shroud. You would be surprized at what a difference that will make. At highway speeds its not such a big deal due to the "ram air" effect but at city speeds you dont have that. Before you go speding big money on a bunch of parts you dont need get a fan shroud and see if that helps. Guy

Umm Im not sure but I think they are 7/16"? I still have the box for them so I can go look. I got them at Fleet Farm in the automotive section. They have green, blue, and red ones. I went with blue to match my car! 8) Guy

How hot are you running? My engine runs right at 180* while cruising and about 200* while in stop an go traffic? I am using a griffen 26"x19" alluminum radiator, taurus 1 speed fan, and a CSI electric water pump. The fan is controlled by a temperatured controller relay and turns on at about 170*. I cold actually make it run cooler if I wanted but where its set right now is good. What kind of cooling system set up do you have? Guy

Do what the other guys said and be sure you get the correct tool for installing it! If you beat it on with hammer and wood block you will reck your thrust bearing for the crank! Dont take a short cut on this one.(not saying that you would but I have seen to many guys beat the balancer on) Guy

Sorry to hear about that. I dont know what I would do if something like that happen so close to home. I dont really have to worry too much though. I live in the middle of the woods on a 25 acre plot! Only one way in, 1/4 mile driveway through the woods. And if someone comes up the dirve way we know about it! Most people are too chicken to walk through the woods when its dark so all we have to worry about is someone coming up in the day time. Then they will have to deal with me and my 12 gauge shot gun! I have been hunting since I was 12 and I shoot competitivly with my shot gun so they arent safe with in 50 yards of me! LOL I hope it never comes down to somthing like that though! Well I hope things get better and that they catch the person who did this! Too bad there isnt a way to tell at birth who is going to be a useful human being and who is going to be a waste of skin! We could just elimnate them right away! Guy

What I have right now... *1980 280ZX with LT1/T56 *1996 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 145,xxx miles on it and it runs like new! *2003 Honda Forman 450ES 4wheeler! What I've had... *1986 Ford Bronco II 2.8L 4X4 *1989 Ford Crown Vic LTD 5.0L V8- what a boat! Sold this to a friend who beat the hell out of it and it still runs! It just wont die! God knows we've tried to kill it! LOL *1995 Ski-Doo Mach 1- sold this to buy parts for the 280ZX What I want.... *Honda CBR600 F3 or F4-going to buy one next spring! *Ski-Doo Mach Z 800 *and last but not least....a 240Z with LS1/T56! or a 5.7 HEMI swap! Guy

What size combustion chambers do you have? 10.5:1 is pretty high for a street engine(with out reverse cooling) Your heads are alluminum right? If so you may be ok but you'll have to run the "good stuff"(92/93 octane) for sure. Also will that compression match your cam? Guy

Are you talking about a short block or just a block? It sounds like you are talking about a short block(no heads, intake, oil pan). If so find out what kind of crank it has, rods, pistons(brand name?). This will help a lot if you want a better answer to you question. $600 for a 350 short block isnt too bad but it all depends on what kind of parts are in there? Guy

Well I just put my dash back in after installing a new fuel level gauge and A/F ratio gauge. I also installed a check engine light and some blue LED turn signal indicator lights! They are a little on the bright side but thats ok! 8) Guy

Well I work at a Dodge dealer as a Auto Tech. Since I work on the Dodge trucks all day long, I get to see the 5.7 HEMI every day. I have been thinking about my next swap and I think the 5.7 HEMI is a good possiblity. From what I have seen they are very good engines. We havent had any problems with them at all so far... I had to go to some chrysler training the past 2 days and they had a 5.7 HEMI on an engine stand. From what I can tell it looks like it would fit. It doesnt look like it is too much wider than a SBC. Its hard to say since I didnt have a tape measure though? I wont be doing another swap for about 2 years so I guess I will have to see how the prices of those engines are then but I deffintely think its a good possibilty for me. The best part is I can get new parts for it really cheap! Guy

Hey sorry I didnt answer your post! I didnt get the email that you answered me back? As for the shifter... I have a manual tranny so this wasnt something I had to deal with...off hand I cant think of anyone with a ZX that has a manual tranny? Im sure there is but I just cant think of anyone? Something that works in the Z will probably be pretty close for the ZX. How far a long are you now? I will be painting my soon! Just waiting for the salt to get off the roads so that I can take it over and get the body kit put on then its off to the paint booth! Guy

There's no cam button on an LT1 is there? I dont recall seeing one when I rebuilt my engine? It did have a plate with 2 bolts that held the front of the cam from coming out of the block? Would that be the same purpose as a cam button? Guy

Here's a product that from what I understand(Greimann told me) is the same as Dynomatt but costs way less? http://www.mcmaster.com Part #9709T19 Catalog Page #3270 Now this stuff is waaaaaaaaaay cheaper than "Dynomat!" Guy

What is the difference between a "full roller" and a "roller tip" rocker arm? Got pics? Guy Never mind I looked at the links posted in the first post! I can see what the difference is now!

Well I finished up most of the "engine bay clean-up project" tonight. I still have to connect my heater hoses and P/S hoses and make a mount for the computer but thats all that is planned for now. I have spent about 25-30 hours rerouting wires and covering them up again to get the engine bay this nice. The pics dont do the justice in my opinion! Here's a before pic.... Here's the after pics.... I can't wait till I can wash all that dust off the car! Guy 8)

If the seach function was working you could find some info on this but not too much. I know someone has done the 4.3L swap. I cant remeber if I saw it on here or on ebay though? It was an extremly clean swap and it set the engine back pretty far which is good for weight distribution. I also agree that the 4.3L with a supercharger would a hell of a swap! I even thought about it myself! Guy

If you want a 4 bolt main, splayed main caps are way better than any factory 4 bolt main. The factory 2 bolt main is almost as good as the factory 4 bolt main. If your building for serious power, say 500HP+ then you would want splayed main caps anyways. In which case you would need a factory 2 bolt block to turn in to a 4 bolt splayed main caps. If it came out of a camaro, firebird, formula, TA, roadmaster, or impalla SS it will be a 2 bolt.....if it came out of a corvette it will be a 4 bolt. The powdered metal rods are advertised as good to 450HP. Which probably means they are good to atleast 500HP(probably under rated to be safe). Making a GEN 1 block accept the GEN 2 LT1 heads an intake is waaaaaaaaay more work and money than its worth. You will not come out ahead if you do this to the old block. You will have to modify the block, the intake, get some kind of distributor set up? and god only knows what else to make the conversion work! Just buy a good set of aftermarket heads and be done with it. If you build your engine now for no blower, say 10.5:1 compression(stock) then you wont be able to run boost later due to the high compression. So now would be the best time to choose what you want. Unless you have the money to build 2 bottom ends? Say 8:1 to 8.5:1 compression for a blower motor and say 10.5:1 to 11:1 for an NA motor. You sure cant run much if any boost on 11:1 compression! Not with pump gas! Guy

Just pop the hood and pull the distributor wire off! There are battery disconnect switches avaliable that has a key that you can pull out that disconnects the batter(summit/jegs). Guy

Ok I will answer your questions but I think you need to do a simple search on the http://WWW......... All these questions can easily be answered with a search on any good search engine(accept ours since is down, otherwise ours would do the job too!) Yes it is a push rod engine... The easiest way to 400HP is the "LT4 Hotcam Kit" This will get you close but with out some head work you probably will come up shy of 400HP. Yeah you can buy after market heads for it, they are expensive though. Most cost right around $2000 and go up from there. The LT1/LT4 intakes are pretty much as good as they get from the factory. Not too much work can be done to them. The LT1 intake has a little room for improvement but not really worth the $$$. Oh and dont bother with the LT4 heads and intake packages, they are waaaaaaaaaaay over priced. Get some better heads and have the intake port matched to the heads. Guy

fl327, you dont mean 275cfm do you? Average cfm on intake is side is about 175(from .100"-.700") and exhaust is 135(from .100"-.700") Here are my flow number before and after some porting...... My heads are like between a "stage 1" and "stage 2" porting. Now my intake ports are 202CFM average and the exhaust are 159cfm average(both from .100"-.700") Guy

I agree with everything stated above. There really has been a lot of newbies asking some "old" question but you have to remember our search function is down Now about the whole budget thing.... yeah I didnt have a budget. I saw darius's car and said "i have to make my car like that!" Now I didnt go blower because I didnt think 600+HP in a 3000# car was useful. So I just went with the LT1/T56. I have over $15,000 into my swap and the $$$ is still flowing out of my pocket and into parts! I dont really care how much I spend just as long as my car gets done and done the right way. Now I made a lot of mistakes along the way.....cut corners, bought wrong parts, made wrong parts, etc.....I am fixing everyting that I didtnt do right the first time though, yeah its costing me more $$$ but I would rather have an extremely nice car than an OK car! I want to show my car and having loose wires and crappy paint and wheels isnt an option so extra $$$ % time must be spent to ensure that everything is done right and with the right parts! Anyone who said they did the swap for $3000 is either lying or they have a pile of dung! I totally agree with the "you can have it good, cheap, or fast in any combination, but not all of them! "

Here are the pics of the MSA mounts... All they do is mount to the original Datsun 2 bolt rubber mounts that bolt to the tower mounts. There is a slight angle on the passenger side mount. I wish I would have taken som measuerments for all you guys that need them. Those MSA mounts cost waaaaaaaaay to much for what you get! I have to replace my oil pan gasket soon so maybe I will take the mounts out and take some measuremets for everyone who needs them, since I have to raise the engine to get the oil pan out! I will post some measurements as soon as I do the oil pan gasket.(should be with in a month/month and a half.... Guy