Naptown Dave

Dom, I've been interested in the magnaflow x muffler since I first saw them. It looks like a pretty good way to kill two birds with one stone. How loud would you say it is? Under daily driving street acceleration can you talk without raising your voice dramatically?

Speaking of that I need to grab a gear and buy some mufflers. I don't want anything too loud. It looks like magnaflows have the highest flow of the quietest of the bunch. Any thoughts?

No worries my friend. Its good to get a little variation, may answer a question I hadn't even thought to ask.

That brings up something I was thinking about a while ago. I'm definately going to have my exhaust pipes exiting through my rear valance but I was kicking around the idea of running a 3 or 3.5" tip out half out of the quarter and half out of the rear valance. I would cut the pipe to match the body contour and trim it with some aluminum. Sound like a cool custom touch or like a tacky hairbrained idea? The one practical thought to this is it could help keep exhaust gasses from gathering at the rear of the car. What do you guys think?

I wish you guys would make up my mind

I'm sure I will. Thanks! Getting close to running!

Glad you approve, I was cussing you last night while putting them in last night!

I've been involved in the welding industry for more than 20 years (man that makes me feel old). I had been borrowing a semi portable Miller 300amp welder from work to weld on my LS project car. It is heavy and bulky and I had to unhook the dryer to get 220 for it and it was getting old. I bought Eastwoods 135 mig machine, $300 with free shipping. When I was unpacking and assembling it I thought it really felt like a toy and I was prepaired to be disapointed.I was pleasantly surprised by its performance. I have run 2.5 small spools of wire through it without a problem. I run .023 solid wire with 75/25 gas. Of course it's not a 220v 300amp machine that costs thousands but the band for the buck it's hard to beat. Most junior vocational schools and some community collages have evening welding classes, wouldn't be a bad idea to check into that especially if you don't have a bud that can weld.

Revised O2 sensor location

Wait I thought everything was bigger in Texas!

Not quite what I had In mind . Now I feel bad for some reason, deceased father and all. I do like a girl that can get down on some bbq though. I'm not all that familiar with line lock solenoids but with the industrial ones the coil can be replaced without removing the valve from the line, may be something to look at?

Has anyone ever pastidipped a dash? I've never used it, would it build high enough to disguise a foam crack repair?

Next time get a pic of the girl with purple hair

I knew you left hard but that's ridiculous!

Double post

This solution is so ground breaking it may have to be a sticky. Apparently the dashboard lights draw 1.46 amps even if they are turned all the way down so you can't see them in normal shop lighting. I reached over to make sure the key was in lock and noticed the headlight switch was on. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll try to remember to check the obvious first!

No relay click when I attach the battery cable, I do however get a pretty solid spark. I do hear a relay pull when i turn the ignition to run. I picked up a decent multimeter to replace the $7.99 special so i'll check my amp draw.

Looks like the fuse on my amp meter is cooked. I'll have to get another one tonight or tomorrow

Yeah I think a short would be way easier to track down. I have 2 maxi fuses one for the ecm , fan and fuel relay power and a relay power to the starter solenoid controlled by the Dat start signal wire. The other one feeds the factory fuses. I ran new wire to the fan and fuel pump. Everything under the dash is connected but the front and back harnesses are totally disconnected. If someone has a list of what is supposed to be hot with the key off that would be helpful.

I set my meter to mV and tested across the fuses, I believe that does the same thing without pulling the fuses. I'll try to check the amps across the open fuse poles too just to make sure.

Jhm I will double check the cig circut but I believe I've pulled all the makeshift wiring the PO had installed. I bought this car without an engine so I have no idea what condition the electrical was in when last ran. There was wiring ran from the engine compartment to the fuel pump, but that was removed and the fuel pump is controled/fed from the LS fuse panel. The alternator is the factory LS so it only has one control wire, controlled by the ecm. The LS/Datsun wiring intergration went well without any drama so I have to expect some gremlins to pop up! Thanks, I'll post what I discover.

Guys I have a '75 280Z with an LS swap that is draining the battery over night. The car is not complete and will start and run but has not been ran for any amount to time. I have 2 maxifuses feeding two fuse panels, one for the engine/ecm and one to the factory fuse panel. I have checked both maxifuses for draw and to one feeding the factory panel is drawing the power. I have current flow through the cig lighter fuse and the brake light fuse. The cig lighter is not in the receptical and the rear harness is not hooked up. Are there any common areas that have caused problems with battery draw? I have searched and see some references to the brake warning causing draw,would that be an issue because the wire to the brake pressure switch in the engine compartment is not hooked up? Why am I seeing draw through the cig lighter fuse?

Keith, do you mean that rather extensive exhaust article?

Dom, I should put them up high because hot air rises right? (just kidding) I didn't think about it before but I can snag a right angle drill from work and finally buy a step bit and put my second set downstream and parallel (vertical) with the trans tunnel. That would look pretty slick and keep the wiring tucked away and clean. Keith I think you are right, we're kind of splitting hairs when talking a couple inches, that only matters to the girls. I would think the exhaust pulses would mix pretty well in the collector. I've read everything from as close to the primaries as possible to 4x the primary diameter minimum. I will have them somewhere in that range and I'm sure it will work out fine. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0505em_exh/viewall.html here is a really good article on zero loss exhaust design that a member passed on to me. I can't remember who it was but he built a REALLY nice set of try y headers for his SBC Z.

Here's a pic Dom. I put them in as high as I could without hitting the transmission I will put the spare bungs in a couple inches back. I extended the drivers side sensor wires to run across the valve cover under the fuel injection harness and down the back of the block. The passenger side breaks off the harness right at the firewall and down to the connection, safe and sound