getoffmyinternet

Seems legit. You didn't know it was a three cylinder? Also these throttle bodies have the unique feature of being where the fuel gets mixed in, so you know they're good. Don't get me wrong, I like the way these look, but I don't see the market for it at that price, because if you've got that kind of money you'd get something with a few more bells and whistles. I think I'd take one of these though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-Detomaso-Pantera-/290675886270?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item43ada208be

$33,000

I wasn't saying it was a good idea in and of itself. Yep, take out even more material and call it a day, so long as it looks shiny you're fine... I was just pointing out that your notion about being smarter than everyone was ill-conceived. Obviously line boring may be part of the solution but not all of it. Any other silly hypotheticals we want to entertain?

Yet another reason I should make the switch. My especially nerdy friends already tell me it's the fastest.

Does this work? http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Flist1.auctions.yahoo.co.jp%2F

I'm on the stock suspension right now, so I don't know. I have a coilover kit but not the time to install it yet. I'm happy with the height though because before it was impossible to go over speed bumps and now it glides right over. I might lower it a little though depending on how stiff the new springs are. I'll take a picture of the whole car, blow it up, and you can just load it on your tv and stand across the room to look at it

That's understandable. I forgot it's not always springtime in some dark corners of the world. Actually it's sprinkling today and the whole state basically shut down Suffice it to say all Zs had long nose diffs. Therein lies the problem, if you had a short nose diff we wouldn't even be having this thread right now, they're a dime a dozen, which is why many people spend the time and money converting their setup. People I know refer to the case as the pumpkin, at least for solid axle diffs, because the center of the housing is rather spherical. I still hate the term either way.

That's the great thing about composites, it's never too late to go back.

:'( That is now an excellent parts car.

Oh no! I could have told you not to bondo the whole thing, I thought you were just going to do the glass? I've been there, you think the bondo will go on smooth and if all else fails all you have to do is sand it to perfection, nope. The problem with bondo is it's not the easiest thing to sand and even harder to feather (especially if it borders something softer because as you sand where the edges around the bondo become valleys) because it just humps in the middle (the edges sand away faster). Bondo never goes on perfectly smooth or to the shape you want with a sweep, the key is you have to intentionally apply too much and sand it to down shape. Besides, if you swept it in perfectly, it would still be low once it cured because it shrinks a little. If you absolutely had to bondo the whole thing, the only way to get it nice in the end is to do just that, the ENTIRE thing. A thick coat with none of the underlying material exposed. Then you sand it to shape without going all the way through it, but again this will take forever because it's to complex to power sand, and you'll go through quite a bit of sandpaper as it clogs. You can wet sand it to make it a little easier, but it does absorb moisture a bit so you have to make sure it dries out for quite a while before you paint it. In the state it's in now, you have a lot of pits to fill before you finish it, and there's still the football texture where the plastic is uncovered. Fill the major low spots, fine grit power sand what you can get to (don't over do it), finish the corners and contours by hand--don't try to get it perfect or you'll sand too far! Paint several more coats and resand. It will still need some touching up but sanding the paint is easier than sanding the bondo, so keep painting and sanding until the little uneven areas are blended out. Normally you glass over the top of the bondo, not the other way around, because the condition of the bondo matters very little--you'd have to sand the glass either way. In fact I'd remove most of what you have there because like you said it's just adding a bunch of weight and making the dash gratuitously thicker.. A thick layer of glass is a better starting point though than a bunch of uneven bondo because the resin should have flowed out some to make it somewhat uniform. Once the glass is fairly smooth you do the same painting and sanding as you would over bondo, but hopefully it won't take as much paint because the glass shouldn't have as many pits etc. and won't absorb the paint (The glass shouldn't be uneven enough to warrant the use of bondo at all.) If there are some really low spots, I'd sooner just add another little patch of glass because it's easier to feather the same material into itself rather than something hard over something soft. By the time you paint and sand enough coats to get rid of the football pattern, the glass portion should be in pretty good shape. If the sandpaper clogs too easily from the glass or the bondo, just wait a week and it will go 100 times quicker. Even a hot patch that should be cured in ten minutes, I usually leave alone for several days just because I don't want to battle with that nonsense. Even though pure resin is harder than bondo it still feels easier to sand because the paper doesn't clog as much, (although it dulls a little quicker). If it makes you feel any better, I've been getting my ass kicked by a big mold for months now because I just keep finding a million more ways that don't work. Don't give up! If you have any other ideas just ask because I might be able to warn you first if they don't work, believe me I'm FULL of ideas that didn't work.

Sure you're aware of google, but you're not using it. The difference between a short nose and a long nose is obvious when you see one picture of both.

In retrospect I bet that much of the recracking problems are really because great stuff is so unstable. I found that out the hard way when I was using it to make a bunch of molds because it's so easy to use. Come back a week later and a parting line is now a 1/4" gap. Even though it's supposedly cured in 24 hours, I'd wait a month before I did anything to it because it keeps expanding slightly. That and I think it doesn't work well with temperature extremes. Often times I'd leave it overnight and the next day the paint would be cracked all over the place. I suppose the original foam could expand and contract similarly, which is why using hard bondo to fill gaps doesn't work out so well. You'll be glad you spend the extra time covering it with glass. There, I brought the conversation full circle

Mine are 245/315. Unfortunately the rotas don't go above 9.5 so the tire is a little too wide but I dream of getting them widened when I can afford to have the car out of service for a bit. 245 fits perfectly though. They both actually have a little room to go outwards more if you want them to be flush, but they're about even so I'm happy with it. I don't want to toot my own horn or anything but perhaps this is worth a look

Oh right I forgot you said that. Can't tell if it's long or short, that's a bad sign... http://bit.ly/yv1IPb Oh and I forgot half shalfts is another one ugh.

$400+ for just the gears is outrageous. In the nismo catalog I didn't see anything besides 3.7? When I was looking for gears I saw that guy on ebay and asked him if they work for the z31 r200 and he said no, not sure why though I didn't really research further. Actually looking at those, I assume they're all for a short nose R200. You might be in luck though if you want to go from 3.7 to 3.9 because it seems like you'd only need to swap the ring, since the pinion on both versions is still 10 teeth. I've never heard of a driveshaft being called an arm, but I think that would throw me through a loop too. We already have enough trouble with stub axles/stub shafts around here

Benjamin mentioned having the shop do exactly that, although he mistakenly called it align bore but I got it. Bluestag also chimed in on that as well, so by ANY, yes. I'd probably be doing an oil change real soon after installing and running it, perhaps it's just paranoia...

None of them seem to fit real well to me. It's like they're all made to be universal even though they're advertized for the one car specifically. You end up having to warp them into the contour of the car, and use a rubber bead to fill the uneven seam.

I'd rather have a car that wasn't rusted and beat to hell. Although, I'm hearing more and more about this chumpcar thing and it's got a good ring to it. To answer your question, if the sole purpose of the project was for it to take ten years, then yes. For any other reason whatsoever, no. It would certainly not be cheaper to restore this than to start with something already in decent shape.

I'm just wondering if the reason it didn't fit is because it sagged just sitting there like you say, or if it's because the cloth warped it.

Carrier, center, differential, whatever. I wish I could slap everyone that calls the housing a pumpkin, but that's just me. Obviously we're talking about the actual differential here, but I thought it would be confusing since he seemed to be talking about it as a whole including the housing.

http://craig.backfir...utos/horsepower particularly this, but the whole thing is a good read.

Lol, that's gonna piss him off. Dude didn't ask how to swap the centers...

Did you use csm or cloth?

A guy can dream