getoffmyinternet

So it literally came with everything you need to put it together? Wowzers. I was looking at their price list and was like dang the GTM costs about the same, I should get one, then I realized the only difference it it's missing $17,000 worth of a corvette.

If you're going to upgrade the engine why not the drivetrain as well? R180 parts are probably scarce on the market because people just junk them. The short nose swap doesn't have lots of cutting but it isn't for the faint of heart either. Many have done it around here using different methods, and they're all pretty well documented. You can certainly buy the kit, but I imagine shipping will be painful. However, if you want the easier long nose swap, you'll probably have to ship in the CVs and whatnot so either way...

I seriously hate you.

Doesn't matter which ratio, I have an open long nose 3.7 and want to convert it to clsd. I'll take a whole diff of course but not interested in paying extra for the stuff I don't need.

Reminds me of the old spice guy.

I'm looking for the 280z stub axles, 27 spline iirc. Also the companion flanges that will adapt to z31 CVs. Don't want to spend a boatload on the billet MM ones. Didn't they used to sell welded versions btw?

UGH non-updates! Get on with it man, I will unsub right now so help me!

83 Supra? How dare you!

Uh oh we got a flip flopper here.

Haha, hey man if you really want stripes don't let anyone talk you out of it. I'm just saying people will laugh at you

It's okay, it happens to the best of us. I once made a chain steering wheel simply because I had some spare chain lying around. It looked a lot cooler in my head

It would be a helluva lot easier to just modify the knob itself, especially if you ever wanted to go back down the line. You could do a potted helicoil for a little more strength. put some epoxy in the hole, smear some grease on the threads of the helicoil install tool, thread it into the insert and shove into the hole. Once it cures you just unscrew the tool and you're good to go.

Silver stripes down the middle? Aaawwwe you'll ruin it! Racing stripes are for miatas with roll bars.

You don't want them to recognize the car! Where's the fun in everybody driving the same thing! Don't think about which will be slightly cheaper, just go with the car you like the most. Otherwise no matter how much money you save, after all that hard work you'll just be disappointed with yourself because it's not exactly what you wanted. Why skimp on your dreams when you're so committed to them? However, consider the fact that the SX will have to be smogged. UGH! On the other hand, if you indeed want a stop light car, why do an RB at all? Weight is your biggest enemy. Not just the weight of the car, but the rotational mass in the engine. Get an SR and tight gears, up the boost, and be like a bolt of lightning off the line. You're not looking to win a top speed challenge here. For that matter you could get a 510 which the SR would easily fit into and save yet another 200 lbs and laugh all the way to the finish line at those other guys towing a 600lb smog stamp. Of course you'd win by a less insane amount with the RB 260Z but you'd be doing it in style. So then, which gives you more joy, buying car wax or buying tires?

Oh yeah, that's the same company I saw pop up on ebay. Couldn't hurt to ask them to make you an all glass version at half the price. Mold making is a whole topic for another day. One which I'm not great at but getting there. I used to work in aerospace composites but I've learned that making the actual part is ten times easier than making the tool. That first article costs you countless hours and you probably don't get out of the hole until the 5th.

Oh yeah, 400 is a bit pricey for that, unless it's actually full carbon (but WHY??). Do you have the link for the one you found? I'm sure they would make you a glass version for much less. There used to be an ebay seller with pretty much every panel there is for the s30 but alas most of these guys went out of business. I see another one now but they don't even have the slots for the heater intake which is like half the work. If I had a mold for that boring piece I'd probably sell them for $200 or less. Wonder how much shipping would be to the US for that thing. Man I wish I could buy their shell. It keeps me up at nights I'd put that cowl thing on my list of molds to make but I'm super slow at that, too many other projects. I bought the hood mold, but I'm currently working on my own center console mold and others. Again, super slow progress, also I don't have much garage space :/

Do they normally stamp the logo on them anyway? I see all kinds of greddy knockoffs but they don't actually say greddy on them.

You talking about the entire hood? $400 sounds like a steal. I have a mold for one but I wouldn't make them to sell that cheap.

I have some spares somewhere, I'll have to look and let you know.

RBs don't seem like they're that limited on space. I got the mcgard ones from pepboys which certainly aren't low profile, or cheap though. At least they're guaranteed for life, and supposedly there are hundreds of different keys.

Indeed. Even with my zx rims I couldn't get a proper impact socket on the lugs. Never broken a socket though, are you guys breaking them putting the lugs on or taking them off?

Aluminum lugs?? Aluminum lugs. Wow ebay I'm not even mad that's just amazing.

Ah thanks for clarifying. We need to make a master list one of these days so we know which is which and direct replacements. If I remember correctly, some in that list like the z31 a/t would need some mixing and matching because the spline counts differ.

That's correct. I think I'm getting the confusion now too. I thought you were talking about the axles the wheel bolts onto, which you don't need if you're using your original half shafts of course. Yes you will need the ones that go into the diff if the one you get doesn't come with them. if you get an R200 from a 280z it will simplify the whole process because you won't have to buy a rear cover and it should already have the output shafts. If you get an R200 from say a z31 then it will be set up for CVs and have an incompatible cover. I went that route because I was planning on CVs in the first place and got the later stub axles because they are stronger. The R200 will undoubtedly be a lower speed than the R180. The difference is the final drive ratio, depending on what it came out of. The higher the number, the higher the reduction, ie. the slower the wheels turn at a given rpm. In other words your revs will be higher. The R180 was 3.364 (a/t is 3.545) and the R200 most often comes 3.700 but there are also 3.900 and higher.