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Disengage the clutch when you let off the throttle.

That's the biggest factor here. You can easily kill a $500 battery by trying to charge it at 25A, and you can save a $100 battery by doing a reconditioning charge. I have one of these and it's paid for itself several times over. http://www.batteryminders.com/batterycharger/catalog/BatteryMINDer-12-Volt-2-4-or-8-Amp-Charger-Maintainer-Desulf-p-16133.html

Oh, collapsible spare. That explains it! What wheel well? You mean woofer well? Yeah I suppose a tire might fit in there if you remove the amp too.

How did you keep shorting it? I lit up a drill bit like a roman candle once when I failed to realize the butt of the drill was resting on the positive terminal. And that was on the cheesy autozone no-name battery that the car came with, and I kept it for three more years. It finally failed me after I left my car out in the rain for about a week. Sounds like a good way to kill a starter though. 17Ah sounds decent to me, what kind of sound system you running? I wish more batteries listed the Ah rating. Odyssey is supposed to be good. At least good enough for aircraft... For an extra $50 or so you could get the full sized 28Ah model though.

Is it ten times more expensive? Wow, kudos on being able to sell a used battery. I've had pretty good luck with cheap batteries so long as I don't leave the lights on overnight or something.

Wow I'm not even mad that's just amazing!

The air coming from the vents is directed either from ambient outside air, a/c, or the heater. If you set it to heater and the air coming out is ambient temp then either the ducting isn't coming from the right place or the control that is switching ducts isn't working properly. Check the bowden cables that go to the controls, often times they slip off and actuating the controls doesn't properly open the channels.

Well, that tranny is toast.

A/C and heater are two separate systems. Have you never had a car that didn't have A/C? The heater and defroster are same system. If one is hot but the other isn't, then you have a ducting or control issue. The heater and the fresh air vent are two separate systems. Air coming out the vent does not mean it is coming from the heater. The heater is not always on.

Did you take it apart and mod it before first use?

I'm sure that happened because the shaft kept bottoming out and it had nowhere to go. It doesn't matter if they are very tight because once you install the cv it will be locked in. I accidentally popped mine off a couple times during install because the shaft bottomed out and ejected it.

Good luck finding a junkyard dash that isn't also cracked really bad... Caps look pretty ugly in my opinion. It would be a hundred times better to get the whole thing covered by an upholstery shop, suede with a baseball stitch looks pretty rad. People use foam with mixed results. I think it depends on how bad the foam underneath the cracks really is. You need to take out as much of the old stuff as you possibly can while still having enough of the original shape to work with. Cut all the way through where the center of the crack is, and then bevel it out like a madman, the new patch should feather out quite a ways to ensure that the load is distributed evenly and whatever caused it to crack in the first place won't just crack it again. Don't spend too much time trying to get it looking perfect the first time around because I bet that a few new cracks will form in different places once you patch the main ones and you'll have to patch those as well. Then hopefully it will all be settled in for another 10 years or so. Or just buy a fiberglass dash. Or just take a sheet of aluminum and bend it at a 90 degree angle. It all depends on how much effort you're willing to put into keeping the car original.

Looks like the top hat can expand and contract independently of whatever spring is under it so it's almost like threading the perch up and down on adjustable height coilovers on the fly. I would suspect you set the ride as low as you want it for normal driving, since the target audience is for lowriders with speedbump woes, and then pneumatically expand the top hat temporarily to clear something, then lower it back to the bottom so that the system is unloaded most of the time. There's nothing wrong with riding on air all the time as long as it's built strong enough for that, however it would dampen the springs some, plus you'd hate to have the pump running constantly it there's a tiny leak down. Even if it's a pneumatically operated hydraulic ram with a lockout, there will still inevitably be some leak down, but at least it wouldn't be compressible like a purely pneumatic ram would.

Yeah that was more like the fan type, just showing off the function. Or possibly part of a new dub step music video. Showed zero of the supposedly dramatically unconventional components of the system. Also, how does changing the ride height not affect the handling whatsoever? I'm more of a set it and forget it kinda guy...

Wouldn't a pretzel be better than a noodle? 150hp might be a little conservative. I guarantee there are a lot of people here that throw in ludicrous speed engines without doing crap to the chassis. I'd wish to think I'm one of them... Although I trust the chassis wont fast-and-the-furious on you, performance probably takes a big hit. I bet most people start stiffening for the performance first rather than necessity. Even with my little scooter I think it's time to start investing in at least strut braces and of course a better diff mount because I get wheel hop and apparently diff hop like crazy. Still not getting any of this traction you speak of though.

42.

That sure isn't cheap though. Still, even as a z owner, I'd rather have one of these. Perhaps it's just how I was raised. http://www.thinkgeek.com/geektoys/rc/e920/

RB26 = (RB25 + 1)^2

I'm not sure if anyone's done the 6" dual exhaust yet.

I would KILL for a cookie sheet to cover that hole! Good luck man, looks like you got your work cut out for you, cookie cut? But for only $500 I suppose it's hard to complain.

I've always just gone from the 2000 straight to the polishing compound. But yeah probably wasting time starting with 2000. Whenever I try to start with a finer grit to cut corners I find I'm taxing myself by it just taking way longer. You shouldn't have to go over it much with one grit before stepping up, if it doesn't seem to be working then you're starting to high and need to step it down. I'll usually just use 1200 very briefly first to get it all even, and then go to 2000 just to reduce the haze from the 1200 before polishing.

* cross sand at 90 degree angles. Sand straight up and down, then straight left and right. You could try rubbing compound first if it's just the clear coat and probably not that deep. Then polishing compound and you're done.

I did find that one, but the main think I wanted was the spline counts etc. that the other one had so you know which are interchangeable and whatnot.

Sounds like the ecu is cutting fuel to limit the rev based on what it thinks your speed is, as it's programmed to do. Either there is a wiring issue for the speed sensor going into the ecu or it's an internal problem. The ecu doesn't need the speed input to run anyway so just clip that wire on the ecu plug itself to rule out the chassis wiring. I doubt nistune does any calculations for speed since it just relies on the vss input, there's no way for it to know what gear you're in and like I said the car's speed doesn't affect engine trim.