getoffmyinternet

Put a pinpoint on benched the master. Perhaps get a buddy who's keen on doing it, you should only have to do it once for it to be perfect.

I have the same problem with the linkage being too short on my master. This would give you trouble shifting but it should not make the motion of the pedal feel weak, and the slave should still move (it just wouldn't be moving far enough). The before and after look almost identical, no pressure plate would be sensitive enough for that. If there was a fluid leak the pedal pressure would continue to weaken as you held it down (it would probably be a good enough leak to see though). If one of the cylinders is shot, you should get a little more initial action if you push the pedal down faster, and again it would weaken as you held it down. Otherwise there is probably a good amount of air in the system, in which case If you pump the pedal a bunch of times quickly you should get a little more action on the slave as well. It's not easy getting all the air out of the master itself, the best way is to bench bleed before installing it. I pumped mine rapidly about a hundred times to be sure. The slave is simpler and less likely to be a problem. If you're certain there is no air in the system, the slave isn't leaking, and the master can't be bled any further, then perhaps a larger bore is in order. A longer rod would help a little but probably not enough for how little movement you're getting.

Dialup still exists??

Yet another time where I'm kicking myself for misplacing that backing-out-of-the-room emoticon...

In that case I doubt you have 20" tires...

They never are. People ask me how much mine is worth and my first response is always, "You mean to me or the rest of the world?" MPH = (Engine Speed in RPM) / (Total Gear Ratio) X (Wheel Circumference in Inches) / 1056 Your tires must be about 23.63" tall for that to make sense. Sounds pretty reasonable to me.

Wouldn't it be easier to just make custom mounts to fit the 2.5 in the original z bay? I can't imagine it wouldn't fit. In fact, a custom tube front end even sounds easier than welding half of one car to another.

Uh oh, I sense a can of worms opening.

Nobody knows where to buy.....

You'd have to be the hulk to damage the gear. I haven't taken one apart, but it shouldn't be that hard. I might try hitting it on once or twice to jar it loose. Perhaps the circlip is in a crazy bind. If you get a pipe a little larger than the shaft, you can put slide the pipe over the shaft, lock it down, and yank on the shaft itself to pop the end off. An even force on the gear should make it come off easier than hitting it off center.

They normally turn kind of golden brown when they get old from the oil. I imagine somebody used an additive that caused it to turn yellow, I don't think there's any copper or bronze etc. in there.

I just want to say it took a very long time to read that. Also, terms like "godly boost" don't really help here. I don't know if an rb would be cheaper at that point, but my gut feeling is that it would at least be more reliable. The parts for an L31 would be cheaper, so while it probably wouldn't take as much cash to reach that goal, the motor would have to be stretched pretty much to its very limit, whereas an rb26 and rb30 have taken that kind of heat (and much more) with ease.

No. Get the details. If the work was done properly at all there should at least be some documentation on which parts were used. You can calculate the proper head gasket thickness etc. but you need to know what you're starting with, no guessing on any of it. I wouldn't use the cylinder pressures to guestimate compression either, it should be the other way around. You calculate your compression and use that to get a target pressure. The actual pressure will always be less than the theoretical compression, how much less depends on the quality of the tune and how worn out the engine. Take measurements and calculate your compression before even thinking about what to do next.

Shaving pistons just sounds like a very bad idea. You could probably find alternate pistons that would work better (variations in distance to the center of the pin without sacrificing strength). Perhaps it's a bad head combo? The head could probably be reworked a little but I don't know how much you could take out to make a significant difference in the chamber size. Head gaskets of varying thicknesses are available, as well as varying rod lengths, which would probably make the greatest difference.

Doesn't seem like the block would make much difference (piston shape though obviously). One head could be more likely to detonate than the other simply because of the chamber size. I don't see the Z cars requiring higher octane though either way...

detonate with poor fuel and tuning

Can't really move the wheels fore and aft. The front looks a little high, but it depends as much on the size of the tires as it does on the fenders. Is the lip on the fender at the same height as the original? If you move them down I don't think the edges would line up right with the contour of the car without stretching the fenders to width. Any coilover kit will allow you to adjust the ride height. You could always swap in a heavier engine Still, if you lower the car, the wheels aren't going to get any closer to the sides... It might look funny having them almost rubbing the top but then a three inch gap front and back. Ideally, the tire should follow the curve of the fender like it is now, if you want to close the gap, get a tire with a little more sidewall. If you want them to match the rears, get a larger rim instead. Would be kinda strange to have a larger front rim though.

Ignitor? Yeah getting the mafs is good, they aren't the easiest to find. If you're getting a jdetro or something it won't matter though... Mine was missing the mafs now that I think of it. That said, I did sell the awd oil pan, a/c compressor, and power steering pump for $100 each. Either way, the installation cost outweighs the purchase price. It doesn't seem like it would, even in hindsight, but all the little things add up. I kept every receipt and somehow it nickel and dimed it's way to about $4500.

Have you read this? If you're interested, I have a spare set of the discs Savage42 makes.

3K is definitely a good price. When I was looking for one everyone told me it would cost more like 5K but I was willing to wait around long enough for a deal to surface and actually got the RB26 + RWD tranny for 3K. I'm surprised you can get one that cheap from a dealer in TX. I'm not sure how easy the RWDs are to come by on their own, but the local nissan dealer told me they could still import a brand new one for $1500, I imagine they're fairly plentiful then. If mine didn't come with the tranny though, I'd have my eye on a TH400 conversion, although you'd be looking at more like $2500...

Speaking of overpriced... But seriously, once upon a time they quoted me almost $20k for a bare shell iirc. I don't even want to know what they charge to restore one. I bet parts for a pantera are easier to get than this skyline though. Plus, 351