getoffmyinternet

"You get what you pay for" only goes so far. Their mounts aren't made out of gold are they? A novice welder can make his own mounts, mckinney charges way too much for how simple they are. IIRC there's a guy on here that sells billet aluminum mounts for less than half the price.

Sounds super easy! We could go on all day about the reliability of european cars, but at the end of the day it's just about personal preference. That said, I fly in a twin engine mercedes, so if you want to talk about trusting a continent...

No, it's not just a bracket that you bolt down, it's like a gate latch, also known as a window bolt. However it is spring loaded in the shut position. The top of the louvers are on hinges so you can easily lift them up to clean the window.

There's nothing fancy about it, perhaps even a hardware store? It's just a small latch like on a typical backyard fence.

In terms of bonded in flares, the price of the pieces is usually a drop in the bucket compared to the actual installation. That's why most people including me settle for bolt on flares for the time being.

Most random car gallery ever.

Well that's scary.

I think I might get one. http://www.etsy.com/...-scale-model-in Maybe get a before and after version?

Indeed.

$1200 is cheap relative to the fact that the euro z lights can cost $1000 (sure is a lot of money to add a yellow) Those look pretty nice, is there a reason you reversed positions though?

As far as ugly mustangs go, that one is pretty clean.

Dang, the fitment is uncanny!

Lookin' good methinks. If I was pressed to nit-pick, I'd say the turn signals moved closer to the bottom corners of the grille? There's another car that I'm reminded of, but not enough to know which. Maybe it was a 3000gt on steroids or one of the Z concepts.

http://www.rolston.me/NewSite/Z-Blog/Entries/2009/9/2_Underside.html

Okay so what aren't you getting? Everybody's been saying two pipes will work fine, the only difference between a cutout and a lake pipe is where you are closing off the straight path, in the middle or at the end. Unless you have two opposing cutouts the muffled route will always be flowing to some degree in either situation.

Indeed if I'm understanding what you mean by "lake pipe", it would be infinitely dare-I-say better than an electronic cutout. How much money do you want to spend on a cutout that is made to last, and even then how long does the best cutout last anyway. It seems like an electronic actuator and a small furnace don't mix well in any scenario. All this of course is contingent on whether you want it to be opened or closed at the flip of a switch... Edit: I believe Tony means exactly side exhaust when he says lake pipe. All you have to do is cap the outlets when you don't want the noise and the exhaust will be forced through the alternate route with a muffler.

I don't see any other version of a cutout that isn't what you described. That's what they're for in the first place, you literally just put a cutout before the muffler to bypass it. Go crazy!

If they are grounded to the chassis, you need to connect the chassis to the negative terminal of the battery.

If there are two wires coming out of a light, then they both just go to the battery. If there is only one wire, then the light is grounded to the chassis and you'll need to connect it or the chassis to the negative terminal of the battery. Unless of course it's a dual intensity light, in which case there will be 2 hot wires and one ground wire or chassis ground. Either way it would probably be safer just to ring out the wires with a meter. The only way to really test all the wiring though is when it's in its final state, so battery actually in the car and all the wiring grounds hooked up where they're suppose to go.

I hate to steal your title Leon, but if he has an impact he probably has a source of compressed air.

You'd need Thor's impact got get it to spin at anything more than a crawl.... Just do a differential pressure test.