getoffmyinternet

Indeed. I unfortunately kept all my receipts and was dumb enough to add them up at the end. But would I have really been happier with a new corvette? Well, maybe.

I've probably watched that video at least 20 times. Can't wait to see some new stuff with the 6 speed. How much did that thing run you if you don't mind?

HA! It looks exactly like one if you've never seen one before!

The world is better off. Strange I never heard about this though, so many bros have that decal already, I'm surprised they didn't add the in loving memory part.

They sell them individually if you just need the one size. I'm sure there's a knockoff out there too If you're going to make your own a tubing cutter would be a better start.

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=AP145

I was thinking they just trimmed off too much, one side even had a little corner left over that I had to remove. I think I tried both sides and this seemed to line up with the original contour better so if anything they probably aren't clocked right, but it was kind of a guess because the fronts were mislabeled anyway (that was pretty obvious). Here's a closeup, what do you guys think?

Disc Brake Upgrade / Wheel Upgrade Brake kit: $1260 Rims: $825 Tires: $780 Flares: $400 It all started with a little squealing in the brakes. First the back, which I fixed, then the front. I got the rotors turned and a year later it came back more powerful than ever. New pads work for about a week, and so does the brake quite stuff. Finally I sprung for a whole disc brake package. I decided to save a few bucks and get the silvermine motors kit as opposed to the azc one. In retrospect I wish I had just paid more for the far superior kit (as I guessed I would anyway). Part of what sold me on the silvermine kit is that it has a mechanical parking brake function, but installing it was not as easy as it should have been and I'm still having trouble with the cable rubbing etc., just not as well put together all around IMO. The fronts went on fairly easily, I just had to put in a 1/4" spacer because the caliper hit my zx rims. On both the fronts and rears the brake line was made a little on the long side. The rears however needed some work. The instructions that came with it didn't make a whole lot of sense despite being very wordy (one picture probably could have done wonders). There seemed to be no way that the parking cable would reach the caliper as-is, nor was there a way to even mount it on, so I ended up cutting off the old bracket and welding it to the new one which I hacked away most of. I also had to grind off some of the new bracket because it hit the MM companion flanges. Then I realized like an idiot that my zx rims wouldn't fit because they taper on the inside and the rear rotors are much larger. So it was the perfect excuse to upgrade the wheels too. I already had the BAMF zg flares from Z Force collecting dust. So I ordered the Rota RB 17x9.5 package from Kim for a pretty darn good price, and got them mounted with Nitto 555s: 245x45s and 315x30s. Cutting the front fenders was pretty easy, cutting the rear double wall was a bit more challenging. So far I have the gap filled with Great Stuff and am going to get a piece of steel rolled to be welded in. Once the flares were rivited on with some vw style bead to fill the little gaps (they aren't exactly a perfect fit and not quite symmetrical either but you can hardly tell), the wheels went on perfectly. I didn't need any spacers and there isn't any interference with steering. They also fill out the flares pretty nicely and evenly if I do say so myself. Now all I have to do is update the suspension because even though there's plenty of clearance (at least in the rear) they still bottom out. I'll be ordering the TTT coilover kit and illuminas to solve that problem.

Hatch Louvers R200 Door Panels Tail Lights Autometer Gauges

I'd like to think I could handle it since I learned to drive with a stick and haven't owned an automatic since. I was just worried it would be a nuisance. I suppose in traffic, having a clutch that requires an extra helping of pressure would be, but that's the price we pay.

I don't think I've ever +1'ed before, but when I just tried it said I already met my max for the day :/

Yeah I'm definitely saving that gif for later. Sometimes I wish I could post to a topic that went to the shed. Perhaps I would ask what an about-to-break rear end feels like. I can't come up with an answer for that one though, I don't think anybody on here has ever attempted to replace the 180 before.

Yeah I didn't consider the fact that the lightened wheel will still have to use the old bulky pressure plate... So in terms of lowest (reasonable) *total* weight, a lightened wheel will still be too heavy/possibly unsafe, but a completely modular unit that weighs even less than the original wheel altogether is overkill for street use because it would just be too sensitive to be fun. In the middle ground, going one direction and getting a light multi-plate clutch would offset the weight of a heavier wheel, but isn't really worth the hassle/money, sooo, the ideal option is to get a super light billet wheel to offset the heavy standard clutch because it will be about the same as the former's total weight plus sustainability. Is that the gist of it?

In that case, which would you recommend for something that scant, between a three piece custom unit or a seriously lightened original?

So apparently car dealerships are a good place for criminals to go shopping after all? I suppose it makes sense. Someone who works at the dealer would have the motive and the opportunity, but you'll never find the bastard. That's the part that gets me the most.

Those are definitely important factors. While the technology is getting more advanced, so is the demand for luxury and safety. The new prius is almost double the curb weight of a metro, and is packed with luxury options, which are the opposite of the things you should expect from an economy car. Most people don't want an economy car badly enough I guess, and now days it seems that economy means it will get decent mileage, but not be low in price. Back then they were one in the same, because the reason they got such good mileage is because the manufacturer skimped on everything. The LSi metro was economy enough, but they took it a step further with the XFI and got results. In fact you couldn't even get a/c in an XFi. Now what car on the market today is even available without that? I feel like there is still a market for true economy cars, partly because there are so few of them out there and partly because we all know that gas is like real estate and it's only going to get worse. Fiscally, it doesn't make sense to pay so much more for a car that gets say 15 mpg better than the alternative when it's going to take 20 years for your investment to pay off in the savings at the pump. That's why the best idea for a money saver car is one that has the highest mpg/value ratio like if one car got a little bit higher mileage but cost way less or another cost more but never needed maintenance, you get the idea. So when my parents were in the market for a new car, they got an echo. It was one of the cheapest on the market, got 35+ mpg, and they haven't had to do an ounce of maintenance in the nine years they've owned it (over probably almost 150k miles). I'd say that car definitely paid for itself. You could probably get a used car and do even better though, since new cars are marked up a lot more. That's why I figured geo metro because they're really cheap and get the best mileage. I'm sure there are enough of them out there that parts aren't too expensive either, but I don't know much about their maintenance appetite to begin with. For the price we're talking about though, you could buy three more as spares and still have less invested as the next cheapest brand new car, which is of course the smart car, but who wants to drive that thing? http://20somethingfi...w-cars-of-2011/ Edit: looking at this list, it appears the yaris is the best value as far as new cars go. If you get a 2007, the mileage is actually better and you'll hit that devalue sweet spot.

Damn that sucks. The dealer isn't liable??

That is a "page" not a person, you probably have to "like" it to be able to write on the wall. Ahhh, close. 315/35 and yest they aren't cheap, but still worth it to me. With some 245/45 the Nitto 555s were $780. The rims were $825. No spacers required. I believe Justin has some 10.5 ccw's with new tires that he is selling for like $3500. 10.5 is technically the ideal for a 315 tire... Here's the front before I put a bead behind it (a must) 245 in the front and 315 in the rear fill the flares pretty darn evenly. I know because when my crappy suspension bottoms out it rubs them in the same exact spot, right on the edge of the tread. I don't have any clearance or steering issues either. It was only supposed to be temporary (I have similar flares that are the mold in type) but they're growing on me and I get lots of compliments so they might stick around after all.

I bought some a little while back. At first he only had them in glass, but before I used them he got some in cf so I traded up. The glass ones were okay, I just wasn't ready to repaint any time soon. He's probably easier to get a hold of on facebook where he updates pretty often with parts for sale and whatnot.

It's sad that these cars from the 80's could easily get over 50mpg but present day it's somehow a mystery. Even the pricey hybrids get 50 at best, Especially when they are completely capable of more but have some excuse as to why those aren't on the domestic market. http://www.autoblog.com/photos/top-ten-epa-rated-fuel-sippers-1984-to-present/#3068345 http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/topten.jsp

Swift, Cultrus, Sprint, Metro, Firefly, Barina, what are we leaving out?

Buy another z that gets higher mileage.

And here I was wondering how changing the caster would significantly affect the vertical gap ha!